Electric longboard noob build

[camyboy]

So here is my part list

Motor - http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18127__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_6354_260kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

ESC + Programming Card
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/single-motor-120a-6s-esc/
http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/torqueboards-esc-programming-card/

Single Motor Mechanical Electric Longboard Kit (DIYElectricSkateboard)

Batteries (x2)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9184__Turnigy_5000mAh_3S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html

Now I am debating to getting this http://www.amazon.com/No-Spark-Current-Battery-Arming-Connectors/dp/B0092U6940 because I know I need a on/off switch. I am also getting http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.html

Any tips recomended. Ive already purchased the motor mounting kit and the ESC. Thanks!

 

[torqueboards]

That's a great on off switch. Youll just have to solder connectors to match the arming switch.

 

[camyboy]

That's a great on off switch. Youll just have to solder connectors to match the arming switch.

How would I go about doing that? What's the arming switch? I've got no clue on most of engenering parts.

 

[torqueboards]

That's a great on off switch. Youll just have to solder connectors to match the arming switch.

How would I go about doing that? What's the arming switch? I've got no clue on most of engenering parts.

Arming switch is just an on/off switch to arm the system and turn it on and off.

You simply just unplug it and when you do turn it on. You hold the red button for anti-spark and plug in the connector.

Here's another method which sl33py made which you can do too but it requires soldering - https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=72687&p=1098122&hilit=loop+key#p1097655

 

[camyboy]

That's a great on off switch. Youll just have to solder connectors to match the arming switch.

How would I go about doing that? What's the arming switch? I've got no clue on most of engenering parts.

Arming switch is just an on/off switch to arm the system and turn it on and off.

You simply just unplug it and when you do turn it on. You hold the red button for anti-spark and plug in the connector.

Here's another method which sl33py made which you can do too but it requires soldering - https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=72687&p=1098122&hilit=loop+key#p1097655

I'm not sure what I have to soder, and what the connectors are and such?

 

[sl33py]

I'm not sure what I have to soder, and what the connectors are and such?

Hey Camyboy - welcome to ES!

Depending on your level of skill and having the tools (Decent soldering iron - especially for heavier gauge wires like 8/10/12 awg), you might do better getting something that is plug and play. The linked anti-spark (Deans connectors, with the red push button when arming) would be great, but you likely will need to solder your power and ESC wires to deans to match. Ultimately i think it's worth going to one standard connector and sticking with it. On your batteries you don't have deans connectors, and you are (possibly) getting more of the 4mm HXT (red) connectors like your batteries. At this point if you have to swap connectors on a $15 loop key/ arming switch like the one linked on amazon you might as well use your HXT to do the same?

I personally prefer the XT60/XT90 connectors currently. Before that i've used Deans for years. Doesn't matter as long as you solder them correctly, but will help simplify down the road if you pick just one type of connector now at the start.

What charger are you getting for this setup?

You might do better in the short run to try and get everything pre-made if you haven't soldered before or don't have a good iron. I know Torque has a really nice anti-spark switch...

 

[sl33py]

Connectors break down:

Deans Ultra (what i used for years - good plug)

Deans Ultra XT

Your HXT 4mm

Here's a decent mix of common connectors -

B1 - Deans (T) type main connector - Female & Male. Used for main connection to speed controllers and motors. Used for medium to high current draw. HOBBYWING chooses this connection mainly
B2 - JST / BEC type main connector - Female & Male. Used for main connection to speed controllers and motors. Used for low current draw
B3 - Tamiya main battery plug usually used on Car and Boat batteries (NiCd / NiMh) - Female & Male
B4 - Bullet Connectors - Female & Male. Single wire connectors, available in a range of different sizes to suit current draw / load requirements from 2mm to 8mm
B5 - HXT Connectors - Female & Male. Available in 3.5mm and 4.00mm sizes. Used for main battery connectors for medium / high power applications
B6 - Traxxas Connectors - Male & Female. Mainly used on high current draw car and boat batteries
B7 - XT60 Connectors - Male & Female. Used for high current draw battery connections
B8 - EC3 Connectors - Male & Female. Used for high current draw battery connections
B9 - Flight Power / Thunder Power (FP / TP) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male
B10 - Hyperion / PolyQuest (HP / PQ) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male
B11 - JST-XHR (XH) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male
B12 - JST-EHR (EH) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male

My current favorite option - XT90. This one w/ the green is the "anti-spark" kind and love this ability!!

XT60/XT90 - the Number in XTxx is the *roughly* the amp draw capacity in constant amps. So an XT60 should be able to handle sustained 60A draw, XT90 - sustained 90A draw. I'd take that with a grain of salt as it's marketing. I know they will peak well past the 60/90 range for short periods.

