Help needed: Clyte HT3525 no response (SOLVED)

[hjns]

Hi all,

Today I was riding nicely along the road, when suddenly my rear wheel with the Clyte HT3525 hubmotor (sensored -methods version) lost fixation of the right axis to the frame (loose bolt). The rear wheel then touched the frame, it met a lot of resistance, and then stopped working. After I refixed the bolt and tried the throttle, no reaction of the motor. The CA nicely gives me my 80-odd Volts, and there is an increased resistance of the wheel when pedaling as compared to before the accident.

When I got home, I checked all connections (phase, hall, throttle, speedswitch, CA) and all is well. Motor just does not react. My question: before I open the motor, is there anything else that I can try? Or did I really just fry my motor....?

My setup:
Hardtail frame
Suspension front fork
Lyen 150V 12Fet controller
3-speed switch
throttle
regen was not activated
HT3525 with 8-speed 32-11t freewheel
20S2P lipo (4x 10S 4.5Ah Zippy bricks)

Thanks for all your responses!

edit: title changed to indicate that the problem has been solved

 

[Pure]

I would think you popped a FET in the controller from sudden amp draw before I thought I killed a motor. Open your controller and have a looksee.

 

[Icewrench]

and there is an increased resistance of the wheel when pedaling as compared to before

That is from a shorted phase circuit. Might be in the motor or the controller.
Unplug the phase wires and turn the wheel, if it now turns easy the problem is in the controller.

 

[Pure]

and there is an increased resistance of the wheel when pedaling as compared to before

That is from a shorted phase circuit. Might be in the motor or the controller.
Unplug the phase wires and turn the wheel, if it now turns easy the problem is in the controller.

Duh, totally missed that. Yes check the phase leads.

 

[hjns]

Hi both,

Thanks for your replies. I disconnected the motor from the controller, and it runs free, so hopefully my motor is ok.

I will open the controller tonight and take a peek (and some photos). If it is only the mosfets or a cap, I may be able to replace them. Otherwise, I may not be able to repair it without some extreme help....

 

[hjns]

Ok, I opened the controller and checked all FETs. Two of them (Phase C) were shorted. I replaced all 4 FETs from Phase C (4115) with 4 good 4110 FETs from another controller. Took me a while (whole evening) to remove the old ones, clean the holes from solder, and get the new ones in. However, it worked, and I got the motor working again.

Tomorrow I will put the motor and electronics on my new FS frame. With the 4110 FETs on Phase C, I am limited to 100V max, but I find 20S lipo more than enough in the city. Ordered a bunch of 4115 FETs and another Lyen 132V 124115 controller, so the 2WD fun can start. Still doubting which front motor I should get...

Anyway, thanks everybody for all your help. Lyen has been a great help as well in the background with PMs. Tomorrow I am back on the road.

This weekend I will post the pics that I took while at it.

 

[ohzee]

Great job man glad you got her fixed. Props on doing it yourself. Would love to see some pictures.

 

[hjns]

Nekkid Lyen 124115 controller: non-modified traces on the backside. From here I checked all MOSFETs. The black lines indicate shorted MOSFETs.

Nekkid insides. Lots of wires, not a lot of room, and definitely no room for a small soldering iron......hmm

Closeup of the popped MOSFETs. I can not see any difference with the other MOSFETs....

Screws removed of all Phase C MOSFETs.

I put a tiewrap through every hole on top of the MOSFETs. Then I turned the controller and put it on its side. Then, while gently pulling on the tiewrap of one MOSFET, I heated the three pins on the backside of the board until all solder was flowing, allowing me to pull out the MOSFET. Cleaning up the holes to allow the new FETs in was a pain in the neck.

4 new candidates at lower voltage (4110 is good for 100V max)

I took the opportunity to change my frame. This is the conventional version. It has a cheap Fox front fork, which is actually not bad at all.

And this is after modification to electric. I tried putting the lipos in the triangle, but it completely destroys the stealth look. With the batteries in front of the steering bar, handling is not that bad on this bike. Much better than on my cheap chinese ebike. So there they are again. I also replaced the front fork with my Fox TALAS FIT RLC 140mm, and the rear brake disc has been enlarged to 203mm. Thinking of doing 203 in front as well, but that has time. Also need mud protectors.

The ride is very very nice. Having front and aft suspension and a Dutch saddle makes for a very smooth ride, even at 55 km/hr. I am one happy camper at the moment....

... cant wait for a 2WD at 126V, though...

 

[Hugues]

Glad it's working.

When I changed my 2 FET last week I removed the heat sink, it was much easier to work.
And it was not very difficult to align the new ones so they can be screwed properly after.

Nice bike !