Getting the most from 200w - Geared hub vs Mid drive Austral

Tats said:
My Samsung 32e 18650 cells are much smaller pack than equivalent lifepo4. 28.35ah is almost as small and light as the 10ah pouches - 3.5ah cells even more so.

a bit of a rant am afraid

for noobs, mainly am on about voltage droop in limn 18650S. They claim a voltage which is unreal. it sags rapidly and loses power. the rated 3.3v of lifepo4 is ~real. its ~constant til 97%~ discharged (if bms allows it, & some i see, do).

12 x 10 ah pouch cell =36v=360wh=3kg at 250gm ea

2500mah(and rapidly decreasing with age) (@4.2v=10wh) & 50gm ea, therefore, 360wh =36x50gm=1.8kg

So yeah it wins on weight, apart from needing more cells to achieve the same effect. For starters, the bottom 20% is just dead weight. Your 28ah would equal a 20ah lifepo4 in functionality in an ev app.

Last I checked, there were only a few 18650s over 3000 ma (when new), and only a few with C_rates above one, & they are `2350mah, not one and the same as 18650 supportets would have u believe i.e. that u can get 3000+mah AND hi c-rates.

The reality is folks, if u think a 10ah 18650 limn battery will yield 360 watts for an hour, u will be sadly and expensively disappointed. Half discharged, i would guess you would be getting well under 300w. Whats the point of a car whose power depends on how full the gas tank is? (admittedly, the c-rates disadvatage can be negated a bit by hi volts like 48v)

I doubt very much you need 28ah. You have solved the problem with a bigger gas tank. okaay?

Assuming the above numbers & say 36v. u have 28ax36v=1008wh, which at 10wh ea cell is 100 cells, each i think w/ 4 soldered connections.

Good luck finding the bad apple among them thats dragging the whole pack down. Just the labour cost makes it irreparable, or to the average joe who places the slightest value on his time. I imagine each cell in a faulty group of cellsmust be desoldered to test if faulty?

A 36v 30ah lifepo4 would consist of a mere 12 30ah pouch cells at 3.3v cells, each individually balanced & easily fault found. I seriously think a 20ah lifepo4 would suit you fine and last a lifetime, and would happily provide 1kw (1.5c) if needed, probably more for such a big battery in standard form, and 3c if the pak is designed for it (eg, ping batts).

A little bonus is that lifepo4S tend to understate their voltages. a 36v pak is really (12x3.3v=39.6v), ie, lighter and better than ratings suggest. lipo e.g pouch paks are exactly 37v and 10 cells. They have similar voltage droop to limn, but compensate with hi c-rates (more than needed for ebikes, which need the range of a more powerful battery anyhoo. 1.5c is usually fine for an ebike - steady use with bursts of acceleration).

Could someone please explain to me how a bms is supposed to do a proper job on balancing each cell, when i doubt many BMSs have much more than 16 monitoring ports?

I am pretty sure they cant and they dont. Its yet another 18650 lie. They manage groups of cells only, not individual cells.

I could be wrong. nobody knows what they dont know, but no one has sensibly refuted my oft stated views.

The paradigm we are being sold is, thats its ok to power a forklift with zillions of torch size batteries. It hasnt been best practice historically with previous tech, & it aint now either. Pouch cells are to new tech, what plate cells are to lead acid. i.e. A far better format for bigger apps.

I concede lifepo4 paks come in awkward regular shapes at times, but thats easily soluble.

Seems to me, watt hour for watt hour, the 18650 argument is, well yeah, its a crap, perishable, battery when u analyse the numbers right, but its 20% lighter. I know which i would choose - the proper battery i can simply forget and use for the life of the bike and beyond.
 
Having owned both with cycle analyst and satiator I think I know a little of what I am saying.

The 36v10ah lifepo4 has a flatter discharge curve but is impacted by cold weather. At a 1.8C Max discharge on a 2 degrees day at 18 months old and 250 cycles wind against I get 7.5-7.8ah discharge capacity.

