E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

I need the measurement of the rear Duro Razorback 24X3.0 stock Bomber tyre because I have the Maxxis Holy Roller that are smaller.
Anybody with Duro Razorback 24X3.0 could please make the same measurement I made in the following pic?

20150425_232707.jpg
 
bigbore said:
I need the measurement of the rear Duro Razorback 24X3.0 stock Bomber tyre because I have the Maxxis Holy Roller that are smaller.
Anybody with Duro Razorback 24X3.0 could please make the same measurement I made in the following pic?

img]

Ciao Simone, ho fatto misure de rota its just over 3 inches wide. On a another note, this is my newest tire I will be trying out, on my next rim and wheel build. Its a Vee rubber VRM021 3.00-18 tire. Uninflated and un mounted, its 25" even. Its slightly larger than the the 2.75-19 VRM021 I have mounted on 19x1.4 prowheel racing rim. The tire weighs a little over 6 pounds. Looks promising. The build is a ways off, so I wont know much for a bit.
 

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stevebills said:
I have a 6 week old stealth bomber B52 and banged it up a kerb at 25 mph and it lost all the air in the back wheel instantly so i pushed it home so as not to damage the rim and tried to pump her up
but nothing happened so do these have a tube and what size do i need?
why cant a stealth bomber climb a 3 inch kerb and is it to heavy to bunny hop them?
how do you get over high curbs?

thx steve

They have a 3 inch tube. And i bunny hop pretty easily?
 
will this tube be okay for my bomber
Schwalbe MTB 24" x 3 inch Downhill Inner Tube Car/Schrader Valve?
whats the best tubes to use?
whats the best way to change a tube on a back wheel and do i need to remove the wheel first
and can someone explain the procedure in full pls

thx
steve
 
Yep the tube will do,michelin do a nice thick one which is better
Undo the wires where thay join carefully,if thay are still same as earlyer models pull metal ring back and then pull apart
The other wires just pull apart
cut cable ties that hold wires onto swing arm,
Undo axle bolts, push wheel forward take chain off
The swing arm may open up abit
Keep eye on the white plastic ring where wires come out of motor
When u do axle nuts back up
Caliper side first then other side then the axle lock push it anti-clockwise then tighten it
Stops it coming undone from regen
I think thats the method u may have to check through the forum to make sure
Good luck
 
stevebills said:
will this tube be okay for my bomber
Schwalbe MTB 24" x 3 inch Downhill Inner Tube Car/Schrader Valve?
whats the best tubes to use?
whats the best way to change a tube on a back wheel and do i need to remove the wheel first
and can someone explain the procedure in full pls

thx
steve


I would get this one.

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=17341
 
But thats not a 3" tube TV??

Also, has anyone tried swapping out the X5403 for a TC100? Can you literally just swap them and the TC will work with the controller already on the bomber?? I have been thinking about getting one?
 
00Tj said:
But thats not a 3" tube TV??

Also, has anyone tried swapping out the X5403 for a TC100? Can you literally just swap them and the TC will work with the controller already on the bomber?? I have been thinking about getting one?

That tube is so think it won't care.
 
00Tj said:
But thats not a 3" tube TV??

Also, has anyone tried swapping out the X5403 for a TC100? Can you literally just swap them and the TC will work with the controller already on the bomber?? I have been thinking about getting one?

These are bigger. I've been using these in my Thick Bricks with good results, but they feel like they only weigh about 3/4 as much as the Kenda's.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271479398961?lpid=82&chn=ps
 
00Tj said:
But thats not a 3" tube TV??

Also, has anyone tried swapping out the X5403 for a TC100? Can you literally just swap them and the TC will work with the controller already on the bomber?? I have been thinking about getting one?

Yup it will work with the controller and that motor, The big question is why you would want a TC :roll:

Some motors are a bit lighter, much cheaper, more efficient and have better torque :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THdZZbQUTLY
 
Allex said:
00Tj said:
But thats not a 3" tube TV??

