E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Rix
100 TW
1abv said:
With exception of my TC3065 which i plan to oil cool or Ferro Fluid cool, every non geared hub motor I have vented has performed flawlessly, water condensation has a way to escape so water is not a problem, and I always coat my motors with T-9 Boeshield. In really dusty conditions, I sometimes see a little dust on the stator lams, but my air-compressor makes short work of blowing off the dust. I honestly think that venting these motors will make them last longer than not venting, especially in humid wet environments. Let me pose a question for anyone here. Has anyone ever seen a vented direct drive motor rust to the point it wouldn't turn? I would like to hear and a pic speaks volumes. The only time I had a rust problem was with a motor I didn't vent right away, and that's the 5404 motor on my Bomber. When I did vent the case, I took it a part and noticed rust. I cleaned the rust, a little T-9, and it hasn't given me or Pops any problems since.
I do:1abv said:
[youtube]iMIEGfayg30[/youtube]
This was with my motor vented and cooling fans RUNNING during the crossing as I wanted to really test them:
Not an issue at all since and I've opened this motor several times since then.
As Rix said, the main concern is that you allow the water a way to get out. The best way is through evaporation which is accelerated by the heat of the motor.
As for mud/dirt, take a look at the very beginning and end of the video above...that's only the half of it...that mud was at least 5 inches deep in sections. If any got inside the motor, the water content would have just evaporated leaving the dry dirt to just flake off. As Rix said, an air compressor makes short work of dirt/dust, or you can just not worry about it as it really makes no difference apart from a little worse cooling.
Cheers
Rix
100 TW
1abv said:
Looks like you've done a little drilling of side plates on that unit... No worries about dust or water?[
With exception of my TC3065 which i plan to oil cool or Ferro Fluid cool, every non geared hub motor I have vented has performed flawlessly, water condensation has a way to escape so water is not a problem, and I always coat my motors with T-9 Boeshield. In really dusty conditions, I sometimes see a little dust on the stator lams, but my air-compressor makes short work of blowing off the dust. I honestly think that venting these motors will make them last longer than not venting, especially in humid wet environments. Let me pose a question for anyone here. Has anyone ever seen a vented direct drive motor rust to the point it wouldn't turn? I would like to hear and a pic speaks volumes. The only time I had a rust problem was with a motor I didn't vent right away, and that's the 5404 motor on my Bomber. When I did vent the case, I took it a part and noticed rust. I cleaned the rust, a little T-9, and it hasn't given me or Pops any problems since.[/
Do you ever do creek crossing or muddy stuff?[/quote]
Yes, infact, I Hyena has a video of a water crossing on my Bomber where water is axle deep.
Rix
100 TW
I've been dragging my feet waiting on this wrench. Since I don't have experience building wheels I was afraid I would over, or under tighten my spokes. This torque wrench give me more confidence. I also bought this other wrench to help me. Now I try to move on to the final process.
I couldn't find a cheaper one, this torque wrench was $120
I couldn't find a cheaper one, this torque wrench was $120
Rix
100 TW
Cowardlyduck said:I do:1abv said:
[]
This was with my motor vented and cooling fans RUNNING during the crossing as I wanted to really test them:
[]
Not an issue at all since and I've opened this motor several times since then.
As Rix said, the main concern is that you allow the water a way to get out. The best way is through evaporation which is accelerated by the heat of the motor.
As for mud/dirt, take a look at the very beginning and end of the video above...that's only the half of it...that mud was at least 5 inches deep in sections. If any got inside the motor, the water content would have just evaporated leaving the dry dirt to just flake off. As Rix said, an air compressor makes short work of dirt/dust, or you can just not worry about it as it really makes no difference apart from a little worse cooling.
Cheers
Every time I see your vid, I realize that road is washed out. It takes fast flowing water, and lots of it to do that. Good stuff amigo.
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:I've been dragging my feet waiting on this wrench. Since I don't have experience building wheels I was afraid I would over, or under tighten my spokes. This torque wrench give me more confidence. I also bought this other wrench to help me. Now I try to move on to the final process.