Here's my main issue/concern with the HXT 4mm connector - they are identical and can be hooked up incorrectly! As in welding/molten metal.

Better described here on RCgroups.

Tons of ways to slice this. It's really about picking which one you want. I like "keyed" plugs i cannot connect incorrectly. I still managed to solder one backwards and slag a few connectors before figuring it out one night late (tired and in a rush - dumb mistake).

HTH - GL!

 

[camyboy]

Connectors break down:

Here's a decent mix of common connectors -

B1 - Deans (T) type main connector - Female & Male. Used for main connection to speed controllers and motors. Used for medium to high current draw. HOBBYWING chooses this connection mainly
B2 - JST / BEC type main connector - Female & Male. Used for main connection to speed controllers and motors. Used for low current draw
B3 - Tamiya main battery plug usually used on Car and Boat batteries (NiCd / NiMh) - Female & Male
B4 - Bullet Connectors - Female & Male. Single wire connectors, available in a range of different sizes to suit current draw / load requirements from 2mm to 8mm
B5 - HXT Connectors - Female & Male. Available in 3.5mm and 4.00mm sizes. Used for main battery connectors for medium / high power applications
B6 - Traxxas Connectors - Male & Female. Mainly used on high current draw car and boat batteries
B7 - XT60 Connectors - Male & Female. Used for high current draw battery connections
B8 - EC3 Connectors - Male & Female. Used for high current draw battery connections
B9 - Flight Power / Thunder Power (FP / TP) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male
B10 - Hyperion / PolyQuest (HP / PQ) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male
B11 - JST-XHR (XH) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male
B12 - JST-EHR (EH) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male

My current favorite option - XT90. This one w/ the green is the "anti-spark" kind and love this ability!!

XT60/XT90 - the Number in XTxx is the *roughly* the amp draw capacity in constant amps. So an XT60 should be able to handle sustained 60A draw, XT90 - sustained 90A draw. I'd take that with a grain of salt as it's marketing. I know they will peak well past the 60/90 range for short periods.

Here's my main issue/concern with the HXT 4mm connector - they are identical and can be hooked up incorrectly! As in welding/molten metal.

Better described here on RCgroups.

Tons of ways to slice this. It's really about picking which one you want. I like "keyed" plugs i cannot connect incorrectly. I still managed to solder one backwards and slag a few connectors before figuring it out one night late (tired and in a rush - dumb mistake).

HTH - GL!

I will most likely be gettin this charger http://www.amazon.ca/Traxxas-TRA297...8&qid=1444085439&sr=1-2&keywords=Lipo+charger
and these connectors [urlhttp://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.html[/url] Do i need anything else? like the anti spark. The thing with torque it would be 80$ plus 40$ shipping. 80$ is a lot for a spark switch. Tbh I think plug and play would be fine because I have no clue what I am doing. Although my dad does have a soder I just wouldnt know what to tell him to soder what etc.

 

[camyboy]

Connectors break down:

Deans Ultra (what i used for years - good plug)

Deans Ultra XT

Your HXT 4mm

Here's a decent mix of common connectors -

B1 - Deans (T) type main connector - Female & Male. Used for main connection to speed controllers and motors. Used for medium to high current draw. HOBBYWING chooses this connection mainly
B2 - JST / BEC type main connector - Female & Male. Used for main connection to speed controllers and motors. Used for low current draw
B3 - Tamiya main battery plug usually used on Car and Boat batteries (NiCd / NiMh) - Female & Male
B4 - Bullet Connectors - Female & Male. Single wire connectors, available in a range of different sizes to suit current draw / load requirements from 2mm to 8mm
B5 - HXT Connectors - Female & Male. Available in 3.5mm and 4.00mm sizes. Used for main battery connectors for medium / high power applications
B6 - Traxxas Connectors - Male & Female. Mainly used on high current draw car and boat batteries
B7 - XT60 Connectors - Male & Female. Used for high current draw battery connections
B8 - EC3 Connectors - Male & Female. Used for high current draw battery connections
B9 - Flight Power / Thunder Power (FP / TP) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male
B10 - Hyperion / PolyQuest (HP / PQ) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male
B11 - JST-XHR (XH) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male
B12 - JST-EHR (EH) LiPo Balance Charger plug - Female & Male

My current favorite option - XT90. This one w/ the green is the "anti-spark" kind and love this ability!!

