Ebike Project 72V HS3540 UK "build thread" +Videos!

something very annoying happened today... my bulk charger died again (3rd time).
this time, cheap chinese resistor decided to blow up 5min into charging...
IMG-20130503-01445.jpg
Having BMSBattery charger gives me a good reason to balance charge individually every now and then :wink:

I'll replace it and see if I can make it come bk to life
 
It looks like the burnt resistor is part of the snubber circuit, probably the FETs are also shorted.

By the way, nice new frame you got there...
 
I'm leaving UK very soon and I'll continue to make some videos and the updates but for now...
I am selling my bms chargers so check it out if you live in UK!
 
danjpendleton said:
Looks like the bike is very versatile
thanks!

I've started sort of new life in Japan away from UK now so dont have time to update...
BUT! I"ve bought back my bike with me and is already assembled back! so will do some updates in next couple weeks! :mrgreen:
 
Great thread. I am interested to hear a couple of things...

1. Current configuration and parts (motor, controller, battery)

2. Top speed and distances

3. Total bike weight

Also it would be awesome to see a thread on how you built your battery setup from scratch.
 
1. Current configuration and parts (motor, controller, battery)
20s2p (83.5v 10ah Lipo),HS3540 sensored (MethTek), 12FET lyen @ 50A

2. Top speed and distances
Top speed 45mph(72.4km/h)

3. Total bike weight
32kg.

I've got most of how i set up the battery packs on fisrt couple pages of this thread so check that out.
 
Okay, I just read through your entire thread because im setting up a similar bike (electronics wise). I have an hs3540 and im going with an infineon 40 amp controller, cycle analyst v3, and 18s3p turnigy lipo battery setup composed of (9) 6s5000mAh packs(15Ah total).

I know you had issues with your bmsbattery chargers and frankly i havent heard many good things about that business anyhow, so ill be sticking with evassemble.

http://www.evassemble.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=6

i was looking at this^^^360watt charger, but they also offer a 600watt charger as well for about $40 more.

As far as balance charging, hows your cheapo ebay one working? Do you think id be okay to bulk charge and use 3 battery medics (6s3p) kind of like what you did with 4? I can easily make 3 harnesses for the balance leads. Cant say I really understand why you use the battery medics to balance out the cells though, if you have a seperate dedicated balance charger. Guess im a little confused, because i thought thats what the battery medics were supposed to do. Also when you tie two packs together at the balance leads and plug them into the battery medics....how does that accurately account for differences in voltage between the two packs... and if i did that with 3 packs?

Also curious if your controller has an on/off switch? Mine does so Im trying to decide whether I should wire in a main power switch at the batteries like you have.

Last question- you only made one harness correct, for both charging and running the bike? (when bulk charging)

sorry about all the questions. theres so many differnt ways to setup these lipo packs, id rather be spot on the first time.

from my understanding, they stay pretty well balanced as long as you ditch the duds from the get go. then setup a bulk charging method with your good packs and balance charge them every 25 cycles or so. Understanding this is easy, but implementing it and gathering all the necessary parts/wiring/chargers is where im having trouble
 
danjpendleton said:
As far as balance charging, hows your cheapo ebay one working? Do you think id be okay to bulk charge and use 3 battery medics (6s3p) kind of like what you did with 4? I can easily make 3 harnesses for the balance leads. Cant say I really understand why you use the battery medics to balance out the cells though, if you have a seperate dedicated balance charger. Guess im a little confused, because i thought thats what the battery medics were supposed to do. Also when you tie two packs together at the balance leads and plug them into the battery medics....how does that accurately account for differences in voltage between the two packs... and if i did that with 3 packs?
They balancer works okay
What I do when I charge my pack is:
1, I plug them in the bulk charger and start charging.
2, I check the battery medic and see if any of the cells are out of balance.
3, If not, i'll leave it on there(without using balancing function) so that I know how much its charged.
3, if yes, I'll see if I can balance them with battery medic. If not, I'll separate it from the bulk pack and use slow dedicated balance charger to balance correctly.
End... I only use the slow Balance charger like once a year since none of my battery goes out of balance anymore.

The good thing about paralleling cells at the beginning (pairing, then series connecting) is that each cells in pair will try to balance their selves without having to balance them. So, usually what you see on your battery medic is what each packs have.

Almost forgot, The reason why I used to use battery medic all the time while bulk charging was to make sure new packs dont do crazy things...New packs needs to be looked after carefully for the first 10 cycles. after that, they act as they should. Once cells are balanced, you shouldnt try to use battery medics to balance them unless you must. (if battery is balanced (I top balance them), they dont usually go out of balance easily).
Also for your setup, 3p means there are more energy battery medic needs to get rid of to balance, so it will take alot longer to balance them so may not act as well as my setup...However, if it definitely useful to have them to know what voltage each cells are at.

