E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Emmett]

If your interested I could get that done first, then send to you, costs covered of course.
PM me if your interested.

Sorry, last time I never said thanks, but no thanks. Appreciate the offer.

I am curious to learn how much that workshop near you would charge for a custom rewind.

 

[Emmett]

I for got to ask in your last post, but you are oil cooling your motor. Any problems with leakage? ... Anyway, I see why you like oil cooling, it works.

I'll see how my next motor goes. It'll take me all of about 5 seconds to feel if I got the same hub winding or not. In any case I'm going to get some shallow grooves machined in the side covers to nearly double the surface area on them, for heat dissipation, to work with oil cooling.

Yes I like the oil cooling very much. I'd be screwed without it to be honest. Getting the heat from the stator to the outer casing works a treat, because I'm on off throttle all the time. For what I do, the stock sealed air hub was temp redlining as soon as 15 minutes into a ride, in summer. Not much better in winter. Now I'm getting the hub pretty hot, but it self cools quickly when I back off, and I am always riding until 900Wh or more for an intense ride that lasts for about 90 minutes.

I just couldn't see how venting would work for me. I ride through too much dirt and crap. Lower speeds means little airflow anyway. I also like to have my bike waterproofed (as mentioned), so I can lightly wash it, and it looks good and with ease of maintenance (on a clean bike) it also goes good.

With oil, there is no mess at all for me. I have 6203RS bearings with proper oil seals. I do get the tiniest bit of leaking between the axle and the inner bearing race, but it's nothing really. Just a rag wipe once in a while. I'll wipe in inner face of the rear brake disc before a ride, but there's rarely anything there. Breather hole weeping is bugger all. I use castor oil because it has no smell, biodegradable and is so easy to wipe away. When the right side cover is off, tap a thread for a fill bolt. Ensure the bolt end wont touch the windings. Mine is right on the edge of the cavity just outside the winding.

Sealing the side covers is easy. After cleaning the surfaces to be bonded, and thoroughly cleaning inside the motor, just use sikaflex or equivalent. A very thin layer on each cover perimeter will do (any more any you'll struggle to get the cover off again), then mount the cover while the sealant is fresh, and fix all screws. Once in place, add another thin bead of sika to the visible seam. The next day remove all screws, clean the threads a little and reinstall using blue loctite. Job done. Hit the trails and give it heaps!

 

[Emmett]

Rix,

My Tubliss rear system is leaking more than 1 PSI per ride. More like 5 to 8, depending on what pressure I start at. So hold off trusting my advice for how much to trim down the rim lock plate and stem inner rubber spacer. I'll fix mine ASAP and give you updated advice.

Good news is that today I ended a ride with just 10 PSI in the rear, and the bike handled unreal. I just went for it. Zero damage to the rim. The rear hooks up so good, I love it.

Today on the front I tried a Duro 24x2.35 Mountain MTB tire. $20 each plus a little post in the US. See http://r.ebay.com/4unolU I liked it! Riding on a mix of hard to medium dirt, it is good. Steers positive. Difficult to force it to slide. When the front does wash out in corners it sometimes goes a little too far, but no worse than the half-worn 24x3 Razorback was. I also tested on some soft sand, since there is a lot in some places I go, and it's OK if use basic sand riding techniques.

 

[Rix]

Rix,

My Tubliss rear system is leaking more than 1 PSI per ride. More like 5 to 8, depending on what pressure I start at. So hold off trusting my advice for how much to trim down the rim lock plate and stem inner rubber spacer. I'll fix mine ASAP and give you updated advice.

Good news is that today I ended a ride with just 10 PSI in the rear, and the bike handled unreal. I just went for it. Zero damage to the rim. The rear hooks up so good, I love it.

Today on the front I tried a Duro 24x2.35 Mountain MTB tire. $20 each plus a little post in the US. See http://r.ebay.com/4unolU I liked it! Riding on a mix of hard to medium dirt, it is good. Steers positive. Difficult to force it to slide. When the front does wash out in corners it sometimes goes a little too far, but no worse than the half-worn 24x3 Razorback was. I also tested on some soft sand, since there is a lot in some places I go, and it's OK if use basic sand riding techniques.

What do you think is going on with you leak? Is air just leaking out around the bead? On the front of my old XCF 450, I had a slow leak as well. Spray bottle with soap and water revealed the issue was with my bead. I solved it by inflating the bladder to 110 PSI vs the recommended 100PSI, and added 2oz of green slime. That may be all you need to do, if the air is escaping from somewhere around the bead.

 

[actionobject]

Has anyone considered using the Foam or Foam and Air tires that are used in cross desert motorcycle races?

I forget what they are called but this is a sure fire way to prevent flats

 

[Rix]

Has anyone considered using the Foam or Foam and Air tires that are used in cross desert motorcycle races?

