full sus bikes best suited for ebike
- Thread starter flyinmonkie
- Start date
magudaman
10 kW
I have been spending a ton of time looking the perfect conversion bike. I am looking for bikes similar to the ones you post but more for the downhill enthusiast. So I have been finding more and more that older bike usually are more suited for my needs for conversion. The reason is that I am looking to have more room in frame for mounting equipment such as my motor, batteries, and controller. I continue to look until I find something at the right time.
flyinmonkie
10 kW
I agree, the older bikes tend to have less of the suspension in the frame. I liked these 2 as none of the rear suspension is in the frame allowing full use of the triangle. That solves the issue of not having enough room between the seat tube and the rear wheel as you could put the motor and gear box in the triangle. A little more suspension travel would be nice, but without building a frame it is hard to get everything.
Another idea I had was to use a 29er and put 26 inch wheels on it. With the frame made for 29 inch wheels, you may get around having to shorten the cranks. they haven't been around long enough to find them cheap though.
FM
Another idea I had was to use a 29er and put 26 inch wheels on it. With the frame made for 29 inch wheels, you may get around having to shorten the cranks. they haven't been around long enough to find them cheap though.
FM
NeilP
1 GW
Anyone know a name or model for the Merida?
panurge
10 kW
These series of merida is named MISSION in many years and variants, if I'm not wrong. but also if is an interesting solution for small travel, sincerely I dont like the weigh distributions on the swingarms....
I found this one near me....
http://cgi.ebay.it/Bici-mtb-Merida-Mission-Comp-Full-Suspended-Shimano-/320729302603?pt=Biciclette&hash=item4aacf4c64b
Have a nice day
Jules
I found this one near me....
http://cgi.ebay.it/Bici-mtb-Merida-Mission-Comp-Full-Suspended-Shimano-/320729302603?pt=Biciclette&hash=item4aacf4c64b
Have a nice day
Jules
dannyboyohyeah
100 W
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 157
I have two bikes I'm converting. One, I call the thoroghbred stallion...the other ....my Li'l Mule. C9 & BMC torque motors...I guess you know the BMC is my Mule. It'll claw it's way over any mountain I put in front of it...but it is not an open triange-frame bike at all....so it took awhile to see how to build the midframe battery enclosure. (photos coming soon). I am just finishing the diamondback battery enclosure for my thoroughbred...and I am so stoked about how it came out. It has inspired me to be ridiculous with design.....but I was dreading this part of the build for quite awhile.
I stayed up an entire night...sitting on an overturned bucked....just staring at the Mule....trying to figure out how on earth to build the battery suitcase. But the pictures started coming. Never get discouraged....it's always just a matter of thought and inventiveness, I see. I'm going to post a tutorial on "Fred Flinstone" battery enclosure that is made out've whatever I had on hand....the end result being honorable enough so that I am not ashamed. My idea is to buy whatever bike you love for some stupid reason and figure the rest out later. Flat, broad dropouts are valuable for torque-plates...but other than that...a deal is a deal.
On both my bikes....I consider that the front forks are a place to add more battery pack. It keeps me out've wheelie mode, which I feel is quite important. But on the thoroghbred, I've got a sweet, tidy encloure that is made for a 12s 4p starter set of Lipos...but there's enough room in there to upgrade to 15s with narrow, 3s augments. I am going to offer enclosures for sale...but also show everyone how to make a cheap, but elegant one. Your choice.
I see that on this bike you've got posted...the angle between seatube and toptube is possible perfect 90 degrees, which makes the enclose much easier to make. Isoslese is very nice, carpentry-wise. But a rare luxury in bikes. I would go for it.
My mule is a totally cheapo Mongoose that I bought off a homeless lady who was pushing it down the sidewalk with both, frayed and busted brake cables wound around the handlebars and it was obviously way too big for her anyway. Dual susp....pogo stick rear susp which is still so much softer than a hardtail to hit potholes on. But the frame is really tough. I asked her if she wanted to sell it right now. Her eyes lit up and she said 20$? I said...I've got $24 on me right now...how's that? that's how I got that one. Upgraded everything and now it feels delicious. I'm buying a Rail Trail frame this week for $20. Next one. Geeze.....patience is the sauce of life. Best of luck....endure on Craigslist till you find an absurd deal.
