eZee, Hebb, Pathfinder service manuals & repair resources

jateureka

jateureka

10 kW
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Messages
824
Location
Brisbane, QLD Australia
Just wanting to list info for eZee, Hebb and Pathfinder in one place for future reference.

Manufacturer's web site http://www.ezeebike.com/eZeebike.htm
If you scroll down the page you can download the eZee Sprint user manual on the left hand side.
NOTE the diagnostic LED located on the controller (near the key switch) should be steady to indicate no faults when the throttle switch is ON If the throttle switch is off then you may see the LED blink 3 times, but this is not a brake sensor or throttle fault.

The eZee kit installation manual from Renaissance Bicycle Co can be downloaded here http://www.ebikes.ca/store/ezee_manual_V20.pdf

The eZee service manual can be downloaded here http://site.nycewheels.com/manuals/eZeebike/Service-Manual.pdf
NYCE wheels also have the owners manual and kit installation manual here http://www.nycewheels.com/ezeebike-support.html

Other Tech info like how to disable Pedelec to get throttle only control here http://www.nycewheels.com/troubleshooting-ezeebike.html Note that some models may already be fitted with jumper connectors housed inside yellow heatshrink, in this case carefully cut away the heatshrink, connect the connectors with the single yellow wire and re-cover with heatshrink.

Hebb have a more detailed service manual here http://www.hebbebikes.com/pdf/Hebb-ebike-EG500-Service-Manual.pdf
also available from http://www.bicyclecenterofseattle.com/catalogs/HEBB_HEBB_EG500_Technical_Service_Manual.pdf
 
Please feel free to add your own tech tips/notes!

eZee Sprint step-through model tips:

Threaded fork is 1 1/8" and takes a 25.2mm diameter alloy adjustable stem requiring a 6mm Allen key to adjust height and headset requires a 36mm headset wrench to adjust.

Handlebars are alloy 22.2mm diameter. 25.4mm at clamp

Seat post is 28.5mm diameter with QR and flip-up seat for battery access

Front wheel refitting, due to motor cable protector, requires a 19mm crows foot adapter with a torque wrench set to 35Nm OR use an ordinary wrench/spanner with a known weight attached at a specified distance to achieve a force of 357 kg/cm = 35.7kg/10cm = 23.8kg/15cm, 17.85kg/20cm, etc.

Rear wheel refitting requires 15mm deep socket (or crows foot) for torque wrench, set to between 30 and 45Nm refer Shimano tech docs for Nexus 8Spd. I tend to use the same torque setting as the front wheel.

The front disc brake caliper is a Shimano cable operated unit. The brake pad inner adjustment requires a cut down 3mm Allen key, because you can't reach the adjuster through the wheel spokes due to the hub motor, otherwise you have to remove the calliper, adjust a little and refit to test. I cut an Allen key so that it is only 8mm wide overall and this works for me.
 
Thanks for the info!
 
No problem. If you have any service tips to add then please feel free to post them.

Ezee controller removal:
Follow the instructions in the service manual.
If you find the controller cable glands are hitting the frame and preventing removal then loosen the battery holder tray: 2 screws on the rear side at the top use Philips and 8mm spanner: 4 screws in base use Philips.
Note: the battery holder tray may be fitted with shims, to square up the battery holder on the bike, between the base plate and the frame plate near the 2 rear base plate screws. If the battery key does not switch ON after controller installation then you may have to fine tune the shims.
 
A link to ypedal's page detailing slipping motor ring gear and his fix. http://www.ypedal.com/ezee.htm
 
Link to the Pedelec forum eZee FAQ http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/ezee-faqs/
 
5 Blinks on controller diagnostic LED and no motor movement when throttle is turned.

Check the battery indicator on the handlebar, only one LED should be lit at a time (e.g. green on RHS for a charged battery). If more than one LED is lit at the same time (red, yellow, green or red, yellow) then it's likely the battery indicator is faulty. Check by unplugging the throttle - if no change then Battery indicator is faulty.

EDIT: this refers to the GEN I version that only had 3 LED's in the battery gauge.

