Finalized! - Longboard Alien Drive Systems - single C6374

[666yeti666]

Aha, interesting Richard, thx for the info. Any date …. ?
I still have the original motormount, is the angled motor plate also available for that one … ?

I also got another tip from Psychotiller for a drop down board that doesn’t cause any wheel bite, even with 6”wheels ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/371187091984?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ), but since the drop down is quite serious, I would have to reverse the motor otherwise it will touch the board. My current motormount cannot be reversed since it is asymmetrical. Is there a “reverse mount” available Richard ??

Regarding the required torque and the bigger wheel size; larger wheels have more enertia and tend to have better “rolling characteristics” , so once it’s rolling, it’s rolling better, but from a deadstop it requires more power to get them moving of course.
Of course the pneumatics might have more sag, so a little more drag.
Maybe both effects might cancel each other out on longer trips …

Regards
Sebastien

 

[beetbocks]

Well the new precision mount is actually reversible..I have it that way on my commuter board with one motor at the front of the truck and the other at the rear... its because of the square hanger shape.. ill post photos later..
I've found if you really get the pressures up on the wheels they do roll better..
its simple to see the difference when i make the boards i have a test ride before i put any motors on and the skate wheels roll a lot further than the pneumatic wheel...maybe its more to do with the bearing seats...
I hope to have the kit available quite soon,i'm still waiting for the wheels to be delivered but as soon as they do ill fit and test the kit then a few weeks to manufacture some batches,..

 

[riba2233]

C6374-200 motor repair (DO NOT BUY THAT MOTOR FROM GIANSHARK-UK.COM !!!) :
As you could read before, the stator of that specific motor rotated under load.

First removed the stator from the aluminium baseplate to see if I could make a hole to put a pin between the baseplate and the stator.
Will let know the outcome soon ...

View attachment 7

View attachment 6

Hi, nice project, I really like the pocket bike!

May I ask, how did you remove the aluminum tube from the stator? Thanks!

 

[666yeti666]

thx. Removing the alu tube from the stator was not to difficult, I took a rubber glove and then hold the stator firmly in one hand while wringing/pulling the alu part with the other hand. The mroe it came loose the easier it got.
In my case of course there was too less glue between the alu and the stator so was relatively easy to remove. When there is proper glue in between, you cannot loosen it but then I think you wouldn't need to since it also didn't shift in the first place

regards
Sebastien

 

[riba2233]

Thanks for your answer! I'm looking for a method to remove it, because i have the 8085 motor which i want to connect to wye instead of delta, but i cannot acces the wires.

 

[666yeti666]

if your motor is glued well, you can forget about it I think .....

 

[beetbocks]

Aha, interesting Richard, thx for the info. Any date …. ?
I still have the original motormount, is the angled motor plate also available for that one … ?

I also got another tip from Psychotiller for a drop down board that doesn’t cause any wheel bite, even with 6”wheels ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/371187091984?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ), but since the drop down is quite serious, I would have to reverse the motor otherwise it will touch the board. My current motor mount cannot be reversed since it is asymmetrical. Is there a “reverse mount” available Richard ??

here's my precision mount 'reversed ' to use on my front truck

and here's the drop bracket i made and hoping to sell -its a bit hard to see the angle on this photo

 

[666yeti666]

ok, so some time has passed and in the meantime I'm considering to go for the bigger tyre wheels from Alien Drive systems (see also this thread : http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=55843&p=1003745#p1003745).

The mainreason is in fact "riding comfort", because I got that numb feeling in my feet afer driving for some time on rough tarmac and that seems to become worse.
Furthermore when I have bigger diameter wheels I could ride also during autumn, when small branches/leaves are on the roads. I also live close to a forest with some kind of paved road and that would ride much better with inflatables.
Last but not least we regularly have roads that consist of small cobble stones and you really don't want to ride them with urethanes !

Richards' built :





Considering the increased wheel size conversion I would need to have :
4x 5inch wheels (~60euro) => https://www.aliendrivesystems.com/store/p68/Urban_5_pneumatic_polymer_wheel-_4_pack.html
60t hub pulley wheel (~40 euro) => https://www.aliendrivesystems.com/store/p33/Hub_Pulley_Wheels.html
new longer belt (~8euro) => https://www.aliendrivesystems.com/store/p8/Drive_Belt.html

Since Richard already pointed out that the wheel clearence should be 70mm from the inner mounting of the trucks and a width of 130mm, this would be a significant change of my current board. This would also mean that my feet are to close to each other which I don’t like. So I will also look to another board that must be longer > 41” .