I stayed up an entire night...sitting on an overturned bucked....just staring at the Mule....trying to figure out how on earth to build the battery suitcase. But the pictures started coming. Never get discouraged....it's always just a matter of thought and inventiveness, I see. I'm going to post a tutorial on "Fred Flinstone" battery enclosure that is made out've whatever I had on hand....the end result being honorable enough so that I am not ashamed. My idea is to buy whatever bike you love for some stupid reason and figure the rest out later. Flat, broad dropouts are valuable for torque-plates...but other than that...a deal is a deal.
On both my bikes....I consider that the front forks are a place to add more battery pack. It keeps me out've wheelie mode, which I feel is quite important. But on the thoroghbred, I've got a sweet, tidy encloure that is made for a 12s 4p starter set of Lipos...but there's enough room in there to upgrade to 15s with narrow, 3s augments. I am going to offer enclosures for sale...but also show everyone how to make a cheap, but elegant one. Your choice.
I see that on this bike you've got posted...the angle between seatube and toptube is possible perfect 90 degrees, which makes the enclose much easier to make. Isoslese is very nice, carpentry-wise. But a rare luxury in bikes. I would go for it.
My mule is a totally cheapo Mongoose that I bought off a homeless lady who was pushing it down the sidewalk with both, frayed and busted brake cables wound around the handlebars and it was obviously way too big for her anyway. Dual susp....pogo stick rear susp which is still so much softer than a hardtail to hit potholes on. But the frame is really tough. I asked her if she wanted to sell it right now. Her eyes lit up and she said 20$? I said...I've got $24 on me right now...how's that? that's how I got that one. Upgraded everything and now it feels delicious. I'm buying a Rail Trail frame this week for $20. Next one. Geeze.....patience is the sauce of life. Best of luck....endure on Craigslist till you find an absurd deal.
NeilP
1 GW
Thanks Guys. Look forward to those pics
I have my bike built up now and way, on a hard tail Mongoose, but always on the lok out for a full sus bike to suit. I spent £200 on my bike battery box..full triangle box filling the frame, in stainless steel.
So I do not paln to scrap that unless I find the exact ideal bike. i have transport now, so any future build on a full sus bike is just because I can. SO I can afford to wait for the perfect frame to turn up.
I have my bike built up now and way, on a hard tail Mongoose, but always on the lok out for a full sus bike to suit. I spent £200 on my bike battery box..full triangle box filling the frame, in stainless steel.
So I do not paln to scrap that unless I find the exact ideal bike. i have transport now, so any future build on a full sus bike is just because I can. SO I can afford to wait for the perfect frame to turn up.
NeilP
1 GW
Just bought myself a Merida Mission on e-bay. I had two other choice of frames, but then saw this on e-bay. Had been trying to get one of these for a while, then as I was about to start building on the Shogun frame in the first pic, e-bay search sent me an e-mail with this frame.
This is the actual frame I bought
These two pics jsut show close ups of the Rear Sus arrangement on other similar bikes
View attachment 2
This is the actual frame I bought
These two pics jsut show close ups of the Rear Sus arrangement on other similar bikes
View attachment 2
TorEddy
100 W
Rocky Mountain has several bikes named Element, which have the shock under the top tube.
That gives plenty off room for electronics in the main triangle.
Not enough travel for my taste though..
That gives plenty off room for electronics in the main triangle.
Not enough travel for my taste though..
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Here's a thread with many pages of suggestions. Other than needing steel drop-outs for a rear hub, the main theme seems to be having a decently large volume in the frame triangle in order to put a battery pack there. There have been two long threads about this, but both were recently cross-posted so each has a link to the other.
"SUITABLE FULL SUSPENSION FRAMES?" (6 pages)
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32056
"Best Full Suspension ebike Frames" (2 pages)
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28151
"SUITABLE FULL SUSPENSION FRAMES?" (6 pages)
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=32056
"Best Full Suspension ebike Frames" (2 pages)
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28151
NeilP
1 GW
That Rocky Mountain frame still has the shock in the triangle though.
I just tried my 20s4p pack of 8 x 10s packs in the Merida frame and no sure they will fit ...but I plan to build a different pack so ..not an issue... I hope. I had wanted to go with 34s2p on that bike..but yet to see if I can fit them in
I just tried my 20s4p pack of 8 x 10s packs in the Merida frame and no sure they will fit ...but I plan to build a different pack so ..not an issue... I hope. I had wanted to go with 34s2p on that bike..but yet to see if I can fit them in
Grey beard
100 W
This is the bike i picked uo for a full suspesion bike. I can get two 48v, 13ah ea batteries from Allcell in the triangle by standing one verticle along the seat bar, and the other fits under the top bar, with the 4" width to keep the package nice and narrow. Gives me 26 AHs total. the bike is a Gt-LTS.