I charge the 18650 pack to 80% and discharge at less than 0.8C to prolong the battery life. The voltage after 580wh return trip is around 36.5v. I was not getting a one way journey out of the 10ah lifepo4.

So yes I have gone a big tank for nearly the same size (actually a more practical size) 1.2ish kg more and longer life with lower C discharge and less charge cycles - because I know what works for me. The Samsung 32e cell is great for my purposes.
 
Tats said:
Having owned both with cycle analyst and satiator I think I know a little of what I am saying.

The 36v10ah lifepo4 has a flatter discharge curve but is impacted by cold weather. At a 1.8C Max discharge on a 2 degrees day at 18 months old and 250 cycles wind against I get 7.5-7.8ah discharge capacity.

I charge the 18650 pack to 80% and discharge at less than 0.8C to prolong the battery life. The voltage after 580wh return trip is around 36.5v. I was not getting a one way journey out of the 10ah lifepo4.

So yes I have gone a big tank for nearly the same size (actually a more practical size) 1.2ish kg more and longer life with lower C discharge and less charge cycles - because I know what works for me. The Samsung 32e cell is great for my purposes.

i forgot simplicity of manufacture.

can even trust the chinese to get it right

good 18650 cells are all about ultra clean room manufacturing conditions, which only a very few have mastered, expensively.

i just ordered a blue shrinkwrap 36V lifepo4 pouch pak 15ah & 3amp charger $us288 inc freight to Oz. 5.5kg, 2c is doable on it, 1.5c much preferred of course.
so its 3.3v constant , total 39.6v and 594wh - constant at 1c.

Fine, you agree at least that much of your pak is dead wood, a waste of space.

meet u half way

price a fancy panasonic 20ah one like yours (say based on 3200mah~ cells, modest vs most claims of "commonly available at a fair price" cells) & let folks compare.
 
Here is an article on lifepo4 and the effect of cold temperature on capacity.

http://ecst.ecsdl.org/content/3/36/3.full.pdf

The flatter discharge compared to Li-ion is clearly evident. Every battery has its pros and cons. I like the consistent voltage therefore steady top speed of lifepo4, but for my needs a 20ah lifepo4 shape/size isn't as effective as an 18650 custom shaped larger pack - noting the idiosyncrasies of 18650 C rates and depth of charge and discharge. Don't believe anyone's hype - do the research and work out the option that best suits your own needs.

I own a ping lifepo4 I own an em3ev 18650 - both have their space. I'm not arguing, I'm only presenting my view.
 
Samd said:
Agreed tats.
I dont get why cycleops is rejecting lico in lieu of heavy lifepo on the basis of danger in an earlier post but now jumping 18650 recommending lico instead.

And without understanding the terrain the xiongda is a ruse.




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true. better put & w/ new info to hand

traditional rc type lipo packs for noobs is scary. charging has to be kiss to be safe.

in factory made packs with BMS, and in this racing bike situation where weight is getting maxed out for the bike, if ever lipo was a good option, this would seem to be it.

he still gets little benefit from its big, premium price, advantage - hi c-rates. what good is 10c~ to him, even 3c?
i mayhave known then, but only recently dicovered pouch lipo cells, which alters my perspective a bit. bms i can trust for one, each cell monitored.

"And without understanding the terrain the xiongda is a ruse. "? odd.

And without understanding the terrain, the xiongda is therefore, a good flexible recommendation.

perhaps?
 
No its not. Any more than having two wives is going to end better than having one.

Cycleops I have to say mate most of the battery information you are handing out above is either out of date, misunderstood or "not even wrong".

I'm sorry but wow. Just wow.

Here's a start.
https://batterybro.com/blogs/18650-wholesale-battery-reviews/18880255-battery-chemistry-finally-explained


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LiFePO4 is too heavy for a light-weight bike. I don't know any OEMs that use it now. If it were any good, you'd see it in Bosch and Panasonic systems, but you don't because they all use 18650s, which are much lighter and more user-friendly. There's no need to use lipos any more either unless you already have all the equipment and can't spare the cash for a proper battery. I don't know why some people on this forum still recommend these relics from the past.

