EBIKE ISSUES

Sam97

100 µW
Joined
Jan 18, 2025
Messages
9
Location
Crofton, KY
I bought an ebike from China (12000W 72V 75AH) model similar to the stealth bomber ebike. One day I was riding it some and worked fine, parked it. Later (same day) when I wanted to ride it again it wouldn't run. Ended up putting a new controller in it (Sabvoton 72200) it worked to go to my work place but when ready to go home it wouldn't work. If I turn on the bike and twist the throttle the wheel just jerks a little bit then that's it. I had a buddy test the hall sensors with a hall sensor tester and everything looks good, but bike simply does not work. It has a UKC 1 display. Any suggestions??
 
Later (same day) when I wanted to ride it again it wouldn't run.
If I turn on the bike and twist the throttle the wheel just jerks a little bit then that's it.
When you write "wouldn't run" Were symptoms the same as after you replaced controller?

Measure voltage at battery. Also check all connectors. All wire connections should be clean and tight.
 
No, after putting on a new controller I rode my bike about 2 miles to my work place, and it seemed to be working fine, but when ready to go back home it wouldn't work, if I twist throttle it jerks just a little bit then that's it. Then I have to restart my bike and try again, but one thing that was different after putting on my new controller the brake cut off light was lit up on the display, and when braking it would turn off, but the actual brake cutoff switch still worked as it should, just the light was reversed.
 
I would:
1. disconnect the brake cutoff connectors from the controller and retest. if the bike works, you need to fix/replace your brake cutoff(s).
2. since your friend verified that the hall sensors are working, you could rerun the hall sensor setup in the controller's firmware to see if it just lost the configuration.
 
attached are my controller settings
 

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No, it just jerks again

Your hall sensors could also be fried. How hard were you on the throttle on the way to work? A lot of bigger motors have dual hall sensors, in case one set goes bad. Does your motor have two hall connectors? You can also manually test them with multimeter (see the link).

If the halls are good, and running the hall detection in the controller setting was unsuccessful, you may need to manually set the hall and phase wire combination. Right now, your motor could be in the "stuck" position. Follow the flow chart until you have the motor running smoothly and in the right direction.

HRaeRi4.jpg
 
I do have 2 hall connectors, I tried both of them, no difference. Tonight I also tried to run a hall test, but was unsuccessful, as soon as I tried to do the test the motor would just jerk a little bit again.
 
The white learning wire? I had a similar problem and it was the controller " configuration" like EHP said, maybe a loose wire, check voltage at battery?
 
Ok, I replaced the controller, replaced the throttle, and replaced the display (UKC), and my bike worked again for about 2-3 weeks. Tonight I tried turning it on and error code 30H came on display. I have a Sabvoton 72200 controller with a UKC1 display, the power light keeps blinking dimly green, and nothing happens if I twist throttle. Any suggestions. I'm about ready to use my bike as a boat anchor and get something else!!
 
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