The downside of going to the bigger wheels and other gear ratio is that the max speed will drop from 25km/h to 20km/h , but I have to be honest that I rarely drove a lot on max speed, so it might be enough. On the other hand if it appears to be not enough I could change to a higher kv motor of 270 (in fact what is recommended by Richard, topspeed will then be about 30km/h) , then this motor would be nice : http://alienpowersystem.com/shop/50mm/alien-5065-outrunner-brushless-motor-270kv-2200wa/

Furthermore , according to Richard the riding range will be decreased by about 25%, so I would have to chech what this means for me.

To be continued ...
Sebastien

 

[beetbocks]

I have answered your questions on my commuter thread..but I you can fit other pulley sizes to the 5" wheel so it will just need a smaller pulley to obtain the top speed you need..the 63mm motor has the low torque to be able to do this easily..
IMO a the loss of range is by far made up for the excellent road handling of the pneumatics.. Just increase your battery size a bit...there relatively cheap now..
If I were you just build another..Urban 5 board and keep the skate wheel board as well for when you want to shred the smooth Tarmac....... :wink:

 

[666yeti666]

I have answered your questions on my commuter thread..but I you can fit other pulley sizes to the 5" wheel so it will just need a smaller pulley to obtain the top speed you need..the 63mm motor has the low torque to be able to do this easily..
IMO a the loss of range is by far made up for the excellent road handling of the pneumatics.. Just increase your battery size a bit...there relatively cheap now..
If I were you just build another..Urban 5 board and keep the skate wheel board as well for when you want to shred the smooth Tarmac....... :wink:

Aha, indeed , it didn't came up to my mind that the mounting pattern is the same for all your wheel pulleys ! This is great since when I would choose the smaller one, next below the 60T : the 44t this would lead to max speed of 27km/h , which is a little more than my current set-up with 15t/32t and the 83mm urethanes !
The bigger wheel size will lead to a current increase during take-off but I expect this to be no issue.

Regarding the range decrease. Currently I have an average current consumption of 3A per 8km , or 375mAh/km . 25% less range would lead to 3A per 6km, or 500mAh/km. Driving to my work and back would now consume 4Ah instead of 3Ah, so still some margin left in my 5Ah packs. But indeed I could increase package Ah's since prices drop rapidly and next to this, high C rates or not really necessary, so would even drop the prices down. Maybe I have to look for a nice 10Ah , flat pack...

Also good to read that you're discussing with a board manufacturer as well.
Oh, and I'm not in a hurry, the roads are currently full of sh*t to prevent cars from slipping due to the freezing temperatures here in The Netherlands ....

regards
Sebastien

 

[Vanarian]

Hi thank you for your consumption pattern I couldn't find any info on any of this before !

By chance have you measured the variations in energy needs between take off and cruising ? Nice board btw

 

[beetbocks]

Seb. .I have just seen on your photos that you have the mk1 caliber mount. ..that is a longer length to the new Precision mount..so any testing or recommendation I do for different pulleys /belt combos on the Urban 5 kit will not be relevant for you. .

 

[666yeti666]

Hi thank you for your consumption pattern I couldn't find any info on any of this before !

By chance have you measured the variations in energy needs between take off and cruising ? Nice board btw

thanks. I have logged data before, please read the post on page 4 : http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=56568&start=75#p865177

 

[666yeti666]

Seb. .I have just seen on your photos that you have the mk1 caliber mount. ..that is a longer length to the new Precision mount..so any testing or recommendation I do for different pulleys /belt combos on the Urban 5 kit will not be relevant for you. .

yes, that's what I already thought. Sometime ago I got this link from somebody about SDP belts that has a tool to calculate belt tooth count for gear ratio and defined center disctance between the two pulleys. Hre it is : https://sdp-si.com/eStore/CenterDistanceDesigner

In my case :
center to center distance : 87mm
pulley-1 : 15t
pulley-2 : 44t
calculated timing belt tooth count : 66t
length : 330mm (width : 9mm, pitch : 5mm HTD )

Part Number: A 6R25M066090 (https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog/PartNumber/A%206R25M066090)
price : 8.53U$

(My current belt with the 15/32 gears equals 295mm , which is correct for the center to center distance)

Just also find a belt in the netherlands : https://www.conrad.nl/nl/sit-htd-tandriemen-htd03305m009-breedte-9-mm-gezamenlijke-lengte-330-mm-aantal-tanden-66-profiel-5m-1002034.html
only 4.15 euro !

Sebastien


Sebastien

 

[beetbocks]

ahh..good -i have a similar belt length calculator..very good.

TBH when you buy with the kits they are at nearly cost price ..

How do you find the EZrun ESC with braking?..is it smooth and powerful..? what percentage do you set it at?

 

[666yeti666]

How do you find the EZrun ESC with braking?..is it smooth and powerful..? what percentage do you set it at?

