FVT Settings and cogging issues - Fixed, solutions & stuff.

[bandaro]

EDIT: Most solved, read through for your own troubleshooting, but still getting a sudden screeching sound when making more than about 1500 watts. It's not the regular motor winding up and getting louder, any ideas what it is and how it can be fixed? Means I am always backing off when it happens, going slower... Also does it on braking.


G'day guys, been playing around on my board, swapped over from a dlux esc to dual FVT 120a recently, running dual rear motors. It's a "low" power setup, geared for 40kph (hitting 38)

I'm running the stock settings on the esc's currently, and wondering what you guys are running, hoping to cut out a bit of legwork.without load both motors will wind up fine, but sometimes one will sit there stuttering and/or screeching at me, or one will kick in earlier/later than the other. Will this be an issue with the esc-remote calibration or the esc settings?

Trying to get everything all winded in and humming nicely, so any suggestions would be great!



Random specs: Using a proto deck with included batteries compartment ('The Baseboard', looking into producing more), LED lit power button, single charge plug (can plug in a cell checker when running), 220wh, about 20km range?, trialling my printed remote housing, 90mm wheels and 3m9gt belts. Testing a few things currently in terms of motor mounts - m4 and m5 screws, different shapes and clamp methods, trying to find the most reliable way. What I have learnt so far is phillips head bolts don't cut it - use allen key heads or they don't get tight enough.

Edit: Changed title to hopefully help others in the search.

 

[sl33py]

do you have the programming card for it?
http://www.rcjuice.com/lcd-program-card-for-fvt-car-escs/

UICKLY AND EASILY ACCESS THE FOLLOWING SETTINGS:

Motor Timing: Very Low, Low, Normal, High, Very High
Acceleration: Low, Medium, High, Very High
Running Mode: Forward/Brake, Forward/Reverse/Brake, Forward/Reverse
Brake Force: 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 100%
Drag Brake: 0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%
Cut-Off Voltage: 2.6V/cell, 2.8v/cell, 3.0v/cell, 3.2v/cell, 3.4v/cell
Max Forward Force: 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 100%
Max Reverse Force: 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 100%
Motor Rotation: Normal, Reverse
Neutral Range: 3%, 5%, 7%, 9%
Battery Type: NiMh, LiPo


I'd guess you need to adjust timing. Don't have that ESC so can't make recommendations there.

HTH - GL!

 

[bandaro]

Yup, I got the card with the esc's. I'll lower the timing and initial acceleration thanks, I was just wondering what settings others had found work well then could start from there.


I will try hard wiring the battery-esc to remove the relay and see if this helps, but the relay is rated for 80 amps and it struggles much lower than that or without any load whatsoever. EDIT - Tried, same issue. The system is struggling to get more speed when more load is applied. For example, running one way (slight uphill) I get stutters/squeals/cogs earlier in the throttle range to going back. If only has the issue from standing when its on the work bench, once spinning winds out fine. Shall I get a video or is someone familiar with the problem?


For reference, the stock settings for the Brave Wolf I(and my current) are:

Motor Timing: High
Initial Acceleration: High
Running Mode: Forward with pause then reverse
Percentage breaking: 50%
Percentage drag brake: 0%
Cut-off voltage: 3.0V/Cell
Throttle limit: 100%
Throttle percent reverse: 40%
Motor rotation: Forward
Neutral Range: 9%

Edit: This was something, but I recalibrated the transmitter and it seems to have fixed the battery voltage error somehow...

Also, for people familiar with the esc, I have noticed something: one esc has a solid green LED that turns off when the motor is spinning (either power or hand) while the other esc has a red-green flashing light when stationary and a red-blank flashing while it's spinning. According to the manual, this means the battery voltage "is not within normal range", but the other esc says it is fine, as does the charger/cell checker/multimeter?

 

[onloop]

What kv motors?
How many teeth on motor pulley?
& Wheel pully?
what voltage?
How much do you weigh?

