E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Hi again,
Forgot to mention I had the rear shock rebuilt by a local suspension specialist, Teknic Morosport and it is so much better.
The standard valving was pretty average apparently. I will probably replace the spring with a softer custom version as the standard is still a tad hard at no spring preload, though I intend to ride it a bit and fiddle with the clickers first.
Probably 600-650lbs for my weight of 95kg plus a camelback backpack.
Cheers
 
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Hi again,
Forgot to mention I had the rear shock rebuilt by a local suspension specialist, Teknic Morosport and it is so much better.
The standard valving was pretty average apparently. I will probably replace the spring with a softer custom version as the standard is still a tad hard at no spring preload, though I intend to ride it a bit and fiddle with the clickers first.
Probably 600-650lbs for my weight of 95kg plus a camelback backpack.
Cheers

Very nice Cjona, you being in Sydney, talk with Emmett, that guy has forgotten more about suspension valving then I will ever know.
 
Jimboyr6 said:
Tv i was waiting for when u was going to popped it up into a nice mono wheely

I was never that good at wheelies. My specialty is not getting killed, which comes in a lot more handy.



And they're not tassels, they're streamers, get it right. :) Tassels go on shoes.
 
I'm still amazed at how dependable my Bomber is. Usually all my bikes end up dependable, but most of the time it's after I make them that way. Other than installing good tires, I haven't done anything that really affects the dependability of this bike other than maintenance. I ride miles, and miles from home and never give a thought to breaking down. Considering the power this bike can throw down, it's really saying a lot about the engineers that designed the bike.
 
CJonaBttlrckt said:
Hi Folks,
No. 289 is back in black
View attachment 2
I will be adding the oil to hub this afternoon and will advise how it works.
Note the grooves inside the hub side covers and the additonal seal. The additonal seals are probably not necessary, though if you have a lathe, why not!
View attachment 1

Whats your rear rim set up ? Tyre size and rim size ? And how do u rate the ride difference weight wise
 
17580519384_f48eedf476_z.jpg


18199508992_c05e22c7b3_z.jpg


A little late night bombing…..
 
Hi Jimboy,
19" x 1.4" rim holding 2.75" tyre and absolutely necessary, worth the xtra weight though I am not sure how much xtra weight.
I destroyed my first mtb rim in the first week of ownership, foolishly replaced it with another and did the same in no time. This is not to mention the inumerable flat tyres.
I will go to an 18" x 1.6 rim after I wear out this and the spare tye I have for it. I will be going for a 18" x 3" or 3.25" VRM021 with a Tubliss set up.
I am currently running heavy duty tubes, however they wear out after a couple of months of rubbing around inside the tyre despite copious amounts of talc.
I have also found that I need to run a rim lock as the tyre and tube slowly rotate on the rim, possibly as I tend to run lower air pressures which I suspect also contributes to the tube rubbing around and wearing out problem.
The Tubliss will address this problem and give me extra tyre side wall and rim protection due to the protruding small tyre/tube arrangement of the tubliss.

On another point, I also replaced the key switch and regen switches with IP rated versions and sealed everything else up to allow wet weather riding. I had already replaced the hall sensor plug with the recommended Binder version.

Finally the oil went into the hub last night, so this afternoon will be the first test of how hot it now does not get!

Cheers,
Clinton
 
TV have you tried to ride with your bike during moderate rain for about 50 miles? I have a feeling that in this case stuff can get nasty, areas like controller, connectors and the (battery box)frame are not protected against the rain.
 
Allex said:
TV have you tried to ride with your bike during moderate rain for about 50 miles? I have a feeling that in this case stuff can get nasty, areas like controller, connectors and the (battery box)frame are not protected against the rain.

No I've never ridden it in the rain. I almost get caught about 15 miles from home yesterday. When I left my house in was partly sunny. I got about 15 miles to the North, and looked back in my direction, and it looked almost black. I turned around and blasted. Luck was on my side this time.

I know how touchy it is about water. Usually we don't have much rain, this year is an exception. Don't wash your Stealth with a hose. My front fender helps a little.
 
CJonaBttlrckt said:
On another point, I also replaced the key switch and regen switches with IP rated versions and sealed everything else up to allow wet weather riding. I had already replaced the hall sensor plug with the recommended Binder version.

What key switch did you use? I have been looking for an IP67 or greater with no luck.
 
do not get caught in the rain, unless you want to run the risk of having to replace both your controller and battery. Weatherproofing sounds like a great idea.
 