I couldn't find a cheaper one, this torque wrench was $120
Wow, you got some bucks invested into tools. I bought a KTM 65 spoke wrench. Perfect, one end is 5mm and the other is 5.9mm, dumb luck that the fit all my ebike spokes, and my CRF250L spokes perfectly.
Been a while since I posted so a quick update and quick question...
My Bomber #366 is running beautifully. I have ridden it more in the last 4 months since my last surgery and now the snow and ice have all but gone here in Colorado. I've really started to learn what trail riding is all about. That's right I've no experience of trail riding on anything and could hardly bicycle in a straight line before buying the Bomber.
Plagued by both spinal injuries and inexperience this was the perfect compliment to my adventure riding on my KTM and BMW.
It's great core exercise too! Mind you I've fallen off it more times than all my 30 plus years of motorcycling falls out together. But I've never hurt myself, only big arse black and blue bruises especially inside left thigh as that's my default leg to go down first.
My question was about putting some padding on the boxy edge of the top side of the battery compartment, has anyone done it and has it helped?
I try to switch riding stance a lot but my default for technical terrain is always my strongest right foot forward which leaves my left foot to jump off the bike. Hopefully that makes sense?
Also what the best way to get longevity out of the batteries. I don't have any problems but don't want to either. I usually ride 30 mins to an hour max, have yet to max out the battery, always immediately recharge upon return and always top off charge before I go out. I charge every 2 weeks if I have ridden it in that time period.
Am I doing things right/wrong? I would like to take time to really understand the technical side of the workings of the bike and all the readings but I'm struggling with retaining the info so I have all but given up other than looking at the battery power. It's rarely been u see ⅓ according to the small indicator but a friends said I should run it down before recharging occasionally or the battery might get a smaller memory??? I have no idea so before spending hours googling it I thought might ask the knowledgeable crowd on this thread.
Btw has anyone started a Facebook group for Stealth yet? Closed or secret I'd be interested in joining one.
You can find me on #bomber366 I love my bomber, still think it's the best toy ever! Happy silent bombing!
My Bomber #366 is running beautifully. I have ridden it more in the last 4 months since my last surgery and now the snow and ice have all but gone here in Colorado. I've really started to learn what trail riding is all about. That's right I've no experience of trail riding on anything and could hardly bicycle in a straight line before buying the Bomber.
Plagued by both spinal injuries and inexperience this was the perfect compliment to my adventure riding on my KTM and BMW.
It's great core exercise too! Mind you I've fallen off it more times than all my 30 plus years of motorcycling falls out together. But I've never hurt myself, only big arse black and blue bruises especially inside left thigh as that's my default leg to go down first.
My question was about putting some padding on the boxy edge of the top side of the battery compartment, has anyone done it and has it helped?
I try to switch riding stance a lot but my default for technical terrain is always my strongest right foot forward which leaves my left foot to jump off the bike. Hopefully that makes sense?
Also what the best way to get longevity out of the batteries. I don't have any problems but don't want to either. I usually ride 30 mins to an hour max, have yet to max out the battery, always immediately recharge upon return and always top off charge before I go out. I charge every 2 weeks if I have ridden it in that time period.
Am I doing things right/wrong? I would like to take time to really understand the technical side of the workings of the bike and all the readings but I'm struggling with retaining the info so I have all but given up other than looking at the battery power. It's rarely been u see ⅓ according to the small indicator but a friends said I should run it down before recharging occasionally or the battery might get a smaller memory??? I have no idea so before spending hours googling it I thought might ask the knowledgeable crowd on this thread.
Btw has anyone started a Facebook group for Stealth yet? Closed or secret I'd be interested in joining one.
You can find me on #bomber366 I love my bomber, still think it's the best toy ever! Happy silent bombing!
These cheapy harbor freight dial gauges turn you into a wheel super genius if, you've got the time, and patience . I'd a still prefer to pay someone to do it for the front wheel for me.