The Gen II version has 5 LEDs for the battery gauge and 5 levels of pedal assist
 
Motor Hall Sensor problems causing intermittent cutting out of motor may be indicated by 8 blinks (or sometimes 6 + 2 blinks or 3 + 5 blinks) on the controller diagnostic LED. Sometimes you can get the motor to run again by rolling the wheel backwards.

Some more information here http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=36819&p=674846
SHows some faulty solder joints for the green and blue signal wires on the main hall sensor PCB. This has happened on a motor I repaired that was date stamped 2010. Controller was blinking 3 + 5 times = 8. This repair can be done without removing the windings from the axle/magnet bowl assembly, provided the hall sensors themselves are OK.

and here discusses fault symptoms http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=45062

The other fault for the hall sensor could be the connectors between the motor and the main wiring harness. Check the connectors at the fork junction box and make sure all 5 wires to each connector are fully seated and in good condition. try wiggling the cable while testing the motor to see if it is an intermittent connection.
 
If your ezee bike is cutting out and the diagnostic LED on the controller is not lit when this happens then you need to trace the power supply from the battery to the controller:

Check this post for measuring battery voltages and tracing the circuit battery contacts and switch http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=39149


Also, the round glass 30A 3AG fuse holder on the side of the ezee battery case can develope a high resistance/poor contact. If you press on the holder it may be hot to touch and you may find that the controller LED will now light up. If you unscrew the fuse, this will show up on the metal fuse holder as discolouration (blue/black) and the spring may be brittle/weak.

You can replace the fuse holder and fuse, but I have not seen any 3AG panel mount holders rated for 20A/36Vdc nominal use.
One modification is to bypass the glass fuse holder and fit an internal auto blade fuse holder (as used for the battery charger input) or use a resettable circuit breaker.

photos showing the inside of the battery case and the fuses http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&p=645107#p645107

More photos of the eZee battery and testing capacity http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=37398

Battery discharge graphs in this thread http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=38730&start=15
 
Most of the FAQ over at the Pedelecs Forum deal with de-restricting" the speed limiters dictated by their stupid speed laws. Poor souls.

Does any know if the Ezee uses separate seals on the axle like the BMC?
 
Have a look in the workshop manual (linked in top post), but I don't recall seeing any seals as such but it does use sealed bearings.
The manual also talks about sealing around the cable, where it exits the axle, with silicone sealant.

UPDATE:
Yes on the motor I pulled apart to repair the hall sensor solder joints there were dust seals that were similar to motorcycle fork seals on the axle.
 
People have sucsessfully run the eZee motors on other after market controllers:
Ananda 36V15A soft start hall sensor controller
infineon 20A controller 700C Commuter http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45780
KU60, 17A Controller 700C front hub motor http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45570 *** I'm a little skeptical 12FET lyen Infineon controller, but not smoothly https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php? f=2&t=74370
Phaserunner controller from Grin works on rear ezee motor https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=83866
BMSBattery KU93 high speed controller works for D8vehhttps://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=88394
S12P controller worked https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=81637
Elifebike controller 20-25A 9FET version on Ezee rear motor wheel

Some controllers people tried that did not work on eZee motor:
KU123 http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44277&p=669608#p669608
another KU123 in sensorless mode https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=64566
Infineon 6FET from ecrazyman on sensorless mode at 36V was drawing 1.7A at 40kph unloaded but on the road test it either groaned or squealed until it got up over 10kph. Same thing with a KU63 high speed sensorless controller.
S12SH controller issues https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=74413
S12SH controller not working correctly https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=81637
Elifebike controller by motomech https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=83076 *** I believe he got this to work?
 
photos and links to help with motor dis-assembly in this thread.
wiring should be held in place with RTV silicon or other adhesive to prevent rubbing on the inside of the motor case.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=55053

NOTE: on this type of motor the magnet bowl is fixed to the axle = do not use a 3-jaw puller to try and remove the magnet bowl or you will damage it.
 
If you are having trouble removing the magnet bowl from the stator then double check the axle circlip and keyway slots. These may have been deformed with use and be preventing the magnet bowl from coming off easily. You may be able to dress any deformity slightly with some emery paper or a fine file.
If you try and force the magnet bowl off with the gear puller then you may bend the bowl as the large cut-outs for weight reduction make it more suceptible to flexing.

