Electrifying SUCKS Amps!!!

I feel your pain. From out of stock parts and huge shipping delays, wrong parts finally arriving, fit problems, a small but destructive
crash on one of my maiden voyages to cheep chi-com solders, etc. etc. I also have thrown a few sparks and melted a couple of things down. High performance E-biking is a hobby and and you will always be working on your bike (or thinking about improvements). Heck, it is the same way with non motorized bikes if you ride them a lot. No one said it was going to be easy, but if you stick with it and use the resources available to you (particularly this forum) you will succeed.

That being said, I see a Honda in your future. 8)

J
 
Ya, sometimes you just gotta "step away from it" for a while.

A lot of DIY e-bike "beginner" problems can be attributed to part, or all, of the following:

1. Very poor product documentation (this is one of the biggest problems with nearly all Chinese products).

2. Very poor quality control (again, a very big problem with many Chinese products).

3. An understandable "lack" of the electrical and/or mechanical experience and knowledge required for an immediately successful first time DIY e-bike build.

4. A lack of patience (which, is understandable when you consider the "very high" prices that these hub motor kits demand).

Many of us here at ES have years, if not decades, of electrical and/or mechanical experience and yet we still have "problems" with our e-bike builds. Therefore, the average DIY e-bike enthusiast (with "less" electrical/mechanical experience) can often expect to have even greater difficulties while attempting their first DIY e-bike build.

Having said this, I would suggest that you dwell on the fact that you've taken on a demanding project that, in and of itself, says much about the positive aspects of your determination and resilience.

Hang in there retro, you'll get it all figured out.
 
I'm afraid that without electric I would be unable to ride my trike due to arthritis and would be stuck in the house going downhill fast! Of course there are some problems but that is what keeps this hobby/sport interesting. You get better and better at keeping bikes/trikes running the more you do of it. I have been at electric trikes for almost 10 years and they generally work like a watch or refridgerator, except every once in a while I need to maintain them and use my brains a bit. It could be a lot worse.
otherDoc
 
dodjob said:
lol M E G A - T R O L L ! ! ! B-))
You could have asked for help nicely.. but I fully agree, this post is a success ^^ And nobody knows what your problem is and why your daaamn summer finish the 10th of July ^^
Gruß,
H.
Click to expand...

You couldn't be more right, I have never received this kind of response and I had always asked politely before.

The problem was me, so now I blush, apologize and move on.

And now that I have resolved this with the assistance of Lyen I'll cough up my error to all who kindly sent their moral support.

The setup is a BMC V3 with LIPO and Lyen's Modified 12FET controller and cycle analyst. I won't get into why these components except to say their advantages fit my requirements and Lyen came highly recommended from fellow members.

When I first powered up everything, I was waiting for the motor to be laced into a wheel so this was done without a motor. All lit up just like cool! Cycle analyst came online and allowed me to go through the menus for an hour or so. Then snap, snap, snap.... I couldn't get the battery disconnected fast enough. I went over everything one connection at a time and isolated every conceivable area. Opened up the cycle analyst, opened up the controller and found no indication of shorts anywhere. Lyen suggested I put an inline fuse to the controller from the battery. I had enough connectors left to get a glass fuse connector and plug in a 6amp fuse. Powered up and all looked good.... I had everything mounted to the trike, just waiting for the wheel.

Five weeks later, Friday, I get my wheel from the LBS. A friend thought I'd have this thing up and running in a couple of hours, I'm a picky fellow when it comes to electronics, I knew I wouldn't be running until Saturday, there's always something. Mount wheel, plug in battery and snap crackle pop.... coming from the controller. I open the controller and check the resistances across the MOSFETs, everything looks good. No scorching, no sign of problems inside at all. Lyen is baffled too and suggests I return the unit for his inspection. This morning I take a fresh start at it. Logically it is not the controller, unless there is a bad discrete component. Lyen assured me he checks each of his controllers before shipping, I believe him, so it has to be something I did.