I forget what they are called but this is a sure fire way to prevent flats

I think you are referring to either Bibb Mousse Tubes or Bibb Mousse balls. The tube is one piece and the balls are many smaller pieces. I don't like the Bibb Mousse tubes, they are way to hard to mount on MC rims. To do so requires 4 hands and 4 foot long tire levers. Okay, I am exaggerating a little but those things are very hard to mount.

 

[actionobject]

Yes Rix, thx, that is exactly what i was referring to.

Probably do not perform as well, but you would only need to mount it once.

Are flats an issue for you running your MC setup? Cheers!

 

[1abv]

The Bibb Mousse Tubes are indeed a pain in the ass to take on and off. I wound up cutting the tire off the rim cause they were such a pain. The other thing is they breakdown and don't last. Its not that they shred but they loose their "PSI" They are only good for a race or two. On top of that you can't change "PSI" its fixed. If all you want is to never get a flat them go for it but if you want a bike to handle I wouldn't bother. I've been riding / racing street dirt Motos for close to 30 years and have only gotten maybe 5 flats when using HD tubes and my psi range on dirt motos is (depending on conditions) Front: 7-11 Rear: 4-10 Psi. I weight 165lbs.

 

[stevebills]

what van do u use to take your bomber for a drive to the track as i want something thats looks cool and big anuf for the front wheel to stay on the bike

thx steve

 

[Emmett]

What do you think is going on with you leak? Is air just leaking out around the bead? On the front of my old XCF 450, I had a slow leak as well. Spray bottle with soap and water revealed the issue was with my bead. I solved it by inflating the bladder to 110 PSI vs the recommended 100PSI, and added 2oz of green slime. That may be all you need to do, if the air is escaping from somewhere around the bead.

I do not know yet.

Before using any slime on my Tubliss rear setup (today) I will:
1. Put the fully inflated wheel in a water bath (vertical with part of the tire submerged at one time of course). Then see where the bubbles come from. Done this before. Bubbles don't lie
2. Pull the tire off, fully inflate the inner liner with rim lock tensioned and see how it all sits.

Something I forgot to mention for anyone considering the oil cooling mod, is that the M4 bolts for the hub side covers should have 10mm of thread. Some of my original bolts were only 6mm. Not worth the risk of them coming loose. Tap clean the threads in the hub if the bolts fell like they bottom out too early. I replaced all of mine with phillips heads. Torx heads annoy me.

 

[Emmett]

Has anyone considered using the Foam or Foam and Air tires that are used in cross desert motorcycle races? I forget what they are called but this is a sure fire way to prevent flats

Mousse are OK. Flats obviously impossible. But I didn't even check if they come in a 19x2.75 size.

They are a bitch to fit usually, and the inside of the rim and spoke nipples heads get very dirty and usually badly corroded. But worst of all you cannot adjust tire pressure. With my trials tire I really wanted to be able to adjust tire pressure to get the right feel. With mousse systems they get softer as they get older, and eventually your rim gets banged up.

With Tubliss, if you don't puncture the inner liner (tire inside the tire), then the rim is protected by the liner and the main tire sidewalls, so it's effectively impossible to damage.

Plus, mousse tubes are usually expensive.

 

[actionobject]

Something I forgot to mention for anyone considering the oil cooling mod, is that the M4 bolts for the hub side covers should have 10mm of thread. Some of my original bolts were only 6mm. Not worth the risk of them coming loose. Tap clean the threads in the hub if the bolts fell like they bottom out too early. I replaced all of mine with phillips heads. Torx heads annoy me.

ThX for sharing your Fighter Mods Emmett! I am going to try the oil cooling once spring comes around and i have everything else dialed in.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I still think air is where it's at for quality cooling...even for muddy/dusty/wet/rocky conditions, which is what I ride regularly.
It's still a work in progress, but this is where my HS4080 is up to currently.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=56965&start=150#p1012948

Cheers

 

[Rix]

Yes Rix, thx, that is exactly what i was referring to.

Probably do not perform as well, but you would only need to mount it once.

Are flats an issue for you running your MC setup? Cheers!

Compared to MTB wheels/tires, no, not an issue at all.

 

[Emmett]

I still think air is where it's at for quality cooling...even for muddy/dusty/wet/rocky conditions, which is what I ride regularly.

CD, I just cannot picture a vented motor working, day after day. For me at least.

On just about any trail ride, I cross a water stream, or a mud patch. Every ride I blast through some sand and soft loam. At the end of every ride I have mud or dirt all over my hub. I know my stator only has about 0.5mm clearance to the magnets. So one grain of sand in the hub could do substantial damage, and a stray small stone could result in a push home disaster.

If it works for you, that's all that matters. Sealed hub oil cooling works very well for me. I hose it clean after a ride. Plus I can make it better with increased external metal surface area.

