ESC comparison

austindavid

100 W
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
204
I search but didn't find a thread -- I'll happily redirect if I missed one.

I'm looking at different ESCs to see what works, and what just doesn't. I'll record observations in here.

The test board: 6S / 8Ah, single 280kV n5065. Controller is a wiiceiver, I'm using one of phomman's prototypes.

Baseline: Flier single "120A" / 8S, code CarLV_UV43

Programmed with USB.

I run a dual version of this ESC on my AT board, and have hundreds of miles on it. There seems to be some significant variation in quality and build from Flier -- newer ones are getting hot on the same workload, and some settings behave differently, like braking, even with the same firmware and "same" ESCs. The startup sequence is very important, it's easy to boot this ESC into a nonworking state -- with only brakes active, for instance.

If the startup sequence is correct it seems to work pretty reliably, but does get HOT under relatively gently workloads. I can't imagine running this at a > 60A load.

*update*: a series of hard starts and stops, and the Flier shows the same cutout behavior as the favourite. I suspect it's a timing issue because it recovers instantly. The flier actually gets warmer than the motor. After the start/stop and a gentle hill, the flier showed about 190 degrees (F) and the motor about 140. Flat for 1/2 mile home, and a gentle downhill, and they were ESC 140, motor 130 degrees. The flier is mounted outside the enclosure, heat sync open to air. Apart from adding a fan, this is as cool as it's going to get :((


"Favourite" 6S: http://www.powerslideracing.com.au/fvt-120a-2-6s-brushless-car-esc-waterproof

Brakes are *great*, super smooth. It cuts out at high power consumption, on HARD acceleration or up very steep hills. It runs very cool, even the motor is cooler than when running on a Flier single. I tried to overheat the ESC and ended up blowing a motor (which took the ESC with it). Programming was easy with a little box. On normal "pretty hard" usage it did awesome if you don't overheat the motors. One weird issue, I think the motor timing is "off" a little -- it chirps when I jump to very high power instantly (0->100% in one cycle) with no load. I suspect it's a feedback issue in the actual driver, but hard to test. Doesn't happen under load. Riding "around town" and not actively trying to break it, it works very well.


Hobby King 120A 6S: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28377__Hobbyking_174_X_Car_120A_Brushless_Car_ESC_sensored_sensorless_.html
(similar to that one, maybe an older version)

Programmed with a card. Braking is weak even at 100%, but pretty smooth. It makes a REALLY LOUD squeal in the motor on light braking, but is "normal" on harder braking. Generally it sounds louder than other ESCs. I have concerns about the noise, it's seriously loud. I checked it several times before even getting on the board. Still testing this one, but I think the noise will kill it for me.

*update* It's is LOUD, just moving forward. Brakes are soft, and squeally. The worst part is that it's doing something to reboot the wiiceiver and the other two ESCs don't do this. I've had this problem enough (plus the loudness and crappy brakes) that I will not be testing this ESC for duration etc -- I'm sure it's fine, but it's not anything I would recommend using.

HobbyWing EZRun 150: almost *exactly* the same as the HK. So noisy that I didn't even run it in the driveway. :( I double-checked the motor on my Flier, and that squeal / scream went away.


Of the 4, the cheapest is my "favourite."
 
please please please do not forget the hobbywing 150...

http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-ezrun-150a-pro-esc.html

real workhorse... takes a beating and rocks on... take of the fan and it does not care...
Brakes are a little soft on 50% and too hard at 75% but the acceleration is delicious...
 
Never heard anyone talk about this. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28371__Hobbyking_YEP_150A_2_6S_SBEC_Brushless_Speed_Controller.html
YEP 150

Specs read good.
 
is it a variable brake? The heli/plane brakes are usually light enough to make a rotor / prop slow down quickly, but not necesarily something you want to rely on to stop a 200# mass at 20mph.

I've done some more testing, and used an actual temp guage (which is excellent, btw). The flier runs hot, there is definitely something wrong with it. I may actually purchase a Favourite ESC to tide me over until I get the first few prototypes from vedder.
 
austindavid said:
is it a variable brake?
No, that's the point (my first e-board was with such a plane esc - and did not work, at all, either you activate the brake and loose coasting with a crying sound from the motor when throttle is in neutral position, or you deactivate brake and coast... so I moved that plane esc on my e-scooter which as mechanical brakes)
 
SPECS FOR YEP 150

• Adjustable F3A brake.
• 3 steps adjustable normal EMF brake
 
100A Dlux: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=20555

Running it in a scooter with a 6354-245 motor, 5s 10,000mah. Sits on the side, zip tied to a piece of angle aluminium in decent air flow, but never even gets warm, even when moving an adult rider plus pulling an adult longboarder behind. Motor has fan fitted, but overheated.

I was running this from a hall throttle and servo tester so can't say about brakes, but on stock settings it has a weird startup issue. It doesn't like a startup load, when throttled from stationary (and sometimes when rolling) it actively spins a turn or two, then brakes, spins, brake, etc.. This may be modifiable with the programming card but I didn't get it so not sure. Without the belt on it runs fine, but as soon as I put the belt on it happens, even with the wheel off the ground. So basically, users beware.

