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Fastest folded bike in Ireland, 9c 2806, 24s, project check

M

madmax

1 mW
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
11
Location
Ireland / Poland
As usual during long evenings on winter Nanga Parbat (www.nangadream.blogspot.com) some ideas came to me... This time an ebike! as a part of energy revolution which already started.

I spend my whole past cycling so picking a bike was the easiest part (bike will be for commuting 16km one way / and taking to train ). Dahon Jetstream older model arrived last week...

Getting informations mostly from that forum I have picked those parts:

(from ebikes.ca )
- Nine Continental Hub Motor 2806 in 20 inch wheel
- Cycle analist V3 direct plug in
- TTL->USB cable
- eZee ebrake Cutoff Lever
- Thermistor

(From Lyen.com)
- 12 FET 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition
- torque arm
- Cycle Analyst connector, external USB-TTL connector for USB-TTL programming adapter, regenerative braking enable/disable jumper
- USB-TTL programming adapter
- Three Speed Switch
- Thumb Throttle

(from bmsbattery.com)
- 24 S BMS ! http://www.bmsbattery.com/bmspcm/378-17s26s-24a-max-discharge-current-bms.html
- 25 Headway 38120S http://www.bmsbattery.com/lifepo4-cell/118-headway-38120s-lifepo4-battery-cell.html + holder and connectors
- charger 400W - http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-she...po4li-ionlead-acid-battery-ebike-charger.html

(from thun.de)
- bottom bracket torque sensor X-CELL RT 120K/116 Digital output signal

appreciate any comments on that set up.
I will work to mount batteries on the frame - will be posting that later.
thanks
 
Sounds like it will wail. Carrying that much headway on it could get wierd if you plan on putting it on a rear rack. Might end up pretty light on the front wheel and wiggly.

The other thing that could trip you up is the motor will be 135mm dropout width, while many folders are narrower. So you might have to dish the wheel a bit, and then run a narrower freewheel than a 7 speed.

Or is this going to be a front hub?

Don't forget to carry the dog too Madmax.
 
330 g per battery x 24 = 8 kg so not to bad - I want to mount it on the frame in 2 maybe 3 packs.
Rear dropout for this Dahon Jetstream is 135mm
thanks
 
madmax said:
330 g per battery x 24 = 8 kg so not to bad - I want to mount it on the frame in 2 maybe 3 packs.
Rear dropout for this Dahon Jetstream is 135mm
thanks
Click to expand...

Been there, done that. Believe me, 8 kg in the rear is bad. In the frame is much better. Why the 9C? You may be able to fit a HS or HT. The Thun will connect to a CAv3, but if you have the Thun, why bother with a Thumb throttle?
 
thumb trottle will need when going fast (faster than my legs can turn ).
Why 9c ? lighter, smaller and cheapper also less cogging
 
madmax said:
thumb trottle will need when going fast (faster than my legs can turn ).
Why 9c ? lighter, smaller and cheapper also less cogging
Click to expand...

ok, makes sense. However, given the amount of batteries that you plan to carry with you, I am not sure the extra 3kg will really make a difference. Make sure to use the temp limiting features of the CAv3 to keep that 9C alive. You may even want to air-vent it.
 
I love it when people spaz out about handling of the bike with batts on a rear rack. It may phase the light riders but a big rider such as myself doesnt feel it back that too much. Guess its the ride/frame and the personal preference.
 
icecube57 said:
I love it when people spaz out about handling of the bike with batts on a rear rack. It may phase the light riders but a big rider such as myself doesnt feel it back that too much. Guess its the ride/frame and the personal preference.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't be concerned as much about the handling but more about creating a mad "Wheelie Machine". I am a big guy too (235 lb) and have two folders. Both are decidedly light in the front - put strong motor in a 20" wheel in the back, add another 15-20 lbs on a rear rack and that Dahon might be looking to lift off, lol. I have a Downtube 9 that I considered converting but took the 26" MTB route instead. I love my Downtube 9 - too good of a bike "unmotored" and didn't want to mess with it. I do however have a "Hot-Rodded" Citizen Tokyo - 16" wheels with a steel frame that would make a wicked E-Bike - curious how OP will mount battery pack to frame!
 
Yeah, I only weigh 165 now on the new diet.

I built a good wheeliemachine once, In a way it was fun to ride. You could only steer it with your ass and the throttle. Sometimes the front wheel could be brought down with a rear brake grab long enough to steer for a second or two. Fun as hell in dirt, but the highside crashes were rough.

Another rear hub rear battery bike just had the permanent death wobbles. Noodley soft frame and all that rear weight left it off balance enough to go into a high speed wobble if you let go of the bars. It would do that at the terrifying speed of 5mph. Didn't dare try to ride that thing above 20 mph with both hands holding on tight. Same bike was fine with 8 pounds of battery back there, but with 15 pounds it began to suck badly.

Same shit bike with the battery mounted straddling the top bar handles fine, I ride it like a bat outta hell with vids to prove it.