EDIT: some eZee motros have the magnet bowl as a press fit onto the axle!
On these version to gain access to the hall sensors for repair /replacement you need to remove the motor windings from the axle instead of the magnet bowl.
 
motomech said:
Does any know if the Ezee uses separate seals on the axle like the BMC?
Click to expand...

Yes, I just did a hall sensor repair and bearing replacement on one stamped as 2010 and it has 6903Z case bearings with seperate seals on the outside of these. The seals were a bit like fork seals in that they were U shaped with a spring inside.
 
Thanks for that cyclezee!

Ezee Sprint centre stand bolt has very limited access due to the controller and mudguard. You can NOT get a standard 8mm Allen Hex key in there. I did not want to have to remove the controller just to replace a centrestand so spent some time to come up with a way to remove it. I used an 8mm Allen hex key bit from a screwdriver set and then slipped an 8mm ring spanner over the part of the bit sitting out of the Allen hex screw.
 

Attachments

  • Ezee Sprint centre stand removal 6.jpg
    Ezee Sprint centre stand removal 6.jpg
    27.7 KB · Views: 5,459
  • ezee sprint centre stand removal 9.jpg
    ezee sprint centre stand removal 9.jpg
    61.4 KB · Views: 2,388
I have a GEN I Ezee Sprint that has an intermittent fault where the motor stops working, the red LED on the controller goes from being ON to dim and/or flashes very quickly then goes out altogether. The battery gauge red LED is lit to indicate low voltage on the battery and the tail light is still ON, but not quite as bright.

I checked the battery & it had over 40V with a 7 amp load connected. I then tried the bike with another battery and the same thing happened - loss of power, no LED lit on controller and red LED lit on battery gauge. So this tends to suggest the fault is no the battery.

If it was a faulty key switch or bad connection between the battery and the controller I would not expect to see the red LED lit on the battery gauge or the tail light to come on.

(The owner was using a D shackle lock around the forks at the headtube and damaged the headlight and associated wiring.)


Anyone else had this fault?
 
I have done a bit more testing on this faulty Sprint. I connected the battery directly to the controller, bypassing the key switch and battery base plate, and the same thing happened.
I did manage to observe a fault code this time of 6 blinks, which means low voltage, but there was 39V at the input to the controller so it seems that the controller is faulty.

UPDATE: replacing the controller fixed the problem.
It seems that when the owner damaged the headlight and wires this in turn damaged the AUX power output circuit in the controller.
 
I have a GEN II Ezee Sprint that has an intermittent fault where by sometimes it does not allow you to select the level of power assist as indicated by the 5 blue LEDs on the display - pressing the up arrow does not light up any of the blue LEDs, so the motor does not work.

Sometimes if you leave it sit there for a while then 1 blue LED will come on by itself and then the motor will work and pressing the up arrow then works to increase the assist until all 5 blue LEDs are lit.

This Sprint also had damaged the headlight wires, but disconnecting the headlight did not fix the problem. The controller diagnostic red LED is lit and does not show any fault codes.

Anybody had this fault?
 
Replacing the PAS selector / Battery display keypad fixed the problem.
 
Currently working on an Ezee Sprint where the controller intermittently gives 12 blinks and the motor electrics don't work. The manual says 12 blinks is a fault in the controller and to replace the controller. Unfortunately there are no more Gen I controllers available from the Australian distributor, so the advise I was given was to upgrade to Gen II, but the connectors are not compatible and neither is the display, so this ends up being a lot of work & expense.

I thought I could replace the Ezee controller with an after market one so I tried a 6FET ecrazymen controller and this worked OK while in the test stand running off 36V nominal battery the 26" motor wheel gave a no load maximum speed of 40kph with 1.7A draw. The road test failed though as it either groaned or squealed until it got up to 10kph then it ran fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E-HP
    • Like
DIY Newb FAQ?
2
Replies
30
Views
9,931
Low-and-Slow
L
jateureka
Wisper service and repair information
Replies
1
Views
816
jateureka
jateureka
A
eZee Powered T W Bents Recumbent Trike
Replies
2
Views
1,766
Aldby
A
Back
Top