Fractal's Norco A-line build

[fractal]

Nice. I suggest you get some heavy duty downhill tubes and some kevlar liner (I use 40mm panaracer flataway) to prevent flats.

After over 4000km on my Hookworms with the liners and big tube, not a single flat.

Thanks for the tip! I Will look into that.

LOL!!! I had no idea Panasonic made bike products!!!

 

[sn0wchyld]

made a start on those torque plates yet? im curious what you come up with....

 

[fractal]

made a start on those torque plates yet? im curious what you come up with....

Shouldn't be too long, they will be awesome. I found a very skilled machinist that will make them with his CNC machine!!! I need to finish the motor mods before I work on them. I can only do a little at a time because of my beautiful baby daughter, she comes first

 

[Andje]

i can't wait to see your torque arm design . I am also considering using an a-line frame for a 5403 build, mostly because with the bolt on dropouts you can manufacture your own.

 

[fractal]

i can't wait to see your torque arm design . I am also considering using an a-line frame for a 5403 build, mostly because with the bolt on dropouts you can manufacture your own.

If you're interested, this is where I got It http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NORCO-A-LINE...6433627?pt=Mountain_Bikes&hash=item35b5fba15b
The «physical store» is in Gatineau and is called « Les bicyclettes de Hull ». If you go there in person, you wont pay the shipping.

 

[Andje]

thanks; i had seen those actually, and i'm just over in ottawa so it's prby what i'll end up getting... Do you think the mounting points for the dropouts are strong enough to extend the frame geometry by making torque arms that are, say 5-8 inches long instead of ones that would hold the hub right at the frame?

 

[fractal]

thanks; i had seen those actually, and i'm just over in ottawa so it's prby what i'll end up getting... Do you think the mounting points for the dropouts are strong enough to extend the frame geometry by making torque arms that are, say 5-8 inches long instead of ones that would hold the hub right at the frame?

Up close they look pretty strong, but 8 inches with a 30 pound x54...would probably work with extra support that could extend beyond where the torque arm attaches to the swingarm just to be safe. Also, if you plan on using large tires, the edges would be pretty close to the swingarm because of the wheel being moved back of its original position. If you want, I could send you more pics.

 

[sn0wchyld]

i can't wait to see your torque arm design . I am also considering using an a-line frame for a 5403 build, mostly because with the bolt on dropouts you can manufacture your own.

lol, and im considering putting my 404 in mine... ill give you a heads up though, they're a pita to mount bats to, the curvy frame makes for some interesting challenges. The rear dropouts are great though. I don't even need axle nuts!!

how much did you pay for the rear shock frac? and any hints on where/how your mounting stuff to the frame?

edit
andje, just realised that you dont need a frame mounting option!

 

[fractal]

i can't wait to see your torque arm design . I am also considering using an a-line frame for a 5403 build, mostly because with the bolt on dropouts you can manufacture your own.

lol, and im considering putting my 404 in mine... ill give you a heads up though, they're a pita to mount bats to, the curvy frame makes for some interesting challenges. The rear dropouts are great though. I don't even need axle nuts!!

how much did you pay for the rear shock frac? and any hints on where/how your mounting stuff to the frame?

edit
andje, just realised that you dont need a frame mounting option!

I got the rear shock for 225$ cdn. For the batts, I will make a box with either acrylic or Lexan. It will mount on either side of the frame kind of like a gas tank. Each side will have six bricks. Andje's backpack idea looks also interesting also. I have decided to stay away from fiberglass, too many steps, too many fumes, too many messes. IMO, black acrylic will give it a nice clean look and its very strong too. The only thing, I'll have to get a saw blade that is made to cut it. If you cut it with a regular blade, it will burn the edges.

 

[fractal]

BIG MISTAKE!!!! SHIT HAPPENS

I was making a bit of sapce between the windings and stator for the hall effect sensor wires. Numb nuts (duh, that would be me) tried to do it by sticking a nail in it and cut one of the windings It took me a week to get over it. Now I'm waiting for another motor. SHIT!!!! A very hard lesson learned. At least I will be able to use a couple of the modded components like the side covers, ...etc.

 

[Andje]

well friend, that is the worst.

I think there are plastic tools called "spudgers" (i think that's it?) used for removing components from pcb boards. They are little plastic levers designed to not hurt metal; Ive used one to slowly lever winding's up without breaking them.

That truly sucks... Re-winding is a huge hassle if you can figure it out at all. You could rewind it with much better magnet wire though, so for a couple hundred bucks in wire and about 100 hours of trial and error you'd prbly have a better motor then when you started .

 

[fractal]

well friend, that is the worst.

I think there are plastic tools called "spudgers" (i think that's it?) used for removing components from pcb boards. They are little plastic levers designed to not hurt metal; Ive used one to slowly lever winding's up without breaking them.

That truly sucks... Re-winding is a huge hassle if you can figure it out at all. You could rewind it with much better magnet wire though, so for a couple hundred bucks in wire and about 100 hours of trial and error you'd prbly have a better motor then when you started .

