Em-260s gtsp not saving

G

GreenLeoMan

1 mW
Joined
May 20, 2022
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17
I have hooked it up to a qsmotor 8kw 17in hub motor on my tao leo. Upgraded from an em100 and 3kw qs 17in which I had no issues with. I've installed all the proper drivers and am using the proper software and can bus cable it came with. I can't use the read only bus bar method because everytime I try to import the params, the cable beeps 3 times and flashes red repeatedly, so does the controller. I'm stumped, tried everything i can think of. Any help would be appreciated. I'd love to get back to making ride videos on youtube.
 
What does that specific error mean according to the documentation? Does it mean that the cable isn't able to connect to or talk to the controller? Does it mean the read or write failed (whcih one, if so)? Does it mean that the controller doesnt' accept the settings provided?

If it's the latter, then my guess is that since you're using a different motor on a different controller, one or more parameters you're importing don't apply to one or the other, or are incorrect for that item. Generally with the motors, the phase resistance, inductance, etc., will be different between the two different motors. The controller tiself may have different properties, such as different meanings or scales for the data that represents currents, voltages, etc., so some of those could be out of limits for the new controller.

If it's one of the former, it could simply be a bad cable (or controller) or a poor connection anywhere between the computer and the controller. Could even be incompatible firmware between the cable and controller, even if they were provided together.
 
I honestly have no idea.I didn't receive any documentation with anything. It's the qs273 in wheel motor if that helps. I got them both from aliexpress.
 
You could ask the seller for documentation (though most of them can't provide it as they don't even know what they're selling). If they can't help, you could check the various Votol threads here for the documentation they may have. There are web search results for "votol manual" but I don't know if they are the right ones for your controllers.
 
Yea, I've asked and looked for it all over google lol. Couldn't find anything helpful, as usual lol, so I figured I'd give u guys a shot. U seem to know more than I do about these blasted controllers. I'm open to suggestions and willing to give just about anything a try at this point.
 
Well, the way I would do it is first screenshot all the existing settings in the old controller.

Then screenshot all the existing settings in the new controller.

Then if there are specific functions you've configured in the old controller that you require to work the same way in the new one, manually change just those settings in the new controller, rather than importing all the settings from the old controller. But *only* the required specific changes, so that everything else is still at factory defaults.

Re-screenshot all the settings in the new controller. Name this something that tells you what it isand what step in the process.

Then run the autotune on the new motor.

Re-screenshot all the settings in the new controller. Name this something that tells you what it is and what step in the process.

Then manually tune everything experimentally and change the rest of the settings you want to be different from defaults, one setting at a time, until it does exactly what you want (since it's likely that it wont be perfect from the inital settings and autotune).

Re-screenshot all the settings in the new controller after *every* single change in the above step and when complete. Name this something that tells you what each one is and what step in the process.


If at any point the system will not work, go back to the last working settings you screenshotted.


If it doesn't work to even read the new controller's factory settings, then you'll probably have to contact the seller of the cable/controller and see about an exchange or return or other warranty action, as one of those two may have a problem. If that's not an option, you could buy a second programming cable from a different seller (siaecosys, etc) that "guarantees" it is compatible with your specific version of your new controller.
 
Are you sure you have the right PC software? There's a lot of that going around for various versions of the controllers. They do differ in the UI and especially payloads sent slightly (not obvious at first glance though).
 
Tnx amberwolf and bananu7. I will try these options and report back later today. I have downloaded a few different versions of the software. I can't save any settings at all. It always reverts back to stock settings no matter what i change. Gonna try the different software versions to see if 8m using the wrong version. Hopefully that's my solution. I'll let ya know how it goes.
 
There's some fixes involving going into the "secret menu" that supposedly unlock controller writing, too. If you google around you should be able to find them. Also reading the huge votol thread is also worthwhile, although the signal-to-noise there isn't the best.
 
Yea I've combed the votol thread. Mixed emotions about that place lol, but to no avail. Have tried "secret menu but it don't work either cause i can't save to the controller, ugh. I'm starting to think it's a software version issue, a canbus issue or a settings issue. Been working with votols for 5 years now so hopefully i can figure it out. Also, is the 260s canbus or is that only the 260/2? I have the clear blue cable it came with. I believe it's a canbus, but I've got a couple of the older style ones. The light blue plastic ones from siacosys. They are not canbus. Tnx again, i will deff post the fix if and when i finally get it.
 
From the PC side it doesn't really matter I believe - my 260 SGTP came with a dongle that acts as a translator. The controller talks CAN with it, and it exposes itself as a regular 115200 serial port.

It doesn't do straight data transfer either; it inspects and modifies the data, I believe going both ways, acting as a sort of a compatibility layer. Don't quote me on any of this as it's based solely on observation and reverse engineering.