Absolutely a rear hub rear battery bike doesn't have to handle like a stinking dog turd. But two of mine sure did. If your bike is very strong from side to side, and there is zero flex in the rear rack, you can get away with a lot more. You just won't see me recomend it as the best way to go.

So try to avoid putting all of the battery on a rear rack. Put what you can more forward on the frame.
 
madmax said:
most of parts came so beast is under construction ...
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3GQ1qfEBZ-L6EesEeu8h67ej3B0erkCsULfSy_DtA0c?feat=directlink

just a quick question regarding hall wires and motor phases ... I have a lyen controller on one side and 9c motor ot the other - I think that motor phases wires is no difference how I connect them but what about hall sensor wires and why there is 5 of them ?
https://picasaweb.google.com/103157...hkey=Gv1sRgCMeh9Mf3oMCVag#5858648783365774674
Click to expand...

Mating my Lyen to EBk 9C required swapping green-blue phase and Hall sensor wires IIRC. I recently (search posts) figured out an unknown combination to another 9C. It's not too hard but don't use WOT with the wheel on the ground until you KNOW it's right.

Hall sensors use red/black for battery supply and Yel, Blu, Grn for switching signal.

OKAY - read this thread and pay attention to the colorful chart accountant shared. Very helpful to visualize the Phase/Hall combinations:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48311&p=711552#p711552
 
yes ! swithed green - blue for motor power and hall and works - proper direction, no vibrations - first time power up !
trying to set up throtle now:
Throtle is conected directly to Lyen controller (Lyen is saying that he modyfy that diode thing ) - I am confused now: should I connect throttle via CA v3 or directly to controller ?
When I have it directly to controller with CA set up as "trhtotle through" I can have the wheel spinning faster than 20 km/h, When I change that setting in CA to "off" wheel is spinning 70 km/h without touching throttle.
ehh that manual and thread about CA is like a bible !

first test ride soon I hope
 
having fun last few days
bike is using 20Wh/km as CA is showing ,
with aerodynamic position on flat 60 km/h cruize speed, max speed 67,
battery 82V 10Ah (5s 2p) - just doing first balancing with one battery medic (takes days ! - what voltage is best for balancing ? I am discharging each 4s to 4V, then charging and discharging again - is that good way ?)
Lyen 12 controller eating 45A max
CA shows somenthing close to 2.8 kW in moments
commuting 20 km one way to work (charging there for 2.5h by 200W charger ) and 20 km back (and charging in home - looking for second charger now ). Average speed on commuting 35km/h. Taking bike on 1h ride in train to get home ...

cabling still not finished but here is movie (sorry in polish )
[youtube]RM4UqwqdK70[/youtube]

next project is conversion of old honda dominator with gears and clutch in pleace.
 
Hi MadMax!

I've seen another poster here on the forum do a folding bike with Bionx, but he but the battery on the top CrossBar. He had plenty of room
to place it on the UNDERSIDE of the crossbar. Lower center of Gravity :) 20" wheels, you are already sitting high.

Also, the CA will not give you correct data, unless you enter the controller "SHUNT VALUE" into the CA. My first experience was that I didn't
enter the shunt value in the CA and in my case I was using 39wh per km. I have a bit of a technical background and new that this was off.
Then I found out about the CA and inputting the correct SHUNT Value from the controller. If you go through or have different controllers to
try or test, always write the Controller SHUNT value on the backside. This way you can update the CA with the correct shunt value of the
controller you are using. Then and only then will the CA give you correct consumption :)

Tommy L sends....
mosh.gif
 
thanks,
controller from Lyen says 1.333 ohm shunt and that how much I have put to CA so I beleive is correct. Max amp is 45 A and thats how much controller can do so looks good. M
 
madmax said:
thanks,
controller from Lyen says 1.333 ohm shunt and that how much I have put to CA so I beleive is correct. Max amp is 45 A and thats how much controller can do so looks good. M
Click to expand...

Perfect! My Lyen is also 1.333 ohm shunt value. :)

Sounds like you've got it under control! 8)

Tommy L sends.....
mosh.gif
 
madmax said:
- just doing first balancing with one battery medic (takes days ! - what voltage is best for balancing ? I am discharging each 4s to 4V, then charging and discharging again - is that good way ?).
Click to expand...

Do you actually mean you are discharging a 4s string down to 4.0 volts...1.0 volts per cell ? :shock:
Where did you get that suggestion from ? ...its not good.
I would not go below 2.0 v per cell = 8 V on a 4s string
 
discharging each cell to 4V then charging to 4.1 but I cant get one cell above 4V. Got imax charger maybe that will help.
Pack is still ok for 20 km commuting - lowest cell do not discharge below 3.6V (but I got one day when I discharged that below )
 
I've seen another poster here on the forum do a folding bike with Bionx, but he but the battery on the top CrossBar. He had plenty of room
to place it on the UNDERSIDE of the crossbar. Lower center of Gravity :) 20" wheels, you are already sitting high.
Click to expand...

Tommy L: Interesting. Can you link me to this post? Thanks!
 
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