Also, has anyone tried swapping out the X5403 for a TC100? Can you literally just swap them and the TC will work with the controller already on the bomber?? I have been thinking about getting one?

Yup it will work with the controller and that motor, The big question is why you would want a TC :roll:

Some motors are a bit lighter, much cheaper, more efficient and have better torque :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THdZZbQUTLY

Allex, you have been holding out, was that a MXUS 3t motor?
 
Yeah, I though I showed it before?
Here is another, doing about 60mph with the 4turn version. It has better torque than the 5403 but top speed is about 12mph less. You would need to go with 3T to have similar top speed as the 5403 has. All in all, an incredible fun motor for offroad, heaps better than 5403, did I mention that it is 5kg(11punds) lighter?
[youtube]XybF15eNKtI[/youtube]
 
Hi Folks,
Rick, that 18" tyre and rim combo does look interesting.A larger tyre should be better.
Given I am up for a new 19"x1.6 rim to go Tubliss I may go down this path in the coming weeks instead of replacing the 19"x1.4.
Do you know the spoke length for the 18" rim onto my Bomber? I think 17" is 102mm and 19" is 128mm. Is the 18" spoke length in between these at about 114mm?

CD, regarding the swingarm bearing life. Set up is different on the Fight and maybe more robust. There is not much to the bearing on the Bomber and I think you would have to be carefull not to overtighten the bearing cap as this could distort the clamp and easily damage the bearing. I did 3000 rough off ks on these original swingarm bearings.

Thanks,
Clinton
 
CJonaBttlrckt said:
In stripping the bike down for a frame repair with Stealth I noted the swingarm bearings were near gone. They were just about to collapse, missing a few balls and the bearing cage was popping out and had pushed out the seal on the inside where of course it was not easily noticeable.
I will let you all know how well the oil cooling and tubliss works.
Thanks again,
Clinton

My bike suffered a swing arm bearing failure to . The one on the pedal power side lost it's balls. I made the repair at about 3000 miles, but think it may have been bad for who knows how long. Maybe a 1000 miles.

I sourced new ones locally for $16 each. Now I just keep a close eye on the swing arm play. If there isn't any I know they're still good.
 
CJonaBttlrckt said:
CD, regarding the swingarm bearing life. Set up is different on the Fight and maybe more robust. There is not much to the bearing on the Bomber and I think you would have to be carefull not to overtighten the bearing cap as this could distort the clamp and easily damage the bearing. I did 3000 rough off ks on these original swingarm bearings.
Thanks.
I've put over 10000km on my Fighter now...nothing lasts forever.
Has anyone out there replaced, or at least regreased the swingarm bearings on a Fighter? I wonder if they are even serviceable, looking at them it doesn't look like it would be easy to get them out.

Cheers
 
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Hi Folks,
Rick, that 18" tyre and rim combo does look interesting.A larger tyre should be better.
Given I am up for a new 19"x1.6 rim to go Tubliss I may go down this path in the coming weeks instead of replacing the 19"x1.4.
Do you know the spoke length for the 18" rim onto my Bomber? I think 17" is 102mm and 19" is 128mm. Is the 18" spoke length in between these at about 114mm?

CD, regarding the swingarm bearing life. Set up is different on the Fight and maybe more robust. There is not much to the bearing on the Bomber and I think you would have to be carefull not to overtighten the bearing cap as this could distort the clamp and easily damage the bearing. I did 3000 rough off ks on these original swingarm bearings.

Thanks,
Clinton

You nailed it Clinton, I used 115mm long spokes when I laced by 18x1.85 to my 5405 on the Bomber a while back. The spokes almost poked through the nipples, but not quite.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
CJonaBttlrckt said:
CD, regarding the swingarm bearing life. Set up is different on the Fight and maybe more robust. There is not much to the bearing on the Bomber and I think you would have to be carefull not to overtighten the bearing cap as this could distort the clamp and easily damage the bearing. I did 3000 rough off ks on these original swingarm bearings.
Thanks.
I've put over 10000km on my Fighter now...nothing lasts forever.
Has anyone out there replaced, or at least regreased the swingarm bearings on a Fighter? I wonder if they are even serviceable, looking at them it doesn't look like it would be easy to get them out.

