ESC Settings Hobbyking SS 190/200 A

H

hjoore

1 mW
Joined
Apr 29, 2011
Messages
17
Location
Delft / Alphen NB, Netherlands
Hi guys,

I just completed my first friction bike stealthy prototype 1.
I use a Turnigy Aerodrive 63-54 motor, with a cheap HobbyKing SS 190/200 A brushless ESC and a 5S 8000mAh Zippy LiPo.
At first I had some problems with the ESC slipping electrically and screeching a lot, due to wrong standard settings.
You can download the Instruction manual for all those SUPPO Speed controllers here:

http://www.leaderhobby.com/img/menu/skywingESC50A-200A.pdf

After going through most of the options, here is my final setup:

Option 1: Cell type - auto * (*=factory setting)
Option 2: Throttle setting - 2.1 Auto Throttle Range *, and 2.4 Soft Acc(eleration)
Option 3: Brake Setting - 3.2 Soft Brake *
Option 4: Direction and Cutoff Type- 4.1: Clockwise Rotation*, and 4.4: Hard Cutoff ( just to make sure unbalanced cells don't get decharged too far)
These are the most important ones:
Option 5: Timing Mode Setting - 5.3 15deg For 10-14 Pole Outrunner Motors
Option 6: Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Setting - 6.2 16KHz For most outrunner motors

With these settings, my ESC doesn't run hot at all at 40km/h at 650 Watt,
but most importanty: it never slipped or screeched after these settings were used!! The motor now makes mini burnouts on the tire if I really push it at low speeds, thats power.

Share your own settings and experience with this ESC. For $29,99 its a steal!!

On to prototype 2! Fully aluminum this time.
 
Glad to hear its working well. Look forward to your continued progress.

I would suggest you change the ESC setting from soft brake to no brake. If you have your adjustment slightly out and the tire happens to be driving the motor continually when throttled off, you could burn the ESC out. :wink:
 
Great to hear it works well for you. Especially for $30.

Couple of questions.
1) Soft star:
- does it slow the start=up all the time. Some ESC only slow it when increasing the motor speed for zero. Then revert to instant throttle response if the motor is turning
2) Brake:
- why are you using the brake?
- I found that this just spits the motor out of the tire too quickly

Here are the settings I use for two different ESC on friciton drives:

Turnigy 85Amp ESC
Brake = Off
Battery = LiPo
LVC = High
Timing = High
Soft Accel = Start
Governer = Off
Switching Frequency = 16kHz
LV Cutoff = Reduce Power
Turnigy Super Brain 80A
LVC = 5 LiPo
Current Limit = Standard
Brake = No
Timing = High
Cutoff = Soft
Startup = Soft (May avoid need for ramp control)
Governer = Auto
PWM = 16kH
 
You guys are right, the soft start only works from zero throttle, but that is when you want smooth throttle when it starts meeting the wheel,
with a servo slow down module it would be a little smoother while its engaged.
I use the brake because if I don't, it won't disengage from the wheel, I think I have the locked mode just a tad more overcenter than you guys.
I tested it without brakes but the motor didn't come off the wheel like I wanted to.
The advantage of it is that it doesn't come off all the time, only when you really want to brake, its really smooth with throttle now.

Nice to see your settings too adrian! I was looking all over for decent e-bike ESC settings, which made me test it and find out myself.

Thanks masters! haha
 
by the way my motor never touches the wheel when its disengage so braking doesn't do anything at that point.
I have a single sided motor swingarm setup without any guide or anything, just a little rubber band, its great to witness torque and Newtons laws do their job :)
 
hjoore said:
I use the brake because if I don't, it won't disengage from the wheel, I think I have the locked mode just a tad more overcenter than you guys.
I tested it without brakes but the motor didn't come off the wheel like I wanted to.
The advantage of it is that it doesn't come off all the time, only when you really want to brake, its really smooth with throttle now.
Click to expand...

Ah. Of course yours goes overcenter.

I intentionally avoided doing this. So as long as the drive is applying load it stays engaged. When it is no longer doing anything it disengages. The main advantage is that it automatically reduces the amount of engagement when the power levels are low, which improves efficiency. Plus I don't have to worry about it getting stuck.
 
My version 1.5 friction drive is now working, without over-center locking and the bigger 63-74 motor and ramp control and hall twist throttle!!
This thing is so much fun! Acceleration with pedaling is insanely fast, power wheelies from 10-25 km/h and then to 42 km/h in a few seconds!
Up a hill with 36 km/h no fuss. With 600 Wh worth of LiPos, this thing really covers some distance. Monday I'll try to commute to my work, 31km away, then recharge during the day, and ride home again.
It will only cost 40 Euro cents of electricity instead of E6,- worth of gas! Still have to do lots of rides before I win back the investment costs...
 
Very cool to hear about another friction drive that can pull wheelies. I've almost ended up on my back a couple of times but no one ever believes me when I say mine can do it. I suppose I could upload a video but I got tired of defending friction drive at some point. :lol:

I noticed you said you are running 5s lipo. Was that a typo? My girlfriend's bike is running on 5s and while it's great for her, there's certainly no wheelie power.

Also, how did you wire the hall throttle to the servo tester? On my newest project I broke down and got a Magura pot twist throttle but it would be nice to be able to buy cheapo Chinese stuff for future builds.
 
Hey yeah its a 5S, it can't wheelie without pedaling, but with a little pedaling it can lift the front wheel, I haven't nailed it yet but will practice at it to make a nice video.
For the hall throttle, check the big post on <1 kg commuter booster, in the index on page 1 you can find how, I think its called servo tester mod. Basically, you just solder a little jumper wire from the middle leg of the potmeter to the top leg of the INPUT legs. It worked right away for me with a cheapo chinese hall throttle. Sorry to hear you broke the expensive magura! I'm glad I went for the hall throttle now!

A little update, I rode 35 km today with my new 4x 5S 5Ah Turnigy packs = 18.5V 20Ah = 370Wh, with an average of 37 km/h! thats 10.5 Wh/km I was amazed at how efficient it is!
It looks really professional now with a slide-on battery container made from some rectangular ventilation tube.
 
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