fork axlelock design

[greenerwheels]

I broke this out from my recumbent build because I wanted to get specific reaction on my axlelock design. I've included some close up's of the fork I reworked. I think this is a safer solution than using a torque arm. I believe this could be integrated in a rear wheel design also. Feedback is wanted. Thanks, GreenerwheelsView attachment 1

 

[vanilla ice]

Awesome! Thicker wall on the square tube next one. You know for the crazies.

 

[kentlim26]

this the Best build i ever seen !! clean cut design.

 

[j3tch1u]

very nice, thanks for sharing. i'm working on a similar design but for my dropouts. my "torque" block will be steel and slitted on one end to allow it to be clamped onto the axle and also bolted to the dropout (aside from the axle nut).

 

[skeetab5780]

is that uni strut? and a uni strut washer?

 

[greenerwheels]

skeetab5780
No its not Unistrut, its just CRS square tubing with a 3/16" steel plate inserted in the back and welded and slotted, then welded to a BMX fork and cleaned up with a file, the dropout thickness is now almost 1/2" thick, the square washer is 3/8" plate steel. The steel was very inexpensive, purchased as scrap at my local steel yard. This task is very labor intensive. The only part that disappoints me is all the splatter from my fluxcore wire welder, the results would be much cleaner with a real MIG or TIG welder, something to put on my Christmas list.

Greenerwheels

 

[skeetab5780]

good info cool looking design. thanks for sharing

 

[SilverSurfer]

WHY...ITS ATOMIC BOMB PROOF!!!

Great job, you wont be having any issues with that one. SS

 

[PeteCress]

Feedback is wanted.

This is the most appealing design I've seen. I'm not qualified to judge how well it works, but if it does work it's Da Bomb.

Only thing I can think of is two little holes in diagonal corners so the user can have a loop of string to enable pulling out the steel plate when changing a tire.

That way it could be a snug fit without the PITA factor of digging it out.

Would also work with just a loop of string and a couple of channels... but with the holes, the string would stay in place while the plate was removed and there would not be an issue with remembering to replace the string.

 

[SilverSurfer]

A good added mod could be to slot the block that goes on the wire side if you have that on both sides. If you slot the block, the slot can be situated on the opposite side of the dropout slot. Getting things on the wire side can be a pain. SS

 

[bigmoose]

It's not only good, it's GREAT! It's so good, I wouldn't be surprised to see someone patent it.

 

[gtadmin]

My front fork dropouts are of a similar design without the slotted piece at the bottom. Your design is better, and I'm modifying mine to suit. There is no need for the CRS to have a greater wall thickness, it will work fine as they are. Great job.

The only part that disappoints me is all the splatter from my fluxcore wire welder, the results would be much cleaner with a real MIG or TIG welder

Use anti-spatter spray and the spatter will fall off. (My MIG is fluxcore too, and it works a charm)

Cheers,
GT