Genesis V2100 Build

[cohberg]

This thread has been pretty overdue: finally got around to hashing it out.

Frame
Frame is a Genesis V2100. I bought it mainly because it was cheap and had a triangle that i could put batteries in.

I don't get the wally world bike bashing. I mean I stray regularly into the 50mph zone and go offroading on this bicycle. Frame is aluminum and I have had no problems with it so far. Fork headset is kinda lousy, but for $140 shipped what more can you ask for?

Tires

Kenda 838. Amazon Prime + Cheap =)

Motor
I purchased a kit from ebay, again mainly because it was cheap. The motor that came with it was a HSB36V800W.
Pushing 6kw through the motor seems to not make it happy. Melted phase wires, blown halls and hall wires lead to phase wire replacements. The new phase and halls wires are 16 gauge magnet wire (3 strands for each phase, a single strand for the halls).

Batteries
I initially ran an 36V 3s1p 8ah that would sag to LVC almost immediately. I added another 8ah in parallel for 36V3s2p 16ah. This helped out a lot with the LVC cutoff.

Next step was to add even more SLA batteries. 48V 4s2p pack 16ah.

At this point I had a lot of weight. And decided to switch to lipo.

I started with 24s1p 5ah (5x 5000mah 5s Turnigy 20C Batteries). Later updates lead to a 24s3p (5x 5000mah 5s and 12x 4000mah 4s Turnigy 20C Batteries).

Charger
Bulk charger is a 8x 585W IBM Power Supplies with a Meanwell S-150-5V-30A as a current limiter.

Controller

Went through 2 Hua Tongs. Pushed so much wattage through them that when they did fail it was almost always unrepairable. First one died when all 3 fet banks blew (15 fets blown = not worth repairing). 2nd hua tong blew 3 times and I brought it back until one of the fets took out the low voltage section of the board.

I'm currently using a 18 mosfet greentime controller with 4110 mosfets (tentatively authentic). 100V @ 65A.

Pictures: To be updated

Or view the entire album

Currently working on
Motor Rebuild
203mm rotors
DoctorBass Torque Arms (Rear is aluminum)
BBQ sensor

 

[whereswally606]

Very tidy description and build, im going to have to do much the same retrospectively of my builds as im terrible at documenting as i go.

Cohberg, you said

Charger
Bulk charger is a 8x 585W IBM Power Supplies with a Meanwell S-150-5V-30A as a current limiter.

which is pretty much what im aiming for with HP 400w power supplies. do you have some pics of your charger setup and any schematics?

thanks in advance, sorry if this is taking your build log off topic, feel free to have it deleted.

Regards Andy

 

[ohzee]

Nice work - nice documentation. How's that little fan help out much ?

Looking good.

 

[shock]

Nice build!@ Where'd you get the wheel fenders?

 

[cohberg]

which is pretty much what im aiming for with HP 400w power supplies. do you have some pics of your charger setup and any schematics?
thanks in advance, sorry if this is taking your build log off topic, feel free to have it deleted.

I think cheap bulk charging is important! RC chargers are just too expensive and slow.
I mean if you really wanted I could draw the schematics for my bulk charging setup, but its nothing more than the 8 server psu in series with the meanwell at the end (so just gnd->12V+ plus the meanwell to limit current and adjust voltage). Some reminders are that you have to get rid of the common ground or then you have to electrically isolate the psu cases.

This is an older picture when i had a meanwell s-150-24V-6.5A but nothing has changed except for the removal of the old meanwell and that jank psu + the addition of the new meanwell and 3 more IBM power supplies

let me know if you want me to go into more detail.

 

[cohberg]

Nice work - nice documentation. How's that little fan help out much ?

I use it mainly for when the bike is at home charging. Its a 200cfm 60mm delta unit that I use to cool down the motor from heatsoak: I really don't know if its helping but every degree cooler helps right?

 

[cohberg]

Nice build!@ Where'd you get the wheel fenders?

deal extreme. It'll take a while to ship via slow boat though.

 

[cohberg]

203's came in today

 

[neptronix]

One thing i wanted to mention. 203mm disc brakes on that fork might be overkill. That thing is not even an RST, spinner, or any other budget brand, more like a hong kong special. A lot of cheaper, yet higher grade forks specify 180mm maximum disc size due to fork flexing. Do keep an eye out on that, in case you were not thinking of it already.

A front fork failure is never pretty, so i just thought i'd throw my concern out there.

P.S. what are you using as a balance charger? you never mentioned that.

 

[cohberg]

One thing i wanted to mention. 203mm disc brakes on that fork might be overkill. That thing is not even an RST, spinner, or any other budget brand, more like a hong kong special. A lot of cheaper, yet higher grade forks specify 180mm maximum disc size due to fork flexing. Do keep an eye out on that, in case you were not thinking of it already.

The forks are steel (Zoom brand i think) and another member has had no problems with fork flex with a 203. The rotors were dirt cheap + have great stopping power, pretty happy with them so far.

what are you using as a balance charger? you never mentioned that.

Using a HobbyKing ECO6 50W

 

[stinkler]

What kinda rear shock did yours come with?
mine came with a pretend shock =(
or did you add one?

 

[neptronix]

Okay, then if it's steel, that's a different situation.

Wow, i didn't know they still made steel suspension forks. There's a multi-pound loss in the making right there.. but at least it's a cheap starter.

 

[cohberg]

Wow, i didn't know they still made steel suspension forks. There's a multi-pound loss in the making right there.. but at least it's a cheap starter.

well i'd rather have an el cheapo steel fork than an aluminum one. if my fork fails at 50mph that would be unfortunate.