Sorry about directing you to another site, but I'm on my iPad and although the pictures are in it, I can't find a way to attach them.
http://motorbicycling.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52220&d=1349131099
Sorry about directing you to another site, but I'm on my iPad and although the pictures are in it, I can't find a way to attach them.
http://motorbicycling.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52220&d=1349131099
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Awesome frame, Greybeard. GT-LTS Google found 1996-99 so far. An MTB review found it to be very strong and rigid, can take a downhill pounding, aluminum?
Grey beard
100 W
The bike frame is quite stout with excellent welds, and as you can see in the pic, all the corners are well gusseted. It is all alloy. The front of the chain stay is cnc as are the dropouts. I wouldn't think it was an "as is" for a hub motor of any consequence, although the dropouts are about 7/16" wide, but I'm going midmount.
The GT LTS-1 was ridden to some (DH MTB Pro) victories in it's day by Mike King (former BMX champ at the time).
The rear shock is a Rockshox, the front is Marzocchi.
I found it cruising eBay one day and thought it would work good for a future build, and as nobody else bid, the price was quite reasonable. It didn't come quite so shiny, but an afternoon of work has brought it along nicely.
The GT LTS-1 was ridden to some (DH MTB Pro) victories in it's day by Mike King (former BMX champ at the time).
The rear shock is a Rockshox, the front is Marzocchi.
I found it cruising eBay one day and thought it would work good for a future build, and as nobody else bid, the price was quite reasonable. It didn't come quite so shiny, but an afternoon of work has brought it along nicely.
NeilP
1 GW
Well here is an initial build of my Merida Mission Speed frame..it is a 20 inch frame, not as big as I had hoped..but full open triangle..not sure that I will fit 34s3p in there though. Controller to fit under seat post rear rack.. a 24 FET 4115 controller. Motor 5405 in 17 x 1.4 inch motorcycle rim with 2.25 tyre. New rim on order,,same size but black alloy, I went for 88mm spokes with ERD of 418..but I think I may need shorter spokes..85mm maybe. Not trued or tensioned the wheel yet just laced it, vague tightening to same length and stuck the tyre on.
Going to have to get a V3 CA for this build, with the THUN sensor BB
Going to have to get a V3 CA for this build, with the THUN sensor BB
dannyboyohyeah
100 W
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 157
I'd never thought about this before, but was reading on the MTB forum about frame failures.
Some dual susp bikes have the rear shock attached to the top-tube in the forward triangle. This can leave a decent amount of space in the triangle just below, for an enclosure. However, without the reinforcement of the rear chainstays coming up behind the seatpost (as with a hardtail), this constant stress and action of the frame seems to contribute to failure at the toptube/seatpost tube junction. Unless well gussetted. Add the weight and momentum of a big hubmotor, I can only imagine things getting worse. IF trying to configure an enclosure in a relatively generous frame, even with shock occupying a portion of it, I would opt for the seatpost-tube connection point of the shock, for this reason. There is no welded joint to come apart within the area of it's forces.
I suppose we are all on the same track as to what an ideal dual-susp frame looks like, but sometimes a great deal comes along and you compromise abit. You might want to keep this in mind, as to such a decision though.
Some dual susp bikes have the rear shock attached to the top-tube in the forward triangle. This can leave a decent amount of space in the triangle just below, for an enclosure. However, without the reinforcement of the rear chainstays coming up behind the seatpost (as with a hardtail), this constant stress and action of the frame seems to contribute to failure at the toptube/seatpost tube junction. Unless well gussetted. Add the weight and momentum of a big hubmotor, I can only imagine things getting worse. IF trying to configure an enclosure in a relatively generous frame, even with shock occupying a portion of it, I would opt for the seatpost-tube connection point of the shock, for this reason. There is no welded joint to come apart within the area of it's forces.
I suppose we are all on the same track as to what an ideal dual-susp frame looks like, but sometimes a great deal comes along and you compromise abit. You might want to keep this in mind, as to such a decision though.
NeilP
1 GW
Also going to depend on where and how you use the bike.
I won't be taking big air on my bike, if for no other reason than as I am now 45 years old and don't bounce as well as I used to when things go wrong and I part company with the bike mod flight.
won't even be planning on much kerb jumping..for me the full bounce is just fo comfort of the rear end..both mine and the bikes !