I found that 9mm is too narrow for 3mm pitch.

 

[made_in_the_alps_legacy]

+1 w. Onloop (high kV and low transmission ratio would behave somehow like you describe)

Yup, I got the card with the esc's. I'll lower the timing and initial acceleration thanks, I was just wondering what settings others had found work well then could start from there.

I opened a topic last year about it, but it never catched up
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57068&p=851091&hilit=post+your#p851091
I guess there are too many possible "working" combination to suggests a generic one, so... keep trying different settings and make sure they are applied to both ESC

At this stage, you might also consider possible quality differences in your motors which make them behaving quite differently (an issue I had) I also Wonder how your ESC are commanded, Wii - ceiver ?

 

[bandaro]

What kv motors?
How many teeth on motor pulley?
& Wheel pully?
what voltage?
How much do you weigh?

I found that 9mm is too narrow for 3mm pitch.

200Kv, 28:56 tooth count, 6s and 73kg. 38.8 km/h on nominal voltage unloaded.

I'm not having issues with the belt yet, and the setup seems rock solid now, so hopefully it will handle fine. They are the gt3 belts not htd, so much stronger profile. Plus, I am getting a good degree of belt wrap on both pulleys with an optimal centre distance. I think 90% of belt issues are caused by not enough teeth engaged, not properly setup or flex in the mountings somewhere.

I opened a topic last year about it, but it never catched up
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=57068&p=851091&hilit=post+your#p851091
I guess there are too many possible "working" combination to suggests a generic one, so... keep trying different settings and make sure they are applied to both ESC

At this stage, you might also consider possible quality differences in your motors which make them behaving quite differently (an issue I had) I also Wonder how your ESC are commanded, Wii - ceiver ?

Yeah I'm playing around with the programming, keeping both the same settings. I'll post up what works best for me when I have tried them all

Hard to say when they are running, but on the bench it's both motors playing up occasionally, about evenly... But I'll keep track of them and see if it is different between each. Using a gt2E controller with a servo splitter between the receiver and esc's.

 

[bandaro]

OK, been fiddling around and having some success, highest recorded speed now is at the 35km/h mark (only tested a single run/setting so far). I am getting a nasty sounding screech at the higher end of the spectrum of both power and rpm. In the storm drains going the slight uphill I can't avoid it from around 1/2 throttle, but going the other way if I wind it up over 5 seconds or so I can avoid it altogether. Will test further, but it seems to be worse on the lower timing settings. Also get it on hard-ish braking. Stopped for some food and will go over all the mechanicals and make sure everything is still tight before I continue.

Current settings:

Motor Timing: High - still playing with this, but high gives full throttle range without overheating for me
Acceleration: Low
Running Mode: Forward/Brake
Brake Force: 70%
Drag Brake: 0%
Cut-Off Voltage: 3.2v/cell
Max Forward Force: 100%
Max Reverse Force: 40%
Motor Rotation: Reverse
Neutral Range: 9%
Battery Type: LiPo

General comments and thoughts:

Tested the "low" timing and it ran fine, but didn't throttle properly with load (always cutting out) from about halfway. Figured this was because of the low end torque so I bumped it up to "very high" and tried again. Pulled all the way through its throttle. Been winding it down one setting at a time since.

On "very high" timing, the motor was getting warm to touch, but doing the same run on "high" was noticeably cooler, "normal" cooler again.

I think I'll keep dropping the timing and monitoring temp/screeching/power cut out, see how the lower ones go and report back. Reporting: screeching doesn't change, temp continuously drops as does the throttle limit. For example, on "normal" I lose the top 10% throttle range (cuts out) 25% on low and 50% on very low.

Started having the red-green flashing error again, only about 30% of the time though, noticed it was only present on the second esc I switched on. Also, this esc started spinning slightly earlier, wound up faster, and then peaked at about 50% speed. Flicking both esc's on at the same time seems to solve these though. I don't want to cut the switches off as they also have the set button on them... My relay is playing up (cheap chinese junk, get what you pay for right?) so I am using the "old fashioned" switch and the esc ones. Reporting: Same time seems to have fixed it. Little annoying, but I'll mount them side by side and all will be good.