My new rear 19x2.75 tire has helped me avoid a lot of motor heat build up. Because I can charge much faster up any hill, with good grip and no pinch flats, smashing over whatever. So keeping the motor above its labouring speeds, and less time to the top obviously means less heat too. I'd guess my biggest hills are maybe 100m vertical climb in about 4 minutes. Some are about 50m height change, but a lot more slow corners. I'll record some tracks and work it out accurately. At the top of either type of hill my motor gets to about 75% on the Fighter's DC-1 display motor temp gauge. With a stock hub the heat alarm would go off every time.

 

[Emmett]

What do you think is going on with you leak? Is air just leaking out around the bead? On the front of my old XCF 450, I had a slow leak as well. Spray bottle with soap and water revealed the issue was with my bead. I solved it by inflating the bladder to 110 PSI vs the recommended 100PSI, and added 2oz of green slime. That may be all you need to do, if the air is escaping from somewhere around the bead.

I do not know yet.

Before using any slime on my Tubliss rear setup (today) I will:
1. Put the fully inflated wheel in a water bath (vertical with part of the tire submerged at one time of course). Then see where the bubbles come from. Done this before. Bubbles don't lie
2. Pull the tire off, fully inflate the inner liner with rim lock tensioned and see how it all sits.

OK Rix, I seem to have resolved the rear tire air leak...

I never had to do step 2. During step 1 I saw a stream of air bubbles coming some three pin holes inbetween the knobs on the shoulder of the VMR-021 tire. Not visible to the naked eye. Anyway, no point taking the tire off to check the Tubliss system. It is working perfectly. This looks like an as-new defect. No wear damage. I expected a trials tire to be air tight when used without a tube, but it indeed was leaking there.

To fix it I poured 110ml of slime into the tire through the main air fill stem. I rolled the tire to get the green stuff over those pin pricks. Pumped up the tire to 18.5PSI, and went for an hour ride over rough terrain. Came back and measured 18.0PSI. 6 hours later, still 18.0. Problem solved.

I learned a couple of extra things today about this rear tire setup:

The 19x2.75 VMR-021 tire is not much wider overall than the 1.6 MC rim, so some rocks can still scratch the rim. With a 1.6 rim, I think that the wider SR241 tire might be the go. I recall you said it's 0.5Kg heavier. Might be worth it.

With a 1.4 wide MC rim, the VMR-021 tire would be fine. But I think 1.4 will to too narrow for Tubliss to work. Which is a deal breaker for me.

With a Tubliss setup inside a 19x2.75 tire on a relatively narrow 1.6" MC rim, getting the tire off will not be easy without risking damage to the expensive red liner. Because the liner and tire beads sit so deep and tight in the rim well. So with tire spoons it's difficult to lever off the tire bead and avoid also grabbing and pinching the liner. Just something to be weary of. Perhaps the only disadvantage of Tubliss.

 

[Rix]

Emmett, sounds like you got it sorted, the SR241 is bit heavier, and the tread is just a bit softer than the VRM021 so you will see an improvement in traction. That said, the SR241 is quite a bit wider, you will need to get a freewheel extender to get the chain line to clear the side knobs. You may need to add some spacers to the front sprocket and push that out about 6mm as well so the chain line is not to far off line. When I originally ran the 2.75x18 SR241 on my Fighter, I ran into this problem. What I ended up doing was taking my hot knobby cutter and cut the side knobs off instead of using a freewheel extender and moving the front sprocket out. It worked, but what a PITA. Anyway just something to keep in mind if go the SR241 route. Another option would be the IRC TR1 2.75-19 trials tire, they are just slightly wider than the VRM and a still narrower than the SR241. Yah, I agree with your assessment about the tubliss system being a bit much for my 1.4 wide rims, I guess that's why I never dropped 100 bucks to get one for my ride.

 

[Jimboyr6]

First ride out in some time had 16 degrees today,havent used my bomber for at least 4-5 months
Forgot how u can just go where u want and in quick time, haaa the joys of owning a stealth
Couple pics

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

what van do u use to take your bomber for a drive to the track as i want something thats looks cool and big anuf for the front wheel to stay on the bike

thx steve

I have a Chev Express van. You could easily carry 4 bombers.

 

[1abv]

Some pics from todays ride…Some fun up and down hills!

Jimboyr6
got a couple of questions for ya...
what brakes are you running?
What is that mud guard on the rear swing arm?

Thanks!

 

[Jimboyr6]

1abv
Im running hope tech m4
The rear mudguard is called a marsh guard but the loads out there the same, comes as a flat bit of plastic,
U just cable tie it on
Iv got one on front aswell

 

[boars]

Anyone with a feorei light that came with the stealth?

I seem to have mixed up a bunch of my power adaptors and I have 3 of them with similar amp/volts and I'm not sure which is for which device
Can anyone tell me what the correct charger/adaptor is please? :lol:

 

[Allex]

They are like any other lights so 8.4volt on the charger would do

 

[stevebills]

i want to no if a stealth bomber will fit in the back of a Bmw x5 or do i need a van or are there any estae cars with big boots?
thx
steve

 

[Allex]

It will fit if you take down rear seats.