Headway Pack Builders thread

Me again,

Can anyone confirm the dimensions of my cad work please :
I also need the thickness of the part and the height of the 4 little cylinders in the corners




Dimensions are in millimeters.

Thanks,
 
just buy one and measure it for yourself, its going to save you more time, rather than ask us every time you need a dimension.
 
The cad drawing is also missing the male/female trapezoid interlocks that hold the end caps together. Frodus is right - buy one if you want to clone it. They're only $1 at batteryspace, get 2 so you can feel how they interlock.

http://www.batteryspace.com/search.aspx?find=BH2M

Cheers,
--Adam
 
OH~ Great!!
It looks fantastic.^^!!
I'm really really beginner. >.< (I want to make my own, too)
so, Could I ask you one basic thing?
there are 10ah, 20ah ,30ah 3.2v LiFepo4 cells..
Isn't it easy and less complicated using those cells?
But I saw many people use a plenty of small cells..
why? Is it because of cost or the other problem?
>,< I want to make a 48v 30ah battery Pack(including BMS).
and I consider using 3.3v 30ah or 3.3v 10ah.

Thank you.. And yours looks really coooooooooooooooool !!
 
I Googled for a couple of hours to try and find out what the recommended torque of the screws on Headway cells should be. I did find a site that specifies the torque for 40138 cells should be 6.9 lb-in, but it didn't say the manufacturer of the cells. Does this figure sound about right? I'm going to buy a torque screwdriver so I don't have to worry about overtightening or undertightening.
 
I have become a firm believer that switching to button head socket screws (m6 x 8m) and tightening them about as tight as I can with a short hex key is the best way to go. The threaded cell ends are extraordinarily durable, and the risk of costly damage from running high current through loose connections far out ways any risk of over tightening IMO. I found out the hard way :cry: I bought them at a local Fastenall store.
 

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Well I'm super impressed. There sure is a lot of work and perfectionism in that build. It's the train attendant and fellow commuters that might get scared :shock:
 
I think we ought to email that guy and tell him, "No that's just not clean enough. You need to work on it more..."

:lol:
 
scoot said:
I have become a firm believer that switching to button head socket screws (m6 x 8m) and tightening them about as tight as I can with a short hex key is the best way to go.
Click to expand...

Be careful, on the 38120s the positive end threads strip very easily. A 1/4" bolt is just oversized enough to cut new threads, but of course then you can't end-to-end them with a set screw anymore, so it has to be and end cell.

Also, in general, I have stripped my share of hex bolts, I am replacing them with torx where I can...
 
I just received my Headway P cells order from Lorraine. I had it shipped by air and the total cost including air, brokerage, and duties came to $16.60 ea. If I wanted to wait a few months the cost would have been about $14.10 ea. The good news is that the lego blocks now fit both ends of the cells easily. They are fifteen cents each. I am using the four hole bus bars, nickel plated copper at 50 cents each.
Now comes the fun part.
 
galeson said:
I just received my Headway P cells order from Lorraine. I had it shipped by air and the total cost including air, brokerage, and duties came to $16.60 ea. If I wanted to wait a few months the cost would have been about $14.10 ea. The good news is that the lego blocks now fit both ends of the cells easily. They are fifteen cents each. I am using the four hole bus bars, nickel plated copper at 50 cents each.
Now comes the fun part.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Just out of interest, how many cells did you buy to get that price?
 
Yeah, really. If you can get genuine Headway P cells at that price, including shipping, then I've been getting ripped off big time. :cry:
Unless you ordered a couple hundred of them, then I can understand that pricing.

TJG
 
Yes I ordered a lot. But the price on the Headway page is $13.00 each. It doesn't say there is a minimum. The rest depends on the shipping costs etc.
 
magudaman said:
I just ordered my headway pack Friday with hopes of it arriving later this week.

I order direct from Ecitypower.com:

36x 38120S
50 Battery holders and cell connectors
Charger 48v 10a
16s BMS 100a cont. 200a peak

~$1000 with shipping

Seems like everyone is having trouble getting the proper cell holders together and cell connectors. Ecitypower has cell holders and connectors, and they were cheap! Maybe they will not be quite as inexpensive if they are ordered directly with no batteries but still might be worth a try. I will post an update as soon as they are received.

38120_Holder.jpg


38120-Connector.jpg
Click to expand...


How is this 16s 100A/200A BMS doing with the pack..? Could you share some more info please..?
 
I recently built a 16 cell Headway pack using the Signalab V2.5 BMS. Really happy with the BMS...great to be able to see the 16 channel LEDS light up at 3.6v Also have a 16S3P A123 pack with the same BMS, over 50 cycles with no issues.
 
The Juicer's EV-Twin powerplant has 14 cells. To get to the full 12s2p I needed to add ten more cells, hopefully doubling my range to 20mi. The solution was to fill an "oil tank" with the remaining cells.
000syw08.jpg

Suckers are in there as tight as Mel Gibson on Yom Kippur.
000szfd4.jpg

Clearance around 3mm between the terminals and the steel case.
000t5ys3.jpg

...looks much better with the lid welded on .
 
dnmun said:
you need to put an insulating shield between the end caps of the cells and that metal enclosure. that will be bad when it shorts.
Click to expand...

Was hoping I could get away with locktite, but deep in my heart, I know you're right. Do I remember correctly that one of the battery vendors sells rubber caps that fit over the screws?
Tired of drilling cutting-boards.
 
hey everyone,

im going to be building a 36v 24ah headway pack using the 12ah 10c cells, for a ebike i'm building. Having investigated thouroughly, it seems like the most plug and play solution for building a batt with these cells is to use the headway orange mounts and the connectors that ev supplies. Now, the two things ive seen are obviously that
1) the low qual plastic can crack.
2) even the heat shrink on the cells can make them too tight/break them upon insertion.

So, my question is, has anyone ever tried heating the plastic holders prior to installation of the cells? Like, get yourself some water at 90 celcius, dip the plastic in for say tfifteen seconds and then dry off with blow dryer and slide on still warm. Wouldnt the heat expansion allow for easy insertion of the cells, possibly with the shrink wrap intact and a tight fit after cooling? Im not at all familiar with plastic heat expansion, just hit me it might help... ud have to be careful to completely dry the plastic lol....
I'd reinforce the pack with plastic breadboards on two maybe 4 of the sides i think and then whey will be mounted in a waterproof pannier bag.
 
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