Ever solder batteries with a torch?

[Hummina Shadeeba]

Last time I tried soldering I used a medium sized tip at 715f and rosin filled solder and my wires were 10aug and after about 4 hours I felt poisoned by the fumes and my connections were huge and from what I read they are therefore likely bad. (Got a multimeter coming too)

Is it possible to find real lead solder anywhere? Sounds easier. And I'd rather try a torch this time

My connectors I want to put closer to the battery and the esc than what's on there...How risky is this for the battery or the esc?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42825__7mm_AS150_Anti_Spark_Self_Insulating_Gold_Bullet_Connector_2_Pairs_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40783__6mm_RCPROPLUS_Supra_X_Gold_Bullet_Polarised_Connectors_6_pairs_.html

Neither of these plugs require shrink wrap which is good for me because Id surely shrink it too soon.
Also at least one of these links to plugs are for 8-10aug and most of my wires are 12aug

I'm thinking of finding someone who's better at this. If u live in the Bay Area I'll buy u giant burgers, shakes and whatever else you can eat and 20$ if you give me a hand.

I've also opened my 4s packs and have exposed every part. I plan to get some type of silicon paste I can cover all the connections with and then reseal the batteries laying them 2x2 end to end. This way they're thinner. Will any silicon putty have enough resistance or should I go for something specific?

 

[amberwolf]

Ever solder batteries with a torch?

Yes. It was great fun when they exploded.

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

http://wn.com/torch_soldering_ec3-5_connectors

looks possibly safer since they dont heat the battery wires it seems.

the connectors Ive got coming i think I'll need to use an iron though since they have soldering "windows"

with the thick wire it takes a lot of heat to get the solder to flow into the wire and I thought since a torch was quicker it might be safer since the heat wont have as much time to spread.
you disagree

 

[liveforphysics]

Soldering cells is a fail, no matter how nice and electrically sound of a joint you end up with.

Bay area rocks. I don't want burgers or money, but I can help you if you can't find anyone else and don't mind driving to Santa Cruz.

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

thanks for offering but I wont get down there
i need to add connectors to the battery to fit my watt meter so i have to solder them. the soldered tabs that are on the battery leave me wondering how much heat they can take. the package says dont let them get above 120f. I was planning on adding the plugs pretty close to the cells but Im not sure how close is too close. maybe should be using connectors that allow sticking the bare battery wires into a pot of solder instead of requiring tinning or heating the wires in any other way. Was planning to use the connectors above to connect the batteries to the watt meter and then the antispark plugs from the watt meter to the esc.

 

[flat tire]

Since nobody answered you, you want 60 / 40 Pb/Sn solder. It should be easy to find even in California but I live in Texas so I really couldn't say.

You need to use a good flux and a really big iron to solder these easily. Both parts are 100% essential and cannot be skimped on. The hot part of the iron needs to be huge so it doesn't cool off much when heating the things to solder. You have to heat the surfaces you're trying to solder to the temperature that will melt the solder, and use THEM to melt the solder, not the iron. Also, keep your tip CLEAN and you will have much less trouble.

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

thanks. is it ok to make my battery leads a bit shorter when doing this or am I risking damaging the cells? I've seen some super short battery leads on "boat" lipos. I guess there's less space on a boat.
also the connectors I got above, some are the antispark but the others are intended for motor leads I think. will that be a problem using them on my batteries. they fit

 

[parabellum]

thanks. is it ok to make my battery leads a bit shorter when doing this or am I risking damaging the cells? I've seen some super short battery leads on "boat" lipos. I guess there's less space on a boat.
also the connectors I got above, some are the antispark but the others are intended for motor leads I think. will that be a problem using them on my batteries. they fit

Have used HK packs with 2" leads and always use torch to heat up the bullet connector and fill the cup with solder (holding upright) , then stick the wire in to liquid solder/ resin mix in the bullet cup. Wire just sucks half of that in, thinning itself. Advantage is, you do not have to clean the solder from the iron on bullets outside.

 

[Chalo]

Why would you apply heat to your batteries when you have any other alternatives available? Nothing good can come of it.

I solder Powerpoles and spade connectors after I've crimped them; I solder LEDs and other relatively heat-sensitive components--sometimes with pure indium or other low-MP solder. But I'd never heat a battery if I wanted to keep it in the long term. It's a capsule of very sensitive chemicals that are unstable by nature.

 

[flat tire]

Lithium batteries can get extremely warm under discharge. Plus have you seen how these cells are constructed? Proper soldering with quick, concentrated heat at the ends is not a huge deal.

 

[Hillhater]

there is a big difference between the 50-60 deg C that a cell might reach under discharge, ..and the 200+ deg C of molten solder.

 

[Hummina Shadeeba]

I'm wishing I'd gone with bullet connectors now but what do you think of using these with my batteries since theyre on the way:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40781__4mm_RCPROPLUS_Supra_X_Gold_Bullet_Polarised_Connectors_6_pairs_.html

I chose them because they have recessed contacts for both ends and I plan to put them on my battery and put them in series. seems an easy way to put them in series without using a harness.
I planned to string my (2) 4s packs together with them.
they have a soldering "window" so I think I'll have to heat the wires directly. But even when soldering with bullet connectors and making a puddle of solder in them and then sticking in the lead I imagine the wire would have to get hot enough to take up the solder? As it is now Im planning to cut the battery leads down to half their size (3inches) and put lots of rosin on them and solder through the window as intended. It may seem like I'm beating this question to death but I'd like to not ruin my batteries but also use these connectors because they will simplify my series connections. Please tell me what you think? yea or nea or

 

[motomech]

I use 4 mm bullets for all my serial Lipo battery connections.
Here's how I connect 4 mm bullets to 10 AWG.
Drill out the little ridge inside the red protector so you can slip over the 10 AWG.
Using flame type soldering tool(or even propane torch), fill reciever cup with molten solder.
Insert stripped wire in molten solder. Hold till solder sets.
Put extra 4 mm fitting in the one just soldered(Male into female or female into male).
Heat protector slightly and place fitting against hard surface and push protector in place.
Heat protector slightly and crimp in place.

 

[parabellum]

I use 4 mm bullets for all my serial Lipo battery connections.
Here's how I connect 4 mm bullets to 10 AWG.
Drill out the little ridge inside the red protector so you can slip over the 10 AWG.
Using flame type soldering tool(or even propane torch), fill reciever cup with molten solder.
Insert stripped wire in molten solder. Hold till solder sets.
Put extra 4 mm fitting in the one just soldered(Male into female or female into male).
Heat protector slightly and place fitting against hard surface and push protector in place.
Heat protector slightly and crimp in place.

Nice and detailed description of the process!