It's high time someone wrote a custom firmware for those controllers, though. They're crippled and gimped by the inexplicable design choices and 90% of the issues with those controllers (idiotic mode settings, completely unreadable programming panel, no analog brake control) would be solved in a weekend if the community had access to the source code.
 
bananu7 said:
From the PC side it doesn't really matter I believe - my 260 SGTP came with a dongle that acts as a translator. The controller talks CAN with it, and it exposes itself as a regular 115200 serial port.

It doesn't do straight data transfer either; it inspects and modifies the data, I believe going both ways, acting as a sort of a compatibility layer. Don't quote me on any of this as it's based solely on observation and reverse engineering.

It's high time someone wrote a custom firmware for those controllers, though. They're crippled and gimped by the inexplicable design choices and 90% of the issues with those controllers (idiotic mode settings, completely unreadable programming panel, no analog brake control) would be solved in a weekend if the community had access to the source code.
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Any chance you can send me a picture of the dongle. Or a link. Mine just came with the programming cable
 
So i unchecked my can option, set baud to 115200 and it connected. I couldn't change any params at that point so i did the "read only busbar" fix, which worked. The red light is no longer flashing but now i have a new issue. After the reset i tried to reconnect so that i could adjust things but now I get the communication abnormal message and it will no longer connect to the controller at all. I open the port but when i hit "connect" the red and green lights on the dongle light up and stay solid. Even after the abnormal communication message both lights stay lit until I unplug and plug it back in. I used the 30 and 94 bin files from the link in the video. Any ideas what to do now? Tnx for all the help so far guys. I wouldn't have even got THIS far without the help.
 
GreenLeoMan said:
Any chance you can send me a picture of the dongle. Or a link. Mine just came with the programming cable
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1742926172179.png

Looks exactly like this. Mine is orange and blue but cables go in the same places.
GreenLeoMan said:
So i unchecked my can option, set baud to 115200 and it connected.
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Same settings I use on a controller that I know for a fact uses CAN to communicate with the dongle above.
GreenLeoMan said:
The red light is no longer flashing
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Not good. Mine does when it's enabled and ready to connect to and/or be operated. Make you sure you have the gray-purple enable pin connected?
 
bananu7 said:
View attachment 367784

Looks exactly like this. Mine is orange and blue but cables go in the same places.

Same settings I use on a controller that I know for a fact uses CAN to communicate with the dongle above.

Not good. Mine does when it's enabled and ready to connect to and/or be operated. Make you sure you have the gray-purple enable pin connected?
Click to expand...
Yea that's the cable/dongle setup I got. And yes i have the grey-purple hooked up. I wish it was something simple like that. The weather is cold and wet right now so I'll try a few more things when it's nicer in a coupla days. I'll report back if I figure anything out. Feel free to share any other possibilities with me as they help me mentally process. Tnx again for the help.
 
Alright it's officially dead. Beware the secret menu "bus bar read only fix. The red light no longer shows up at all. No connection after the fw update. Controller is f'ed. So I'm gonna buy a fardriver and call it a day.
 
GreenLeoMan said:
Alright it's officially dead. Beware the secret menu "bus bar read only fix. The red light no longer shows up at all. No connection after the fw update. Controller is f'ed. So I'm gonna buy a fardriver and call it a day.
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It's likely not permanently damaged, just bricked. You probably put incompatible random firmware on it. Likely what it needs to be revived is a direct ST-link connection and reflash.
 
GreenLeoMan said:
How on earth do u do that?
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I haven't done that with this specific controller, so I'm not sure about the electricals, but supposedly all Votol controllers use ST microcontrollers. Typically they'll expose SWDIO pins which you can connect the ST-link programming tool into and talk to the "CPU" directly. You'll need the aforementioned tool, a known-good firmware binary and form a connection to the processor.

If you have no experience with embedded electronics, that might be a bit much, and finding someone more experienced to help might be a good idea. On the other hand, it's not working now, so it's not like by trying you'd lose something.
 
Unfortunately that's a little beyond me. And I know no-one who could do it so i guess it is scrap. I am so done with votol. I wouldn't have had to reflash the firmware in the first place if it wasn't such a pos to begin with. Fardriver here I come.
 
GreenLeoMan said:
Unfortunately that's a little beyond me. And I know no-one who could do it so i guess it is scrap. I am so done with votol. I wouldn't have had to reflash the firmware in the first place if it wasn't such a pos to begin with. Fardriver here I come.
Click to expand...
Tnx for all the help though. If it wasn't for this thread, I'd still be messing with it. Now I can move on and get something that actually works 🙂. I've never had a fardriver but I've heard good things. I'm gonna go with the 72850. Any feedback about fardriver controllers? Anything I should expect?
 
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