EVT 168 doesn't run

[Rony]

Hello,

I just got an EVT 168 electrical scooter, the seller told me it doesn't run. It is only 200km new.
When I turn on the key, I can see the lights and the sounds that tell me it is ready to run.
But when I try to open the trottle, I can just feel a little movement, like the motor turns only 5-10° and that's all. After it, nothing else happens. If I turn off and on the scooter, and try again I will just get this little "move".
Batteries level are good, and I checked the 48-12V transformer it is OK.
I checked the voltage level of the motor and I have a peak of volts only for a short time (0.1 - 0.2sec) when the motor moves, and nothing else.

What esle can I check ?

 

[AussieRider]

G'day Rony.
First isolate the fault to the motor or controller. It's probably the brushed motor ie: 2 wires. Does the wheel spin freely? If not it could be a seized bearing, jammed brushes or debris between stator & rotor. If ok, unplug the Anderson for the motor. You'll find it behind the right hand cover, green / white leads. Apply power to the motor, 12v is enough to see if it spins. Ok? Move to the controller. Measure voltage from the controller with no load. Still just a kick? Maybe try disconnecting the brake cutoffs.

AussieRider

 

[AussieRider]

Hey Roni.
Have you solved your problem with the 168 yet? If so, please share with the ES community. We're here to learn from each other. If not, where are you up to. I or someone else here may be able to help. There's a lot of talent at ES!

AussieRider

 

[Voltron]

Every time I've seen a motor do a partial turn and then stop it's been Hall sensor related. Either one burned out, or a wire got pinched. If you know how to use a volt meter, and have steady hands or an assistant, and you can get at the Hall wires plug, there should be 5ish volts on the red and black with the scooter turned on, then if you stay on the red and probe the blue, green and green one at a time as you turn the motor wheel, there should be pulses of 5ish volts as the wheel turns. If not, the Halls or the wires have a problem. If you can't get at the plug while it's powered up, you can wire up a couple of AA batteries or a modified 5v USB charger as a power source for the sensor test.

 

[amberwolf]

If you can't get at the plug while it's powered up, you can wire up a couple of AA batteries or a modified 5v USB charger as a power source for the sensor test.

If you do this you'll also need a resistor (1kohm to 10kohm works) to go from the 5v to the signal wire under test, because unless there are pullup resistors inside the motor on the halls (haven't ever seen them built this way yet), the signal won't change much, if at all, from zero, because hall sensors in motors only ground the signal line when active, they dont' output any voltage.

If there's no pullup from the signal to a supply voltage, the signal is not reliably detectable as a voltage.

You *can* instead use a small resistor in series with a small LED, (resistor calculated to give about the right current for the LED to light at the supply voltage for the halls. Connect the resistor end to the hall 5v, and then connect the negative end of the LED to each signal in turn. While it's connected to one, rotate the motor (either way if it's a DD motor, reverse if it's geared). The LED will blink on and off as the motor turns if it's working. It'll remain either off or on or in some partially-on state if that hall is not working.