rodgah
10 kW
Hi folks,
I have been a long time lurker here at ES watching everyone lay the groundwork to rc development. I have decided to build my own project and I thought I would post up the build as it progresses. My bike is well, what can I say, I bought a Big W special (americans think Kmart Walmart etc..) for use with a cyclone kit. But after much thought a cyclone setup wouldnt tickle my fancy for very long. So along came Recumpence/Matts PK ripper....needless to say I was impressed, and the trike that followed just spurred me along.
So long story short I have decided to use the frame of the bike since its cromolly (easy to strengthen, and adapt and weld to compared to ally) and upgrade just about everything else. At this point id like to say this bike is the most genre confused bike there will ever be, now being a street/DJ frame, cross country wheelset, entry level forks, huge rotors and cruiser bike hookworms, with trials pedal gearing. Oh and electric
It will be the same setup as Matts Ripper with parralell chains, using his drive with twin 3220's and 20ah of lipo.


For any other Aussies and possibly everyone else may be interested, I have found a aussie Trials bike website that sells Echo cranks for cheap. http://shop.trialshive.com/product_...id=53&osCsid=bfa69c78bf904ad72b704fe6159c25ba
I am probably going to just use a 22 tooth ENO or cheaper freewheel on the Echo cranks to a 13tooth or less(availability?) single speed sprocket due to size restrictions and honestly I aint gonna be pedalling with 2 3220s am I. I will also be going to 203mm Rotors with the Hayes strokers. The batteries will be going into a light weight ally box inside of the triangle, similar to D's kona, along with throttleizer and the pair of HV160 controllers. Due again to size restrictions you may of guessed already that Im not going to use the clamps that matt makes for his drive since they would impede on the box inside the triangle, so i will be making my own way of mounting the drive to the frame.
So my Questions start now.
Is an expensive ENO really worth it for me, since im not going to be pedalling, probably ever(seeing that if it is freewheeling almost all the time, does this wear them out)?
Aussie Jester / Timma / any other Lipo aussies....
What is the implications with ordering a large amount of lipo into australia from hobbycity with respect to shipping safety and import tax ect..
Im a battery dumbass, I understand how not discharging to batterys lower limit and not charging to absolutely full, makes cells last longer, but as for BMS i think i have just read too much and cannot decide what i want. i can put up with charging each pack one by one but obviously not desireable. Can i ballance each pack to the same charge, then parralell all 8 of them together for normal charges, and ballance each pack now and then to keep them at the same level. Is there a 6s charger that anyone could recommend for doing such a method. Is there a plug in BMS that could handle my setup? Does the HV160 have LVC and does this work well enough so i dont kill cells.
Is there a freehub adaptor to 110mm bcd chainring? not essential because i can laser cut it so my other question, if not does someone have the exact measurements / drawing of the spline of the freehub without clearance adjustments. I did follow LFP thread on broaching ENO's and it does interest me, but since im in australia i think it maybe just too much effort to get that arranged.
Are D's kona, Timmas Norco ect with on/off switch on the bars just using a contactor to the pack, if so where can I get a contactor that will work with this kind of current.
Finally the last thing that is on my mind at the moment is my rear axil as in horizontal drop outs, with quick release. i believe i will need adjusters but can anyone recommend strong ones that wont break like Aussiejesters did. i also guess i cant use quick release with them correct?
If my bike works and performs to anything close to matts ripper, I will have to build the exact same setup onto a norco ryde.
Please feel free to comment, I am open to out of the box ideas, because essentially I have just compiled each user on this sites ideas and options that i like into one bike.
cheers and ps I dont pretend to know you guys (people i have mentioned) I just find it easier to relate to everyone the way everyone else does, so no offence intended.
I have been a long time lurker here at ES watching everyone lay the groundwork to rc development. I have decided to build my own project and I thought I would post up the build as it progresses. My bike is well, what can I say, I bought a Big W special (americans think Kmart Walmart etc..) for use with a cyclone kit. But after much thought a cyclone setup wouldnt tickle my fancy for very long. So along came Recumpence/Matts PK ripper....needless to say I was impressed, and the trike that followed just spurred me along.
So long story short I have decided to use the frame of the bike since its cromolly (easy to strengthen, and adapt and weld to compared to ally) and upgrade just about everything else. At this point id like to say this bike is the most genre confused bike there will ever be, now being a street/DJ frame, cross country wheelset, entry level forks, huge rotors and cruiser bike hookworms, with trials pedal gearing. Oh and electric
It will be the same setup as Matts Ripper with parralell chains, using his drive with twin 3220's and 20ah of lipo.


For any other Aussies and possibly everyone else may be interested, I have found a aussie Trials bike website that sells Echo cranks for cheap. http://shop.trialshive.com/product_...id=53&osCsid=bfa69c78bf904ad72b704fe6159c25ba
I am probably going to just use a 22 tooth ENO or cheaper freewheel on the Echo cranks to a 13tooth or less(availability?) single speed sprocket due to size restrictions and honestly I aint gonna be pedalling with 2 3220s am I. I will also be going to 203mm Rotors with the Hayes strokers. The batteries will be going into a light weight ally box inside of the triangle, similar to D's kona, along with throttleizer and the pair of HV160 controllers. Due again to size restrictions you may of guessed already that Im not going to use the clamps that matt makes for his drive since they would impede on the box inside the triangle, so i will be making my own way of mounting the drive to the frame.
So my Questions start now.
Is an expensive ENO really worth it for me, since im not going to be pedalling, probably ever(seeing that if it is freewheeling almost all the time, does this wear them out)?
Aussie Jester / Timma / any other Lipo aussies....
What is the implications with ordering a large amount of lipo into australia from hobbycity with respect to shipping safety and import tax ect..
Im a battery dumbass, I understand how not discharging to batterys lower limit and not charging to absolutely full, makes cells last longer, but as for BMS i think i have just read too much and cannot decide what i want. i can put up with charging each pack one by one but obviously not desireable. Can i ballance each pack to the same charge, then parralell all 8 of them together for normal charges, and ballance each pack now and then to keep them at the same level. Is there a 6s charger that anyone could recommend for doing such a method. Is there a plug in BMS that could handle my setup? Does the HV160 have LVC and does this work well enough so i dont kill cells.
Is there a freehub adaptor to 110mm bcd chainring? not essential because i can laser cut it so my other question, if not does someone have the exact measurements / drawing of the spline of the freehub without clearance adjustments. I did follow LFP thread on broaching ENO's and it does interest me, but since im in australia i think it maybe just too much effort to get that arranged.
Are D's kona, Timmas Norco ect with on/off switch on the bars just using a contactor to the pack, if so where can I get a contactor that will work with this kind of current.
Finally the last thing that is on my mind at the moment is my rear axil as in horizontal drop outs, with quick release. i believe i will need adjusters but can anyone recommend strong ones that wont break like Aussiejesters did. i also guess i cant use quick release with them correct?
If my bike works and performs to anything close to matts ripper, I will have to build the exact same setup onto a norco ryde.
Please feel free to comment, I am open to out of the box ideas, because essentially I have just compiled each user on this sites ideas and options that i like into one bike.
cheers and ps I dont pretend to know you guys (people i have mentioned) I just find it easier to relate to everyone the way everyone else does, so no offence intended.