I was putting one battery pack at a time to the controller, then two.... it was during this I noticed a cold solder joint at the + connector from battery to controller. I am using EC5 connectors and I guess the extra size didn't get hot enough. And I had taped around the connector and wires that it was the tape holding everything together. :oops:

Everything is up and running; a working cycle analyst, a working throttle and the motor spins like a jack rabbit. My only concern now is the indicated current draw of 73 amps! The trike is on a stand, wheel spinning freely with no drag.

Anyways, that is my story and I thank all that listened and apologize to any who were offended.
 
retro said:
My only concern now is the indicated current draw of 73 amps! The trike is on a stand, wheel spinning freely with no drag.
Click to expand...
That's a big concern! I would measure the actual draw myself, using my own trusted shunt and my own trusted voltmeter.
 
There's a reason 75% of my comments start with, check every connection and wire carefully...... :mrgreen: Anybody could overlook the same problem easy. Still quite a few weekends left for riding this summer. 8)
 
It's your LBS that sucks IMO. 5 weeks to build a wheel, you could have sent it overseas back and forth, and still get it built in half that long. My guess is they don't like you. :wink:
 
I've had really good experiences with this "new" thing of electric bicycles.

I started last year about this time (with the idea that I should try it), wrote and got a grant, and then built (with students) an electric tricycle. There were slight glitches along the way, but nothing serious.

Then, when that project ended and the school had an electric tricycle for moving things, etc., I decided to make an e-bike for myself (to commute to work this fall when school starts again). The project went great. The only issue I had was that my dropouts were a wee bit narrow, and the wheel didn't want to fit easily in there. I could have filed the dropouts or replaced the forks, but instead went with the tool most people would discourage: The hammer.

I took a block of wood, put it against the bolts coming out of the wheel motor, and gently hammered the wood on both sides until the assembly fit into the dropouts correctly. It's in there so snug I don't need a torque arm (but installed it anyway).

Here's what I believe is the secret of success with these projects (disclaimer: This is my opinion, and many will disagree):

BUY AMERICAN as much as possible (and by American I'm including Canada, of course, because they rock).

I purchased both kits from EbikeKit.com and wasn't let down in any way. Jason, the owner, responds to every single email. He explains and takes the time to help you. The entire setup came from New Jersey. Yes, many of the components are Chinese, but they are assembled in America and backed by Americans.

Americans are better businessmen than the Chinese, in my opinion, and back their work. In America, a warranty is honored.

Sure, there are excellent businessmen in China, and some post here on Endless Sphere and have good reputations. But I try to buy American.

LifePo Batteries? I'd rather pay a couple hundred more to get one from AmpedBikes, EbikeCA, or (if they sell them again) EbikeKit.com.


You can get a good Ping for 350-600 bucks, but I'd rather pay 700-800 bucks for a Lifepo encased in steel or aluminum, and from someone in this country who gets a salary.

I do buy Chinese products, and I don't boycott Chinese goods, but I am an American, and will do the best I can to buy American as much as I can. I believe I come out ahead in many ways. What goes around comes around. The dollar I spend in America might come back my way.

That's just my opinion.
 
retro said:
I've been following this forum for a couple of years and wow, thought this is the cat's ass.... I got suckered, cause I don't have money to throw around, yet thought it could be done within a reasonable investment.... guess again... unless you're a moron with endless pockets, this idea sucks!!!!!! folks reading this and wondering what to do???" go buy yourself a cheap Chinese knockoff scooter and forget the rest. This isn't rocket science by any means, yet to get anything to work.... buyer beware :twisted:
Click to expand...

Dang, he's on to us! quick, everyone run! Lol

Glad you calmed down

It's not rocket science, but it is somewhat non standardized, non plug and play, battery/electronics/motor science. It helps to have a background or a friend with a background in all of the above.
 
  • If your drawing 73 amps with wheel off the ground, somethings wrong I would think?

I would tend to agree that you have to put the shunt value of your controller into the advanced setup in the cycle analyst.
 
