E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Emmett]

Hi all
I can't remember, or find the info to change my rear rim to a holmes hobbies black rim
Is there a thread on it ??

Do as Rix advised me, and buy a 19x1.6 rim and Vee Rubber VRM-021 19x2.75 tyre.
http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-MMP-19x1.6-Front-Ebike-and-Moped-Rim-MMP-19x1.60F-BLK1.html
http://www.veerubber.co.th/2013/?p=580

Note that the rolling radius of the VRM-021 19x2.75 tyre is about 6mm smaller than a 24x3.0 MTB tyre. Since motorbike sizes refer to rim size, like cars.

Buy some butted 11/12G spokes. 130mm long.
http://www.glowwormbicycles.com.au/store/e-bike-parts-and-accessories/wheelbuilding-items/custom-cut-sapim-spokes

Lace it to your hub.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64324

A 1.4 rim can also work fine, but only with a tube. If you want to use Tubliss, then use the 1.6 wide rim.

Go ride rough off road trails with about double the grip, double the control and 20x less chance of tyre punctures.

 

[Rix]

Hi all
I can't remember, or find the info to change my rear rim to a holmes hobbies black rim
Is there a thread on it ??

Do as Rix advised me, and buy a 19x1.6 rim and Vee Rubber VRM-021 19-2.75 tyre.
http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-MMP-19x1.6-Front-Ebike-and-Moped-Rim-MMP-19x1.60F-BLK1.html
http://www.veerubber.co.th/2013/?p=580

Note that the rolling radius of the VRM-021 19x1.75 tyre is about 6mm smaller than a 24x3.0 MTB tyre. Since motorbike sizes refer to rim size, like cars.

Buy some butted 11/12G spokes. 130mm long.
http://www.glowwormbicycles.com.au/store/e-bike-parts-and-accessories/wheelbuilding-items/custom-cut-sapim-spokes

Lace it to your hub.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64324

A 1.4 rim can also work fine, but only with a tube. If you want to use Tubliss, then use the 1.6 wide rim.

Go ride rough off road trails with about double the grip, double the control and 20x less chance of tyre punctures.

The truth Emmett! Its amazing how much more confidence in handling can be achieved with the motor rear tire and, especially, your suspension set up recommendations.

 

[00Tj]

Hey guys I have been thinking of buying a HPC bike with a bag and just wanted your opinion..........just kidding.

So I have been trying to organise upping the gearing on the Bomer through QMS, and initially we were chasing a replacement freewheel from Stealth to change from 16 to 14 teeth. Seemed like a plan until the freewheel available will only fit the Fighter so not so easy. QMS have searched the planet to locate a 28 tooth front sprocket, so with a bit of massage it should do the job. I am thinking this might be the first mod of its type, keep youse posted.

Hey, where in SA are you??

Also, I'm getting a 12 tooth freewheel this week of SamD. That would be the easiest (and cheapest!) way to get over 80kp/h pedalling.

 

[Jimboyr6]

Hi all
I can't remember, or find the info to change my rear rim to a holmes hobbies black rim
Is there a thread on it ??

Do as Rix advised me, and buy a 19x1.6 rim and Vee Rubber VRM-021 19-2.75 tyre.
http://holmeshobbies.com/Holmes-MMP-19x1.6-Front-Ebike-and-Moped-Rim-MMP-19x1.60F-BLK1.html
http://www.veerubber.co.th/2013/?p=580

Note that the rolling radius of the VRM-021 19x1.75 tyre is about 6mm smaller than a 24x3.0 MTB tyre. Since motorbike sizes refer to rim size, like cars.

Buy some butted 11/12G spokes. 130mm long.
http://www.glowwormbicycles.com.au/store/e-bike-parts-and-accessories/wheelbuilding-items/custom-cut-sapim-spokes

Lace it to your hub.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64324

A 1.4 rim can also work fine, but only with a tube. If you want to use Tubliss, then use the 1.6 wide rim.

Go ride rough off road trails with about double the grip, double the control and 20x less chance of tyre punctures.

Is that a typo 19x2.75 or 19x1.75 ??

 

[Rix]

Typo its 2.75-19

 

[CJonaBttlrckt]

Hi Folks,
Two queries for Emmett and 1abv please. I tried last night to submit, though I don't think it worked.

Emmett, how much or to what level are your running oil in the hub?

1abv, what riding weight are you if you don't mind me asking? I have my shock with the local motorbike suspsension shop for a revalve and new spring etc and wanted a guide as to the spring wieght that would suit me. I am around +95kg when riding with my camelback hydration pack. I know the 750lbs spring is too hard for me. You went with a custom 500lbs spring. I am worried 500lbs may be too soft for me!

