Greentime controllers

[whatever]

seems the bmsbattery programmable controller is the kelly small controller
http://kellycontroller.com/kbs36051l20a24-36v-mini-brushless-dc-controller-p-1167.html

 

[Lussy]

Hi Guys,
Long time reader, first time poster....
I have just bought and installed the 15 Fet 4410 controller on my Conhis 1000KW. Runnning at 19s or 13s with an adjustable LVC. Overall very happy with the performance. Big increase in acceleration and torque over the Conhis standard controller.

From reading the earleir posts, I gather that regen is the yellow single wire cable and it is acitivated by connecting to a high voltage signal, such as the purple wire? From my correspondance with Leo, it sounds like it automatiically kicks in on braking? Dumb question, Is it normally activated with an electronic brake or does it detect an increase in voltage on normal braking and engage itself? I currently use hydrualic disk brake and was woundering if I need to change to a mechanial brake which has a electric switch mechanism. I perfer hydrualic brakes.....

Also the controller has the six pin Cycle analyst plug but read that there has been some trouble with the earlier CA plugs on these controllers. I'm going to purchase a CA and wanted to confirm that I can get the direct plug in model. Anyone sucessfully using the direct plug in model with this controller?

Cheers
Matt

 

[John in CR]

Hi Matt,

I just got some 15 fets in and plan to open one up to check that the CA wiring is correct. The only one in question is the throttle override, which is used by the CA for current limiting and throttle related control. If you don't use any of that you could just cut the green wire of the CA bundle which has the black plug. Clip it in the middle and tape up both ends to be easily repaired later. Hopefully it is now wired to the correct standard with a diode. I've gone over it with them enough that it should be correct.

Regarding regen. It automatically kicks in when the ebrake is activated. Since you have the single yellow, that is the high voltage activation, which is anything above 9V or so. I just don't like the idea of sending pack voltage up to the handlebars, because lethal voltage on some very thin wires running up to a position requiring they twist and flex seems like a big no-no to me. I simply use 4 lithium cells as my voltage source for the ebrake activation on my Greentime controllers that don't have the low voltage option. I tie the negative of that battery pack to any black wire. Positive from that battery goes up to the switch on the bars then back down to the yellow wire. On my hydro brake ebikes I just use a small horn button for my regen/ebrake switch.

What are all of the wires and colors going to connectors on your controller. Maybe you have low voltage activation already wired. You can leave the CA plug (6 wires/black connector), hall plug (5 wires), on/off for power on of the bike (red/purple), and the main battery and phase wires off your list. I think mine came with both high voltage and low voltage ebrake activation. The low just connects to ground via your ebrake switch, so that's the best option for an ebike. The high voltage thing originates from scooters, so it's tied into the brake like supply....Battery voltage makes no sense to me at all, even ignoring the danger.

John

Hi Guys,
Long time reader, first time poster....
I have just bought and installed the 15 Fet 4410 controller on my Conhis 1000KW. Runnning at 19s or 13s with an adjustable LVC. Overall very happy with the performance. Big increase in acceleration and torque over the Conhis standard controller.

From reading the earleir posts, I gather that regen is the yellow single wire cable and it is acitivated by connecting to a high voltage signal, such as the purple wire? From my correspondance with Leo, it sounds like it automatiically kicks in on braking? Dumb question, Is it normally activated with an electronic brake or does it detect an increase in voltage on normal braking and engage itself? I currently use hydrualic disk brake and was woundering if I need to change to a mechanial brake which has a electric switch mechanism. I perfer hydrualic brakes.....

Also the controller has the six pin Cycle analyst plug but read that there has been some trouble with the earlier CA plugs on these controllers. I'm going to purchase a CA and wanted to confirm that I can get the direct plug in model. Anyone sucessfully using the direct plug in model with this controller?

Cheers
Matt

 

[Lussy]

Thanks for your reply John, I will go for the direct mount CA - throttle override is not a funtion that I want to use.