Edit: Should also mention that with the batteries unplugged, if you kick it to a decent speed it suddenly starts braking, and the switch light went on... So unless you unplug the motor, the controller acts in a regen sort of mode when the voltage gets high enough, so no good for kicking around without the motor switched on, if you ever do that anyway. Not sure if other controllers do this, just thought I would mention it.
 
bandaro said:
Should also mention that with the batteries unplugged, if you kick it to a decent speed it suddenly starts braking, and the switch light went on... So unless you unplug the motor, the controller acts in a regen sort of mode when the voltage gets high enough, so no good for kicking around without the motor switched on, if you ever do that anyway. Not sure if other controllers do this, just thought I would mention it.

Yeah, my HK ESC did this yesterday. I pretty much immediately tore it off the board. It made my unpowered skateboard into a brick, which breaks rules #1-2 -- an unpowered skateboard should JUST be a skateboard. Instead, I was pushing it about 100' and it decided to lock up and introduce me to the pavement.
 
austindavid said:
bandaro said:
Should also mention that with the batteries unplugged, if you kick it to a decent speed it suddenly starts braking, and the switch light went on... So unless you unplug the motor, the controller acts in a regen sort of mode when the voltage gets high enough, so no good for kicking around without the motor switched on, if you ever do that anyway. Not sure if other controllers do this, just thought I would mention it.

Yeah, my HK ESC did this yesterday. I pretty much immediately tore it off the board. It made my unpowered skateboard into a brick, which breaks rules #1-2 -- an unpowered skateboard should JUST be a skateboard. Instead, I was pushing it about 100' and it decided to lock up and introduce me to the pavement.

I've had that happen a few times. Not fun and totally unexpected LOL
 
austindavid said:
I have an EZRun on my bench, it'll go in tonight. Thank torqueboards, he's funding all this (or most of it).

Is there a good way to program it, apart from playing with the throttle?

I have a USB link and software for my EZrun. I think it was 8 bucks. Or you can get the program card for 5 bucks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INIX-USB-Link-programmable-Sensored-Sensorless-Brushless-ESC-speed-Controller-/151411524358?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2340d48306
 
I'm running a Flier twin 120A 8S ESC and it does get hot, generally fast but I never overheated it.
I have only run it on pavement with slight inclines and I weight a nice 190lb and the board weights 25lb.
I started to use a fan as I had room too add it easily so I guess that keeps it a little cooler. Regarding the motors they only get warm, that's it!

Austin is your Flier ESC a old one or a new one?
I got the ESC about 5 monthes ago but just know started to use it.
 
@BShady - Austin is referring to the batches that I've received previously.

Not sure, where you got yours and/or what it looks like.

Originally, I received quite a few good escs that didn't have any heating issues. The most recent batch had quite a bit of heating issues and the single gets hot real quick.

I've modified the next batch that is on it's way and the heating issue should be fixed but there's some odd issue as one of the first batches I received didn't get hot much if at all.

Could be an issue with the heatsink but shouldn't get that hot to begin with. Guess, we'll see sooner or later.
 
I got my Flier ESC from the company themselves.
I don't really understand what you are saying but do you mean you order batches of these ESC's?
 
BShady said:
Austin is your Flier ESC a old one or a new one?

I have an older twin, which runs cool. The newer single runs hot. Even when I run the twin on a single motor, after breaking a shaft or belt (twice), the twin just doesn't get very not, never as hot as the motor.
 
austindavid said:
BShady said:
Austin is your Flier ESC a old one or a new one?

I have an older twin, which runs cool. The newer single runs hot. Even when I run the twin on a single motor, after breaking a shaft or belt (twice), the twin just doesn't get very not, never as hot as the motor.

I guess my twin is like your single. it gets way hotter than the motor. I'll test for exact temperatures soon.

Is It possible to fix it?
 
BShady said:
I guess my twin is like your single. it gets way hotter than the motor. I'll test for exact temperatures soon.

Is It possible to fix it?

I should have a new set of ESCs coming which I added additional cooling onto the ESC which will hopefully fix the overheating issue. It's just odd for us because one of the first batches ran much cooler. Somehow, my most recent batch runs hot. The dual is ok but if you push it or try to full throttle. They seem easy to break. The single esc even more so.

Can't wait to test the new one out and hopefully it won't overheat and fry something. We also got some temperature guns to test it out as well. I'll go up some steep hills and test it out.

We've also added vent holes within our enclosure to let heat escape more. Previously, I didn't have to do this.
 
Just went for another ride this afternoon and the ESC got hot even with a fan on it. I was able to hold my hand on it for 5 seconds before it started to hurt. The motors were warm and I could have kept my hand there for hours.

I'm in Florida and today is was very hot! 91 degrees sunny and humid but don't think that it's a huge factor.

Going for another ride tonight for another 2.5 miles and let try it without the fan.
 
i changed my motor timing down from 20 to 15 and the slightly twicked the alignment of the chain. i took the board out for a ride on GRASS and i couldn't believe it the ESC didn't get hot it was just warm?? i rode a full 8 miles on grass at around 13mph and it was just warm!? no fan either.

i live in new york and it was a bit chilly you think that could have been why it stayed cool?

P.S. it was still hotter than the motors
 
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