ezip motor style bike kit

Looks like a modified "Currie/Uspd" in operation. Mounts on your bikes existing chain side and includes a new chain loop.

The motor mounts on the right side of the rear triangle, and I would guess drives the rear wheel thru a motor linked to either your existing highest or lowest gear on the back cluster. your pedals loose access to that gear, and have one less gear for you to use. It is not a variable gear ratio system. Hopefully it is clutched so when off, it freewheels.

Maybe the front chainring links to this motor, but I doubt it, its too close to the rear cluster? And would negate a triple front chainring.

all that being said, it might work for the price. Be aware that it will perform somewhat like a hub motor, not a cyclone, but you can change some performance characteristics by using different rear cluster ratios.

Might be interesting.

d
 
Pix indicate they provide another freewheel and a longer axle. They also provide a BB cup to attach the new freewheel to the existing freewheel. The dropouts would need to be spread.

Oddly, they do not show the extra freewheel installed, but the chain on the original cluster. :?

Pricewise, not a bad deal.
 
On the plus side, anything that is interfaced to accept common TNC-style motors have an existing selection of parts for upgrading to.

On the downside I think when I would be pedaling, my right heel would occasionally hit the motor. Thats one of the several reasons I saved info on MUD's BMX-drive to a rear disc brake flanged hub (places motor in a position farthest from the ground and my heel), though I would like a freewheel built into the tan-colored pulley:
 

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kefa said:
been thinking of building a non-hub motor ebike.

i saw cammy_cc selling these kits on ebay, seems like a pretty good price.

24v 250w Mini Motorcycles Scooter DIY Bicycle Kit Power
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180434971206&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

looks like an ezip motor rip off. i haven't seen a kit like this before, has anyone else? i wonder if it would be any good.
Click to expand...


Go here and build your own kit of less and you can up the motor to a 450w too. Do your homework and you should find just about everythhing in that kit right on one page and as I said for less. Of course you won't find the battery bag though. But I'm sure you can find one somewhere and the bigger motor will make you much happier then that 250w.

http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?type=ES
 
I totaled up the similar parts from TNC and Monster... it was only ~$50 less before shipping; no longer axle and no BBcup (two oddball parts to find).

The Cammy kit will take some work to install and align. Perhaps not as much as a Cyclone kit.

Changing a flat will be slightly more complicated with two chains to tension.
 
TylerDurden said:
I totaled up the similar parts from TNC and Monster... it was only ~$50 less before shipping; no longer axle and no BBcup (two oddball parts to find).

The Cammy kit will take some work to install and align. Perhaps not as much as a Cyclone kit.

Changing a flat will be slightly more complicated with two chains to tension.
Click to expand...

Well I didn't do the math nor do I know what "oddball parts" your talking about. The only thing that is somewhat hard to find is a crank freewheel assembly but even that's not that hard. But in any case my point wasn't totally hinged on the bottom line price. It was to upgrade to the 450w motor. So even at the same cost I would go for the 450w any day. However, for not much more this is available. I don't think it includes the brake interlocks but a set of those are 10 to 20 bucks. So again to me this is a better deal. And if you through in 25 bucks more you can upgrade further to a 24v/36v and put out 900w. These kits have a much better motor mounting (copy of the Currie EZIp) and are a lot easier to install too. Not to mention they include a new rim and hub sprocking.

http://www.evparts.com/prod-SK8501.htm
http://www.evparts.com/prod-SK8503.htm
 
It is confusing; but if you closely examine the Cammy kit, you might notice they do not supply the freewheeling cranks like Cyclone... they supply parts for 'stacking' freewheels at the rear. That is why they include a bottom-bracket cup and a longer axle for the rear. (Those are both somewhat oddball.)

So, as dumbass points out, you can get most of the kit for about the same price @ 450W: but you need to get some parts from TNC, some from Monster, and the two oddball parts are go-fish.

The evparts complete wheel setups seem quite reasonable, compared to some of their other offers.
 
TylerDurden said:
It is confusing; but if you closely examine the Cammy kit, you might notice they do not supply the freewheeling cranks like Cyclone... they supply parts for 'stacking' freewheels at the rear. That is why they include a bottom-bracket cup and a longer axle for the rear. (Those are both somewhat oddball.)

So, as dumbass points out, you can get most of the kit for about the same price @ 450W: but you need to get some parts from TNC, some from Monster, and the two oddball parts are go-fish.

