E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[biknut]

CJona, do you know how many watts it's pulling when it's overheating? Does it have to be going full speed to overheat?

 

[CJonaBttlrckt]

CJona, do you know how many watts it's pulling when it's overheating? Does it have to be going full speed to overheat?

Hi Theodore and thanks,
Not sure the watts being pulled, noting it is the 6.2kW stealth.
It overheats whether being ridden conservatively and/or with the watts turned down through the DC1.
Cheers
Clinton

 

[Rix]

Hi folks
Question...are there any other owners of the current model bomber (96v & UFO motor) experiencing repeated controller and less frequent DC1 failures?
Cheers

Tell us what you got going on?

Hi Rix and all,
On my recommendation, early last year my friend picked up a new bomber, coincidentally one of the first with the UFO motor.
It's a very fast bike..too fast I'd argue and I do wonder why stealth seem to go for speed over torque...anyway, that's an aside!

The bike is now on its fifth or sixth controller, including two sine wave controllers, and its second or third DC1.

Typically in two to four months it seems to cook the controllers and who knows what it's doing to the DC1.

After the first few normal replacement controllers stopped working, stealth sent two sine wave controllers.
The first sine wave just stopped working, saying 'cannot connect throttle' and the last sine is now overheating too quickly.
The replacement normal controller for this overheating sine wave controller overheats in minutes and is un-rideable, so he is planning to go back to the overheating sine wave so he can at least ride it for now!

I have been reluctant to post about this previously thinking stealth would fix and also I thought if there was someone else having the same problem, they would post about it.

My friend is otherwise very happy with the bike...though he is at times ready to ride it off a cliff!

Incidentally, at the same time another friend also picked up a fighter and it has been generally trouble free!

Cheers

Stealths newest battery should be 92 volts hot off the charger 22s, not 96 volts, that would be a 23s battery. Anyway unless something has changed, Stealth's controllers use 4110 fets, and they are good up to 100 volts, but I have seen controllers blow those fets at 92 volts. If you are running a 96 volt 23s battery, my guess is your are blowing fets as its so close to 100v max cap.

 

[CJonaBttlrckt]

Hi again and thanks Rix,
Sorry, it would b 92v.
Going off memory!

Our assumption has been failing fets.

So higher voltage fet controller required.

Thanks again
Cheers
Clinton

 

[biknut]

Since graduating from professor Rix rebound class 101, I decided to go out into the world and make my mark.

Turning the knob all the way fast took 28 clicks from where I was. This resulted in a soft feeling ride, but the bike would pogo after a bump. It would compress, rebound fast, compress again, and rebound a final time. The rear wheel would move up, down, up, down.

I added 14 clicks in the slow direction. That made a noticable difference, now it would compress, rebound, and compress. The wheel moved up, down, and up. Only 3 moves instead of 4.

I added 3 more clicks slow. That made it compress, and rebound, and only a slight trace of down. call it 2 1/2 moves.

I added 3 more clicks slow. Then all it did was compress, and rebound. Rear wheel went up, and down. Almost prefect, but it felt firm.

I went back toward fast 1 click from there. Now it's perfect. The rear wheel compresses, and rebounds 1 time.

It's now 9 clicks fast from where I started. The difference is, the rear wheel moves about the same as before, but the ride feels softer now.

I would of had a hard time figuring this out on my own, because I didn't think rebound damping had this kind of effect. I thought the compression damping did this.

 

[biknut]

I'm thinking if Stealth made a boat, this is what it would look like.

 

[rockstar195]

Since graduating from professor Rix rebound class 101, I decided to go out into the world and make my mark.

Turning the knob all the way fast took 28 clicks from where I was. This resulted in a soft feeling ride, but the bike would pogo after a bump. It would compress, rebound fast, compress again, and rebound a final time. The rear wheel would move up, down, up, down.

I added 14 clicks in the slow direction. That made a noticable difference, now it would compress, rebound, and compress. The wheel moved up, down, and up. Only 3 moves instead of 4.