I have identified all the main pinout items you covered (CA plug (6 wires/black connector), hall plug (5 wires), on/off for power on of the bike (red/purple), and the main battery and phase wires) and have a functioning controller.

I have the following additional wiers/connections which based on the info from Reactor on page 27 (my wiring is a combination of the two photos in his post) that I believe are:
two wire orange and orange & mating plag with jumpover for LVC select,
two wire pink and black for Cruise control,
two wire orange and black for speed select,
single wire yellow for High level brake and
and a two wire white and black which I suspect is the low voltage brake.

Does the low voltage brake activate Regen or does it only cut off power or disipate heat in the controller?

In your experiance is using Regen worthwile? I would lose my rear hydrualic brake and I don't need the additional battery life. How powerfull is the regen brake and will it increase the chance of controller failure?

Also, FYI I was able to plug the phase wire and hall sensor wires with a direct colour match to the corresponding Conhis wire colours. From my reading of this and other related forum topics I was expecting toto switch some of the colours over.

Cheers
Matt

 

[kentlim26]

the 3 speed for my 18fets will not work smoothly. when you do the throttle for the 1/4 will not move your motor. and i tested the cruise function too seem nothing special about it. the only useful is the white wire short with red wire power from battery will give you a power cut off. the 3 speed my review is terrible , just stay orginal 100% will give you a smooth take off from speed 0km to max speed. luckily leo gave you a controller allow you to run 13cell or 19cell. 14cells seem best for efficiency, however i have spare extra cells i stay at 17cells 10amps.

 

[ian.mich]

the 3 speed for my 18fets will not work smoothly. when you do the throttle for the 1/4 will not move your motor. and i tested the cruise function too seem nothing special about it. the only useful is the white wire short with red wire power from battery will give you a power cut off. the 3 speed my review is terrible , just stay orginal 100% will give you a smooth take off from speed 0km to max speed. luckily leo gave you a controller allow you to run 13cell or 19cell. 14cells seem best for efficiency, however i have spare extra cells i stay at 17cells 10amps.

LVC on these controllers is very easy to change, i documented earlier

 

[kentlim26]

sorry i cnt find. i have some other members said is adding a resistor to some where? do you have a link and how you can do it? thanks. i dont know or very sure how to changed the lvc

 

[kentlim26]

i have heard ian.mich have said many times was so easy , but please always add a link at the same time how you done it so others will know what you saying.

 

[ian.mich]

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=40900&start=330#p624840

 

[kentlim26]

thanks. too bad, But i don't get it. I think is better to ask leo for a custom build controller, so No worry on the LVc. My 18fets 4110 i think the LVC is set quite fantastic at 12cells it can work well, so I run 21km with great ride.

 

[ian.mich]

thanks. too bad, But i don't get it. I think is better to ask leo for a custom build controller, so No worry on the LVc. My 18fets 4110 i think the LVC is set quite fantastic at 12cells it can work well, so I run 21km with great ride.

personally i would never use the LVC to stop me, i set the LVC at 3v/cell and at just 4C the sag will never be enough to cut out, and running all the way to 3v would be awful.
I use this classic gem instead: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/170846310527?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

[energyi]

Hi Matt,

I just got some 15 fets ...<snip>

What are all of the wires and colors going to connectors on your controller. <snip>

[/quote]

In November I recieved the 15FET 48V 1000W 45Amax BLDC motor controller 4410 Mosfets from Leo at Greentime {http://tinyurl.com/cuw6o7e} . Attached is the photo with wiring as I understand it, as delivered. If you compare with the previous message in the greentime controller thread (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=40900&start=390#p646362, the attachment not the photo in the message) there are some differences (left e-mail and tried chat for Leo, no reply for a few days, then he replied with 3-speed and I edited this post).



For me, the low level brake wire works and assume does regen. I've attached a voltage meter to the voltage wire, and ground on the on/off switch. This provides a voltage readout when the controller is turned on.