Thanks
Clinton

 

[Hyena]

Jay, great to hear you've been drumming up support for a few Stealth riders to attend EVFest, but I can understand the organisers position and their decision to cease the higher power rides. The insurance premiums alone are just shy of 10k - so how much would you + other riders be willing to fork out for 10laps of a race track? I'm willing to bet it wouldn't be in the >$500 mark..

I was going to ask how much the premium is and if it was feasible for racers in that category to pay an entry fee and forgo any prize money (I didnt even know there was any last year!) just for the fun of the event, but I agree that's a bit steep.

The reality of a race series for Stealth is that the raw rider numbers just aren't there to justify overly enthusiastic pursuit of a racing series.

That's fair enough, though I'm sure many would be interested in 'competing' in an event with a format pretty much exactly as last years 1500 EVfest category. Nothing too serious, no major stakes, just a bit of fun. If we could do it for little more than the track hire fee you mentioned and low key enough to bypass the red tape requirements of insurance policies and the like it'd be great. But it sounds like that's not an easy option :|

IIRC you raced with a fractured vertebra - the downside impact of an adverse claim by someone hitting the tarmac too hard is enough to temper my enthusiasm for 'making it happen'.

Yeah... 3 fractured vertebrae, coccyx and possibly an ingrown toe nail :lol:
Mind you had there have been a fall it wouldn't have even have entered my mind to try and make any sort of claim. I showed up voluntarily, I fell off and got hurt, that's all on me. I took it pretty easy as a result of the above but I see the concern.

Something else to consider might be to come and play in a demo class at the next Transmoto12hr on the Saturday prior to Sunday race, which is also under discussion.

That looks like fun too! If there's more events like this coming up and you can give me a heads up that'd be great!


Now to get back on topic a little, I have a new stealth bomber in my possession for upgrades and I took it for a test yesterday before starting work. I noticed it pulled off the line smoothly as expected but in the mid range from say 30km/hr when accelerating at full throttle it had a slight wavering feel to it. Is this likely related to the DC1 ? I've not ridden a newer bike with the DC1 before this but it felt similar to when the CA intercepts the throttle signal to maintain programmed speed or power limits. Presumably the DC1 works in the same fashion?
Anyone else with a new DC1 equipt stealth noticed this ?

 

[ryan1685]

I have a 2014 Stealth bomber with the upgraded lcd screen. When I got it the battery meter read 85% or so. I ran it down to nothing, charged it and the battery still reads 0. I tried resetting the bms by removing the left cover and unplugging the rectangle plug. But after 45 mins of charging, the meter still reads 0. Has anyone else experienced this ? does anyone know how to address this issue ?

 

[biknut]

I have a 2014 Stealth bomber with the upgraded lcd screen. When I got it the battery meter read 85% or so. I ran it down to nothing, charged it and the battery still reads 0. I tried resetting the bms by removing the left cover and unplugging the rectangle plug. But after 45 mins of charging, the meter still reads 0. Has anyone else experienced this ? does anyone know how to address this issue ?

I think you have to undo both the big plug, and the little one.

when you put it back on the charger did both red lights come on and the fan start going?

 

[Rix]

I have a 2014 Stealth bomber with the upgraded lcd screen. When I got it the battery meter read 85% or so. I ran it down to nothing, charged it and the battery still reads 0. I tried resetting the bms by removing the left cover and unplugging the rectangle plug. But after 45 mins of charging, the meter still reads 0. Has anyone else experienced this ? does anyone know how to address this issue ?

Hit the menu button and go to the last screen, scroll down with the arrow button and keep scrolling until you see "Manual Reset" stop scrolling on that screen and push OK, it will ask to confirm, push Ok again and your Battery meter will reset to 100%.

Anyone else with a new DC1 equipt stealth noticed this ?

Jay, I haven't noticed this at all, even set at 5kw its just pulls hard and linear until about 38MPH and I top out around 41mph. FYI I am pulling 5kw off 14s.

 

[ryan1685]

I have a 2014 Stealth bomber with the upgraded lcd screen. When I got it the battery meter read 85% or so. I ran it down to nothing, charged it and the battery still reads 0. I tried resetting the bms by removing the left cover and unplugging the rectangle plug. But after 45 mins of charging, the meter still reads 0. Has anyone else experienced this ? does anyone know how to address this issue ?

Hit the menu button and go to the last screen, scroll down with the arrow button and keep scrolling until you see "Manual Reset" stop scrolling on that screen and push OK, it will ask to confirm, push Ok again and your Battery meter will reset to 100%.

Anyone else with a new DC1 equipt stealth noticed this ?

