Fusin Motors /WorldWide Electric Bikes 48V 10AH Kit Review

Dan K said:
Hi All,

Just wanted to bump this up, let you all know I have not forgotten about you. Since I last posted I have bought 2 seperate MTBs, and the wheel didn't fit in either properly. One there was too much rotational play, like the one I had my crash with. The second the area from the flat of the dropout to the bottom of the fork leg was not high enough, so the locking washer hit the fork tube and couldn't fit smoothly. Then, I crashed my motorcycle in a race, and have been laid up a little bit. I'm back to about 90% now, and don't have another motorcycle race for a month or so (raced last weekend but no crashes, fortunately) so I'm back on the hunt. I'm going to look at another possible candidate tonight or tomorrow, this time I'm taking the wheel with me (the first two were just bikes I saw cheap and grabbed up unplanned, so I didn't have the wheel). If this one works I'll continue the review tomorrow or the day after. If not I may have to go to wal-mart with the wheel and some tools and see if they've got something that fits, I've been focusing on bikes of pretty good quality so far and the forks are just not working.

I'll be back with updates soon. I have the new pack and am anxious to continue this review.

Dan
Click to expand...

Good to hear you're still pluggin' away :). Neither of my motors fit in the forks right away. The fork dropouts on both of my converted bikes were just under 10mm so I had to remove the layer of paint to get the motor axle in. To get the motor axle to go all the way into the dropouts required a bit more filing to re-radius the top arch since they were designed for conventional 9mm axles.

-R
 
Sadly, the strong forks seem to be all on cheapo bikes, with 1" headsets. You might find something in a bmx fork for a 26" wheel bike, but your wheel is a 700 c right? I saw some sorta adequate bikes in the 700c size in Kmart. One was a huffy magellan commuter bike. It had the steel suspension forks I have liked. When I mounted up my 36v fusin, I found the smaller motor size just fit into the cheap steel forks without having to modify them. I have about 370 miles on my fusin now. I have found these cheap steel suspension forks to be the best kind for the front hub bolts and washers. Beefy. Other types, use a more maleable metal on the dropout. The suspension forks are a tube that is squashed around a flat plate so there is actually three seperate layers of strong steel in the dropout. A crack in one layer, and the other two layers are still cherry. I like that.
 
dogman said:
Sadly, the strong forks seem to be all on cheapo bikes, with 1" headsets. You might find something in a bmx fork for a 26" wheel bike, but your wheel is a 700 c right? I saw some sorta adequate bikes in the 700c size in Kmart. One was a huffy magellan commuter bike. It had the steel suspension forks I have liked. When I mounted up my 36v fusin, I found the smaller motor size just fit into the cheap steel forks without having to modify them. I have about 370 miles on my fusin now. I have found these cheap steel suspension forks to be the best kind for the front hub bolts and washers. Beefy. Other types, use a more maleable metal on the dropout. The suspension forks are a tube that is squashed around a flat plate so there is actually three seperate layers of strong steel in the dropout. A crack in one layer, and the other two layers are still cherry. I like that.
Click to expand...

I'm done trying to use the 700C bike for this, the next build will be a typical 26" MTB. If this one doesn't work I'll probably just bring it to *mart and find some cheap-o it'll work in.
 
Russell said:
Dan K said:
Hi All,

Just wanted to bump this up, let you all know I have not forgotten about you. Since I last posted I have bought 2 seperate MTBs, and the wheel didn't fit in either properly. One there was too much rotational play, like the one I had my crash with. The second the area from the flat of the dropout to the bottom of the fork leg was not high enough, so the locking washer hit the fork tube and couldn't fit smoothly. Then, I crashed my motorcycle in a race, and have been laid up a little bit. I'm back to about 90% now, and don't have another motorcycle race for a month or so (raced last weekend but no crashes, fortunately) so I'm back on the hunt. I'm going to look at another possible candidate tonight or tomorrow, this time I'm taking the wheel with me (the first two were just bikes I saw cheap and grabbed up unplanned, so I didn't have the wheel). If this one works I'll continue the review tomorrow or the day after. If not I may have to go to wal-mart with the wheel and some tools and see if they've got something that fits, I've been focusing on bikes of pretty good quality so far and the forks are just not working.

I'll be back with updates soon. I have the new pack and am anxious to continue this review.

Dan
Click to expand...

Good to hear you're still pluggin' away :). Neither of my motors fit in the forks right away. The fork dropouts on both of my converted bikes were just under 10mm so I had to remove the layer of paint to get the motor axle in. To get the motor axle to go all the way into the dropouts required a bit more filing to re-radius the top arch since they were designed for conventional 9mm axles.

-R
Click to expand...

I'm having the exact opposite issue: the space in the drops is too big so the axle can rotate. That's how I got thrown the first time around. We'll see how tonights bike works out.
 
In a way, you have a problem if the axle needs a tight fit to not rotate. The nut needs to pinch the dropout tight enough to not rotate just from the friction. If it can slip any, it's too loose, and if it loosens itslef the fit is wrong. But yeah, I'd keep lookng for a fork that fits good too! belt and suspenders is good thinking. I've been keeping a close eye on mine since your experience, but mine is staying tight just fine, like the other motors on similar forks. 400 miles as of today. I'm liking the motor a lot, but wish I was testing the 48v. The 36 v has less voltage and a weaker amps controller. 36v kit is 16 amp, 48 v kit is 22 amp. With the 36v controller, I get to pedal a bit on hills.
 
dan, you need to make sure you have strong torque arm which is tightened in the opposite direction to the force exerted by the axle when the wheel is pushing back at the bottom in contact with the road. this force wants to break out the front bottom side of the dropout so you need to have the torque arm taking all the slack out the other way.

file the lawyer lips flat, file the dropouts deep on the shoulders and take off the side of the axle that bottoms out in the dropout. in fact you should file the shoulder of the dropout and the axle on those sides so they are essentially a square, so the axle is as deep into the dropout as possible so there is no empty space in the corner, file the dropout square down there and file the threads on the axle down so it is flat on that side too then whack it all the way down tight and then set your torque arm as tight as possible to prevent it from moving at all under load. so it will stay in place even when the nut is loose, then tighten the nut as tight as possible with out stripping, remember 1/2 the threads are gone already.
 
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