chuyskywalker
🚴♂️ Mega poster
No progress on the battery yet; likely not till the weekend.
Modeled up a bracket for the display and mounted it:
I'm wiring in an LTE-GPS unit as well. You directly connect it to constant battery, and you also wire it to a positive voltage when the vehicle is "on". With the active/inactive state knowledge, the unit can slow down updates, activate a "bump alert" text alarm, and since the little unit has a built in battery, can even text me when the battery gets disconnected. When it goes active, it picks up GPS faster and stops the "theft" notices. (Technically, it also has a relay you can activate remotely allowing you to do something like apply the high/low brakes if it's stolen and still connected. Neat.)
Now, while the voltage range on the device is awesome (9-100v), it's just a bit shy of the battery voltage for the bike (110v). First I tried to salvage a 120v AC wall wort into this role, which did step down the 110v DC power to 12v...but it also created an isolate ground. This means when the bike's primary DCDC turns on and provides 12v to the accessory wire on the unit, the unit can't get a voltage reading from the ground for power and this unconnected 12v. Learned something new though!
So I picked up an itty bitty dcdc step down that can handle up to 120v and steps down to 12v (the battery charged will be about 110v) with a more common buck converter keeping the same ground.
Just model pictures -- I installed it before snaps.
Wired up the brake inputs so that they trigger the brake high while supplying 12v to the rear light for active braking lights. Configured some very basic regen tuning in the app.
And... well, aside from the battery, that's all the wiring! I zipped in all the screws, completed another bench test, strapped down the battery (literal ratchet strap) and took it out for a mild test ride around the block.
So far, no (unexpected) issues!
Speedo needs tuning, and I've got it so underpowered right now that modes 1 & 2 just give up trying to move while I'm on the bike -- but I expected that because I've got it severely constrained since I wasn't sure what the battery specs were.
I'm not sure I'll stick with the suspension seat post, between the front and rear already being there, a 3rd source of bounce feels...odd.
Lots of wire routing to clean up and sleeve, cockpit adjustments to make, and the battery to wrap up, but coming along without any major hiccups.
Right now I'm recharging the battery (very low @ 66v) so I can re-tune the controller and give it some actual pep, but this battery clearly not meant for the bike, lol.
Modeled up a bracket for the display and mounted it:
I'm wiring in an LTE-GPS unit as well. You directly connect it to constant battery, and you also wire it to a positive voltage when the vehicle is "on". With the active/inactive state knowledge, the unit can slow down updates, activate a "bump alert" text alarm, and since the little unit has a built in battery, can even text me when the battery gets disconnected. When it goes active, it picks up GPS faster and stops the "theft" notices. (Technically, it also has a relay you can activate remotely allowing you to do something like apply the high/low brakes if it's stolen and still connected. Neat.)
Now, while the voltage range on the device is awesome (9-100v), it's just a bit shy of the battery voltage for the bike (110v). First I tried to salvage a 120v AC wall wort into this role, which did step down the 110v DC power to 12v...but it also created an isolate ground. This means when the bike's primary DCDC turns on and provides 12v to the accessory wire on the unit, the unit can't get a voltage reading from the ground for power and this unconnected 12v. Learned something new though!
So I picked up an itty bitty dcdc step down that can handle up to 120v and steps down to 12v (the battery charged will be about 110v) with a more common buck converter keeping the same ground.
Just model pictures -- I installed it before snaps.
Wired up the brake inputs so that they trigger the brake high while supplying 12v to the rear light for active braking lights. Configured some very basic regen tuning in the app.
And... well, aside from the battery, that's all the wiring! I zipped in all the screws, completed another bench test, strapped down the battery (literal ratchet strap) and took it out for a mild test ride around the block.
So far, no (unexpected) issues!
Speedo needs tuning, and I've got it so underpowered right now that modes 1 & 2 just give up trying to move while I'm on the bike -- but I expected that because I've got it severely constrained since I wasn't sure what the battery specs were.
I'm not sure I'll stick with the suspension seat post, between the front and rear already being there, a 3rd source of bounce feels...odd.
Lots of wire routing to clean up and sleeve, cockpit adjustments to make, and the battery to wrap up, but coming along without any major hiccups.
Right now I'm recharging the battery (very low @ 66v) so I can re-tune the controller and give it some actual pep, but this battery clearly not meant for the bike, lol.
. Have you found any info on ANT canbus data to vesc yet? I have ANT bms's in both my packs. 