See this post : http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=56568&start=75#p865158 :

"Anyway, yesterday I’ve checked the settings of the hobbywing Ezrun 150A and they are as follows (of which not all are important for the matter):

1: forward&brake
2: drag brake 0%
3: voltage protection 3.2V/cell
4: “DRRS” punch , level 1 => this is the amount of punch when driving off and can be programmed until level 9. So I’ve programmed the lowest punch, which is fine for driving off easily
5: brake force : 50% => speaks for itselves and I think it should be increased. Now I have programmed it to 75%
6: reverse force 25%
7: initial brake 0% => It is also called “minimum brake force”, and it refers to the force when the throttle stick is located at the initial position of the backward zone. The default value is equal to the drag brake force, so the brake effect can be very smoothly => programmed to 0% but maybe has to be changed ???
8: neutral range 9%
9: “AMTS” timing 5 => this equals 15degrees (default value) and can be changed from 0 to 26.25 degrees in 3.75degree steps
10: not present (?)
11: motor rotation CCW
12: lipo cells 6 cells / 22.2V"


50% braking appeared to be to weak, however, very smooth. So increased it to 75% which gives descent braking which is smooth enought to be stopped without getting launched off ! "

Some time ago I had a strange behaviour : I drove down the bridge and built-up quite some speed during the way down, then I carefully gave some braking and suddenly I got some kind of short glitch that seem to make the motor stop for a very very short moment and scared the hell out of me. Luckily I could maintain balance after the board slung below my feet ...
In fact we all know that a rotating motor will induce a voltage across it's windings, so that must have disturbed the pulses of the ESC to the motor somehow... and maybe in some cases even destroy the FET's, depending on switching of the ESC and the braking moment/power.
I wonder if that can be avoided by some kind of "free-running" mode .... I'll try to get some more info about this topic ....

Regards
Sebastien

 

[666yeti666]

Considering the increased wheel size conversion I would need to have :
4x 5inch wheels (~60euro) => https://www.aliendrivesystems.com/store/p68/Urban_5_pneumatic_polymer_wheel-_4_pack.html
60t hub pulley wheel (~40 euro) => https://www.aliendrivesystems.com/store/p33/Hub_Pulley_Wheels.html
new longer belt (~8euro) => https://www.aliendrivesystems.com/store/p8/Drive_Belt.html

Apparently I forgot to include the "urban 5 hub adapter" that's required to mount the pulley on the wheel (~27 euro) => https://www.aliendrivesystems.com/store/p69/Urban_5_hub_adapter.html
So that's a total of 133euro versus 168euro for the total kit.

regards
Sebastien

 

[666yeti666]

It's been a while but weather's become better and really wanting to order the 5"pneumatic wheels of Alien Drive Systems.
However still searching for a decent prized longboard deck only, with a length of 42" , symmetrical, no drop down, preferrably 10" wide . I hope that any of you guys have any suggestions .... ???

thx
Sebastien

 

[beetbocks]

how about these?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COMET-Pag...1&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=170882161532&rt=nc

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COMET-Lok...b&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=170398889011&rt=nc

 

[666yeti666]

thanks for the link, I will have a look

Seb

 

[666yeti666]

In the meantime I've found another suitable, cheaper one, which I've just ordered !

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/42-RAW-FLUSH-MOUNT-FREESTYLE-LONGBOARD-SKATEBOARD-Deck-/371334632326?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item567544d386#shpCntId

to be continued ....

Sebastien

 

[666yeti666]

wheels , adapter and 44t pulley are ordered !!

http://www.aliendrivesystems.com/store/p68/Urban_5_pneumatic_polymer_wheel-_4_pack.html

I can't wait to start the conversion !

Sebastien

 

[okp]

awesome. I just went to the full read of your thread - interesting and lots of knowledge here... Align forever ?! or Logo Mikado ;>

reminds me the good old days when I crashed when doing 3D flights... and the readyheli.com shop that what kind of a family. Time goes by so quickly.

 

[666yeti666]

... Align forever ?! or Logo Mikado ;>

reminds me the good old days when I crashed when doing 3D flights... and the readyheli.com shop that what kind of a family. Time goes by so quickly.

haha, none of both in fact, nowadays I fly several other brands ; Compass 7HV, 90 size electric (field rep.) , Warp 360 but also Goblin 700 competition and since one month OXY3 helicopter of which I became team pilot.
Don't you fly anymore then ? It was and still is my best hobby ....





Anyway, on topic again ....

I’ve received my wheels today ! I put one on the axle on my board to see how they run and , well they run smooth but since the tyre is not inflated yet, it wobbles around .....
Now the wait is on the new 42”board .....

 

[beetbocks]

When you do inflate. .Inflate a little then endure the tire is aligned with the centre of the wheel..use the live around the tire to judge. .then inflate full .
Enjoy..