MadRhino said:
cassschr1 said:
If your drawing 73 amps with wheel off the ground, somethings wrong I would think?
Click to expand...
The CA is not calibrated, he has a false reading.
Click to expand...

+3
 
I'm in agreement.... and I have contacted Lyen to find out what the shunt resistor value is inside the controller, since this is a direct plug-in model cycle analyst.
I have nothing available to check the current draw with a known value so I'll wait for my answer from Lyen.
 
liveforphysics said:
My translation:


If you're useless, anything that requires someone useful is a poor choice in hobby.


Stick to TV, video games, movies, all the other hobbies enjoyed by the useless.
Click to expand...

That's awesome! :lol:
 
After my rant, take a deep breath and come back to it next day.

Analyze problem, find problem, repair problem. Get required info and now the CA is set.
Peaks at 4 - 5 amps with no load, settles to 3.5 amps...

Murphy just needs a smack to the side of the head every now and then 8)
 
Just quick question, What is the voltage coming out of the hall sensor output leads from the controller? My BMC 50A controller is putting out only 4.73V for the power and 4.60 for the logic. If you can check this, that would help me greatly. It seems like there might be something wrong with my controller since it only turns for a sight moment before indicating a problem with the Hall Sensors.
 
What a wonderful out pouring of understanding and support! The people on this forum truely rock!
 
liveforphysics said:
My translation:


If you're useless, anything that requires someone useful is a poor choice in hobby.


Stick to TV, video games, movies, all the other hobbies enjoyed by the useless.
Click to expand...


Now I am not echoing that and saying that the OP is useless...he seems to have initially posted out of sheer frustration and then found the prob....

But Luke... :p that really made me laugh ...a quote for life that is...your F ing brilliant...maybe I would add Watching Football ( soccer to you guys) ...and spending every night in a pub, boozing, smoking and watching....football on TV...to the hobbies enjoyed by the useless



SamTexas said:
Most multimeters (including the cheap $4 Centech) can measure up to 10A for 30 seconds.
Click to expand...
 
But Luke... :p that really made me laugh ...a quote for life that is...your F ing brilliant...maybe I would add Watching Football ( soccer to you guys) ...and spending every night in a pub, boozing, smoking and watching....football on TV...to the hobbies enjoyed by the useless
Click to expand...
Sometimes I wish that's all I could do!Does that make me useless? LOL.
I F@#$$# shit all the time, but I don't give up I guess that's why I am still here trying to keep my ebikes running and still thinking about building more. 8) 8) 8)
 
wineboyrider said:
Sometimes I wish that's all I could do!Does that make me useless? LOL.
Click to expand...


Same here...if we could do nothing,,,then all the useless F wits would not keep pestering us to do jobs for them..be it fixing computers, cars motorbikes, boats, household appliances....bedroom appliances...yes ..even them...had a girl come to me with one of her items that had stopped working...I obviously mades sure she gave me a full demo of it in action after I fixed it ;)
 
mvly said:
Just quick question, What is the voltage coming out of the hall sensor output leads from the controller? My BMC 50A controller is putting out only 4.73V for the power and 4.60 for the logic. If you can check this, that would help me greatly. It seems like there might be something wrong with my controller since it only turns for a sight moment before indicating a problem with the Hall Sensors.
Click to expand...

Had a chance to get to the voltmeter today and my measurements are very close to yours... the power is 4.7volts and the sensors each measured 4.9volts to battery ground.
Hope this helps.

As for my original post, for each action there is an opposite and equal reaction. Electrifying DOESN'T Suck! :D

I've had a week's worth of riding and after a couple of initial adjustments to my CA and controller, this rocks. The V3 is running flawlessly with only 38 - 40volts and I have limited the current to 30amps. With a 10Ah battery, I've gone almost 60km with peddling, I actually only use the motor to flatten hills or push headwinds, but I did open it up once and achieved 58kph... at that point I was probably pushing my current limit as it was using 1200watts.
 
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