Help finding a solution to Bafang gear stripping

docnjoj said:
It should come off easily, as there is only 1 removable side! Make sure all the nuts are off the axle on that side. You can leave the freewheel on! Remove the screws (carefully) an get flat paint knives under. You may not need em! Just wiggle and it should come off!
otherDoc
Click to expand...

But WHICH SIDE comes off? I have the nicely polished silver front motor and BOTH sides appear the same with 6 screws and what looks like a seam between the cover and housing. When I had the screws out the first time (I think on the cable side) I couldn't even get an xacto blade in the seam so I don't think I'll be able to wedge a paint knife in there. What's the trick?
 
The rear Bafang only has 1 removable side! Getting the mushed gears out took a lot of time, until I found that the posts that hold them are removable. :oops: Just tap with a drift after removing those lovely little snaprings that dont even fit metric tools! On should be easier! Its 70 +degrees here and rather nice for Christmas!
otherDoc
 
Post some pics and let's take a look-see.

-K
 
Some feedback....

I have been riding my front bafang motor in a 16" wheel on my bob trailer since AUG 08 with no problems.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5710

Its a sliver / black model: 129SWX36, 26" version, 24v, 220w (BF802D10084). Run on 48v / 18A

Before I found out about the gear stripping problem, I tried to 'kill it' on the biggest hills I could find, to see if it would be a reliable motor for riding to work & back...my home made throttle gives it 'FULL stick' from a standing start....

Must be the fact that its in a 16" wheel that has saved me from issues.

voicecoils: you look to have the same motor as I, it that the case?? Can I use the same metal gears as you used?? I am kinda just up the road from you, living in Newcastle. I read that you have sourced the metal gears, is that right??

Thanks

Ktronik
 
ktronik said:
Some feedback....

I have been riding my front bafang motor in a 16" wheel on my bob trailer since AUG 08 with no problems.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5710

Its a sliver / black model: 129SWX36, 26" version, 24v, 220w (BF802D10084). Run on 48v / 18A

Before I found out about the gear stripping problem, I tried to 'kill it' on the biggest hills I could find, to see if it would be a reliable motor for riding to work & back...my home made throttle gives it 'FULL stick' from a standing start....

Must be the fact that its in a 16" wheel that has saved me from issues.

voicecoils: you look to have the same motor as I, it that the case?? Can I use the same metal gears as you used?? I am kinda just up the road from you, living in Newcastle. I read that you have sourced the metal gears, is that right??

Thanks

Ktronik
Click to expand...

Ktronik,

Yes. I have two sets and only need one. One was for Mark_A_W but it turned out his Bafang has different nylon gears. Send me a PM

I haven't road tested the metal years yet. But it will happen soon hopefully, I've just been busy.
 
Another peanut butter Bafang. I've been running the motor at 48V but treating it carefully because of the gear stripping problem. Today I forgot to change down at the lights and tried to pull away using the motor more than I usually would. It got a few yards before the coffee grinder noise started and I knew instantly what had happened. Just thought I'd add another one to the list for any newbies considering buying a Bafang.
 

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These motors clearely cannot handle E-bike loads and should be classified for toy use only :)

After reading about many "Bafang"gear hub failures, and owning a quality geared hub motor for 5 years without any failures what-so-ever, the term "you get what you pay for" holds very true with respect to geared hub motors.
 
@recumbent:

These motors clearely cannot handle E-bike loads and should be classified for toy use only
Click to expand...
i would not aggree with that at all
its totaly unfair

the Bafangs are rated for
24V and/or 36V ====> spike powered it with 48V

the Bafangs are rated for
5,5A to 12,5A (depending on motor-model) ====> spike was using a 30A limit-controller

the Bafangs are rated for
150Watt, 180Watt, 200Watt, 250Watt
(depending on modell) ========> spike was using up to (45V * 30A) = 1300Watt


iam using a 24V Bafang, rated for 180Watt and 12A

i use it with an 14A controller and 36V Battery, seeing this way up to ~500Watt

so iam too going over the rated limit.. sofar - 1200km up and down many hills and going offroad - it works very well and fine

i think, when you use it in the way it was designed for/made for, you will not face any problems
 
first few km of testing with 'heavy metal bafang'

no failures, will continue to test and then do a visual inspection and re-grease perhaps at the 50km mark or so.

Details and a photo here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4925&p=124098#p124098

Still some life in the inexpensive bafang yet I hope :D 8)

Would like to have a go on the nice German Heinzmann at some point. They only do brushed 36v hubmotors through, right?
 
a nice clean setup you have there..

for the Heinzmann: they have geared and gearless, brushed and brushless motors

for my use: (and i "only" power the bike twice as much as is allowed here in europe)
the Heinzmann would be

1.) too expensive
2.) too heavy (for 200W average and 500W peak i see with my 14A controller)
3.) too noisy
4.) too big from optical standpoint

of course, when you plan to power your bike up to 1000Watt and even more, than you need a motor which is bullet proof

when you build a bike within the laws (at least within the european laws) or break the (european laws) only by factor 2 ;)
then the bafang is the better solution, because
1.) cheaper
2.) smaller
3.) lighter
4.) more quiet
 
Re Recumbents/Kraeuterbutters comments. Keywin told me before I bought the motor that it was only rated at 250W. However, the motor was cheap and I was happy to over volt it and take the risk. I guess if I'd stuck to the rated volts/amps it would still be going, but 250W in a hub isn't enough useful assistance (for me anyway). I'm not knocking the Bafangs, Keywin, or Knuckles. Just letting people know what happened. The metal gears should fix it, but then there's the noise issue :)
 
I'm not knocking the Bafangs
Click to expand...

i know..

but recumbent said:
These motors clearely cannot handle E-bike loads and should be classified for toy use only :)
Click to expand...

thats not true..
for the purpose they are made, they work preety well...