XT60/XT90 - the Number in XTxx is the *roughly* the amp draw capacity in constant amps. So an XT60 should be able to handle sustained 60A draw, XT90 - sustained 90A draw. I'd take that with a grain of salt as it's marketing. I know they will peak well past the 60/90 range for short periods.

Here's my main issue/concern with the HXT 4mm connector - they are identical and can be hooked up incorrectly! As in welding/molten metal.

Better described here on RCgroups.

Tons of ways to slice this. It's really about picking which one you want. I like "keyed" plugs i cannot connect incorrectly. I still managed to solder one backwards and slag a few connectors before figuring it out one night late (tired and in a rush - dumb mistake).

HTH - GL!

Okay so i was just thinking about using those reset switch connects instead of the 4mm ones. I found a youtube video how to install them and its fairly simple. Just one question. Do i still need a spark switch? and how would I turn the board on and off?

 

[sl33py]

Okay so i was just thinking about using those reset switch connects instead of the 4mm ones. I found a youtube video how to install them and its fairly simple. Just one question. Do i still need a spark switch? and how would I turn the board on and off?

"reset switch connects" - ? Are you talking about the xt90 anti-spark ones or something else?

Yes, soldering is simple - the hard part when you watch someone else is they usually have a nice solder iron and have practiced. When you solder 10/12g wire it's a big heatsink and you need a hot iron with a wider tip to get it to solder correctly. Otherwise it will separate or not stick at all when you tug on it.

Need vs want - you don't need an anti-spark switch at all. Depending on the # series batteries used (6s/8s/10s/12s) - the higher voltage of each equals a more dramatic "pop!"/spark when connecting them. Which wears down your plugs and always makes me jump even expecting it.

Turn it on/off by plugging it in or unplugging it. simple. I built a swappable inline anti-spark with the xt90 anti-spark plug and have a similar series and parallel connectors so i can swap to any set of packs as needed. Since all of mine are now xt90 as a standard.

HTH - GL!

 

[camyboy]

Okay so i was just thinking about using those reset switch connects instead of the 4mm ones. I found a youtube video how to install them and its fairly simple. Just one question. Do i still need a spark switch? and how would I turn the board on and off?

"reset switch connects" - ? Are you talking about the xt90 anti-spark ones or something else?

Yes, soldering is simple - the hard part when you watch someone else is they usually have a nice solder iron and have practiced. When you solder 10/12g wire it's a big heatsink and you need a hot iron with a wider tip to get it to solder correctly. Otherwise it will separate or not stick at all when you tug on it.

Need vs want - you don't need an anti-spark switch at all. Depending on the # series batteries used (6s/8s/10s/12s) - the higher voltage of each equals a more dramatic "pop!"/spark when connecting them. Which wears down your plugs and always makes me jump even expecting it.

Turn it on/off by plugging it in or unplugging it. simple. I built a swappable inline anti-spark with the xt90 anti-spark plug and have a similar series and parallel connectors so i can swap to any set of packs as needed. Since all of mine are now xt90 as a standard.

HTH - GL!

and yes was talking about the xt90 anti-spark ones. Im just going to use 2 3S batteries. How much will it wear it down? Will i have to repair it? Do i just need 1 set of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__61690__XT90_S_Anti_Spark_Connector_2pairs_bag_.html or extras?

 

[camyboy]

Okay so i was just thinking about using those reset switch connects instead of the 4mm ones. I found a youtube video how to install them and its fairly simple. Just one question. Do i still need a spark switch? and how would I turn the board on and off?

"reset switch connects" - ? Are you talking about the xt90 anti-spark ones or something else?

Yes, soldering is simple - the hard part when you watch someone else is they usually have a nice solder iron and have practiced. When you solder 10/12g wire it's a big heatsink and you need a hot iron with a wider tip to get it to solder correctly. Otherwise it will separate or not stick at all when you tug on it.

Need vs want - you don't need an anti-spark switch at all. Depending on the # series batteries used (6s/8s/10s/12s) - the higher voltage of each equals a more dramatic "pop!"/spark when connecting them. Which wears down your plugs and always makes me jump even expecting it.

Turn it on/off by plugging it in or unplugging it. simple. I built a swappable inline anti-spark with the xt90 anti-spark plug and have a similar series and parallel connectors so i can swap to any set of packs as needed. Since all of mine are now xt90 as a standard.

HTH - GL!

??? " and yes was talking about the xt90 anti-spark ones. Im just going to use 2 3S batteries. How much will it wear it down? Will i have to repair it? Do i just need 1 set of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... _bag_.html or extras?
and one of these for batteries? http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25661__XT90_Battery_Harness_10AWG_for_2_Packs_in_Series_.html