Jay, I haven't noticed this at all, even set at 5kw its just pulls hard and linear until about 38MPH and I top out around 41mph. FYI I am pulling 5kw off 14s.

ok thanks

 

[ryan1685]

I have a 2014 Stealth bomber with the upgraded lcd screen. When I got it the battery meter read 85% or so. I ran it down to nothing, charged it and the battery still reads 0. I tried resetting the bms by removing the left cover and unplugging the rectangle plug. But after 45 mins of charging, the meter still reads 0. Has anyone else experienced this ? does anyone know how to address this issue ?

I think you have to undo both the big plug, and the little one.

when you put it back on the charger did both red lights come on and the fan start going?

I did, thanks for the help I got it figured out. I just did the manual reset.

 

[Emmett]

I have a 2014 Stealth bomber with the upgraded lcd screen. When I got it the battery meter read 85% or so. I ran it down to nothing, charged it and the battery still reads 0. I tried resetting the bms by removing the left cover and unplugging the rectangle plug. But after 45 mins of charging, the meter still reads 0. Has anyone else experienced this ? does anyone know how to address this issue ?

I've been there. Joe@Stealth to my rescue ...

1. You must ensure the red jumper is plugged into the correct position on the rear side of the DC-1. It can fall off when riding rough ground. I gently crushed my red jumper to give it a tighter push fit. I think this jumper connects power to the DC-1's internal little battery.
2. During a run down cycle, it seems to help to turn the bike off, and then back on and ride again.

 

[Emmett]

Now to get back on topic a little, I have a new stealth bomber in my possession for upgrades and I took it for a test yesterday before starting work. I noticed it pulled off the line smoothly as expected but in the mid range from say 30km/hr when accelerating at full throttle it had a slight wavering feel to it. Is this likely related to the DC1 ?

Maybe ... If I use the Soft Start mode, then I will usually get a wavering feel to the power delivery. That's my gripe with Soft Start mode. The good things about Soft Start mode are:
1. For tight trails, Soft Start mode can/will increase my ride range before battery depletion, maybe as much as +10%.
2. When an e-bike novice or anyone with no motorbike (twist throttle) experience has a joy/test ride, the bike is a lot safer in Soft Start mode.

 

[Emmett]

Emmett, how much or to what level are your running oil in the hub?

100 to 120ml. See my earlier post about it.
More than 120 doesn't seem to help cooling. Just adds weight and drag.
Less than 100 and the stator gets notably hotter, sooner. Surprising the difference.
Castor oil = No smell and easy to clean.

 

[1abv]

Hi Folks,
Two queries for Emmett and 1abv please. I tried last night to submit, though I don't think it worked.

Emmett, how much or to what level are your running oil in the hub?

1abv, what riding weight are you if you don't mind me asking? I have my shock with the local motorbike suspsension shop for a revalve and new spring etc and wanted a guide as to the spring wieght that would suit me. I am around +95kg when riding with my camelback hydration pack. I know the 750lbs spring is too hard for me. You went with a custom 500lbs spring. I am worried 500lbs may be too soft for me!

Thanks
Clinton

Clinton,
Im at 82 ish kg with gear on. I would prob check with your shop but it sounds like a 500 may be too light but I'm no spring expert. Im also running the 1.4" rim w the vee rubber VRM 021. Personally I don't really see the need for a tubeless system unless you put them in the front and back but I like to have my tire pressure within a few pounds of each other. I find they let go at similar rates that way and the front does not push. If I'm flat stick on a sliding turn, as long as my body position is good the tires both let loose at the same time. Good Fun! Currently I'm running 15lbs front and rear with no problems. I ride 95% off road and mixed conditions from dry hard surface to sand to rocky. Good luck!

On another note I just rebuilt my 888cr forks and they rock! some fresh oil really makes the difference with these forks.

 

[pj1]

All, after a nasty crash last week (Crazy Bob tire separated from rear rim--see pic. I'm OK--no broken bones, just a bit banged up!), I'm going to join the club started by Rix and others and move to MC wheels on my Fighter. I think I'm going to go with a Holmes Hobbies 19x1.6 and use VeeRubber 021 2.75-19 tires. A few questions:

1 Correct spoke gauge, length, and nipple size for the Fighter's 3540 motor? Source?

2 Same question on spokes for the front wheel?

3 I need to replace the motor bearings while I'm at it. From posts I've read it seems like these are the right ones for the Fighter--can anyone confirm?

http://www.amazon.com/6203RS-Bearing-17x40x12-Sealed-Bearings/dp/B002BBJSPE

Thanks all for any guidance--anxious to get back on the road soon, as the Fighter is my primary transportation! --pj

 

[biknut]

I don't know where you guys are from. Tassels go on shoes, streamers go in handle bars. Get it straight.