I´m not surprised it is reliable TV if you only take it out when the sun shines and only ride on tar seal roads... It is not a bike to depend on in original configuration if you use it as an everyday commuter in all sorts of weather and off road machine! And that is what they make it out to be in the commercials. I´m glad you are happy with it and is treating you well tho! I´ve had more trouble than I care for, and I´m not too impressed with the quality, so mine is to be restored to original and going to be sold as soon as I get a new flux frame.
 
Where did the post with the Chinese guy that had some 24" X 3" tires for the stealth bikes go ?
 
It go moved...then deleted entirely when they failed to adhere to the ES rules about posting details.

I was PMing them and they seemed keen to sell to me...the guy was in the process of sorting out a Paypal account and cheaper shipping. Then it all went silent. :roll: :?:

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
It go moved...then deleted entirely when they failed to adhere to the ES rules about posting details.

I was PMing them and they seemed keen to sell to me...the guy was in the process of sorting out a Paypal account and cheaper shipping. Then it all went silent. :roll: :?:

Cheers

Ahhhh that is what I was afraid of. I was hoping this would be a serious vendor and supply of tires.
 
From experience.. my stock keyswitch takes in more water than a sinking ship. I could not even turn the bike off, there was water drops hanging from the connectors on the inside of the keyswitch.
The problem with water leaks on the bikes is that when you gain speed in the rain you get pressure changes from the outside to the inside of the concealed boxes or frames, this will help pull in water to the bike frame if there is a thiny whole or leak. Same with controllers, and If you get the boxes totaly sealed up and you heat and cool them over and over again you get condens on the inside, and this turns to dirty water over time.
I changed to a atv switch with a cap key.
 
As far as dependability when riding in the rain. I'm sure it true, it's not good, but I think most other factory eBikes also suffer from the same problem to some degree.
 
stevebills said:
i bought my bomber B52 about 2 months ago and was looking at the qms kickstand and is this a must purchase and any other bits worth there salt i need to get?
will the sprocket & chain mod make it faster?

thx
steve

I've got the qms kick stand, it's really well made, much nicer than the cheaper option. Not sure it's a must have though and seems to need to have the bike much more upright than I thought it would. Definitely happy with it though, be nice if it was a bit cheaper but that's true of everything haha.

I really want their mud guards but as far as I'm aware they're still currently unavailable :(

In the interim I'm running a enduroguard:
http://dirtmountainbike.com/products/fresh-produce/new-enduroguard-rrp-mudguard-front-rear-use.html

Got nothing on the rear though... further back in the thread someone recommends using lizard skins chain guards for the rear shock... doesn't stop you getting sprayed though. Still good to keep that clean... So if I don't find a decent rear guard that I like soon I'll probably go down that path too
 
stritzky said:
Cowardlyduck said:
It go moved...then deleted entirely when they failed to adhere to the ES rules about posting details.

I was PMing them and they seemed keen to sell to me...the guy was in the process of sorting out a Paypal account and cheaper shipping. Then it all went silent. :roll: :?:

Cheers

Ahhhh that is what I was afraid of. I was hoping this would be a serious vendor and supply of tires.

These look like pretty good semi slicks from Germany...haven't heard of or seen them before

Reifen Street Hog 24 x 3.0 €28.95
http://www.classic-cycle.de/en/Tires-Tubes-and-Supplies/Tires/24-inch/Tire-Street-Hog-24-x-3-0-black.html

985_p1.jpg
 
Villain said:
CJonaBttlrckt said:
On another point, I also replaced the key switch and regen switches with IP rated versions and sealed everything else up to allow wet weather riding. I had already replaced the hall sensor plug with the recommended Binder version.

What key switch did you use? I have been looking for an IP67 or greater with no luck.

Hi Villain,
It was one of these from RS online. As best I can tell they are both the same. It had a 16mm barrel, so I had to turn up a an adaptor/spacer to fit it to the frame that has a 19mm hole. There would likely be a 19mm version. I took this as it was all they had in stock at the time.
Cheers,
Clinton

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/key-switches/7118335/

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/key-switches/7118344/
 
I made the same mistake previously with the 16mm key switch. RS online had the one I ordered listed as 19mm but for the wrong dimension.
Anyway, I got this one and it's been working fine for over a year now for me.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Quality-Key-Switch-SPDT-2-Positions-2-Circuits-D-19mm-/170775157861?
$_12.JPG

It's not water proof, but it does have 2 separate circuits so you can rig it up with lights or a DC-DC etc on the second circuit.


I stripped the threads on my seat-post clamp. Anyone know what size it is for the Fighter?

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
I stripped the threads on my seat-post clamp. Anyone know what size it is for the Fighter?

Cheers

CD if it's the same as a Bomber, my seat post is 31.6mm
 
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