That article about LiFePO4 in the link above was written in 2007. That's right, 9 years ago! Battery technology is probably moving faster than any other technology at the moment, which makes that article completely irrelevant.
 
Have to agree - new 18650s treated correctly is the way to go in my view. Buy a good quality cell, buy a pack that is big enough to avoid excessive discharge, buy a good charger and buy from a reputable source that will honour any issues. This forum can help in that regard. Penny pinching on a battery was my biggest mistake as a noob. And my 2014 lifepo4 hates the cold by at least 15%.
 
Tats said:
Here is an article on lifepo4 and the effect of cold temperature on capacity.

http://ecst.ecsdl.org/content/3/36/3.full.pdf

The flatter discharge compared to Li-ion is clearly evident.

Every battery has its pros and cons.
ME
sure, but i think fundamentally, piddly size units and low c is not a good look for biggish packs 7 bursty use like ebikes.The 7000 cell+ tesla is simply mad, as history will agree.

I like the consistent voltage therefore steady top speed of lifepo4, but for my needs

ME

well it sure sounded a lot like a general argument in favour of 18650s to me

...a 20ah lifepo4 shape/size isn't as effective as an 18650 custom shaped

ME

yep, conceded that, w/ zillions of little cells, u can have most shapes, HOWEVER, pouches can easily evolve to be superior in that respect, if a priority. Its not hard to make identical capacity, but different shaped pouches for any shaped and bendable assemblage u want.

...larger pack - noting the idiosyncrasies of 18650 C rates and depth of charge and discharge. Don't believe anyone's hype - do the research and work out the option that best suits your own needs.

I own a ping lifepo4 I own an em3ev 18650 - both have their space. I'm not arguing, I'm only presenting my view.

i hadnt considered temp specs of batteries. a bit below the horizon in mediterranean sydney. Glad u made me aware. can u summarise it for us?
 
I can only talk about my experience-cold mornings stuff up my lifepo4 capacity way more than I ever expected taking about 15% capacity away compared to 15 degrees C warmer days. The same may be true of the 18650s but as my pack is so oversized for longevity purposes I don't know. I do miss the flat discharge voltage, but to get a 20ah lifepo4 to do a return trip was too bulky/heavy. Hence my move to the round cell - I have 10s9p. My second bike and third battery is here -> https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=66566&start=25
 
Samd said:
...
I dont get why cycleops is rejecting lico in lieu of heavy lifepo on the basis of danger in an earlier post but now jumping 18650 recommending lico instead.
Because one has to build bikes and experiment with batteries, controllers and motors, to know what he is talking about. Buying a cheap ready made Chinese ebike and reading some random articles on the web, is making someone confused. :wink:
 
If those are the sort of speeds I could go without pedalling I'd be totally happy, but many are saying with a 200w geared hub I'd be lucky to move at all without pedalling. I kind of think I'd either like to pedal properly (no motor) or not have to pedal at all (with a motor) except up hills and starting.
So I'd like something where I can coast without pedalling most of the time.
Also I can't even get a 250w pedal assist unless it conforms to a 'long number' certification. So that rules out most of the kits anyway.

The 250w limit in Australia as a kit unless you have the WHOLE bike approved to be compliant with EN5194 its still not legal, also because it must then have a 25km/h speed limit its next to useless for speed.

The old 200w power limit is still legal and does not need EN5194 bike and their is no speed limit so their is 2 big advantages but as others have mentioned 200w on a hub motor is next to useless in terms of torque, hence why the 200W mid drives that use the gears like the Elation and AFT have been so popular in AUS as you get the most speed out of this very low limit. Also the AFT is the highest efficiency 200w kit i have seen as it has ceramic bearings,oil instead of grease , sinewave controllers etc so you get even more of this tiny 200w limit from the motor into the wheels and less as losses.
 
