Electricmoto blade build/upgrade

It is 200A contactor. The sprockets are wrong, that i know now. They fit and lay on the chain good, but the teeth are to shallow.
I have done rough schematics of what i have. Dont mind the pcb markings.
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I have no have possible idea of the problem. I have somewhere battery negative leak to the chassis. I cant yet figure out why. There is no continuity between chassis and controller connectors, chassis and contactor connections. When battery was on the bike i was getting pack voltage between positive terminal and battery box but as soon as i took it out, its gone. I tried to simulate some pressure on the lid and sides and could not get it to leak. Mastery
 
It's a little hard to follow the diagram, but it appears there is a connection across the contactor:



I doubt that's how it's actually wired or something would have smoked. Seems like the only thing controlling the contactor coil is the fingerprint reader. Try unplugging it.
 
Yeah, you right. Ther must be only one wire from controller positive to resistor.
In alltrax diagram precharge resistor is permanently connected to controller. Do you know if it would drain battery slowly over time?
 
As long as the ignition line is off, the precharge resistor will only be allowing the leakage current through the main caps. This should be very low, like a few uA.
 
I have tested the bike with a smaller sprocket. Top speed arround 63kph. I will leave it at that at the moment.
Have done front panel, still need some curve to it but its getting there:

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I have tested again why I get negative on the frame. There is no continuity between controller terminals and chassis, contactor terminals and chassis, motor terminals and chassis. When I connect a battery to controller only, there is no voltage between battery positive and chassis. When I connect controller to the motor I get negative on the chassis and see full pack voltage between battery positive and chassis. Any insides on this?
 
Nice work there Agniusm.

I have the 2011 Zero S and it has the Alltrax 4855 controller running on 14s Li Ion with a 200 amp MZJ-200 contactor. A lot of Zero owners reported faults with this contactor and have upgraded to a 400A contactor.

Have you had any luck tracing that short to the frame? Was it the faulty Leaf module you talk about in this thread here http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=52162&start=325

I read of a few instances where the motor was shorting to the axle and case when powered on, but this was on the Agni. When he tested it it seemed ok as was not showing short with the beeper function on the multimeter, but in fact it was 300k Ohm on the Ohm meter function, which dropped with power applied. Maybe you could try testing the motor with a small battery connected directly to see if it is the motor?
 
Thanks, good idea, I will do that. Agni motor and this one is from Cedric Lynch design, so it could be it. I have tested the controller and it has no continuity with the frame.
 
So it wasn't the faulty LEAF battery module causing the short?
 
I don't know if it is faulty or not, it just charged weird. None of them have a leak through the casing. When i connect everything up without the motor i get no leakage. As soon as i connect ether terminal or both to the motor i get negative leakage to the chassis.
 
What about the bolts on the motor mounting plate, maybe they are too long and shorting?
 
They are original from moto blade so i don't know. There might be a loot going on, probably. Some had faults with hub motors when metal flake stuck inside rendering leakage. I will finish my bodywork and send out parts for painting and then will be looking into this motor issue.
 
It's possible carbon dust from the motor brushes is giving a leakage path in the motor. I've seen this happen before. The path generally has a very high resistance, so not likely to affect anything. With the power off, you could measure resistance with your meter from the motor terminals to the case and see if you get anything.

I'm not sure how hard it is to take apart the brush holder on that motor. If it's not too hard, you could remove the brushes and clean the area. Just compressed air works pretty good.
 
I got the motor apart. Easy enough when you know how to do it, took me some time but its good. Will change bearings while I am at it. Sandblasted the casing to refresh the look, blew out the dust and iron flakes with compressed air.

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After some clean up:

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BMS harness done:

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Still waiting on BMS unit.
Got most of the wiring done. 2 faults. One with fingerprint scanner/main switch, contactor is engaged on activation of main switch. Second with throttle. Found the fault with the throttle, on my new PCB i have used 3 connector pins out of four. One common, the other that goes through limited speed adjustment pot. Some more troubleshooting, not long, not long at all :)

Also set out new drawings (thanks to Danny R.) to sprocket gear manufacturers.
This time 38T:

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Checked yesterday and it still happening. Must be overlooking something. I did tested on the bench with 12V connected and it was good.
 
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