Electra Townie Path 9d conversion

[ToAsTyWoAsTy]

I know, I know.. another newbie needing help. I was pointed to this forum for the biggest wealth of ebike knowledge so here I am.

I have this bike...

Townie Path 9D EQ Step-Over - Electra Bikes

Start your two-wheeled adventure with Townie Path 9D EQ Step-Over. See the bike and visit your local Electra retailer. Shop now!

electra.trekbikes.com

From what I have gathered the rear hub Bafang 750 or 500 models would be good for flat Florida roads. I would rarely go over 20 miles and looking to cruise around 20mph or faster if its not a ton more cost. Also I weigh about 200lbs and I would like to have a throttle.

My problem is when I look at the different conversion kits I am confused on which one would work/fit my exact bike. Also if anything extra would be need to convert my bike and where the best battery location would be.

Thank you for reading and if you can help point me in the correct direction then thank you in advance for that

 

[fill]

20 mph is a reasonable speed expectation, your candidate bike looks ideal with disk brakes and a nice big roomy frame triangle to house a low mounted battery to aid balance with a low centre of gravity.

500w should be ample check the motors optimum rpm to be sure, What sort of range and how much pedal input do you want to contribute (none is a valid answer, not everyone is an athlete)? you might get by with the cheaper 36v battery packs and systems?? What's the terrain like?

Be mindful for hydraulic brakes you will probably need to select the stick on brake sensor option rather than accept the default cheap cable brake levers with sensors kits come with.

Post links to the kits your considering and your concerns/questions,

 

[neptronix]

Based on pictures of the rear of the bike, it looks like you have 135mm dropouts. And 27.5" wheels.
You should use a caliper or tape measure to confirm. But that's the most likely case.

Flat ground means you don't need a lot of power. But you may need a little extra power if your area gets windy. If that's the case, 750w is the ticket.

I say buy a complete kit for a 27.5" rear wheel. And make sure to get a rear torque arm. The ones from grin are the best, and the only ones i recommend.

 

[ToAsTyWoAsTy]

20 mph is a reasonable speed expectation, your candidate bike looks ideal with disk brakes and a nice big roomy frame triangle to house a low mounted battery to aid balance with a low centre of gravity.

500w should be ample check the motors optimum rpm to be sure, What sort of range and how much pedal input do you want to contribute (none is a valid answer, not everyone is an athlete)? you might get by with the cheaper 36v battery packs and systems?? What's the terrain like?

Be mindful for hydraulic brakes you will probably need to select the stick on brake sensor option rather than accept the default cheap cable brake levers with sensors kits come with.

Post links to the kits your considering and your concerns/questions,

Thank you for the response and great questions...

I plan on doing a good amount of pedaling but would like the option to not have to. An example would be traveling 5-7 miles from which I would pedal most of the way there but would like the motor to assist. If its a long day of pickle ball or something that I am just drained then I would like to be able to not peddle home.

The terrain is very flat in South Florida and its all paved roads/sidewalks. I would ride near the ocean at times which does get pretty windy and I didn't think of that till the other member's comment.

I was looking at these kits on amazon by Bafang which can be customized. I do not need that fanciest thing for a screen and all of that. I just want to get the right parts and be able to do what I am wanting and possibly more (who knows where I would travel in the future). Here is the link but it has a couple of selections that I am unsure about...

https://www.amazon.com/BAFANG-Conversion-Brushless-Intelligent-Controller/dp/B0DMZBTXXD/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3CY4BOERJQ3OX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.DuvLtXo1cBIz3nGpzRfBL9REEbj5u2rVnF68L3fCmVbdEbYXcXn7g9o2IEdx_0-JvCkE1BI7v5jS7aj8WETuhxe8yVCd482HtpLyir8BISaZqQNgIv4lUKrJ6mQxMEmhERaxbJOwXOS3ytORik8z9E2WAoYAQL0QjKNrJzTbOB5OJI962uyA6W2cY6uOi72t7go5Z62OrsqNXf4vI7fbj_YZuztKx0_XejnKESLLsCY.TR7HSmCKc1a_E2-i3_A9awoWVAuPJ9TLwmAbiuM-_g4&dib_tag=se&keywords=bafang+750w+hub+motor+kit&qid=1736522885&sprefix=bafang+750w%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-4

It looks like I would select 48v750w27.5" rear hub motor // a small LCD display// add the brake sensor // Not sure which is best... 48v20Ah downtube Samsung battery?? // Also not sure... left or right Pas sensor?? I am not sure what that is.