Also curious if your controller has an on/off switch? Mine does so Im trying to decide whether I should wire in a main power switch at the batteries like you have.
I have a switch no my handle bar that does on/off of controller. but no, it did not come with on off switch built in tho it did come with on off wires.
it helps to have battery main switch when you need to charge. Those cheap charger likes to get plugged into the mains, turned on then pluged with battery pack.

Last question- you only made one harness correct, for both charging and running the bike? (when bulk charging)
yea thats right. I didnt want to have anything other then plug and play type of easy charging method :mrgreen: . (tho I do need to take them all out once in a while)


PS: 18s3p sounds alot of batteries, got enough space for it on the bike??
 
I had originally planned on using a rack with rear bags to stick the lipo in. Its been hard for me to make up my mind about the battery....For about $1200 i can get a samsung 20R cell pack 21s7p -which equates to 75.6v nominal and 13.65Ah. These cells from what I hear last for 2000+ cycles if they are charged and discharged properly. Plus they are the high discharge cells, so will easily handle 40A and will most likely configure to fit my frame triangle...(did i mention plug in, charge, thats all). Ive added up the costs for lipo(packs, balance charger, wiring/connectors, bulkcharger, labor, failure rate) and its about 400 less give or take. I know I can set up a good lipo pack and manage them, but its so tempting to go with the samsung pack. The batteries have definitely been the hardest deciding factor in my ebike build. Thanks for answering my questions. Ill let you know which way I go.
 
before you decide I'll tell u something from my experience.
my first E-bike did have battery pack on the rear rack. it was so out of balance and I never got satisfied with how it looked. plus you will never find perfect stand so it will fall once in a while. if lipo is not protected very well, you could damage the lipo.
I'm surr you thought about the pros and cons but have think about long run. :)
 
Just put a deposit on the samsung pack from paul at em3ev. he said it will fit the frame triangle. Easy peasy japaneesy
 
How are Doc's torquearms holding up with the dp410?

I just bought a 2008 Epic comp and planning to do the same as your dropouts 8)

Thanks m8
 
Boestin said:
How are Doc's torquearms holding up with the dp410?

I just bought a 2008 Epic comp and planning to do the same as your dropouts 8)

Thanks m8
After over 3000miles, still holding solid!
Only thing I've done is to paint it with anti-rust paint so I try winto rust away.

Just make sure you heat it while letting them harden.
 
Just installed everything here and I used different torquearms..
Now I am having the same problem as you did earlier.. the BB :D Which one did you buy? ~ the 52t.. I have 4-bolt chainrings though, so I don't know if it fits
 

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Boestin said:
Just installed everything here and I used different torquearms..
Now I am having the same problem as you did earlier.. the BB :D Which one did you buy? ~ the 52t.. I have 4-bolt chainrings though, so I don't know if it fits

Sorry I didnt get back to you sooner. I had trouble logging in the other day and I've completely forgot about this :(
Now, as for the Troque arm, I dont think its very strong setup (unless you are planning to use it for less than 1kw setup.)

bottom bracket is something I've looked for a while and the way i've found the right fit one is to get the measurements and look up on ebay.
There are many specialist shops where they sell all types of BB with different applications. google it and shouldnt be hard finding one.

lastly, I dont know if you wanted to fit 52t on your 4-bolt chainrings but there are none that I know of...unless you look up on ebay for custom made ones.(not good quality i say)
 
Okay, Its been a while since my last update.

I run into trouble last week...My ebike has finally given up on me on way to work...
I was going about 30mph when light changed in front of me so I let the throttle go and regen kicked in,
I hear grinding noise just like when sensor wires aren't matched as well as slight movement on the rear wheel.

long story short, rear wheel with Dr Bass's torque plate came slightly loose and rear wheel is just holding onto the frame.

I've managed to lightly pedal to work and back home that day. From what i'm guessing, something shorted and killed the hall sensor...

I'll update with photo in few day!
 
Here are the updates!

I"ve cleaned up the bike and drop out. And YES, the problem was with hall sensor. I"ve replaced all three just in case,
I'm surprised with how clean the inside of the motor was despite all the riding and harsh conditions in the last three years!

Here are the photos!

Almost forgot, I've bought another HS3540 so the next time something goes wrong, I can always replace the wheel and off I go! :mrgreen:
Then, I can fix the motor with my free time...or I end up with two dead motors...lol
 

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