have i killed my gears? Puma V3
- Thread starter Pedalex
- Start date
Rassy
1 MW
I suppose it could be the gears, but I would expect it's just a bad connection, maybe one of the small hall's wires. If you can't find a bad connection, maybe it's a bad sensor inside the motor. There are simple ways to check that documented elsewhere.
Good luck.
Good luck.
itselectric
1 kW
Have you ever got it to work correct before? If you hall and phase sequence does match, you will have problem. Try to eliminate this possibility. Assuming that your hall and phase are suppose to match, you have three possible cause of the problem:Pedalex said:installed a brand new 1000w Puma two days ago,
ran it at 48V 30A and after a few hundred meters it made that bad sound
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pdgOIgSmTg
is it possible i already killed the nylon gears or what could that noise be?
- you gear is striped
- you ring gear came off due to manufacturer defect
- you clutch are not working correctly
Lastly, the best combination of controller to use this motor is Crystalyte Analog controller, it provide the highest rpm then any other controller that I have tested.
Ken
nicobie
100 MW
^ x 2
itselectric
1 kW
Then, i would suggest to follow this video and review the inside of the motor.Pedalex said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jg4zOmHTdW4
Ken
ps: you CANNOT run senorless controller with this motor. It will only work partially. It has a clutch inside, it will disengage when no power go into the motor. When you fire up the sensorless, it will no know which position is in, then you will hear the grinding sound.
dogman dan
1 PW
Doesn't sound like halls stutter to me. Warranty issue on motor I think.
DAND214
10 MW
I'm with dogman. My wifes V1 sounded like that and it was only on 36v 18amp controller.
Dan
Dan
Ariane
10 kW
Pedalex said:
Hi,
Steel gears are available from Lyen and you can purchase "BMC" gears (Green ones) and Clutch from Ilia as San Francisco ebike and stronger Greys gears will be available soon from Cell_Man!
Good day!
Black Arrow
Rassy
1 MW
I agree with Dogman too. I would be concerned with just replacing the gears with metal or plastic ones. Most of the reports concerning trashed gears have been when they were hot and "melty". There might be some other problem with that motor that caused the gears to mesh wrong.
Ypedal
100 TW
Looks kinda rusty in there.... if debris gets into the plastic geares, it just takes a few teeth going bad to make a bad situation worse.....
snowranger
10 kW
I would be surprised if those white gears could take more than 25 amps @ 48 volts.
Ypedal
100 TW
snowranger said:
They do.. quite well actually, but alot of it has to do with how you ride and handle the throttle !! :wink:
itselectric
1 kW
Pedalex:Pedalex said:
We tested v3 about 1.5 years ago. We discovered the crystalyte analog controller provide the highest rpm on v3 motor. I did not wanted to publish the detail result, because I will offend other people in the forum. Anyway, overall the Crystalyte analog controller will always get the highest rpm, it's about 10 - 20 higher. Some of other controller that I thought it would do well, actually did very poor. What also surprise to me is that the Crystalyte 36/48v 20amp had the same performance as Crystalyte 36/48v 35amp, as far as top speed goes. They are both analog controller.
I personally use Crystalyte 36-72v 35amp analog controller, you also need to make sure you don't run your motor with no load (lift the bike and run the motor). You don't gun down the throttle at the start, we actually developed an inline softstart throttle, you don't stress the system at uphill if you feel the system is working hard. If you follow these rule and take it easy, you will have a system that last much longer.
Here is the link that you can purchase the gear assembly.
http://us.itselectric.ca/Motor_Parts_s/74.htm
Ken
ps: one more pointer, if you freewheel cover plate is steel (where the freewheel thread is, and magnet can stick to it), you should change it. It will snap off when you do a stay up pedaling. You need to replace with a cover plate that had stainless steel freewheel thread (magnet that cannot stick to it).
DAND214
10 MW
I hate to say it but if you replace the gears, clutch and side cover you might as well buy a new hub. That is the problem with geared hubs, replacement parts are way too expensive. See if Cell_man has any more to sell.
I replaced 1 with a steel gear and it is noisy now. Better than the snapping noise the 1 broken tooth made.
Dan
I replaced 1 with a steel gear and it is noisy now. Better than the snapping noise the 1 broken tooth made.
Dan
I agree with Y
Its all about how you ride! I have been using many many different versions of the BMC hubs for years now, they all have the White Nylon gears, I run all 3 of them on 48V 35A and have done for 5 years or so. You will strip gears with the wrong controller and misuse for sure, I used all old school analogue Xlyte controllers with them, the early versions of these controllers had a much softer start than some controllers that came after them.
Steel gears are way too noisy and still wear if ridden hard, the green and grey composites were better, the way to ride these motors and make them last is to not hammer them from standing starts, feed the throttle in gently at low rpms, dont ride them up hard off road or jump them of even small pavements under load, nice smooth throttle applications where possible and peddle some if you can.