I wish I had the time and knowledge to do that. Oh well! I will think twice before fooling around inside my new motor. At least, I got most of it right (temp probe, phase wires, side covers)

 

[fractal]

A NEW BEGINNING!!! ( well...not quite)
Got my new motor after wrecking the other one!!! All I need to do now is grind out the axle, put 12awg phase wires, install hall sensors and temp probe. I WILL BE EXTRA CAREFUL OF NOT SCREWING THIS ONE UP Will start on this ASAP (I cant wait to work on those dropouts!!!)

 

[Dlogic]

YOU'VE GOT MAIL!!!! Just got a bunch of stuff today for my build!!! Check it out!!!!

My god mate, that 24 fet looks bigger than my entire batt case!!! Where the hell are you going to mount that?

I had that same problem. Tried to mount that thing on the underside of my bomber. Well, there´s a solution, i´ve figured out. It´s a lot of work, as usual when you want it to work well. I´ll post the information here soon.

 

[oatnet]

Are the removable factory dropouts steel or aluminum?

-JD

 

[sn0wchyld]

Are the removable factory dropouts steel or aluminum?

-JD

ally mate. why do you ask?

 

[fractal]

yeah aluminium. they dont look like they could take the abuse of a powerful hub without extensive modding because if you look at the inside part of the dropout (the side that is facing the wheel) they are hollowed out. they probably did that to cut the weight.

 

[oatnet]

Are the removable factory dropouts steel or aluminum?

ally mate. why do you ask?

'cause I just bought one too. .

Been eyeing that very frame on eBay for a while, specifically for the replaceable dropouts, but I only saw listings for small and medium. Recently I saw they had listed a size large so I jump in it - $400, free shipping.

I was hoping i could just have the dropouts milled, oh well. If I can get steel dropouts made up in time, it'll be a nice test mule for the croation motor. 8)

-JD

 

[fractal]

Are the removable factory dropouts steel or aluminum?

ally mate. why do you ask?

'cause I just bought one too. .

Been eyeing that very frame on eBay for a while, specifically for the replaceable dropouts, but I only saw listings for small and medium. Recently I saw they had listed a size large so I jump in it - $400, free shipping.

I was hoping i could just have the dropouts milled, oh well. If I can get steel dropouts made up in time, it'll be a nice test mule for the croation motor. 8)

-JD

NICE!!!! I think it makes for an awesome build!!! Enjoy

 

[sn0wchyld]

Are the removable factory dropouts steel or aluminum?

ally mate. why do you ask?

'cause I just bought one too. .

Been eyeing that very frame on eBay for a while, specifically for the replaceable dropouts, but I only saw listings for small and medium. Recently I saw they had listed a size large so I jump in it - $400, free shipping.

I was hoping i could just have the dropouts milled, oh well. If I can get steel dropouts made up in time, it'll be a nice test mule for the croation motor. 8)

-JD

nice mate, really wish i got a large (But the med was on special and all that was available so oh well...). The dropouts were a bit time consuming for me, being my first time working with steel, but damit they work well!! You really never worry about axle spin, even when the nutts come loose!!

 

[fractal]

It starts with an idea.
I've been fooling around with sketchup finding ways to mount the controller and the battery box. I will make a box for the controller and the batteries with acrylic. Here is an idea of what it will look like.

 

[Andje]

I would keep in mind airflow over the controller will be important. Is that a true to scale cad drawing of the a line medium frame? did you do it?

 

[fractal]

I would keep in mind airflow over the controller will be important. Is that a true to scale cad drawing of the a line medium frame? did you do it?

Good idea on the airflow for the controller, will definately do that. I did not design the frame, I found it on the google Sketcup website, Its actually a Norco Shore wich is very similar to the A-line. There are a ton of models of all kinds of things. As for the scale, it looks pretty accurate. I dont know what size it is, but its close. To give you an idea, the battery box holds 6 bricks on each side for 24s 3p. When I measured it on the actual frame (30 cm in lenght), it looked pretty much like what you see on the drawing.

 

[sn0wchyld]

It starts with an idea.
I've been fooling around with sketchup finding ways to mount the controller and the battery box. I will make a box for the controller and the batteries with acrylic. Here is an idea of what it will look like.

hey mate, nice pics! I might have to try my hand at some cad over the holidays!

I'd try to bring some of the cells down allong the lower tube of your frame, It makes the wiring more of a pita but I found that the handling was notably poorer with the battery's in the old position on my bike compared to where they are now (mostly along the lower down tube).

any movement on the dropouts? im keen to see what someone else comes up with!!

 

[fractal]

It starts with an idea.
I've been fooling around with sketchup finding ways to mount the controller and the battery box. I will make a box for the controller and the batteries with acrylic. Here is an idea of what it will look like.

hey mate, nice pics! I might have to try my hand at some cad over the holidays!

I'd try to bring some of the cells down allong the lower tube of your frame, It makes the wiring more of a pita but I found that the handling was notably poorer with the battery's in the old position on my bike compared to where they are now (mostly along the lower down tube).

any movement on the dropouts? im keen to see what someone else comes up with!!

Good idea sn0wchyld, taking the COG down will certainly improve the handling. Because of the setbacks I've had with the motor, I'm not quite ready for the dropouts yet. I got my new motor and now I have to change the phase wires and add hall sensors before I work on the dropouts. The good news is that winter is coming here so there will be plenty of time to work on it.