The evparts complete wheel setups seem quite reasonable, compared to some of their other offers.
Click to expand...

One of the interesting things I see is that they include a battery charger, key lock and a power indicator (All of which can be nice to have). In the case of a Currie setup the motor is mounted on the left side and is a direct drive to the axle. With this kit it is also a direct drive to the axle but it's on the right side with the chaining system. I have a few Curries and plan on remounting my motor on the right side but I will take advantage of the gear system. this kit however, does not do that. So why mount the motor on the right side?

If I were looking for a inexpensive kit setup I would still put my money in the EV 24v/36v setup. I like to option to upgrade down the road if I decide I want more power and/or speed. And the cost is cheap.
 
dumbass said:
... I will take advantage of the gear system. this kit however, does not do that. So why mount the motor on the right side?
Click to expand...
So they don't have to supply a new hub (or wheel), and it's also cheaper/fewer parts than a Cyclone kit. Remember, they're paying for the shipping. (I bet all the stuff fits in the bag.)

You get what ya pay for...

It ain't a bad deal; but not my first pick either.
 
TylerDurden said:
dumbass said:
... I will take advantage of the gear system. this kit however, does not do that. So why mount the motor on the right side?
Click to expand...
So they don't have to supply a new hub (or wheel), and it's also cheaper/fewer parts than a Cyclone kit. Remember, they're paying for the shipping. (I bet all the stuff fits in the bag.)

You get what ya pay for...

It ain't a bad deal; but not my first pick either.
Click to expand...

The Currie bike (stock from the manufacture) has the motor on the left side of the bike and is a direct drive to the rear wheel. Remember your chaining gears are on the right side of the bike. Therefore, it does not take advantage on the gearing. The kits as shown on Ebay look like they are mounting the motor on the right side with the gearing but are not in any way connected to the gearing. They are using a second freewheel gear that is again a direct drive bck to the motor. therefore, it again does not take advantage of the gearing at anytime.
 
.[/quote]

The Currie bike (stock from the manufacture) has the motor on the left side of the bike and is a direct drive to the rear wheel. Remember your chaining gears are on the right side of the bike. Therefore, it does not take advantage on the gearing. The kits as shown on Ebay look like they are mounting the motor on the right side with the gearing but are not in any way connected to the gearing. They are using a second freewheel gear that is again a direct drive bck to the motor. therefore, it again does not take advantage of the gearing at anytime.[/quote]

PS.. this summer Toys R Us was selling the Currie complete bike for $240 in mens or womens. It included the bike, motor kit mounted and a cheap SLA battery pack. The motor is a 450w 24v. You can normally buy them for under $300 at Wall Mart, Ebay and other locations. This is not much more then for this kit and you still have to add a battery. So in the end unless your really in love with the bike you are going to mount it on it's not a great deal for you. Lets say you are in love with your current bike.......so but tyhe Currie bike and trasplant the drive system to your current bike. In the end you will have a better system. By the way the Currie bikes come with a GREAT warranty too. 100% anything that happens to it for 6 months except the batteries are only 30 or 90 days. That's because people are stupid and run the Batteries into the ground and then claim they were no good.

You can also buy the conversion kit from Currie including a 450w 24v motor, battery, charger, a really cool battery rack for the bake of the bike and everythign you need to make a complete conversion for $299 from Currie and it's again warrantied for 6 months. But again check Wall Mart online and get the whole bike for $300. By the way Currie bike are actually a low end Schwinn manufactured bike.
 
You can also buy the conversion kit from Currie including a 450w 24v motor, battery, charger, a really cool battery rack for the bake of the bike and everythign you need to make a complete conversion for $299 from Currie and it's again warrantied for 6 months. But again check Wall Mart online and get the whole bike for $300. By the way Currie bike are actually a low end Schwinn manufactured bike.[/quote]

I just looked at Wallie World online bikes and the low end EZip bike are not $399 but ch eck this place out. Looks like great deals but I didn't check the S/H charge.

http://www.kingsmotorbikes.com/izip_electric_bicycles_izip_bicycles_izip_hybrid_bicycles.html?scart_affiliate_id=72
 
I think Tyler has it right. They are just trying to save the cost of a new wheel that includes a hub with freewheel threads on both sides

But giving up the bike's highest gear or spreading the dropouts enough to add an additional freewheel doesn't sound good to me. I guess if you had a freehub you could take off the biggest sprocket and add another small one on the outside for the motor chain. You could even play with the number of teeth on the added sprocket to trade off for more speed or more torque. It looks like the kit presently has motor to wheel close to 1:1.

