Finalized! - Longboard Alien Drive Systems - single C6374

[666yeti666]

a friend of mine testing the board shortly : http://youtu.be/sTtc7Y1G1Is

sebastien

 

[666yeti666]

short update : increasing the brake force to 70% definately gives a lot better braking. The sound is still there, but I will not try to change that further, now it's all about making the drives to my work; hopefully the weather will get better.

regards
Sebastien

 

[666yeti666]

off topic:

my new project ...
of which I will start a new topic of course !

 

[torqueboards]

Looks like fun. Will you be using disc brakes?

 

[BShady]

haha really neat!! i want to see that in 2 wheel drive!!

 

[666yeti666]

Looks like fun. Will you be using disc brakes?

yes, they are already on. This will be a relatively easy built, oh and by the way I repaired the motor that I got back from Giantshark that I will be using for this project. I managed to put a 2mm pin between the rotor and the aluminium base plate which will prevent it from rotating again. Glued it all in with special metal glue ( high temperature resistent). Will place some pictures of the repair over here. Hopefully the magnets will hold under these loads in the pocketbike ...

 

[666yeti666]

C6374-200 motor repair (DO NOT BUY THAT MOTOR FROM GIANSHARK-UK.COM !!!) :
As you could read before, the stator of that specific motor rotated under load.

First removed the stator from the aluminium baseplate to see if I could make a hole to put a pin between the baseplate and the stator. I noticed that there was almost no glue between the stator and the baseplate.
Made the slot free from glue.
Then took a saw and removed the aluminium portion where the two bearings are seated, in order to make room for a small drill.
Put the stator back on the base plate and started drilling very carefully into the slot with 1.5mm and worked my way up to 2mm. Then try fitted the m2 bolt into the hole. Removed the head of the m2 bolt.
Repaired the yellow torn silicon isolation hose by a piece of heatshrink.

Then sanded down and cleaned the baseplate and stator with acetone and started to mix the 2 component glue. Put very thin layer of glue onto the baseplate and slowly shifted the stator onto the baseplate and put the 2mm pin inside the hole.
Waited for some hours and put back the rotor on it.

Measured resistance between the shaft and the wires and no shorts, so can be tested tomorrow when the glue has hardened.

Will let know the outcome soon ...









View attachment 3

 

[666yeti666]

built thread of the Epocketbike over here : http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=58328&p=870302#p870302

questions about the ePocketbike in that thread please ...

 

[666yeti666]

I have driven several times to my office and back and I have to say I'm really happy.
I'm getting used to the behaviour of the board and my average speeds are increasing (dare to drive faster...) . What I also like is that the throttle response feels nice and since I'm almost on full throttle (I think on 90%) the speed can be controlled very well, as well as I'm in a good efficiency range of the ESC and the motor, both barely getting warm.

What I like less is driving on rougher tarmac, which gives significant vibrations to my feet which can feel numb after some time. I think I need some softer wheels. Any idea's ??

rgards
Sebastien

 

[torqueboards]

Sometimes, it just takes time getting use to the ride. You could add in soft risers to absorb shock. Softer bushings and/or softer/bigger wheels and/or a thicker board. Those all help to absorb the feedback from the road. Can help your ride feel more like a tank but also harder to maneuver. The ultimate shock absorb would be moving to pneumatic wheels. Wish they had 3-4" air wheels! Still waiting on them.

 

[666yeti666]

I guess you're right. I will check for softer riser pads.

Currently using ABEC11 83mm Flywheels 78a. Would I feel any significant difference to go for softer 75a ?? Or would I only notify it by better grip (which is already enough for me now)

Any ABEC11 clones that are even softer and would fit my Alien Drive adapter ?

 

[beetbocks]

Sometimes, it just takes time getting use to the ride. You could add in soft risers to absorb shock. Softer bushings and/or softer/bigger wheels and/or a thicker board. Those all help to absorb the feedback from the road. Can help your ride feel more like a tank but also harder to manuver. The ultimate shock absorb would be moving to pneumatic wheels. Wish they had 3-4" air wheels! Still waiting on them.

they have 5" wheels- mine.. but i'm finding it hard to get them made at a reasonable cost -due to there high precision..but they are silky smooth to ride over any ground... im trying to adapt off the shelf skike wheels..but its proving a bit more difficult then i anticipated..
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=55843

[youtube]xysgHyfh0cc[/youtube]

and i'm using the same wheel on my scooter-

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=55997


and the 6" version--which i will be using on a future project..

 

[beetbocks]

I guess you're right. I will check for softer riser pads.