My halls and phase wires matched up exactly for the HS3540 motor. No plastic connectors matched on the controller to the throttle, on/off, motor tester, or anything else.

Below is a photo of the controller installed and the LED volt meter.

Been working on a Chinese/HK sales person translator. "Will ship today" means will ship in 4 or 5 days. "Battery included" means battery not included. "Don't worry", means you should be concerned but don't loose too much sleep ~smiley~.

Hope this helps. Best Joe Mc.

 

[Lussy]

Thanks Joe for the info,
I don't have the plug/wires which you believe are PAS (never asked for it). Nor do I have the purple voltage but my throttle indicator picks up voltage from the on/off switch. In addition to your wires I have two yellow wires into a seperate plug which is the three speed switch and a 6 pin Cycle analyst plug.
Once I have a switch (electic horn switch) I will try the low voltage brake.

Cheers
Matt

 

[kentlim26]

the only thing u must avoid from leo is all their battery chargers. it will blew up once u plug it in power plug.

 

[energyi]

the only thing u must avoid from leo is all their battery chargers. it will blew up once u plug it in power plug.

That isn't true, because I purchased the 3amp 48 volt charger from greentime (goo.gl/7LwFG) and it didn't blow up. Sticker says it was customized for the 50.4V 12S2P Lipo, but I'm not quite sure it was. It works for bulk charging, is small and light weight for my purposes.

All generalizations are wrong. ~smiley~

Joe Mc.

 

[energyi]

Thanks Joe for the info,
I don't have the plug/wires which you believe are PAS (never asked for it). Nor do I have the purple voltage but my throttle indicator picks up voltage from the on/off switch. In addition to your wires I have two yellow wires into a seperate plug which is the three speed switch and a 6 pin Cycle analyst plug.

You were right, Leo just e-mailed (finally) and indicated I had the wrong wire shown as PAS, it was 3 speed switch. I've edited my image and that previous post and removed the PAS.

Best, Joe Mc.

 

[kentlim26]

My charger i bought from LEO came it had indeed blew from my 3point plug, fuse changed and inside of the charger 71v 3amps had also blew. Nevermind , i have bought 4 new chargers from hOBByking , this will allow me to charge all the cells to the correctly volts 4.15v ~ 4.18v.. By going bluk charging is not a very safe method, and battery medic will not do the balance fast enough. I have also bought 6 hobbyking battery medic but it didn't do the task well.

getting all the cells to balance is important and must do this every time, that is why some other es member have bought BC 168 for example , the reason is to get all lipos cells ,,, all of them to be stay balance. assuming one cells is 3.8v and the other one is 4.05 there is danger to go into bulk charge. I won't do that.

 

[ian.mich]

My charger i bought from LEO came it had indeed blew from my 3point plug, fuse changed and inside of the charger 71v 3amps had also blew. Nevermind , i have bought 4 new chargers from hOBByking , this will allow me to charge all the cells to the correctly volts 4.15v ~ 4.18v.. By going bluk charging is not a very safe method, and battery medic will not do the balance fast enough. I have also bought 6 hobbyking battery medic but it didn't do the task well.

getting all the cells to balance is important and must do this every time, that is why some other es member have bought BC 168 for example , the reason is to get all lipos cells ,,, all of them to be stay balance. assuming one cells is 3.8v and the other one is 4.05 there is danger to go into bulk charge. I won't do that.

hmm somethings wrong if you have to balance every time. what C rate are you pulling from the pack? i overcharge my 24S batt every time, discharge to 3.7/cell at 4C and i balance every 10 cycles

 

[John in CR]

the only thing u must avoid from leo is all their battery chargers. it will blew up once u plug it in power plug.

Both chargers I got work great. The 3A (or was it 4A, don't remember, it's sold) is kinda odd in that you have to turn it on before plugging in to avoid the spark.

kentlim26,
Did you maybe end up with one for 220V? Was it plugged to the battery at the time...maybe switched pos/neg? Definitely some defect and you should get another. I haven't had a single problem requiring a return, so I don't know the process. Hopefully they have stuff numbered and pics of the blown inside is enough for a replacement.