I won't be taking big air on my bike, if for no other reason than as I am now 45 years old and don't bounce as well as I used to when things go wrong and I part company with the bike mod flight.
won't even be planning on much kerb jumping..for me the full bounce is just fo comfort of the rear end..both mine and the bikes !
dannyboyohyeah
100 W
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 157
Neil~
My very first full-susp bike was also my first ebike. It was a cheezy Mongoose, but it had steel rear triangle, ideal dropouts for torquers, and a boing-boing non-damping rear spring. I put XT on the whole thing, repainted the frame, it was my absolute pride and joy. On the roadway, during it's VERY brief history, no potholes seemed to pose a threat of bouncing me out've the saddle. To me, that spring alone, was so cush, compared to what I was so used to.
Unfortunately, on it's maiden voyage into town (20 miles away over STEEP and narrow roads)....I had TWO locks on it in town and it got stolen while having lunch with a friend. My point being, that I would still go for such a bike again, possibly....if another $25 deal came along. Losing a $25 bike is never losing a $25 bike once you've got motor and batteries on 'er....but it sure stings less to lose yer thrasher than a very nice bike. I learned my lesson about locks. It cost me enough so I won't forget. Boing-boing-boing.
My very first full-susp bike was also my first ebike. It was a cheezy Mongoose, but it had steel rear triangle, ideal dropouts for torquers, and a boing-boing non-damping rear spring. I put XT on the whole thing, repainted the frame, it was my absolute pride and joy. On the roadway, during it's VERY brief history, no potholes seemed to pose a threat of bouncing me out've the saddle. To me, that spring alone, was so cush, compared to what I was so used to.
Unfortunately, on it's maiden voyage into town (20 miles away over STEEP and narrow roads)....I had TWO locks on it in town and it got stolen while having lunch with a friend. My point being, that I would still go for such a bike again, possibly....if another $25 deal came along. Losing a $25 bike is never losing a $25 bike once you've got motor and batteries on 'er....but it sure stings less to lose yer thrasher than a very nice bike. I learned my lesson about locks. It cost me enough so I won't forget. Boing-boing-boing.
christerljung
100 W
Ivé tried Three different frames; Kona Stinky(2004), Specialized bighit(2004) and a Scott Gambler(2009).
The Bighit didnt have room for batteries, i had a backpackbatt. The suspension had a ridicculous swaying when accellerating. Otherwise that frame was very smooth on the trails.
Kona Stinky is nice but feels a Little weak for jumps. The triangle fits 24S Lipo 5Ah.
Scott Gambler is superior for battery mount underneath the frame. But the fork-angle is too much downhilloriented, feels like a HD-chopper on the flat.
The Bighit didnt have room for batteries, i had a backpackbatt. The suspension had a ridicculous swaying when accellerating. Otherwise that frame was very smooth on the trails.
Kona Stinky is nice but feels a Little weak for jumps. The triangle fits 24S Lipo 5Ah.
Scott Gambler is superior for battery mount underneath the frame. But the fork-angle is too much downhilloriented, feels like a HD-chopper on the flat.
dannyboyohyeah
100 W
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 157
Neil~
I would sure go for the Mission Merida if I could find one I consider affordable. ($350 or less). I'd like to see the torqueplates you worked out for it, if you've gotten to that. What a perfect ebike, I'd say. The particular one you got is somewhat more ideal than flyingmonkey's model, because the triangle is larger without that diagonal seattube brace. Still looks very stout.
I would sure go for the Mission Merida if I could find one I consider affordable. ($350 or less). I'd like to see the torqueplates you worked out for it, if you've gotten to that. What a perfect ebike, I'd say. The particular one you got is somewhat more ideal than flyingmonkey's model, because the triangle is larger without that diagonal seattube brace. Still looks very stout.
crossbreak
1 MW
centurion did the same LRS. I have a 120mm travel fully, i like it.
If I would buy a frame for a offroad bike, my choice would be a cheetah ignition. The rear dropout is quite simple to customize. Sadly it feels on the street "like a chopper" just as Scott the Gambler.
If I would buy a frame for a offroad bike, my choice would be a cheetah ignition. The rear dropout is quite simple to customize. Sadly it feels on the street "like a chopper" just as Scott the Gambler.
k-harvey
100 W
I think the especially front suspension suits for the new 750 w Bafang mid drive --u want performance go mid drive My next will be this on full suspension I've done full suspension with cyclone 500 3wheeol kits but that's where I prefer battery & that's to keep it up front as low pos.
Did you ever hit the motor on logs,rocks,etc?