Currently using ABEC11 83mm Flywheels 78a. Would I feel any significant difference to go for softer 75a ?? Or would I only notify it by better grip (which is already enough for me now)

Any ABEC11 clones that are even softer and would fit my Alien Drive adapter ?

sorry I didn't answer your question- the softer durometer do fell softer and no unfortunately the the ABEC clones are even harder-- have you considered the Seismic Speed vent? 85mm so a little larger diameter- and the edges of these wheels are super soft- i love them...and there a little wider also..

 

[torqueboards]

Beetbocks - The wheels you got are good but they are pricey. I think it's about $200 or so for a set though.

 

[beetbocks]

Beetbocks - The wheels you got are good but they are pricey. I think it's about $200 or so for a set though.

that's correct - that's why its not for sale at the moment but the concept is well proven now- i just need to get them at a better price.. if i can perfect the skike wheel adaptor and truck mount- then the skike wheels are 21 euro each for a complete wheel including bearing/spacers/tyre/tube

 

[dirkdiggler]

Have you tried these:
http://atomlongboards.com/urethane-wheel-set-145mm.html

There are a ton of wheelchair wheels that are pneumatic in 4" sizes if that is what you really want.

 

[LEVer]

4" pneumatics? I'd like to try those out. Got a link dirk? The Zboard's wheels are 4" but they are not pneumatics. They do ride really smoother than urethanes though.

 

[666yeti666]

thanks for all the "alternative-big-wheel-ideas"

Beside that their costly, I have to change board and drive train as well. So maybe I have to try softer riser pads and softer ABEC11 wheels ....

 

[torqueboards]

thanks for all the "alternative-big-wheel-ideas"

Beside that their costly, I have to change board and drive train as well. So maybe I have to try softer riser pads and softer ABEC11 wheels ....

Use the soft riser pads not just the ones that add height to your deck. I switched to a drop through and I feel everything now there's no cushion or anything absorbing any of the impacts. However, it's a nice ride when the road is nice since it's low to the ground. I'm most likely going to switch to a top mount again though. All you need is like the thinnest ones too if you don't need the clearance. I don't really like the deck too high. Should provide a great amount of cushion.

 

[666yeti666]

a short update :
searched for the soft riser pads but difficult to find 10mm, as it's required, so the search will go on.

Another thing is that I have changed transmitter to the following one : T3919A 2.4GHz :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4GHz-2-Channel-FHSS-Radio-Transmitter-for-Radio-Remote-Control-Car-Boat-T3919A-/390599107869?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:NL:3160

There's also a more luxury version available but why make it more complex than needed ....

I did a testdrive today and I can feel the smaller size and lighter weight ! The throttle control feels very well and operates smoothly.
I changed the transmitter a little bit; removed the steering wheel, and the variable resistor, cut the protruding part for the antenna, rerouted the internal antenna and finally cutted some plastics of the battery to get the batteries easily out (the design sucks!) . Oh and yes , added a strap from an old camera to wrap around the wrist during riding.

I forgot to program the failsafe, which resulted in a slowly rotating motor when the transmitter is switched off ...

Drove the board twice for quite some miles and I’m getting more and more aqcuainted with driving it. I love to dive wide curves on average speed, feels like snowboarding on the street , yeehaaa !!!

Lastly, today, I mounted my camera on top of my helmet to shoot some video during driving, let’s see how that works out...

some pictures :


















View attachment 6



View attachment 3

 

[torqueboards]

http://www.daddiesboardshop.com/khiro-1-8-inch-shock-pad-skateboard-risers-large Try these.

 

[666yeti666]

http://www.daddiesboardshop.com/khiro-1-8-inch-shock-pad-skateboard-risers-large Try these.

ok thanks, I can built up 10mm out of multiple 1/8"ones .

 

[torqueboards]

I'm pretty sure they have a 1/4" or 6.35mm. You could use a 1/4" + a 1/8" (3.17mm) soft riser for 9.52 close enough unless you wanted to precise at 10mm .

 

[666yeti666]

thanks but I just noticed it is located in the US and post is usually a PITA for us Europeans ...

So I bumped into these ones A little too thick(but in the name of comfort ...) : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D-STREET-Skateboard-Truck-1-2-Riser-Pads-Set-of-2-Assorted-Colours-/221240337174?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:NL:3160

Let's see how they work out

Sebastien

 

[beetbocks]

a bit late i realise but i sell 1/2" riser..i didnt say before as you sepcificaly mentioned 10mm
http://www.aliendrivesystems.com/store/p18/1/2"__80a_riser_pads_(1_pair).html