( mine, with power at 600Watt: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TQZqctp-gY running twice as fast as it is allowed in europe and the EU, and even more than twice as fast than it is allowed in austria)

as long as you stay at the legal speeds you will not see problems

its like overclocking a 3 GHZ Pentium to 6-9GHZ and when it fails to say: "Pentiums are toys, not useable as desktop-PCs" ;)

i only wanted to state, that there is no problem with the bafangs in the way they are made for and sold for

so: lets say: "the bafang is not the best motor for overvolting and using controllers with lot of amps"
and not say: the bafang cannnot handle e-bike loads, is a toy... --> thats wrong

;)
 
Just an update ...

my Bafang ( which has 8FUN engraved onto it , 250w 36v model ) still works great at 48V with the 30A ecrazyman controller with lifepo4 batteries . I suspest I have done more than 300 kms ( probably more ) and I still accelerate from the steepest hills ( from a dead stop ) and I have tried ( and still trying ) almost everything to get them into peanut butter state but I didn't have any *luck* lol . I hardly pedal .

Lots of fun :twisted:
 
I think i hit on a sensitive issue :? , but when you work in industry for many years as i have, electric motors are seen as reliable and maintenance free. One of you fellows said he rode his Bafag for 300km, that's only two weeks operation.

I never meant to put down your precious little motors, I just have different expectations, and reliability is an absolute, or it's not worth buying.

My bike has to carry a 190lb man, 20lbs of batteries for range, and 45lbs of bike bits and cargo, then ride for two hours without issue, every day, and that's exactly what these gearless hubs do.
The bigger geared hubs have an excellent torque curve and i'm tempted to buy one, once they prove reliable which i think they already have with seasonal greasings.

Wish you luck with the steel gears though, and no hard feelings. We all learn from your tests.
 
Hi recumbent,

i hope you don´t think iam a little child who is angry because you slam about my bafang, and now iam froward
for overvolting and over-ampering setups there are for sure more robust motors and of course: on a gearless motor there are less parts that can go wrong

i only wanted to state, that a bafang - used in the way it was designed for - is not useless for e-bikes..
here in Autria is a importeur who sells the geared bafangs to single persons and to companies, and he said in the forums,
that he had no bafang with failed gears sofar, and he has sold over 1500 units..
he works close with the manufactor, he visits them regulary in there factory

BUT: here in europe the motors are used with 24Volt and for power with 36Volt
there are only few people who are "nuts", and power them with even 48Volt and 15A controller...

well.. this gear-stripping-problem is a US-problem, you see only in US-Forums...
(72V tunings (more than 50Volt is not allowed in europe because the law says, that it starts to become life-dangerous over 50V), or controllers with 30A)

so: 72V, 30A ==> there are no such bikes here
(hell, the most sold bike here are the Swiss Flyers (Panasonic drive) with 250Watt)

oh: he also said, that the gears should hold longer than the free-wheel-unit, the free-wheel unit fails first...
it should be replaced after 30.000km

so, my 1200km are maybe not significant,
but at least: in the German Pedelec-forum are some using the bafang, with some tousands of km and i have not read of one gear-failure sofar ;)
 
recumbent said:
Wish you luck with the steel gears though, and no hard feelings. We all learn from your tests.
Click to expand...
I've ordered a mix of steel gears and nylon gears from Keywin. I'll try two nylon with one steel first. If that fails, then two steel with one nylon. All steel being the fallback option. I don't like gear noise so I'm hoping I'll only need one steel gear. I'll post back when/if I've there's anything worth reporting.

Cheers :)
 
I am enjoying this thread ...

The Bafang weighs 3 kgs. It is a small diameter motor. Cost (motor only) under $200 (delivered).
The PUMA weighs almost 5 kgs. It is a larger diameter motor. Cost (motor only) under $500 (delivered).

The Bafang gear ratio: 4.3:1 - has internal freewheel.
The PUMA gear ratio: 5:1 - has internal freewheel.

I run BOTH these motors at 72V nominal.
BUT ... I use a steel gear as MANDATORY!
The noise increase with 1-Metal gear is minimal.

I am over 200+ lbs. Steel diamond frame ebikes. NiMH batteries. On and Off road testing.
The Bafang (w/ 1-Metal gear) w/ 72V30A Infineon - Top Speed on flat 28 MPH. It will get very warm.
The PUMA (w/ 1-Metal gear) w/ 72V50A Infineon - Top Speed on flat 32 MPH. It will get mildly warm.

The Bafang (w/ 1-Metal gear) w/ 72V30A Infineon - Better startup torque than my Direct Drive motors.
The PUMA (w/ 1-Metal gear) w/ 72V50A Infineon - INSANE startup torque. A real BEAST!

PS ... I LOVE MY TOYS! Fast and Powerful! :D

View attachment 1
My_PUMA.jpg
recumbent said:
These motors clearely cannot handle E-bike loads and should be classified for toy use only.
Click to expand...
WRONG!
 
Knuckles said:
I am enjoying this thread ...

The Bafang weighs 3 kgs. It is a small diameter motor. Cost (motor only) under $200 (delivered).
Click to expand...

Where do I find this price?
 
Contact Keywin ... ecrazyman@gmail.com

You can cc me also rnich01@optonline.net as "helper" to make sure Keywin understands your request.
 
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