For a cheap utility ebike that may make sense. Granted, it's only $41 more for the evparts kit, but how good is the wheel? My Currie wheel's hub only lasted 3,000 miles. With the cc kit you'd have your own "good" wheel. I had to spend $150 plus for parts to build a replacement back wheel for my "utility" eZip. The double ended hub was the major expense.
 
donob08 said:
I think Tyler has it right. They are just trying to save the cost of a new wheel that includes a hub with freewheel threads on both sides

But giving up the bike's highest gear or spreading the dropouts enough to add an additional freewheel doesn't sound good to me. I guess if you had a freehub you could take off the biggest sprocket and add another small one on the outside for the motor chain. You could even play with the number of teeth on the added sprocket to trade off for more speed or more torque. It looks like the kit presently has motor to wheel close to 1:1.

For a cheap utility ebike that may make sense. Granted, it's only $41 more for the evparts kit, but how good is the wheel? My Currie wheel's hub only lasted 3,000 miles. With the cc kit you'd have your own "good" wheel. I had to spend $150 plus for parts to build a replacement back wheel for my "utility" eZip. The double ended hub was the major expense.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've said it many times the EZip is a Cheap Schwinn with a motor. But I have read a lot of post of guy going 3000 to 5000 miles on them with no major problems (except for batteries). But it is a crap shoot anytime you buy a low end bike or motor kit and lets face it that'sw whay we are talking about here. Most people aren't going to mount a cheapy motor kit on a high end bike. They mostly mount them on Wallie world bikes that cost $100 to $200. So those bikes aren't any better then the Ezip is. But with the EZip you at least have a package that you know is going to work. Even if only for 3 to 5 thousand miles. But lets face it do you really think your spending $150 after 3000 miles was so bad (assuming that's all you had to repair)?

I myself have a Nuvinci rear hub that I hope to be stealing off my Wallie World bike to install on my EZip this winter. I hope to drive it with twin 450w motors through the shift system but seperate of the crank. Bottom line once you get the E BUG" most people tend to want more, better, faster and further distance.
 
You can buy the Currie kit from the superkids for $279.95 with free shipping. That's the vendor I bought mine from this summer. The Currie kit is much nicer than the knockoff being sold on e-bay and not much more expensive. I image the install on the knock off is not very smooth. In addition, you're looking at a much less powerful motor. Not worth it, in my opinion. I'm surprised the vendor's ratings are so high. I've read enough complaints about the batteries she sells.
 
nwmtnbiker said:
You can buy the Currie kit from the superkids for $279.95 with free shipping. That's the vendor I bought mine from this summer. The Currie kit is much nicer than the knockoff being sold on e-bay and not much more expensive. I image the install on the knock off is not very smooth. In addition, you're looking at a much less powerful motor. Not worth it, in my opinion. I'm surprised the vendor's ratings are so high. I've read enough complaints about the batteries she sells.
Click to expand...

Great fine and remember that cheap kit doesn't come with any batteries (not that the Currie batteries are anything to brag about but something is a lot betther then nothing and they will last a year or two and maybe more).
 
Dumbass,
I have a trike with a nuvinci on it and will be using http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106130 inline. My question is what size sprocket would be best with this motor. Right now I have a 16t on it but can go up to 22t. Also the front ring has 48t and has a range of 44t-54t available. Any help would be great. I love the hub and with the right e setup it should climb hills like a monster. I am not out for speed but hill climbing. I can pedal on the flat, but in Pittsburgh the Hills are LARGE. A little help will be nice.
Thanks for any help
 
KAZUALT said:
Dumbass,
I have a trike with a nuvinci on it and will be using http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106130 inline. My question is what size sprocket would be best with this motor. Right now I have a 16t on it but can go up to 22t. Also the front ring has 48t and has a range of 44t-54t available. Any help would be great. I love the hub and with the right e setup it should climb hills like a monster. I am not out for speed but hill climbing. I can pedal on the flat, but in Pittsburgh the Hills are LARGE. A little help will be nice.
Thanks for any help
Click to expand...