The other comment said I need a rear torque arm so I guess that's the only other thing outside of that kit that I would need?

 

[ToAsTyWoAsTy]

Based on pictures of the rear of the bike, it looks like you have 135mm dropouts. And 27.5" wheels.
You should use a caliper or tape measure to confirm. But that's the most likely case.

Flat ground means you don't need a lot of power. But you may need a little extra power if your area gets windy. If that's the case, 750w is the ticket.

I say buy a complete kit for a 27.5" rear wheel. And make sure to get a rear torque arm. The ones from grin are the best, and the only ones i recommend.

Thank you. I will check measurements before ordering. You bring up a great point about the wind... it gets pretty windy near the beach here. I will be shopping for the 750w rear wheel kits. This is the first that I have seen about a rear torque arm so I guess I will need that also. I will use your recommendation and shop the grin brand also.

 

[docw009]

From what I have gathered the rear hub Bafang 750 or 500 models would be good for flat Florida roads. I would rarely go over 20 miles and looking to cruise around 20mph or faster if its not a ton more cost. Also I weigh about 200lbs and I would like to have a throttle.

I agree. Having converted a number of bikes with rear 500W motors, they will all get up to 22-24 mph on 48V on throttle only. Florida, from what I've seen down there is flat, with the only hills being those high causeway bridges, We did all of our riding down there on recreational bike paths, I would not want to be on any highway or busy road like 19A. Yikes.

When most riders say they want to go 20 mph, very few do, Takes too much concentration for me, worrying about cross traffic and not wanting to get doored. It's also a lot of wind on a upright beach cruiser.

The main difference between a 750W and 500W kit is controller power. The motor is often the same unit. It sounds to me like you don't need to fight that beach wind to go 20 mph to make your pickle ball time.

 

[fill]

PAS (Pedal Assist Sensor/System) turns the motor on/off according to pedal rotation. magnets on a disk and a hall effect sensor..

Torque arms - Very good idea ..

Downtube battery can be mounted significantly lower than a top/rear heavy rack mount imo.

Good news its all pretty modular
12months later you want a different display/controller - OK

 

[docw009]

By the way, is there any reason to want a conversion? Ebikes are so common these days and so cheap, the $800 you spend for a conversion could be put toward a commercial ebike, I've converted over a dozen. I know it's cheaper to buy, The only reason I can justify it is I already have the battery in hand, and I want to try a different bike style or motor,

.

 

[Chalo]

I've converted a bunch of Townies, all with geared front hub motors so far. I use 48 volt batteries and 22 amp controllers. They top out in the mid to high 20s mph with a fresh charge, depending on rider weight. They are comfortable, capable bikes and I highly recommend them.

Mostly I install a front rack and/or front basket to hold the controller and the battery if it's 10 lbs or less. That way the rear rack can be used for carrying stuff.

 

[Chalo]

By the way, is there any reason to want a conversion? Ebikes are so common these days and so cheap, the $800 you spend for a conversion could be put toward a commercial ebike, I've converted over a dozen. I know it's cheaper to buy, The only reason I can justify it is I already have the battery in hand, and I want to try a different bike style or motor,

My conversions with second life batteries and salvaged motor wheels usually cost under $300, and the bike isn't total crap like a sub-$1000 ready made e-bike. Very cheap bikes are not usually good value at all.

Commercial e-bikes also tend to feature dumb things like inside-the-frame batteries, that trap you into a limited and needlessly expensive replacement parts system. Most of them run internal cables which make troubleshooting and maintenance an unnecessary hassle.

 

[2old]

I agree with the above. This is an example of a front conversion that cost $250 for the Bafang 500w, 22 amp (AIR) motor (from Amazon). Paired with a 52V, 10 ah battery ($350 or so for a battery mfg in the USA). The bike has speeds of 25 mph or so with a 180 pound rider.