Cheers

If you have the same bearings as I do, remove the swingarm and carefully remove the rubber dirt seals, if the bearings are good, you could just "massage" grease into them and not remove the whole bearing and race. Of course if the bearings are smoked, new will need to go in. BTW have you gotten your mini E yet?
 
Rix said:
If you have the same bearings as I do, remove the swingarm and carefully remove the rubber dirt seals, if the bearings are good, you could just "massage" grease into them and not remove the whole bearing and race. Of course if the bearings are smoked, new will need to go in. BTW have you gotten your mini E yet?
Thanks Rix. :D I'll try and have a close look next time I take my swingarm off and give regreasing them a go. :)

The Mini-E is coming along nicely...even though I haven't installed it yet. :)
P1070553.jpg

With this mod, it should be able to handle 5KW+. :twisted:

I'm still working on my motor mods, and I need to fix up the metal around my drop out's which is a little worn down after years of the motor axle compressing it so tightly without washers to cushion it. I will probably use some epoxy, and am going to try some nylon washers to help seat things snugly without more wear taking place.

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Rix said:
If you have the same bearings as I do, remove the swingarm and carefully remove the rubber dirt seals, if the bearings are good, you could just "massage" grease into them and not remove the whole bearing and race. Of course if the bearings are smoked, new will need to go in. BTW have you gotten your mini E yet?
Thanks Rix. :D I'll try and have a close look next time I take my swingarm off and give regreasing them a go. :)

The Mini-E is coming along nicely...even though I haven't installed it yet. :)
P1070553.jpg

With this mod, it should be able to handle 5KW+. :twisted:

I'm still working on my motor mods, and I need to fix up the metal around my drop out's which is a little worn down after years of the motor axle compressing it so tightly without washers to cushion it. I will probably use some epoxy, and am going to try some nylon washers to help seat things snugly without more wear taking place.

Cheers

I am really curious what you get for top speed and acceleration on 12s with the mine and OVS set at 7
 
Allex said:
Yup it will work with the controller and that motor, The big question is why you would want a TC :roll:

Some motors are a bit lighter, much cheaper, more efficient and have better torque :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THdZZbQUTLY


I was actually discussing this with Sam D today. But we couldn't work out if I would be able to just change over using the controller that comes on the bomber without any mods?
i just want a motor I can throw on that will work out of the box.

Also, you're getting 60mph with the mxus but it is 12mph slower than the X5? Yet I can only get about 48-50mph out of the stock bomber? Or are you talking about the theoretical maximum of the X5 with a different controller/battery etc?
I really just want the fastest (acceleration/top speed) I can get without having to change anything but the motor.. Any suggestions?
 
Yeah talked to him, But no mods are needed. Just solder on some bullets on the new motor that goes to the phase wires and solder on the hall connector - the round one with 5pins. After this you just need a spacer on the inside of the dwingarm, this is because the dropout of swingarm is 150mm(?) and mxus axle is 135mm
Samd to can fix this to you no prob.
 
Allex
Are u saying i can put one of these mxus motors on and its better all round top speed,and off the line
But does it use more battery ?
 
Uh, forgot about speed 00Tj

I am getting 60mph with mxus and 75mph with 5403, but forget about that. I did run a different controller.
With the stock controller you have about:
50mph with 5403(3t)
43mph with mxsus 4t
50mph with mxus 3t

You cannot have both fast acceleration and high top speed. when you runt the stock battery/controller.
So you have to choose here, awsome torque at start and slower speed on the top, or vice versa.

Jimroy, mxus motor is more efficient,
Here is a graph showing a rid WOT, goin up a 10% hill.
5403 has 78% efficiency and will overheat in 20 minutes.
Mxus has 86% efficiency at same setup and will never overheat at this grade.
 

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