First E bike A2B need help.

[Gwest]

I cleaned up the Battery’s Main connection it was much more oxidized then I thought. It was easy to clean up the Male pieces but how do you clean up the Female portion? I used some De Ox on both ends.

Question: when your checking the brake sensors at the controller do you need the battery hooked up to see a open or closed connection?

And just checking but we are sure I have the motor with the controller in the wheel?

 

[fechter]

The brake switches are just switches. You should see continuity across the wires when you pull either brake. You can leave them disconnected and test the motor.

The older ones like mine will have only two fat red/black wires going to the motor. Newer ones with the external controller will have 3 fat wires.

 

[Gwest]

Ok confirmed. (Thank you) I have the Older Original internal motor controller located in the wheel. Testing the brake sensors now.


2 switches brake switches

#1 switch 4 wires Black gray purple green.
I’m getting a Closed circuit from Grey and Purple. With the both brakes either on and off.
#2 switch 3 wires Red white and yellow. All 3 are open with the brakes on or off.

 

[markz]

Yeah connectors will oxidize, especially if you ride alot.
Try some of that dielectric grease.

connection it was much more oxidized then I thought

 

[fechter]

2 switches brake switches

#1 switch 4 wires Black gray purple green.
I’m getting a Closed circuit from Grey and Purple. With the both brakes either on and off.
#2 switch 3 wires Red white and yellow. All 3 are open with the brakes on or off.

That sounds like the wires for the throttle and SOC indicator? On mine, both brake switches are two wires, red and white.
Yours may be a different version than mine though.
The brake connectors can be left unplugged until you get it running.

 

[Gwest]

FLECHER: thank you for your reply. And explanation.
I went out and tested the 2 wire connection’s Both were Red & White as you explained & both Front and Rear brake switches tested out perfect. I labeled them as instructed. I then went to test the Key switch. It appears to be working. when switching to “A it works as well as when I switch to “B all 3 positions the switch will close and is working. So we are making progress.
So Far:
1. Battery has 38 volts
2. Front & Rear Brake switches are working
3. key Switch is working
4. Battery to Hub motor connections clean and de Oxidized.

The battery is still out of the bike. Is there any more tests I should perform?

 

[fechter]

Only other thing I would try is measuring the battery voltage with a small load. Almost anything like a 1k resistor or a 120v incandescent light bulb.

You might be able to plug in the battery while it’s still outside and see if you get power.

 

[Gwest]

Ok If I was to hook a 110 load on the 38 volt battery what should I expect? I have a amp clamp. I also have a 110 heater element that I have used in the past to drain voltage off my 98volt Golf Cart system.

 

[Gwest]

Is there anyway to test the Rear wheel?

 

[Hillhater]

Is there anyway to test the Rear wheel?

With the wheel off the ground,..Connect 36 volts ( use the battery direct if you are sure its outputting 36+v). ..DIRECT jumper wire links to the 2 wire connector at the hub ( take care with polarity)..... connect the throttle ( smaller connector) and see if anything happens when you operate the throttle.

 

[Gwest]

Ok Hillhater will do.

 

[fechter]

Ok If I was to hook a 110 load on the 38 volt battery what should I expect? I have a amp clamp. I also have a 110 heater element that I have used in the past to drain voltage off my 98volt Golf Cart system.

You just want to see that it doesn't instantly drop to zero with a load. Sometimes you can get a good voltage reading with no load even though the BMS is tripped but it will drop out under any kind of load. Keep the load under 20A. Even 20mA is enough for this test.

 

[Gwest]

So I was able to Test the battery:

I took a 1500w Water Heater element and hooked it to the battery. It worked out to be a 150w draw at 36v here are my test results. I had my Multi Meter and Amp clamp hooked up to the battery and here are my results

Test Start Time
4:59 Voltage 36.54 pulling 4.5amps
5:02 voltage 36.25 pulling 4.5amps
5:05 voltage 36.03 pulling 4.5 amps
So in 5 mins with a 4.5 amp draw it dropped 1/2 volt

Battery and BMS stayed cool 76 degrees the whole time

 

[fechter]

Test passed. Battery is OK. BMS is not tripped.

 

[Gwest]

Crap: I never checked I saw the post and picture of a black button on the BMS. Was I supposed to see if that button needed to be pressed?

 

[fechter]

Crap: I never checked I saw the post and picture of a black button on the BMS. Was I supposed to see if that button needed to be pressed?

Your test indicates the BMS is working so the button doesn't need to be pressed, not that I know what it really does.

 

[Gwest]

Ok thanks. I was on the fence whether to press it I thought it might be some sort of a reset, but I figured if I had 38 volts coming from the battery then I was good to go. What is your thoughts on the next thing to check? I will be installing the battery tomarow. If I plug it in and nothing happens what would be the next step?

 

[999zip999]

So it's a brushed. Motor and controller ?

 

[Gwest]

I would Assume it’s brushless. It’s got the power and ground wires comming from the motor along with a 4 pin connector commming from the hub. The controller is located in the hub

 

[fechter]

Reinstall the battery and if it still doesn’t work check voltage on the wires for the key switch. Its not too hard to pop the switch out. Pry up around the edge.

 

[Gwest]

Well I’m kicking my self. I left my $200 Fluke MM at my other house & I brought the battery home plugged it in and had my fingers crossed. Nothing, no action, and the cheep MM I bought to check some basic stuff is acting up. So for now I have no good news to report. I’ll be getting a new MM and reporting back my Keys status. I do remember checking and the Keys position “A”was opening and closing I could not check for power but I could see position A working.

 

[markz]

I just had a battery wire break off my XT90, but for your situation could be an internal open, inside the insulation.

 

[fechter]

Bummer on the meter.
When you have the meter working, I was suggesting pulling the key and measure across the white and red wires with the key off. You should see pack voltage there. With the key on A, this should drop to zero. If the relay coil is bad, you'd get nothing on the key wires.

Another check is to measure resistance from the main battery negative wire to the heavy black wire going to the motor. This should be near zero ohms. If everything is working, turning on the key will put pack voltage on the motor connector.

Another thing to try is to swap the A and B battery connectors at the switch module in the rat's nest. There's a picture of it in the service manual. Once swapped, the key would work in the B position instead of A. This uses the other relay.

 

[Gwest]

Flechter:
Ok got a el cheepo MM meter at Home Depot Back I’m in the game for now. I’ll do your check list. But when I disconnect the power wires coming from the bike to power hub (under the rear sun frame) The key functions as normal. Example: Position A give me 37 volts going to the hub. Key position OFF & Positon “B result in zero volts so the key is functioning as it should be.

 

[E-Glider]

Cool.. sounds like you are eliminating potential glitches OK now!

I guess once the battery is back in, just check again for switch to relay 'A' clicking noise etc.

If throttle does still not turn the wheel, suggest feeding 36v (x3 12v car batteries in series for example?) direct to hub motor connection under the rear frame.. at least then you will know if the actual motor functions - and can then start working back (or is it forward?) from there!
- Probably hitting the BMS 'reset' button would be a good start.