Help me build e-bike (mtb)

[Smurf2]

Guys. I made first run yesterday evening, and can say that motor is very good. No one bridge can stop me!

Speed 35km/h and 37km/h top speed. But measure with gps, it's been little lover than that.
Going up on bridge with minimum 31km/h

Feel some vibration when starting, think they come from motor, maybe when battery is low, don't know, but ok.

No PAS installed yet.
For now e-brake seems don't needed.

Can someone tell me which chance are to wheel drop out? Is there real happening?

When it's happening, on start or in speeding? I think will be at start because motor use force, or hill.

(My torque arm is on the way).

 

[E-HP]

Can someone tell me which chance are to wheel drop out? Is there real happening?

(My torque arm is on the way).

Sounds like you're a gambling man. It's easy, just figure out: if the wheel falls off and rips all of the wires out of the hub, fries your controller, and you get mangled as well, whether you can repair the bike and heal before the torque arms arrive, If yes, then it's a no brainer, have fun and go for it. If not, then maybe wait.

 

[Smurf2]

Sounds like you're a gambling man. It's easy, just figure out: if the wheel falls off and rips all of the wires out of the hub, fries your controller, and you get mangled as well, whether you can repair the bike and heal before the torque arms arrive, If yes, then it's a no brainer, have fun and go for it. If not, then maybe wait.

Ok, to continue our friendship, I quick made temporary arm.

I saw that on full charged battery speed much improve.

 

[E-HP]

Ok, to continue our friendship, I quick made temporary arm.

I saw that on full charged battery speed much improve.

Uh oh, you're in trouble now. Next you're going to want that improved speed all the time, so you'll move to 52V to get it , then you'll want the 52V fully charged feeling :lol:...

 

[Smurf2]

Hi, the new Torque Arm makes me crazy!

A)At first, the nuts is too big if I want put arm like in Picture 1.
If I use smaller nut and screw, it fit, but can't tighten a nuts because small space (but Is possible)(pic 2).

B)So, only way is place arm from other side, where enough room for any nuts? (picture 3).

B U T, on booth (A/B) is big space between fork and torque arm (picture 4.), even if I use tiny washers on dropout. Is that gap big or not? When I will screw hoseclamp it will move angle and make pressure on main big axle nut?
Or put something between Hoseclamp and fork?

 

[E-HP]

There are 4 combinations for the torque arm, plus 4 for how the extension bolts to the arm, plus some room for axle washers to adjust spacing. You'll figure it out. It takes a little patience, not rocket science.

 

[99t4]

A)At first, the nuts is too big if I want put arm like in Picture 1.
If I use smaller nut and screw, it fit, but can't tighten a nuts because small space (but Is possible)(pic 2).

Before mounting the TA to the axle:
1) Tighten the nut just enough so the joint can be moved by hand but doesn't move by itself.
2) Mount the TA to the axle.
3) Adjust the joint angle to the correct angle.
4) Remove the TA from the axle.
5) Fully tighten the nut without changing the joint angle.
6) Reinstall the TA on the axle, joint angle will be correct, fully tightened.

B U T, on booth (A/B) is big space between fork and torque arm (picture 4.), even if I use tiny washers on dropout. Is that gap big or not? When I will screw hoseclamp it will move angle and make pressure on main big axle nut?
Or put something between Hoseclamp and fork?

Easier: Clamp the arm in a vise and bend it to suit. That metal is not hard to bend.

BTW, I liked your first method better:

If you made that out of stronger material (steel) and made the axle hole a tighter fit, that would be a much better, cleaner solution. :thumb:

 

[Smurf2]

If you made that out of stronger material (steel) and made the axle hole a tighter fit, that would be a much better, cleaner solution. :thumb:

Thank you for detailed answer. Yes, I can bend it, but don't know do I can because thick material. I can try.

Also, that's I though too! Find a thicker steel material and made same arm like this aluminium!

 

[Smurf2]

INSTALLING PAS !

Pic.1. Normal pedal gap
Pic.2. Pedal plastic extension
Pic.3. Place where extended pedal goes.
Pic.4. Inserting Pedal to the PAS
Pic.5. Full inserted pedal

Hi guys, finally tool for pedal remove come! I got two PAS sensors in Kit, but I love this one (All in One).

The problem is when I tighten a pedal bolt, then pedal not move!

That is because pedal scraping to the plastic of PAS and slow down pedal rotation.
And all that is because pedal have some extended plastic which do inside crank

Is there some QUICK solution for this? like place something with bolt, make some gap between, cut pedal?

If not, I will must install normal PAS with two plates.

 

[Chalo]

Is there some QUICK solution for this? like place something with bolt, make some gap between, cut pedal?

Replace the bottom bracket with one that has a longer spindle, so there's a larger gap for the PAS to fit in.

 

[Smurf2]

Oh. Too much work for this.

I installed a other 12 magnets PAS sensor.
Me and brother traing adjust it all day, moving it closer/further, up down, but still interrupts.
Interrupts in way that when right leg is down then motor turn, after other half turn it cutt of, and that repeat.

Maybe is that because I broken it on place where screw is, but we attached screw in some way. Or because it is pas for Right Side!

Without screw figured out that not working, because front is think aluminium plate, and magnets repeat signal trought this two screws then.

EDIT: Definitely, it is the RIGHT SIDE sensor!

EDIT: I just reverse sensor in X and Z axis, and work fine!

 

[Smurf2]

Compatible is not a precise term. It can mean whether it's plug n play (or not), since the connectors are different, or that it just won't work with the signal a non-BBSXX controller works with. It doesn't necessarily mean that it can't work with the hub motor controller though. The unit requires 5V in, which normal cutoffs don't require. So it may work if you are able to provide 5V separately (sharing the 5V throttle input for instance) and get it to function correctly. It's not a mid drive vs hub issue, but one controller vs another controller issue.

Hi.
After I received brake sensors, I figured out that sensors comes with wrong connectors. Then I ordered again another 4x male connectors, which I connect(solder) 1x1 male together from each side, one female sensor in that soldered male and another female in controller.

I insert cable in sensor and moving it back/front (not full installed), but don't know why not working.

I tried a brake lever sensor which got in package first, and it's working fine, but this sensor not show anything.
I checked pins, there are going 5v trough red/black wire, and not sure what you mean about to "provide 5V separately", because voltage exist there.
I connect only one sensor, not both, and hope that is not reason.
Also, I hear some magnet ball inside which is moving when move cable. Any idea?