Thanks for all the useful info there is a lot to consider. If I have to buy a new battery in the future, it seems with the regulations here you would want a battery that will be as near to 100% voltage for as long as possible if you are starting at 200w or 250w.

In the mean time though this saga has moved on to Phase II.

I ordered a new ebike which was reduced to $1199 and seemed to have all the features that I wanted and that people were suggesting, 700c type for efficiency + Bewo 250w mid drive motor + takes the weight required.
It should arrive soon. I was definitely looking at building one before but this special came along so I just ordered it.
The next part though will be to see if it can be made legal to ride though in SA, when I phoned he said he'd send all the regulatory compliance information he has.
So I'm waiting to see what information/approval it comes with.



About the regulations
I emailed the government with a general enquiry about building ebikes with 250w motors to find out if there is any way to get a 250w pedal assist bicycle approved for EN5194, waiting for a reply. If it turns out that there is no way to get a 250w pedal assist bicycle approved I will have to find out how I can downclock the motor to 200w.
https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/transport-travel-and-motoring/cycling/riding-a-power-assisted-bicycle
So I'm not sure if it is possible to do this with the existing controller or if I will have to add a new controller to do this?

So I'm assuming if I have to do this, it will be a good general type of bike/mid drive motor combination to get to make the most of 200w.
 
=BicycleRider= said:
Thanks some good info, what are the reasons you prefer hub motors?

Easier.
Cheaper.
More efficient at rated Speed
q-factor stays small
you can use 2 or 3 front gears
less wear on chain and drive Train
2WD drve is possible with fron Motor
(Regeneration braking)
icycle stays a bicycle when using a small geerad Motor
Takes just 2 minutes to remove battery and Motor if you want a normal bike for a tour, etc...

Theer are disadvantages, too, but for me the Advantages Count higher.

I like front Motors for low power motors in rigid steel forks with throttle control (gives a very lightweight 2WD drive) and rear hub drives for more powerfull direct drives incl regen braking.

For heavy offroad use (full suspension) or cargo bikes or ultra steep long hills or a very weak riders I would use a mid drive.

The bicycle I have now lacks the smallest sprocket on the mid section so I would need to have one added to go up hills....

Don't add a Motor to a bike that "falls apart". Your bike should have good tires, good brakes, a stabile frame and a drive train that works as intended.

If you lack the money for a good bicycle AND a motor system, buy the good bicycle first.
 
jk1 said:
The 250w limit in Australia as a kit unless you have the WHOLE bike approved to be compliant with EN5194 its still not legal, also because it must then have a 25km/h speed limit its next to useless for speed.

The old 200w power limit is still legal and does not need EN5194 bike and their is no speed limit so their is 2 big advantages but as others have mentioned 200w on a hub motor is next to useless in terms of torque,...


How is that 200W measured. Is it the electric power, let's say 36V and 5,56A or some sticker on the motor or mechanical power ???

36V and 5,56A is a bit weak but I would always prefer that with no Speed Limit over a "250W" EU drive (typically those bikes use36V 14A controllers, but even 48V 30A System are rated as "250W" here, see BionX) with ist 25km/h Speed Limit.

I don't know about you, but with my normal bike I can easily go 25km/h or even 30km/h for shorter distances without any motor power. An extra 200W would still help and is 200W more than the 0W you get from the EU 250W bike above 25km/h.
 
cycleops612 said:
good 18650 cells are all about ultra clean room manufacturing conditions, which only a very few have mastered, expensively...


You keep the heavy dust outside and lower the humidity, that's about it. Making li-ion cells does not need conditions like making microchips. Would be way to expensive.

But you are right: With 18650 manufacturers from Japan or Southkorea you know what you will get. (= high quality)

With LFP from China it is a lottery
 
Do cops really control the ebikes power in AUS ?

I mean, a law is one thing and applying it is another.
Here we have a law for ebikes, but no one cares so very few are within legal limitations.
Even those who are buying legal bikes in ebike shops, are all after mods to make them faster right away.
 