 

[biknut]

All, after a nasty crash last week (Crazy Bob tire separated from rear rim--see pic. I'm OK--no broken bones, just a bit banged up!), I'm going to join the club started by Rix and others and move to MC wheels on my Fighter. I think I'm going to go with a Holmes Hobbies 19x1.6 and use VeeRubber 021 2.75-19 tires. A few questions:

1 Correct spoke gauge, length, and nipple size for the Fighter's 3540 motor? Source?

2 Same question on spokes for the front wheel?

3 I need to replace the motor bearings while I'm at it. From posts I've read it seems like these are the right ones for the Fighter--can anyone confirm?

http://www.amazon.com/6203RS-Bearing-17x40x12-Sealed-Bearings/dp/B002BBJSPE

Thanks all for any guidance--anxious to get back on the road soon, as the Fighter is my primary transportation! --pj

pj1, that looks nasty man. I'm glad you weren't hurt badly. In the mean time I'm having very good luck with Hook Worm tires.

 

[Rix]

All, after a nasty crash last week (Crazy Bob tire separated from rear rim--see pic. I'm OK--no broken bones, just a bit banged up!), I'm going to join the club started by Rix and others and move to MC wheels on my Fighter. I think I'm going to go with a Holmes Hobbies 19x1.6 and use VeeRubber 021 2.75-19 tires. A few questions:

1 Correct spoke gauge, length, and nipple size for the Fighter's 3540 motor? Source?

2 Same question on spokes for the front wheel?

3 I need to replace the motor bearings while I'm at it. From posts I've read it seems like these are the right ones for the Fighter--can anyone confirm?

http://www.amazon.com/6203RS-Bearing-17x40x12-Sealed-Bearings/dp/B002BBJSPE

Thanks all for any guidance--anxious to get back on the road soon, as the Fighter is my primary transportation! --pj

If you are going to go with a Holmes Hobbies rim, he can source the spokes you will need, unless you want big stuff like I am running, but I can tell you that 8g is way over kill for anything under 13kw. As far as the front goes, I just sent my rim and hub to Holmes and he laced it up. I am good at radial and 1x lacing but I never learned 2 or 3x and Holmes laced me up 3x on the front, some of the best work I have ever seen on this side of the pond. Off the top of my head, for your rear, if running the H40xx or even the H35xx, you are probably going to need 134mm long spokes 10g (3.2mm) along with 6.4mm x 18mm nipples threaded for 10g spokes. The spoke will have simple 90degree "L" bends with 4mm of spacking between the bend. This is for 1x lacing

 

[CJonaBttlrckt]

Thankyou for the hub oil and suspension setup details.
I will probably go the tubliss system as I seem to go through rear tubes. I run similar pressure to yourself 1abv. The tubes don't pinch flat, rather they just wear out from working so hard with the heavy wheel. I think the extra protection of the inner tyre of the tubliss system would serve me well and avoid me having to replace tubes so regularly. If it works anything like on my KTM I won't have to touch it for months hopefully. I do ride in a rocky rough area.
In stripping the bike down for a frame repair with Stealth I noted the swingarm bearings were near gone. They were just about to collapse, missing a few balls and the bearing cage was popping out and had pushed out the seal on the inside where of course it was not easily noticeable.
I will let you all know how well the oil cooling and tubliss works.
Thanks again,
Clinton

 

[Allex]

Great let us know about the oil man!
And Rix, if some one to test the oil thing, it is def you with your heavy gear on the back!

 

[Hyena]

Wow pj1, did you manage to roll the tyre off the rim and not even pop the tube ?! I've never seen that before!

If I use the Soft Start mode, then I will usually get a wavering feel to the power delivery

Wasn't in soft start but I suspect it's just the controller has a little higher power limit than the 5200w programmed max so the DC1 is 'feathering' the power just a little.

Rix, if some one to test the oil thing, it is def you with your heavy gear on the back!

Hey Rix, I think Alex just called you fat :lol:

 

[Allex]

Hey, hey!
Everybody are fat compared to my skinny ass!

 

[Cowardlyduck]

In stripping the bike down for a frame repair with Stealth I noted the swingarm bearings were near gone. They were just about to collapse, missing a few balls and the bearing cage was popping out and had pushed out the seal on the inside where of course it was not easily noticeable.

Hey Clinton, can you also let us know how it goes with your bearings...I asked Stealth if they would ever need replacing on my Fighter and was told they should not wear out or need replacing.
As you point out...it's really hard to see the condition of these bearings, so I'm a little concerned they won't last much longer on my 10000Km+ Fighter.

Cheers