Greentime controllers

ian.mich said:
one thing i noticed about these controllers is they have short circuit protection. shorted 2 phases while spin testing a motor at 100v and the controller shut off until i let go of the throttle and reapplied the throttle. no blowing up controllers on these things.
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How many fets was that controller?

I just did similar with my 36fet, it shorted against the case (battery positive to yellow phase) there is no obvious sign of damage but it hasn't come back to life.

I had it loose in the case when testing, not the fault of Greentime.
 
it was a 15fet 4410 that that happened with. maybe extreme shorts are too big for the protection to handle or phase to battery is a different thing altogether.
 
I bought the 15FET controller just to try it with the 80-100 motor. My motor has stock 130kv windings, and I run it on 66V. The motor runs decent at low RPM, but at a high RPM, it sounds like and ICE hitting the rev limiter, and then stops. I have tried with halls installed, and with halls disconnected, with the same result.
 
hi.ian

what is the top speed , did u get for 85v ~ 90v on 18fets 4110, , 60amps,...green time controller? lets say on your hub motor, 48v 1000watts
ken
 
no idea what the speed would be, i'm not sure as it depends on rider weight, aerodynamics, wheel size, the motor kV and the gearing if you are using a chain drive. The phase wires need an upgrade unless you take it easy on the throttle. The 18fet 4110 can take 24S lipo (101v charged) and stay ice cold so dont' worry about overvolting.
 
pretty much, conclusion is these are some bulletproof controllers with genuine 4410s, 4110s or 4115s for dirt nothing, but you can never reprogram them other than the current and LVC through the shunt and resistor change.
 
what is leo email adress ? how to contact. how do u know what contrllers he offer ? i am looking for a 72V 3 KW CONTROLLER
 
Gab said:
what is leo email adress ? how to contact. how do u know what contrllers he offer ? i am looking for a 72V 3 KW CONTROLLER
Click to expand...

Skype: leo840522
Skype is the best way to contact him. I recommend the 12fet 4110 set at 50A for your purposes
 
ian.mich said:
one thing i noticed about these controllers is they have short circuit protection. shorted 2 phases while spin testing a motor at 100v and the controller shut off until i let go of the throttle and reapplied the throttle. no blowing up controllers on these things.
Click to expand...

Pretty much every controller I've seen, bar one or two very low power ones back when 24 V systems were common, has short protection. The Xiechang controllers have a separate, fast-acting, over-current/short protection system that uses a fairly fast comparator to detect high transient currents and turn the controller off, for example, something that gets upset when the shunt is altered to change the current limit.

Looking at the circuit for the Wuxi controllers (a.k.a Greentime etc) they seem to use the same approach, but use a comparator within the X8M06-C µcontroller rather than an external comparator driving the interrupt. The end result should be pretty much identical to the way the Xiechang peak current limit works, with the same serious limitation if you reduce the value of the shunt to increase the current limit (i.e. the short circuit protection becomes far less effective as it relies on the correct shunt value to correctly protect the FETs).
 
ian.mich said:
pretty much, conclusion is these are some bulletproof controllers with genuine 4410s, 4110s or 4115s for dirt nothing, but you can never reprogram them other than the current and LVC through the shunt and resistor change.
Click to expand...

Have you tested one of their controllers with 4115's? If so, how many fet controller? I've been waiting a while to get my hands on some for testing, and it would be good to know if they're finally out.
 
John in CR said:
ian.mich said:
pretty much, conclusion is these are some bulletproof controllers with genuine 4410s, 4110s or 4115s for dirt nothing, but you can never reprogram them other than the current and LVC through the shunt and resistor change.
Click to expand...

Have you tested one of their controllers with 4115's? If so, how many fet controller? I've been waiting a while to get my hands on some for testing, and it would be good to know if they're finally out.
Click to expand...

Sorry, havent touched em. I'd much rather stick with the 4110s at 24S than raise my resistance for more speed then i'd even come close to using
 
Properly is Yes or no.. but it wasn't a difficult task to find out all the 36combination to a hub motor. i got it very fast within 2 test, oh my cyclone motor with sensor mode run indeed, well smoothly. so that is why, i also have order the 18fets 4110, 60amps controller. i hope this sunday, i will have some good news from them.

ken
 
PeeHell said:
I know but it doesn't hesitate to switch to sensorless mode when it doesn't have the right combo.
Click to expand...
i just set the phases till i get the right direction, and then ride the bike while trying diff sensor combos, when i get the right combo, i solder up a jst sm 5 pin
 
ian.mich said:
PeeHell said:
I know but it doesn't hesitate to switch to sensorless mode when it doesn't have the right combo.
Click to expand...
i just set the phases till i get the right direction, and then ride the bike while trying diff sensor combos, when i get the right combo, i solder up a jst sm 5 pin
Click to expand...

???????????????????????? A false positive, ie spins the wheel but not the proper combo, generally spins the wheel in the opposite direction of the good wiring combo for that set of phases or halls. Plus riding a bike before you're pretty certain the wiring is correct is a high risk thing to do, because with a load currents will spike to maximum and stay there putting both the controller and motor at risk.
 
I thought the controller will spin the wheel pretty much no matter what when it comes to sensorless, just depends on the direction
 
Shit. My eyes must be going on me. I missed sensorless. Yeah, using sensorless to get the phases right for the correct direction is a good way to do it. I wouldn't ride it in sensored mode till you get a hall combo that spins it smoothly, and that almost guarantees a valid combo without needing to measure no load current.

I'd be extra careful with the larger than typical diameter motors such as Magic Pies and some of the big scooter hubbies for 13" rims. I had a false positive with mine that ran very close to normal. I think it's something to do with larger pole and slot count and the controllers' ability to auto sense 60° vs 120° phase angle. With those motors once you get the phases running the right direction using your method, definitely try all 6 hall combos.
 
John in CR said:
Shit. My eyes must be going on me. I missed sensorless. Yeah, using sensorless to get the phases right for the correct direction is a good way to do it. I wouldn't ride it in sensored mode till you get a hall combo that spins it smoothly, and that almost guarantees a valid combo without needing to measure no load current.

I'd be extra careful with the larger than typical diameter motors such as Magic Pies and some of the big scooter hubbies for 13" rims. I had a false positive with mine that ran very close to normal. I think it's something to do with larger pole and slot count and the controllers' ability to auto sense 60° vs 120° phase angle. With those motors once you get the phases running the right direction using your method, definitely try all 6 hall combos.
Click to expand...

how do you set up sensors on a sensor and sensorless controller without riding the bike?
 
i got my new 18fets, 4110 greentime controller on 90v setting. it runs very quickly to 60km/h, My eyes don't at the speedometer , 99% is road only. My purchase for this controller can do 48v as well to 90v also. so I can choose my battery pack higher volts lesser amps, or lower volts higher amps. i tested 90v i got a my top speed 71.3km/h , 43mph. i think it can go much faster. right now i haven't found a remote straight road and go for a testing--
ken
 
No regen. Becasue Re-gen will have to do with the LVC. I want this controller can work for 48v , 16cells battery pack. if i need to go for a high speed run, i will add more cells of lipos. i think this controller can do with 100v, I think i stay at a safe level, is 90volts. having a controller that can take in 48v ~ 90v, and with 3 speed mode, i think it help to give me more range. I agree with mr.leo to have no regen. I don't have much hills , mostly flat road. i think this controller is a non sensorless type. This is also okay for me, i have plenty of hall sensor , so far till today after years or thousands km, my hall sensor is working. changing a hall sensor isn't difficult.
 
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