=BicycleRider= said:
Thanks for all the useful info there is a lot to consider. If I have to buy a new battery in the future, it seems with the regulations here you would want a battery that will be as near to 100% voltage for as long as possible if you are starting at 200w or 250w.

In the mean time though this saga has moved on to Phase II.

I ordered a new ebike which was reduced to $1199 and seemed to have all the features that I wanted and that people were suggesting, 700c type for efficiency + Bewo 250w mid drive motor + takes the weight required.
It should arrive soon. I was definitely looking at building one before but this special came along so I just ordered it.
The next part though will be to see if it can be made legal to ride though in SA, when I phoned he said he'd send all the regulatory compliance information he has.
So I'm waiting to see what information/approval it comes with.



About the regulations
I emailed the government with a general enquiry about building ebikes with 250w motors to find out if there is any way to get a 250w pedal assist bicycle approved for EN5194, waiting for a reply. If it turns out that there is no way to get a 250w pedal assist bicycle approved I will have to find out how I can downclock the motor to 200w.
https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/transport-travel-and-motoring/cycling/riding-a-power-assisted-bicycle
So I'm not sure if it is possible to do this with the existing controller or if I will have to add a new controller to do this?

So I'm assuming if I have to do this, it will be a good general type of bike/mid drive motor combination to get to make the most of 200w.

That was my first ebike & i still have it.

You will soon hate the chinese battery. It will be weak at best after 30km

it could be a brush motor? Brushless way better i hear.

yes, with bolt on mid-drives, u lose one front chain ring at least, & almost invariably 2 rings, as one is needed for a chain to the motor. The axial crank motor needs no chain of its own & so has 3 front rings & hence, 24 gears.

the alloy frame is a good shape for hanging a 3-400$ decent lifepo4 from china

the bofeili from mike ward in canberra is $1690, less battery, $250 =$1450, add separate decent $400 (mine (on order) is 15ah 36v 5.5kg) battery = $1890. so its $650 more, but u could live with it forever.

I have been exactly where u r now, & i just felt the premium very well spent money, not an indulgence.

It was my sole transport so the cost wasnt an extravagance, an economy measure vs a car by a longshot.

Its OK & am glad u got it. For a 30km commute on days u dont feel like it, its what u want. U insisted u wanted to use the racing bike, & as stated, its an exciting concept to me, minimalist and addresses the key problem of 25kph+ riding, wind. Its killer benefit is a gossamer light bike. A smaller person that u could achieve some awesome power to weight ratios, even w/ 200w. But mid drive on such a bike seems over the top for weight, cost and complexity. Better suits an mtb.

One odd thing about mine was on a particular local long grade, my 70kg + ~15kg groceries, it overheated & stopped on hot ~95f+ days. I just had to wait for it to cool. As a noob, I may have been using too hi a gear and too low revs. Folks grumble about any motor noise. Au contraire, it means u r in an efficient rpm range usually, & maybe metal gears.

Just leave it alone til u cant stand the battery any more.

U are buying the compliance, so u have done the right thing in good faith. As others have said, the laws are largely honored in the breach. Just dont get blind drunk and crash into police cars.

I hated the EU speed limiter. I dont mind ~25kph, but i hate having power randomly cut wehen e.g. trying to gain momentum for an upcoming hill. dangerous to have random such decisions made for u. very annoying flicking on & off when on 25kph. there are easy fixes.
 
Cephalotus said:
cycleops612 said:
good 18650 cells are all about ultra clean room manufacturing conditions, which only a very few have mastered, expensively...


You keep the heavy dust outside and lower the humidity, that's about it. Making li-ion cells does not need conditions like making microchips. Would be way to expensive.

But you are right: With 18650 manufacturers from Japan or Southkorea you know what you will get. (= high quality)

With LFP from China it is a lottery

Not what i hear and u seem to contradict uself anyway.

The top end batteries are distinguished by just that, the clean room manufacturing skills of the makers. The chemicals used are common to panasonic and the chinese, feedstock from a few global makers.

lifepo4 pouches seem little harder to make than filling wine casks.
 