I added 3 more clicks slow. That made it compress, and rebound, and only a slight trace of down. call it 2 1/2 moves.

I added 3 more clicks slow. Then all it did was compress, and rebound. Rear wheel went up, and down. Almost prefect, but it felt firm.

I went back toward fast 1 click from there. Now it's perfect. The rear wheel compresses, and rebounds 1 time.

It's now 9 clicks fast from where I started. The difference is, the rear wheel moves about the same as before, but the ride feels softer now.

I would of had a hard time figuring this out on my own, because I didn't think rebound damping had this kind of effect. I thought the compression damping did this.

Theodore V:

1) The first part, you are referring to the front fork, right?
2) 28 clicks....that's the compression knob?
3) What is your setting for rebound?
4) The one with 9 clicks, that's your rear shock? What is the type and model???
5) Is your riding mostly for street?

Thanks!!!

 

[biknut]

Theodore V:

1) The first part, you are referring to the front fork, right?
2) 28 clicks....that's the compression knob?
3) What is your setting for rebound?
4) The one with 9 clicks, that's your rear shock? What is the type and model???
5) Is your riding mostly for street?

Thanks!!!

No this was rear shock class, my bad for not being clear about that. It's a Fastrace shock with 1200 lb straight wound spring. It only has preload, and rebound adjustment. The preload is easy to adjust, but I didn't understand much about the rebound adjustment. Now I'm a PHD. :wink:

 

[rockstar195]

Pics of the rear shock and maybe a link where to get it please.
And more pics of the bike are fine too.
How are your settings working out for the front fork?

 

[biknut]

My Fox forks were so good right out of the box that so far the only thing I've done to them was reduce the air pressure slightly, and add a couple clicks of compression damping.

The combination of good quality rear shock, and Fox forks has transformed the ride on my bike. Don't tell anybody, but there's a lot of motorcycles that don't ride nearly as well as my bike does.

 

[biknut]

Pics of the rear shock and maybe a link where to get it please.
And more pics of the bike are fine too.
How are your settings working out for the front fork?

I bought this shock to lower my bike a little, it's 1/2" shorter than stock. One thing I didn't plan on, but worked out in my favor was since this shock doesn't have a reservoir it made room for the dropper seat post.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-280MM-FASTACE-BF-A01AR-BS-35AR-REAR-SHOCK-1000-lbs-BRAND-NEW/123884543862?hash=item1cd8181f76:g:L1kAAOSwve1az71o

 

[biknut]

I keep forgetting to report on what it's like riding with a dropper seat post. For street riding it's perfect. It only took a couple weeks to get good at using it. Typically after taking off from a stop I raise the seat a couple of inches to pedal comfortably. Then right before coming to a stop, I drop the seat all the way down, and sit flat footed at a light. When taking off, I can pop the seat up to any height in an instant. The operation of the seat can be very fast, or as slow as you want, and it's easy to control with a lever on the handle bars. It's a 4" external, Fox Transit.

On long rides when your butt starts getting worn out, it's nice to change the seat height a little bit. There's also a kind of wow factor when cars following you see the seat come down just as you stop at a light. This is about as fancy as it gets on a bicycle.

The only catch is if you want it as low as possible, you need to get a shock without a reservoir.

 

[KarlJ]

OK - Front brake bleed episode has been an epic fail, bike out of operation for a couple of normal commute days which SHITS ME TO TEARS - Literally! Have too much time on my hands sitting in the car and car takes almost double the time
Took the MT2 lever and calliper assembly off the bike took it to the bike shop, they didn't do much if any better than I did and its still shit.
So I'm reading all these articles about how shit the magura is to bleed / doesn't like being topped up wont go through a full set of pads without running out of fluid....

SO.... someone make me feel better about the prospect of spending $400-500or so bucks on a brake upgrade.

Whats the performance difference Deore/XT/ZEE/ Saint?

Do the same bleeding problems exist with MT5?

