Wind82 said:
Never buy these from eBay, always check Alibaba and talk to the manufacture first. This bike is 95% the same as the bike i am building now . You can buy that same bike minus the color for around 1400 usd before shipping , the battery is about 400 more. If you buy from the builder you can buy the full bike or buy the parts you need, for example i got the frame and burner rpc shock for around $360 shipped .
I tried to convey early on that I was rolling the dice on this
turn-key option as I simply don't have the time to piece something together. I know I could build something similar for cheaper. Building frame up, it's actually better to get the legit Qulbix 76 frame cost and support wise. Actual suspension that works, a hub motor per the specific needs of the rider, and a cycle analyst over a generic Chinese LCD are all great reasons to build from the ground up. For me, it was either this or some sort of HPC or Stealth from a local vendor. I just wanted something I could hop on and ride. :wink:
Anyhow, I haven't been able to ride as much as I wanted. Due to my work situation, I'm only able to commute with it 3 days a week max. I charge it every other week with 35 miles on the trip. The bike can go significantly further, but you can tell it's not as spunky as it is hot off the charger. I was going to wait on updating this thread until I did a one way ride from Los Angeles to Orange County, but I have no idea when that's ever going to happen. I do have about 175 miles on my odometer though, so I do have a good idea how this bike performs overall.

As a turn-key option, I couldn't be happier. As I stated before, there are little things that irk me, but that's normal for someone who builds their bikes up from the frame up. The LCD display is a bit complicated to use, but the vendor did send me a manual for a comparable display which helped out a lot. There is a cruise control setting that I haven't figured out how to turn off yet. I've gotten used to it, and it's actually quite handy on those long straightaways.
I did get a flat a couple of weeks ago in the rear tire. It was a slow leak that would leave the tire flat in a couple of hours. For the life of me, I could not find any punctures. I didn't think flipping the bike onto the handlebars was the best option, and it was just way too heavy to put on my stand. I was loosening the allen bolts that pinch down on the axle then just thought... why not just put in some tubeless sealant. I had used it in the past to fix many tubed slow leaks, so I just injected the recommended amount for a high volume tire, and it's been holding good pressure since. I'll revisit this dilemma once my rear rear tire is bald. :lol:
I'm curious what methods people with these monster e-bikes use for tire swaps or fix flats. That's definitely something I miss about all the mid-drives I've had. They were all light enough to flip, and having a rear QR axle was so convenient. Since I ride primarily for commuting my rear tire nubs are getting eating down pretty quick, so I'll have to deal with this sooner than later. :?