These motors are worth persisting with and the spares are not expensive to get hold of if you know who to ask, they are a great option if used correctly and they do last if you treat them well, you only have to break a couple of teeth to do a lot of damage to the other teeth though as your picture shows.
The one way gearing and the gears are the weak points of these motors but they can and will operate well if you follow the above, the electric BMX video I shot all those years back has no broken teeth and still runs well, the benefit of a light powerful torquey motor far outweighs the weak points.
I would approach the vendor, get another free-wheel with new nylon gears, also they don't need shit loads of grease on them? only a very small amount is needed, there is way too much in there, nylon is generally considered to be self lubricating, clean out the grease and bits of teeth before you fit the new one though.
Good luck in getting the motor sorted!
Its all about how you ride! I have been using many many different versions of the BMC hubs for years now, they all have the White Nylon gears, I run all 3 of them on 48V 35A and have done for 5 years or so. You will strip gears with the wrong controller and misuse for sure, I used all old school analogue Xlyte controllers with them, the early versions of these controllers had a much softer start than some controllers that came after them.
Steel gears are way too noisy and still wear if ridden hard, the green and grey composites were better, the way to ride these motors and make them last is to not hammer them from standing starts, feed the throttle in gently at low rpms, dont ride them up hard off road or jump them of even small pavements under load, nice smooth throttle applications where possible and peddle some if you can.
These motors are worth persisting with and the spares are not expensive to get hold of if you know who to ask, they are a great option if used correctly and they do last if you treat them well, you only have to break a couple of teeth to do a lot of damage to the other teeth though as your picture shows.
The one way gearing and the gears are the weak points of these motors but they can and will operate well if you follow the above, the electric BMX video I shot all those years back has no broken teeth and still runs well, the benefit of a light powerful torquey motor far outweighs the weak points.
I would approach the vendor, get another free-wheel with new nylon gears, also they don't need shit loads of grease on them? only a very small amount is needed, there is way too much in there, nylon is generally considered to be self lubricating, clean out the grease and bits of teeth before you fit the new one though.
Good luck in getting the motor sorted!
DAND214 said:
$30 on itselectric.ca ..
Cell_man's nylon gears are $3 a pop right now. I am sure the gray gears won't be astronomically more.
Now if we are talking about a new green gears assembly, then yes, that sucks. That sucks a fat one.
John in CR
100 TW
First time out? New Puma (is there even such a thing?)? Tried with 2 controllers could be the key, since I sensorless could hammer the gears when getting back on the throttle, so if sensorless was the first controller tried it could have done the irreversible damage. My first question would be "Is the motor even new?". If it really is new, then the issue could be just a bit of out of tolerance space and is a warranty issue.
Send it back.
Send it back.
snowranger
10 kW
My first set of white gears lasted under 500 miles, and that was with gingerly throttle control with an e-crazy man controller (25 amp at 48V). After replacing with green gears, I was able to WOT without abandon. Still going strong with the green gears after another 7,000 miles. It's not fun wondering when your gears are going to strip or knowing you're on the edge.
999zip999
100 TW
On my bmc v2 600hs I blow out the center of the clucth replaced from bmc than thristed one green grear 8mos. replaced and sprin the whell and felt it was not free I didn,t get all the pieces out took a tooth pick and clean it all it,s a lot smoother. Ilia web site http://www.ebikessf.com tells you the grease to use. Bmc U.S.A. 20447 Nordoff st. Chatsworts ( ? ) Ca. 818-576-0505 his name is Camdu. WAs replaced Free. Don,t bent the c- clip. Good Luck.
Many thanks to Ken (itselectric.ca) ordered the gear assembly and other stuff yesterday and they are already in London. Should be here soon. The other three steel gears i ordered from an Austrian dealer last week haven't even gone into shiping.
Now i'm looking for a crystalyte analog controller but i'm not so happy with the crystalyte plugs
Now i'm looking for a crystalyte analog controller but i'm not so happy with the crystalyte plugs
Hi
Have you got the green gears then? if so I wouldnt worry too much about the xlyte controller, clean out the grease and get all the little bits of gear out, put the new gears on and re apply just a little bit of grease on the gear train.
Go easy on the starts from a standing start and follow the other guidelines folks have outlined and you should have plenty of fun with your motor, the nylon gear are pretty strong, I towed a van with the BMX using the white nylon gears, all gears still look like new 8)
Good Luck
Have you got the green gears then? if so I wouldnt worry too much about the xlyte controller, clean out the grease and get all the little bits of gear out, put the new gears on and re apply just a little bit of grease on the gear train.
Go easy on the starts from a standing start and follow the other guidelines folks have outlined and you should have plenty of fun with your motor, the nylon gear are pretty strong, I towed a van with the BMX using the white nylon gears, all gears still look like new 8)
Good Luck
Similar threads