Karl

 

[biknut]

What's the prob? I have mt2 and I haven't had any problem bleeding them. I watched a couple of youtubes first, but I don't see any difference from the shimano's on my other bike.

I bought a bleed kit on amazon. This is what I do. First remove the brake pads, and install the temporary plastic block that holds the pistons in place. Turn the master so that the lever is slightly up from level. Screw the plastic reservoir into the master cyinder. Next hook your syringe to the caliper, bleeding the air bubbles out of the clear hose before opening the nipple. Open the nipple and start running fluid into the caliper. The reservoir on the master cylinder will start filling with fluid. You should start seeing bubbles coming out as the reservoir fills. When the reservoir is almost full, reverse the flow by pulling on the syringe. Stop before the reservoir is completely empty, and reverse the flow again. Repeat this process several time until no more bubbles appear in the reservoir. Finally draw down the reservoir to almost empty, Close the nipple on the caliper, and then carfully remove the reservior, and replace the plug. Clean any fluid off the caliper, and install the brake pads. That ought to do it.

 

[KarlJ]

mine doesnt have a nipple but rather a plug at the caliper end, anyway back to the bike shop as the universal bleed kit they sold me wasnt even close to correct fittings

 

[Cowardlyduck]

MT2 on the front! There's half your problem.

I like Magura and use them on all my bikes, but would never put an entry level MT2 on the front. Rear is fine, but the front needs at least MT4, better MT5. My Fighter has MT4/2 Front/Rear. So far they have done very well and I haven't had to bleed them.

I've only just taught myself how to bleed for the first time using the Magura MT5/4 (Front/Rear) on my LMX64. Had no issues with the MT4 on the rear, but the MT5 on the front is proving problematic.
I think it's more down to my technique though and there are a few tips from TV above I didn't know so will try again following that advise and see how I go.

Cheers

 

[biknut]

Do you have trouble attracting the opposite sex? Has your love life been dead on arrival since the BeeGees died? Do you spend your Friday nights on the couch watching reruns of the Brady Bunch?

Would you like to get your groove back? Then your bike needs, Dr Voltaire's, Macho man Streamer's.

Warning, may cause intense sexual activity, check with your doctor before usage. This product has not been approved by the FDA.

 

[biknut]

The top secret biknut skunk works never sleeps

 

[Trelos]

Hi folks
Question...are there any other owners of the current model bomber (96v & UFO motor) experiencing repeated controller and less frequent DC1 failures?
Cheers

Tell us what you got going on?

Hi Rix and all,
On my recommendation, early last year my friend picked up a new bomber, coincidentally one of the first with the UFO motor.
It's a very fast bike..too fast I'd argue and I do wonder why stealth seem to go for speed over torque...anyway, that's an aside!

The bike is now on its fifth or sixth controller, including two sine wave controllers, and its second or third DC1.

Typically in two to four months it seems to cook the controllers and who knows what it's doing to the DC1.

After the first few normal replacement controllers stopped working, stealth sent two sine wave controllers.
The first sine wave just stopped working, saying 'cannot connect throttle' and the last sine is now overheating too quickly.
The replacement normal controller for this overheating sine wave controller overheats in minutes and is un-rideable, so he is planning to go back to the overheating sine wave so he can at least ride it for now!

I have been reluctant to post about this previously thinking stealth would fix and also I thought if there was someone else having the same problem, they would post about it.

My friend is otherwise very happy with the bike...though he is at times ready to ride it off a cliff!

Incidentally, at the same time another friend also picked up a fighter and it has been generally trouble free!

Cheers

Hi
Your overheating problem may well be the size and weight of your rear tyre, and is that also a heavy duty rim and spokes ?
24 fet might be the answer.

 

[biknut]

Hi
Your overheating problem may well be the size and weight of your rear tyre, and is that also a heavy duty rim and spokes ?
24 fet might be the answer.