Both motors feel about the same temp, so I'm taking this as a sign they are both working about the same amount.

Thanks for the suggestions so far guys, does anyone have ideas on the screeching? I pushed through it once and still felt an increase in power, so it's not a motor clogging and cutting out completely I don't think.

 

[Tamatoa]

Hi,

I need some help in order to figure out what is wrong with my FVT ESC programming card.

I hooked it up using the middle port but it is stuck on this message:
"ESC Software Ver V1.00_150106"

I tried to push the Item and Value buttons but nothing happens, there is a change in the display only when I push the Default button (the following message appears: "Restore default Data OK") and also when I push the OK button ( the following message appears: "Save Data OK").

I also tried the other port but it is then stuck on the message : "ESC Model V1.00_121012"

Do you think my programming card is faulty? I also have the USB link but I use OS X and I can't find a version of their software for OS X.

Thanks,

Tamatoa

 

[bandaro]

Hey, I had the same thing with mine, but worked through it in the end. Can't remember exactly how I did it, but I think I got it without pressing the button. I'm away currently so can't check, but long story short I had a similar thing and found a way around so it shouldn't be the card. Have you tried using the other port?

 

[Groper]

I have tried one of the FVT escs on my skateboard, I found its settings to be unsuited to electric vehicles as the loading is higher and the acceleration curves are too steep. So the esc trips out on over current if your too quick with the throttle.
I have another unit which got a special custom program by FVT specifically for a skateboard. You may be able to email them and ask for the program and flash it to the unit via the USB link. This program has a very slow acceleration curve and it works well without tripping out by giving you throttle much more slowly.

If you hear squealing - check the pulley on the motor shaft! If the pulley can rotate when the motor generates large torque or counter torque for braking, you will hear a screeching sound and very little acceleration. I found I had to lock tite my pulleys or it's difficult to get them to secure on the shaft, the little grub screws don't really cut it.

If your sure it's not a mechanical issue like this, then I have no idea, neither of my FVT escs emit a squealing sound other than the normal hum from the high speed switching motor commutation.

Your settings for acceleration should be the lowest setting. - it's too too fast tho.
Motor timing should be normal through to very high- the lower settings below normal would cause the esc to cut out on my setup with 50mm out runner motor. The other settings are self explainatory but none of them will cause cogging or funny noises etc

 

[Tamatoa]

Hi,

Thanks your replies,

I will keep trying to connect it although I tried both ports. Maybe it will also work out like yours did so I can try the settings while I wait for FVT to reply to my email about the EV specific program that Groper mentioned.

I agree that the acceleration is quite hard, I almost got ejected one my first try but then this is my first e-board so I don't really know if that is normal.

 

[torqueboards]

It can also depend on what handheld transmitter/controller you are using which can change your throttle action. What controller are you using?

To program, make sure you do not have the esc signal wire connected to the receiver port. You should also use the ESC Programming Card as it makes life much easier.

 

[Tamatoa]

I have another unit which got a special custom program by FVT specifically for a skateboard. You may be able to email them and ask for the program and flash it to the unit via the USB link. This program has a very slow acceleration curve and it works well without tripping out by giving you throttle much more slowly.

Hi, FVT replied to my email and they said they do not have any custom program for EV at the moment. They might make one if they receive requests from many other customers.
Do you still have a copy of the one you are using? I would like to try it.

It can also depend on what handheld transmitter/controller you are using which can change your throttle action. What controller are you using?

To program, make sure you do not have the esc signal wire connected to the receiver port. You should also use the ESC Programming Card as it makes life much easier.