Oh well. I'll see what it's like.
Here are the specs, it seems to have good specs on those areas you mentioned (which I knew to look for already). Samsung battery and a Bewo brushless motor (I wouldn't be buying brushed).
http://www.justride.com.au/product/2015-new-powerider-force-black-xlcentral-crank-motor-system-14ah/

It seems to be an 'An Bike' It had an attachment cardboard that said Kingcab.
http://www.an-bike.com/en/ But can't find the model.



I got an email back from the government motor department and there is no way to get any 250w pedal assist bicycle approved to be legal unless it has been done by the manufacturer (of the whole bicycle), which is extremely disappointing. So I will probably have to find some way to downclock the controller to 200w so I hope that is even possible. Or buy a new controller that can be set to 200w, I hope that is possible.

I'm actually buying it mainly for good weather Sunday riding so I don't actually have to get anywhere in a quick time but I think I'll be glad to have the low gears because I live in a sort of hilly area, also I want to get the most efficiency.
 
=BicycleRider= said:
Oh well. I'll see what it's like.
Here are the specs, it seems to have good specs on those areas you mentioned (which I knew to look for already). Samsung battery and a Bewo brushless motor (I wouldn't be buying brushed).
http://www.justride.com.au/product/2015-new-powerider-force-black-xlcentral-crank-motor-system-14ah/

It seems to be an 'An Bike' It had an attachment cardboard that said Kingcab.
http://www.an-bike.com/en/

I got an email back from the government motor department and there is no way to get any 250w pedal assist bicycle approved to be legal unless it has been done by the manufacturer (of the whole bicycle), which is extremely disappointing. So I will have to find some way to downclock the controller to 200w so I hope that is even possible. Or buy a new controller that can be set to 200w, I hope that is possible.

I'm actually buying it mainly for good weather Sunday riding so I don't actually have to get anywhere in a quick time but I think I'll be glad to have the low gears because I live in a sort of hilly area, also I want to get the most efficiency.

having read specs, well done. $1190 sure beats 1690, & it seems u only really missed 24 gears. 24 gears & axial motor really appealed to me, so I upgraded to the bofeili.

700c seems a big improvement for ride and efficiency. I respect the brutal treatment 26" mtb rims will take - and their ubiquity, but u cant beat bigger wheels. Untrue rims were a real drag when caliper brakes prevailed, but disks brakes are not fussy.

the battery is "rated" to give 360w for an hour (360wh), which it wont, but 360w rated output, is 1.5x 250watts needed by the motor at full power, so it should cope tolerably.
ie. at full power, u r only using 2/3 of its rated maximum output. Even when weakens with discharge, u have a fair chance of getting 250w from it.

So for the 30km trip discussed at 25kph in still air, for 1.2 hrs at 200watts ph (a guess, but recall a racing bike needs 100w ph for this, so allowing double is pretty fair) , the battery would need to deliver 240wh~ for the trip. It should get u to work ok.

maybe it would be good to have a second charger for work, save carrying it to & fro. Any ideas for doing this cheap readers?

Sunday rides? I thought it was a commuter?

i think u will be glad. single best thing is start w/ a good base bike. Then u dont agonise over/begrudge a few dollars in improvements.

I may still build something like u proposed. close to a racing bike but 5kg of ebike kit on it, & easily swapped between bikes (swap front wheel).
 
Yeah the weight is a little heavy at 25kg total. But if I loose some weight I can make up for that. That's comparing to overloading my old bike a bit with a hub kit but making it maybe 18kg.

Lol well not necessarily on Sunday but I won't be riding in a hurry, I'll be leaving plenty of time to go a bit slower if necessary.

The shop sent out a sheet about EN 15194 being the same bike that has en15194 in Europe rebranded for aus.

I'm still wondering about maybe trying downclocking it to 200w and using a throttle without the 25kph pedal assist only speed limit if it's something that can be done with the existing controller.
 
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