Probably not. From my experience Stealth builds a lot of extra reserve potential in their bikes. A lot of Stealth owners have installed larger rims on their bikes without problems. I have 65mm double wall rims, plus I maxed out my ca at 65 amp, up from stock 60 amp, and my bike hasn't experienced any problems even riding in 100 plus ambient temperatures in Texas.

 

[Rix]

Since graduating from professor Rix rebound class 101, I decided to go out into the world and make my mark.

Turning the knob all the way fast took 28 clicks from where I was. This resulted in a soft feeling ride, but the bike would pogo after a bump. It would compress, rebound fast, compress again, and rebound a final time. The rear wheel would move up, down, up, down.

I added 14 clicks in the slow direction. That made a noticable difference, now it would compress, rebound, and compress. The wheel moved up, down, and up. Only 3 moves instead of 4.

I added 3 more clicks slow. That made it compress, and rebound, and only a slight trace of down. call it 2 1/2 moves.

I added 3 more clicks slow. Then all it did was compress, and rebound. Rear wheel went up, and down. Almost prefect, but it felt firm.

I went back toward fast 1 click from there. Now it's perfect. The rear wheel compresses, and rebounds 1 time.

It's now 9 clicks fast from where I started. The difference is, the rear wheel moves about the same as before, but the ride feels softer now.

I would of had a hard time figuring this out on my own, because I didn't think rebound damping had this kind of effect. I thought the compression damping did this.

Glad you got your bike dialed, if you did a lot of offroad riding/racing, you would have figured it out, or you would have been the King of going over the bars and crashing.

 

[Rix]

Hi again and thanks Rix,
Sorry, it would b 92v.
Going off memory!

Our assumption has been failing fets.

So higher voltage fet controller required.

Thanks again
Cheers
Clinton

Is your friend heavy? Barring any issues such as an intermittent short somewhere, it may be an inductance load issue causing the problems. I knew one guy here who was blowing controller on a Bomber, but he was very heavy, (300 pounds) and had the skills to ride the bike hard and fast. Consequently after replacing his controller and going with a custom 20s battery (84volts hot) he never had another problem. Said that to say this, if you are sure there is not something externally causing the controller to fail, and your friend is a big guy, going to a higher voltage rated controller with 4115 fets will most likely solve the issue.

 

[biknut]

My bike is 6 yrears old this month. 12,591 miles. Here's a list of all failures I've had.

1. RH swing arm bearing. $16

 

[KarlJ]

SZXJR store Aliexpress 11A 92.4V charge arrived! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32898793585.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6f474c4dNNvQqa

Well given my stock charger vs new battery at 2700Wh was a slow exercise I bought one with more grunt from aliexpress.
Took 5 weeks to arrive and does not have trim pots to adjust the voltages, all controlled by a little board hence will be simply keeping a close eye on it and only charging to 90V to save the controller going bang.
It is about the same size as the stock unit but makes less than half the noise and barely gets warm vs the stock charger.

Carbon fibre sheets arrived for the side panel inserts - they are a little shorter than the stock pieces, easily cut with an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32979500493.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6f474c4dNNvQqa
See attached pics - i'm not one for counting the KGs but at 108g the pair vs the stock side covers which were >250g each (cant tell you how much they weigh as my little scales only read to 250g.

I was highly impressed, looks like prepreg to me, weave all nice and straight used 5 min epoxy to glue them on after a quick scuff and clean - the old covers practically fell off as carbon fibre sticky tape over aluminium.

Last but not least Upgraded the charger port to powercon type and converted the two chargers and the stock charge port, I was going to make a two into one adapter so i can charge it at ~17A but the small wires from the stock port will need an upgrade and I didnt have the correct wire size on-hand, a later job. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3X-1-set-PowerCON-Type-A-NAC3FCA-NAC3MPA-1-Chassis-Plug-Panel-Connector-H2V2/183873115386?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[Rix]

:lol: :lol: I didn't even have that, I had a seat triangle failure and it was promptly replaced under warranty. Thats it.

My bike is 6 yrears old this month. 12,591 miles. Here's a list of all failures I've had.

1. RH swing arm bearing. $16