 

[aroundqube]

The Amazon link to Bafang kit is descriptive of many differing kits. Bafang has operating systems that are preset at the factory. The preset speed limit needs to be guaranteed by the seller. The kit described has the EKD01 display , which requires a password to change speed limit.https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3223870/E-Bike-Ekd01.html?page=11#manual. The whats in the box specifies a 36v 250w sticker. I read that the blue tooth streaming and route info have a free trial period, then require a subscription.

 

[docw009]

My conversions with second life batteries and salvaged motor wheels usually cost under $300, and the bike isn't total crap like a sub-$1000 ready made e-bike. Very cheap bikes are not usually good value at all.

Commercial e-bikes also tend to feature dumb things like inside-the-frame batteries, that trap you into a limited and needlessly expensive replacement parts system. Most of them run internal cables which make troubleshooting and maintenance an unnecessary hassle.

It's an overused picture, but I trot it out to show my membership in the cheap ebike club. This is with a used bafang front motor and 36V scooter battery, around $100 for the pair plus $50 for electronics.
I hadn't dressed any of the cables. Tied the overly long battery to the frame. Too anxious to get a test ride. Used a crap Walmart Kent donor bike though, Awful rim brakes. WIll never do that again,



What it looks like today. Now with small 48V10Ah $250 battery. Fake leather bags from China. Still daydreaming about more ways to dress it up, but it's fun to ride on the local bike path, You bever see cruisers, much less electric ones. Poke along at 14 mph,

 

[ToAsTyWoAsTy]

By the way, is there any reason to want a conversion? Ebikes are so common these days and so cheap, the $800 you spend for a conversion could be put toward a commercial ebike, I've converted over a dozen. I know it's cheaper to buy, The only reason I can justify it is I already have the battery in hand, and I want to try a different bike style or motor,

.

My only reason for looking to convert is that I already own a bike that I enjoy, and it fits my needs for comfort and where I plan on riding. Obviously if the cost was close or more to convert then I would look to just buy an ebike.

 

[ToAsTyWoAsTy]

The Amazon link to Bafang kit is descriptive of many differing kits. Bafang has operating systems that are preset at the factory. The preset speed limit needs to be guaranteed by the seller. The kit described has the EKD01 display , which requires a password to change speed limit.https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3223870/E-Bike-Ekd01.html?page=11#manual. The whats in the box specifies a 36v 250w sticker. I read that the blue tooth streaming and route info have a free trial period, then require a subscription.

Thank you for the reply. I definitely do not want a month charge/ subscription. If it has a password for speed change is that like a one time thing for top speed? I would want it to be a simple as possible and not needing to push buttons while riding if possible.

 

[ToAsTyWoAsTy]

I've converted a bunch of Townies, all with geared front hub motors so far. I use 48 volt batteries and 22 amp controllers. They top out in the mid to high 20s mph with a fresh charge, depending on rider weight. They are comfortable, capable bikes and I highly recommend them.

Mostly I install a front rack and/or front basket to hold the controller and the battery if it's 10 lbs or less. That way the rear rack can be used for carrying stuff.

I was shopping rear hubs. Why do you go with the front hubs? What would you recommend for the bike that I have?

sorry for my ignorance but I do not know the pros and cons of front vs rear.

 

[docw009]

Properly installed front drives are fine, but poorly installed ones can break the forks and faceplant the rider. I did a front hub on my cruiser because I got a good deal on the motor and the bike has a steel fork,

 

[classicalgas]

I was shopping rear hubs. Why do you go with the front hubs? What would you recommend for the bike that I have?

I was shopping rear hubs. Why do you go with the front hubs? What would you recommend for the bike that I have?

sorry for my ignorance but I do not know the pros and cons of front vs rear.

Front hub motors are easier to install than rear hub, significantly so. Wiring is simpler and shorter, no chain or derailleur to mess with.

You have a disk brake aluminum front fork, so get a Grin torque arm intended to bolt to your brake caliper mount, and the whole thing will be as simple and safe as it gets (for ebike kits)

The only downside of a (correctly installed, moderate power ) front hub is the possibility of spinning the front wheel (accelerating hard on a dusting of sand on a blacktop bike path? ) and dropping the bike. Highly unlikely with the weight distribution and power you're working with. A front rack for the battery (as Chalo described) will fix that.

How good are you with working on bikes? Do you have the tools to readjust your brake caliper after the kit install? What about your rear derailleur and pulling the old gear cluster off your old rear hub and transferring it to your new rear wheel?