I'm starting to think the torque wrench may be over kill. None of the spokes are even 20 in lb yet , but they're starting to sound like banjo strings. I know I've ridden with spokes looser then these of some bikes.
I'm starting to think the torque wrench may be over kill. None of the spokes are even 20 in lb yet , but they're starting to sound like banjo strings. I know I've ridden with spokes looser then these of some bikes.
Rix
100 TW
Bexxer said:
Super Lube Synthetic grease. 30CC (30ml) per hole. My Bombers Box has 8000+ miles on it. Maybe even 10,000 now, I keep forgetting I have done a couple of CA hard resets so the mileage is higher than indicated. I wrote an article about servicing the Vboxx here. You will need to create an account to see the pics. There are 5 screws on the back of the Vboxx. Whatever you do, do not remove the center screw. http://www.stealthelectricbikes.com/forums/topic/vboxx-service/
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:These cheapy harbor freight dial gauges turn you into a wheel super genius if, you've got the time, and patience . I'd a still prefer to pay someone to do it for the front wheel for me.
I'm starting to think the torque wrench may be over kill. None of the spokes are even 20 in lb yet , but they're starting to sound like banjo strings. I know I've ridden with spokes looser then these of some bikes.
Look at you getting all serious about the truing process, I have never went that far. Couple of pencils on the swingarm when truing is it for me.
Lurkin
100 kW
whats the maximum rim tension TV?
Rix said:Theodore Voltaire said:These cheapy harbor freight dial gauges turn you into a wheel super genius if, you've got the time, and patience . I'd a still prefer to pay someone to do it for the front wheel for me.
I'm starting to think the torque wrench may be over kill. None of the spokes are even 20 in lb yet , but they're starting to sound like banjo strings. I know I've ridden with spokes looser then these of some bikes.
Look at you getting all serious about the truing process, I have never went that far. Couple of pencils on the swingarm when truing is it for me.
It's because I don't know what I'm doing, or I didn't. Now I'm happy to say it's straight as phuk. The dial indicators, and the little $10 wrench is really all I should have needed. The torque wrench is kind of a bust, maybe because I'm using used spokes.
I started on the final process about 6 hours ago. I would get it reasonable true, only to find it was a little to the right. I read that .002 was considered a professional job, but at first I was thinking about .010 was going to be the best I could do, but in the end I really was about to get it down to 002, and it's centered too.
That's so much work I wouldn't do it again unless I have to. The front wheel is no doubt heading for REI. The new skill I've just learned will come in more handy for truing in the future, but I'll probably always do my rear. There's just no one I trust with my motor better then me.
Rix
100 TW
@TV, you know what you are doing, or your wheel wouldn't have came out good. If its any wonder to you, my first MC rim I laced up to my 5403 on my Bomber, I bet I had a total of close to 10 hours into it. It didn't take me 10 hours, maybe about 6 like you, but because I didn't use a tensionometer, I ended up re truing after about the first 5 rides or so. Now that I got the "FEEL" down, I can lace a rim in 20 minutes, and have it trued in about 1 hour. Still way slow by a cycle shop wheel smith standards, but I can gitterdone. BTW, I think it only took me like 3 minutes to mount the MC tire on the Bombers TC4080. Fastest MC tire mount I ever did.
Rix
100 TW
SWEET! When will get to ride it?
one4torque
10 kW
You are giving me confidence TV. Nice job. Can't wait to hear your 1st riding impression.
I took the easy-way-out and shipped mine to moto-bike-wheels in NY. It get's here Wed for my flux alpha.
I took the easy-way-out and shipped mine to moto-bike-wheels in NY. It get's here Wed for my flux alpha.
one4torque said:
As soon as my front hub gets here, I'll be schlepping down to REI and pay them to build my front wheel. At least with the rear wheel the forks act as a good truing stand. The front wheel is a different story. Meanwhile I'll be able to ride my bike to school.
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