Emove cruiser

You probably want a battery capable of 1500W continuous output then.

40 miles of range at what average speed?
 
Also what kind of vehicle is this going on?

Generally i like em3ev for larger batteries ( by bike standards anyway ):
Ebike Battery in Case | EM3ev
 
What ever its real capacity is, if its dead after just a few blocks,.there is an internal fault in the pack.
The fake capacity lable is just a clue as to the [questionable] quality of the pack and the [questionable] integrity of the vendor.
We know the real capacity is not 38Ah (or 38000mAh). The mAh capacity of the most popular 18650 no name Chinese ebike/scooter cell is 2500mAh being mnufactured in the millions and less expensive than 3000mAh 18650 cells.

So it's easy to figure the actual (not make believe) Ah rating of a 18650 battery based on its number of parallel groups. A 4p would likely be 10Ah(2500mAh cell) to 12Ah(3000mAh cell). A 7p would likely be soemwhere between 17.5Ah to 21Ah (2.5Ah cell to 3.0Ah cell).
So both these batteries had a good range before, and now they don't? Were they stored fully discharged, or allowed to fully discharge and then kept like that for a while?
To be honest don't remember
To be honest ... anyone that buys a 38000mAh, 50000mAh, etc ebike/scooter flat battery thinking they're getting a good deal for the money will most likely be disappointed with its cycle life performance. For example here is a 58000mAh (58Ah) priced at $64 (what a deal?) ...

Here's a 14s6p, 52v 30Ah flat HAILONG for $400 with 84 cells (6p) ... 30000mAh divided by 6 = 5000mAh cell. Thus one could assume this $400 battery uses 21700 cells, but the odds of being 5000mAh cells are 50/50. If 21700 cells may only be 4000mAh no name Chinese (24Ah 52v 14s6p 84 cell battery).

You really can't rely on the battery Ah rating unless you know not only the number of parallel groups, but the mAh rating of the model of name brand dells (LG, Samsung, etc) so you can check its data sheet.

Here's a 52v 14s 30000 (30Ah) flat HAILONG(brand) for $317 ...

This 52v 14s 30000mAh flat HAILONG brand should be 6p with 5000mAh 21700 cells. However, because there is no mention of the model of name brand cells it's questionable if it is actually 30Ah capacity. The only half-trustworthy indication is its cost of $318, but even then whenever you see a battery capacity listed in mAh (e.g. 38000mAh) Buyer Beware ! At least it's a HAILONG so at that price the vendor/seller should be able to verify that it is 6p with 21700 cells (even though its actual capacity at best may be closer to 20Ah.

My only suggestion: If you had it to do again with these same batteries is to have babied them with TLC with moderate speed at most with only a 90-95%% charge and only 80% discharge. Then you might have gotten some half decent cycle life (maybe). Unfortunately the damage (most likely) has already been done. The saying, "Your get what you pay rings true with your two [fake 38Ah ill] batteries; espceially when you have no DIY battery diagnostic experience, so as to possibly repair.
 
That 48v 13s 58000mAh battery mentioned above is listed as 3p ... meaning at most with 3000mAh 18650 cells its actual capacity is 9000mAh (9Ah).
 
What battery would you recommend to handle 2,000 w motor
Looking at 52v how many S n P would I need
Depends on your budget ... if you can't afford to spend more than $335 and that's assuming you won't abuse it then this is one possibility ...


If you can afford +$596 1st class battery with smart BMS from a reliable manufacture ...

Here's a 1600w option t $369 ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8SDQWT...?sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9ocXBfc2hhcmVk&th=1

Here's a 2000w 60Ah (60000mAh) from AliExpress with 1 yr warranty fpr $606 ...

Whatever quality battery is your next purchase ... Treat it Right and you should be rewarded with reliable performance and good cycle life. FWIW, i've never purchased anything from AliExpress, but others here have with Ok performance for the price.
 
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Whatever quality battery is your next purchase ... Treat it Right and you should be rewarded with reliable performance and good cycle life. FWIW, i've never purchased anything from AliExpress, but others here have with Ok performance for the price.
From what I’ve seen, all scooter packs are abused, since most riders use the throttle like an on/off switch, so full throttle most of the time, which is why that cheap junk fake battery didn’t have a chance.
 
From what I’ve seen, all scooter packs are abused, since most riders use the throttle like an on/off switch, so full throttle most of the time, which is why that cheap junk fake battery didn’t have a chance.
Maybe he has an ebike with a 2000w Mid Drive motor or 2000w Rear Hub motor. Here's a $999 scooter with dual 2800w motors (50mph) 60v 27Ah ...


Whether a scooter or ebike with a 2000w motor it needs a comparable ($$$) 1st rate battery with 40amp BMS; especially if the plan is speeding at MCD (pedal to the metal ;)) 30-50% of the time. The problem as i see it is there is no mention of the name brand cells in the battery of the above $999 scooter.

IMO ... don't ever buy a battery if it doesn't list the brand name cells capacity (e.g.Samsung 50E, LG 4800mAh) so you can figure out if the actual battery Ah capacity is the same as that listed by the seller. It may only be 3p (14.4Ah) meaning its actual range will be less than what's listed by the seller (27Ah 50mile range).

FWIW ... you have to be half crazy to buy a scooter that goes 50mph (downhill). If that $999 scooter is as good as its specifications then its Amazon price should be closer to $2000 (if it had better front and rear suspension).
 
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From what I’ve seen, all scooter packs are abused, since most riders use the throttle like an on/off switch, so full throttle most of the time, which is why that cheap junk fake battery didn’t have a chance.
If a battery pack can't withstand full throttle all the time, it's not fit for purpose. Just like a motor that can't withstand full throttle all the time (at reasonable RPM) is also not fit for purpose.

If anybody learns anything useful about e-bikes from me, let it be this: the controller should be the lowest rated component in the entire system. It's the most tolerant of being stomped on, and the cheapest to replace when it gives up. Battery, motor, BMS, cables, plugs-- these things should all shrug off the controller blasting at 100% continuously.
 
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