 

[ToAsTyWoAsTy]

How good are you with working on bikes? Do you have the tools to readjust your brake caliper after the kit install? What about your rear derailleur and pulling the old gear cluster off your old rear hub and transferring it to your new rear wheel?

Thank you for all if great information and questions!
Sounds like I'm best off going with the front hub.

I am a novice at working on bikes. I have experience working on cars so most of my tools are for that. Are their less specialty tools required if I go the front hub route? What will I need?

 

[classicalgas]

Thank you for all if great information and questions!
Sounds like I'm best off going with the front hub.

I am a novice at working on bikes. I have experience working on cars so most of my tools are for that. Are their less specialty tools required if I go the front hub route? What will I need?

If you have the tools and experience of working on cars, you'll be fine. A few specialized bike tools will help, and watching a few videos (disk brake adjustment, rear cluster removal, derailleur adjustment ) will give you an idea of the tools you'll need. You can get by with just car mechanic tools (if you have a selection of metric Allen wrenches) for a front hub motor, but if you do much of this ( it's an addictive hobby ) you'll want to buy some bike specific mechanic tools. Transferring your rear sprocket cluster from old to new rear wheel will require a specialized tool, and which one depends on what's on the bike now. Utube vids will show you what I'm talking about.

The biggest adjustment is, don't over tighten fasteners. You're used to car torque levels on bolts, so take it a little easy on the bike bolts.

 

[neptronix]

Just a note about your bike..

The upright position of that bike is as such that most of the body weight is on the rear. Unlike a mountain or road bike, where it's closer to 50/50.

For good traction, i'd recommend a rear motor over a front.

 

[ToAsTyWoAsTy]

Just a note about your bike..

The upright position of that bike is as such that most of the body weight is on the rear. Unlike a mountain or road bike, where it's closer to 50/50.

For good traction, i'd recommend a rear motor over a front.

Ahhh good point! Im so glad i found this forum

I am just trying to order everything that I will need and it be correct for my bike

 

[Chalo]

I was shopping rear hubs. Why do you go with the front hubs? What would you recommend for the bike that I have?

sorry for my ignorance but I do not know the pros and cons of front vs rear.

Front hub motors are easier to install, they leave the bike's pedal drive completely unaffected, and they put the usually stronger and more dependable normal bike wheel in back where it does harder work. Flat fixes on the front wheel are less frequent and easier to deal with. There are fewer ways for a front hub motor to have a mechanical problem.

Yes they can skid on hard starts or loose surfaces, but because they're still pulling in the steering direction and not just sliding, it's manageable even when it happens.

Also for whatever reasons, front hub motors are more plentiful and cheaper on the secondhand market.

 

[classicalgas]

Just a note about your bike..

The upright position of that bike is as such that most of the body weight is on the rear. Unlike a mountain or road bike, where it's closer to 50/50.

For good traction, i'd recommend a rear motor over a front.

The Townie Path has its seat post top just about where a modern MTB has it ( relative to the rear axle), maybe even a little forward, and a lot more bike in front of that than most MTBs, so if the battery is mounted on a front rack ( like Chalo suggested) the weight distribution should be fine.

I wouldn't put a 2000 w hub motor up there, but 500w geared motor should be fine. A battery good for 20 miles at 20mph, like the Opie first mentioned, won't be a heavy enough pack to hurt steering feel if mounted close to the stem and solid. Even in the triangle would work. Lots of bike ahead of the seat post.

If it were me, for the same mission ( 20 miles, flat land, 20 mph cruise) I'd put a TSDZ2B in the bottom bracket... but I've done enough of those to be familiar with the process and have all the tools. There's less than $50 difference in price these days. The torque sensing setup feels very natural to pedal, and having the controller built in cleans up the wiring a ton. not enough power to bother the drive-train much.


If you don't have the BB tools, and have never worked on a bike before, not so good a choice.

 

[classicalgas]

Ahhh good point! Im so glad i found this forum

I am just trying to order everything that I will need and it be correct for my bike

You're discovering one of the basic truths of engineering ...there is no "correct" or "best".

There are always tradeoffs, and disagreements ( even among the knowledgeable) as to what solution to recommend.