I am using the HK-GT2B, but I do not yet know how to use all the buttons or if it would have any effect playing with them.
As for the signal wire, I don't understand what you mean by that, there is only 1 wire right? And I have to use it to plug to the USB link or the program card, which by the way I haven't manage to get to access the programming menu yet.

 

[Groper]

Did you specifically tell them it was for a skateboard? The one i have came out of a production skateboard, so they may not release it to anyone else and breach the customer agreements etc.

Also, this program is not editable. They have locked me out from modifying it using the handheld card programmer, i havnt tried the USB link tho as i dont have one of those - and dont plan on getting one either as this ESC is a bit of a toy anyway. I need a much more powerful dual motor ESC for my plans

 

[bandaro]

So did you guys above get your settings sorted?

For reference, I'm running a much more powerful dual hub motor setup now, and found a few problems with the settings.

1) Probably the worst, if I pin it up hill, the voltage drop in the batteries is enough to set one or both of the controllers off, so they give minimal power until I reset them (off-on). This is more a problem with my batteries than the controller, but annoying none the less. Experimenting with setting a max power limit to 60% and haven't got the issue thus far.

2) Motor timing needed to be very high, the high setting I had previously gave throttle 'burps' at the higher end.

3) Just an FYI, peak draw is 123.94 amps, voltage sag down to 18.248v from a half charged pack, power 2335w, 6s batts, and much more efficient than my old belt setup, both under power and rolling free. Brakes are also set to 50% power, as it has far more response. Getting between 15-20wh/km with an average speed around 25-30.

OT: the stary board claims its gears make it able to brake harder than belt or non geared hub motors. Yet I only run 50% brake, so am a little unsure why I would want their harder breaking. With a neutral weight balance the board can almost throw me off when accelerating, brake is even harder...

 

[vince086]

I know this is a bit of an old thread but will try my luck.

I'm having the same issues as described by Tamatoa: the ESC programming card for a FVT 120A ESC is only displaying the software version.
Tried plugging it into the PC and programming it using that but no luck. The software will recognize the ESC and programming card, when I push send settings it returns "Ok" but the settings remain the same.
Picture of software: http://imgur.com/gallery/RdLoFNv/

If you have any ideas how to fix/program it ?

I had plugged the card into a faulty ESC so not sure if that may have damaged. If so I wouldn't expect the computer to recognize it.

 

[Tamatoa]

Hello Vince,

I never got the card to work with that ESC but I also gave up because it did work with the PC software version. I cannot recall if there was anything particular sign that shows it was successful tho. I know it worked from the PC because I set it to forward and brake instead of forward and reverse which was how it was when I received it. Maybe once it says ok you have to tutn the power off and back on again for the ESC to register the update in the settings. Like a reboot.

I don't have this board with me right now and would be able to check only in 2 weeks I will report back when I go back home and if you have not solbe your issue by then.

 

[vince086]

I've been trying with the PC but no luck, the ESC is stuck in Forwards only. Tired every possible combination of plugging/unplugging/rebooting and still nothing.
I don't mind getting a USB programmer off ebay (well expect for the delay and more money) but no guarantee it will work.
I'll try messing with it some more.

 

[bandaro]

I never got the issue you guys are having, but it seems it must be reasonably common then...

All I do is plug in the card, connect power, flip switch and away I go, scrolling through the items and selecting the setting for each, hit enter and everything works fine.

So basically I have no idea how to fix the error you have described, maybe try different order of operations? motor connected/disconnected? If you find a solution, be sure to post it up!

 

[vince086]

So basically I have no idea how to fix the error you have described, maybe try different order of operations? motor connected/disconnected? If you find a solution, be sure to post it up!

I've tried every order I can think off and still nothing.
My previous FVT ESC went up in a puff of smoke but the chances of receiving another dud are pretty slim. I'm guessing maybe when I plugged my broken ESC into the programming card it damaged it somehow ? (even though the receiver seems like it survived fine)

Bought a USB programmer to try. If that doesn't work, will return the ESC and consider getting a VESC as it seems to be highly praised.