Miles, Is there room on a freehub for one broached ENO (for the motor)...and then one of the cheaper de-threaded freewheel/fixed-gear-adapter combo's (for the pedals)?
veloman said:I have read the first 11 pages here, and I realized something.
You only need the freewheeling cog for the pedal drive chain, not the motor driven one. This is because you should be able to easily bolt your large chainring onto the back of a 7 speed cassette (which is obviously already splined). You don't need the motor sprocket to freewheel unless you really need to pedal the bike without motor drag.
veloman said:The remaining issue is getting your cheap freewheeling sprocket on the splined hub. But to me, it should be less of an issue since it won't require as much of a quality interface as the motor one would need - just enough for whatever small amount of pedaling you will do.
veloman said:OR, you could solve this whole problem by using freewheel cranks, which are only like $50 with chainrings at sickbikeparts.
-Motor drive freewheels with splined cassette.
-Pedal chain spins with motor, but freewheel cranks allow you to coast.
-Pedaling with motor off will have some drag, but who really pedals a high powered ebike with the motor off? I do a little on my current low powered rig, but that's at 8mph in parking lots. It's a non-issue IMO.
What do you guys think?
veloman said:I want to get all the info out of this thread but it's 30 more pages to read! Can anyone give me an update on this project?
I would be in for a splined freewheeling sprocket if it is available now.
veloman said:I can live with motor drag when pedaling.
-Rich
veloman said:Does anyone know the efficiency of the Dual Drive? I might consider it, still deciding.
If I stick with a normal hub, that uniglide freehub seems like it would be perfect for me.
Eliminating the use of freewheel cranks would cut 2 lbs off the bike, less cost, and of course keep things quieter/safer at speed.