To be honest that's one of the things I will be testing when I start my rebuild in an few weeks. The hub I am going to use is currently mounted on my other bike. That bike has a Cyclone 360w motor. The motor is mounted behind the crank sprocket and drives through the crank. The motor runs at 350 RPM and has a 14t freewheel pulling the 44t crank that drives the Nuvinci 19t sprocket. So the way I figure it 350 * 14t =4900 TPM / by the 19t Nuvinchi sprocket = 258 RPM of the rear wheel which is 6.74'c or 1739' per minute * 60 minutes / 5280 feet per mile = 19.76 MPH. Now with peddle assist I can only get about 22 MPH out of this bike. But in pre-Nuvinci I got much more (26 to 28MPH). So one of the thing I want to determine is exactly where is the 1:1 ratio on the Nuvinci. I would have thought is would be at center point giving 175% up and 175% down from the 1:1 point. But it doesn't seem to be the case. It seems to be 1:1 at top end of the shifter.

My problem is I am starting over from scratch using a different bike, motors. Motor speeds and motor mounting methods which will require additional gearing. So like you I will be calculating and test.
 
Dumbass,
There is alot more info about NuVinci Hubs on Sheldon Browns site http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/internal.html . Also the Recumbent Trike Forum http://www.thertr.com/forum has alot of folks that use the hub. It is great to use on trikes. I have seen posts that the one problem with Nuvinci's are that the 1:1 ratio is high. Thanks for the formula so well explained. It will help me greatly figuring out what freewheel t size to use to use. I now know the rpm I have coming from the motor after gearing is 420rpm. I was searching for a larger freewheel and found a 27t that is made for nuvinci hubs here http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=3274 . Using this will put me right at the edge of what will work. I will be changing out the front ring to a lower t value if needed. Which will be a wait and see. No sense changing it till I have to. After lots of post reading I think I have a grasp now on a diy. The total cost savings is enough to justify one &^%@ of a battery. That makes putting the motor inline without anymore gearing needed.
Thanks
KAZUALT
 
KAZUALT said:
Dumbass,
There is alot more info about NuVinci Hubs on Sheldon Browns site http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/internal.html . Also the Recumbent Trike Forum http://www.thertr.com/forum has alot of folks that use the hub. It is great to use on trikes. I have seen posts that the one problem with Nuvinci's are that the 1:1 ratio is high. Thanks for the formula so well explained. It will help me greatly figuring out what freewheel t size to use to use. I now know the rpm I have coming from the motor after gearing is 420rpm. I was searching for a larger freewheel and found a 27t that is made for nuvinci hubs here http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=3274 . Using this will put me right at the edge of what will work. I will be changing out the front ring to a lower t value if needed. Which will be a wait and see. No sense changing it till I have to. After lots of post reading I think I have a grasp now on a diy. The total cost savings is enough to justify one &^%@ of a battery. That makes putting the motor inline without anymore gearing needed.
Thanks
KAZUALT
Click to expand...

OK, I did a crude test this evening to determine exactly where the ratio is at the lowest setting and the highest setting. At the lowest setting the hub sprocket turns 2 full turns for 1 full turn of the wheel. In high the wheel turned 1 1/2 turns for 1 turn of the sprocket or about .66 turns of the sprocket for 1 turn of the wheel. As you may already know Nuvinci claims a 375% ratio range. Based on my crude test it is very close. I may not have my twist control setup to maximize the range. Knowing the final range will be important for both of us to cerrectly calculate our sprockets. Hope this crude info helps you select your gearing.
 
Right I do remember reading the 375 stat. Since I am not using a cyclone motor I can not find a freewheel for the motor I will be using. So unless I figure out a way to increase the motor shafts diameter, 10mm now need 20mm, I will be using the 27T NuVinci freewheel and th 11T Sprocket on the motor. THat should give me a good gear range for the motor to stay at peak eff. . But I will be still wait to see your results before I take the plunge.
KAZUALT
 
KAZUALT said:
Right I do remember reading the 375 stat. Since I am not using a cyclone motor I can not find a freewheel for the motor I will be using. So unless I figure out a way to increase the motor shafts diameter, 10mm now need 20mm, I will be using the 27T NuVinci freewheel and th 11T Sprocket on the motor. THat should give me a good gear range for the motor to stay at peak eff. . But I will be still wait to see your results before I take the plunge.
KAZUALT
Click to expand...

Like you finding a freewheel even using an adaptor is a problem. I am not exactly sure how I am going to proceed yet but I can say it will be a wook in progress for several months. It's a spare time project and parts ordering is always slow. But in the end I'm confident I'll make it all work. I wish I could find a controler and throttle that could run 2 brushed 24v motors. I would really like the option of running one or the other or both at the same time.
 
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