 

[cohberg]

What kinda rear shock did yours come with?
mine came with a pretend shock =(
or did you add one?

I don't know what you mean by pretend shock (edit: the no real damper/piston thing, i'll have to check tomorrow, mine came with a shroud: i'll have to take it off) but the stock one on mine was so laughable that I just dialed it up until it doesn't rebound at all. When it was looser the bike would pogo like mad at high speed. I'm not actually heavy enough to properly squish the 150lb? spring so i'm going to have to live with it as an hardtail until i get a better rear spring damper.

 

[stinkler]

This is what came on mine, its not even a real dampener its just a spring. :lol:

 

[cohberg]

I just took the rear shock apart and it looks like the "piston" is nothing but a metal rod with rubber gaskets. i guess that gets added into the to be replaced list.

 

[boppinbob]

I also have a Genesis V2100 build. I am pleased so far with the outcome. Mine is a 72v lipo system with a Crystalyte Hs 3540. If I add more lipos I might put my controller where yours is located. My controller is on a rear seatpost mounted rack. I'm thinking about getting rid of the front disc because it sucks and getting bulldog linear pull. Did you notice it has a mount for linear pull brakes on the front? I sure would like to get farfle's swing arm. One of these nights I'm gonna get drunk and pm him to send me one. Budget be damned.

 

[cohberg]

Did you notice it has a mount for linear pull brakes on the front?

Linear pull as in v-brakes? (a brief search of " bulldog linear pull" didn't come up with anything)
If so, no, there are not any posts for v-brakes on my fork (and to my knowledge any genesis bike fork).
Why would you go backwards from superior disk brakes to v-brakes? Just increase the size of the rotor or get some hydraulics if you need more stopping power.

I sure would like to get farfle's swing arm. One of these nights I'm gonna get drunk and pm him to send me one. Budget be damned.

lol. yeah i might try fabbing my own: that swing arm is pretty sweet.

My controller is on a rear seatpost mounted rack.

I'm curious. I've seen a lot of builds with the controller all by itself on the rear rack. Why would you put something that needs to be cooled in your slipstream. I put my controller near the front wheel on the frame for cooling and weight distribution. Granted its more likely to get damaged by crashes, water etc.

 

[cohberg]

Started hand filing the paint off the dropout in preparation for doctorbass torque arms. It looks rough, but thats because the dropout itself is not perfectly flat and I need to file it all level

Finished wiring up the hub and hot gluing everything down. Stupid USPS is late again so I didn't get my varnish today. Will varnish and then reassemble the hub when the varnish arrives.

Its a mess, I know. But all the hot glue, zipties, tape and fiberglass insulation is to try to make it as durable as possible. With the varnish on, it should look a lot cleaner

 

[boppinbob]

Granted its more likely to get damaged by crashes, water etc.

That was my thinking, but It's no biggie to move the controller if I decide to go from 20s1p 8Ah zippys to 20s2p to give me 16Ah then I'll need that rack for 4 more lipo bricks.

 

[boppinbob]

PS I'm glad to see you are getting those Torque Arms. Those aluminum dropouts are dodgy at best on a high powered bike. I lost a gear on the rear derailleur because it shifts the derailleur 3/8 of an inch outward, but peddling is useless above 15 mph anyway. Losing the gear might because I did not dial the adjust the derailleur very well also. I changed the shifter brake modules and installed Shimano trigger shifters and used Crystalyte brake levers brake inhibits that cuts the motor off when the brakes are applied. I thought I didn't need it until I was startled by a truck that pulled out in front of me and my stopping distance way increased by my not cutting the throttle fast enough.

 

[cohberg]

PS I'm glad to see you are getting those Torque Arms. Those aluminum dropouts are dodgy at best on a high powered bike. I lost a gear on the rear derailleur because it shifts the derailleur 3/8 of an inch outward, but peddling is useless above 15 mph anyway. Losing the gear might because I did not dial the adjust the derailleur very well also.

Well on my GM, the first gear is usable but the derailer scratches the side cover: I just don't shift there, haven't felt the need to remove it.

I changed the shifter brake modules and installed Shimano trigger shifters and used Crystalyte brake levers brake inhibits that cuts the motor off when the brakes are applied. I thought I didn't need it until I was startled by a truck that pulled out in front of me and my stopping distance way increased by my not cutting the throttle fast enough.

Well i have throttle and front brake both on the right hand side. Its either throttle or braking and i ride with my index finger on the brake. i found the brake cutoff to be dangerous in heavy traffic situations so as a backup my main cutoff is on the throttle in case of runaway.

 

[boppinbob]

i found the brake cutoff to be dangerous in heavy traffic situations so as a backup my main cutoff is on the throttle in case of runaway.

I hope I like the new setup. I like the idea of having some sort of emergency cutoff anyway. PS I didn't mean I took a gear off the freewheel. It just won't shift to the last gear.

 

[migueralliart]

The 203mm to me were the best upgrade so far. I wish we could have a better option to put a rear torque arm, something that'll look nice. I just don't know if I need it running 36V sometimes 48 with no regen...

 

[cohberg]

The 203mm to me were the best upgrade so far.

definitely

I wish we could have a better option to put a rear torque arm, something that'll look nice. I just don't know if I need it running 36V sometimes 48 with no regen...

with no regen and esp at that power level you'll be fine. Its primarily the regen that causes the aluminum fractures: the rocking motion fatigues the metal over time.