 

[kentlim26]

hi John,

my area country Singapore house hold current is 220- 240v. I didn't ask for a new charger from him or I have no intention to order a charger or given a replacement from him. I don't have confident, the charger look like BMS charger. Bulk charging I don't have confident is enough safe, after these few days of Lipo fire thread has appear few times. i Just had inform him mr leo, the supplier he got didn't do any QC , so they sent me fast but no test or double check, just said the Sunday to sent, he did sent. then , i went to order lipo charger from hobbyking 4 of them. i will do balance charge mode everytime.

it okay. I wrote here, just to inform guys it is not 100% confirm sure his charger sent will be a Sure working one. sometimes got mistakes, i understand. i didn't ask for a new charger because decide to charge all my lipo cells by Lipo charger. 4 charger will charge all the cells by 2 - 3 hours.

 

[ian.mich]

hi John,

my area country Singapore house hold current is 220- 240v. I didn't ask for a new charger from him or I have no intention to order a charger or given a replacement from him. I don't have confident, the charger look like BMS charger. Bulk charging I don't have confident is enough safe, after these few days of Lipo fire thread has appear few times. i Just had inform him mr leo, the supplier he got didn't do any QC , so they sent me fast but no test or double check, just said the Sunday to sent, he did sent. then , i went to order lipo charger from hobbyking 4 of them. i will do balance charge mode everytime.

it okay. I wrote here, just to inform guys it is not 100% confirm sure his charger sent will be a Sure working one. sometimes got mistakes, i understand. i didn't ask for a new charger because decide to charge all my lipo cells by Lipo charger. 4 charger will charge all the cells by 2 - 3 hours.

Always the chance of getting something smashed in the mail with leo, and there's no coverage for return shipping to leo. There is a full warranty on everything leo sells, but its prohibitively expensive to ship it. I have bought dozens of his chargers and not a single dud though its always possible, controllers on the other hand... i think it was a polarity reversed or wrong wall voltage or something.
Like i said, if you have to balance every time, something is wrong.

 

[kentlim26]

there are many types of charging type of mode. i personnal prefer balance charging mode, so i have 4 hobby king charger + 1 imax B6AC, . so if leo is giving me a free one , I also don't want. there are many guys here perfer charging in a balance mode, such as a charger BC168 is also famous in here. those BC168 owner will never go to greentime charger. Right now, im 17cells x 15amps. 2cells is 20amps.

don't worry, there was nothing wrong. to learn more about charging methods and correct way, please do read more on Battery technical pages.

 

[ian.mich]

there are many types of charging type of mode. i personnal prefer balance charging mode, so i have 4 hobby king charger + 1 imax B6AC, . so if leo is giving me a free one , I also don't want. there are many guys here perfer charging in a balance mode, such as a charger BC168 is also famous in here. those BC168 owner will never go to greentime charger. Right now, im 17cells x 15amps. 2cells is 20amps.

don't worry, there was nothing wrong. to learn more about charging methods and correct way, please do read more on Battery technical pages.

I know the chargers and understand the charging tech very well, but i want none of it. for me the cells stay balanced or its a dud batt.

 

[EdwardNY]

I heard that the greentime controllers which had the cycle analyst adapter attached to it had troubles and even burned up someones cycle analyst. Has this problem been fixed?

Does anyone know if you need the LVC set at a certain amount when using regen? I remember hearing someting about LVC and regen.

Does anyone know the deal with the 3 speed switch only woking at set voltages or something like that?

Are you guys going with the 12 fet, 15 fet or 18 fet?

 

[Sancho's Horse]

Oh great. That CA v3 christmas deal was awesome. Thanks Justin et al., but I hadn't heard about them getting burnt by the greentimes. Are the details here on ES?, because I miss stuff. Just great.