Help please, new to tricycles, considering building e-trike

I would go around the one with the water not knowing the depth and the muddy splash. The other would barely be noticed...alpharalpha, where in Florida are you?
 
Eastern Hillsborough County. Those are just some stock pictures but were the closest I could come to what I was writing about at the moment. Hillsborough County is actually pretty good with road repairs; what I really wanted to show was how the asphalt crumbles at the narrow shoulder then drops a bit into the sugar sand. Right now I'm not riding out there but when I do I'll get a nice pic.
 
HI ALPH, I live in temple terrace give me a PM and we can arrangefor you to come by and look at my meridian trike.
 
a long long time ago I wanted to buy a cyclone recumbent trike but it was unobtainable at the time... but now it is. It's a full suspension tadpole with the 'un-motored' version selling for $1600 (plus shipping from Taiwan) http://www.cyclone-tw.com/order-erecumbent.htm
Knowing how much in time and effort and money it actually costs to build a custom trike this is quite a bargain.
To gain 'visibility' on my recumbents I did this:zuper zhopper.jpgsolar1.jpgfs1 - redecorated.jpg
The roof allowed me to drop a 150W solar panel on top of it but after using the panel for a few weeks I realized I was never gonna go on a long tour again (it's the thought that counts tho) Panels now form a porch roof for my workshop and are used to charge my battery packs 'offline' . lol

BTW the sinkhole I posted is a couple of 100 meters from where I now reside (Oregon coast) but it made me think of Florida...
 
What about a recumbent that doesn't sit as low? http://sunseeker.bike/ The Sunseeker Eco Tad SX is inexpensive, sits up higher for better visibility, and would be the perfect trike for a Bafang middrive or a rear hub motor.
670104-ECO-TAX-SX-RED-Side-view-1024x682.jpg
 
Xray said:
What about a recumbent that doesn't sit as low? http://sunseeker.bike/ The Sunseeker Eco Tad SX is inexpensive, ...
Click to expand...
Seems that Sun re-named its' adult tricycle line to Sunseeker?
 
I have been following this thread and have some thoughts.

Earlier someone said the Meridian was incompetent, etc. etc. I don't know that anyone claimed it was comparable or as safe as the $1000 plus bikes. It was also suggested I wouldn't be happy unless I bought a $1000 low torque motor. For some with an unlimited wallet those solutions are fine, and probably best, but not everyone has that kind of budget.

Both in this thread, and elsewhere, people are using the Meridian successfully, so it seems more help could be provided for those of us who chose that route vs. being told we shouldn't consider the Meridian option.

My Meridian will be arriving any minute, I will assemble it, test ride it, and then plunge into a motorized solution.

A solution I didn't see here was a gear reduction motor connected to the rear axle with a freewheel. No frame modifications, off the shelf parts other than a mounting bracket. The only reasons I was reconsidering a front hub motor was wattage. The gear reduction motor is 650w and since you are dealing with sprockets, both sprockets can be changed to provide whatever gear ratio you need. Doesn't anyone know how much whirring the gear reduction motors make vs. what I am assuming are silent hub motors?

Is there a thread I missed here for those who want to convert a Meridian? This particular thread seems to cover a lot of bases whereas maybe a thread exclusive to the Meridian would be a good solution.

Thanks!
 
BLUESTREAK said:
View attachment 1You can make this out of a schwinn meridian trike.
Click to expand...

Hello, Can you tell me the wattage of the motor you put on the front of your Meridian? If I go with a front one like yours I want to make sure it has enough power, but not so much top end as I don't anticipate going fast, but need power for hills and I am even considering hauling my dog behind.

Thanks
 
k9kruiser said:
My Meridian will be arriving any minute... The gear reduction motor is 650w and since you are dealing with sprockets, both sprockets can be changed to provide whatever gear ratio you need. Doesn't anyone know how much whirring the gear reduction motors make vs. what I am assuming are silent hub motors?

Is there a thread I missed here for those who want to convert a Meridian? This particular thread seems to cover a lot of bases whereas maybe a thread exclusive to the Meridian would be a good solution.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
wonders what this is.jpg
Most, but not all, delta trikes use the same style 'rear end' including the Meridian so any discussion about these trikes are applicable to the Meridian
That said, I use all-wheel drive on all my personal trikes in an effort to conquer the local topography and have used various motors and configurations for the rear drive.
The Meridian has a Jackshaft area where Schwinn mounts the three-speed IGH. You can also use this area to add extra freewheels driven by motor and pedal to drive the rear wheel. Only one wheel is ever driven on these trikes because differentials cost more money.
I use little geared-hub motors driving low gear ratios to achieve super speeds of 8-11 mph depending.
I can't directly give you numbers because I use 20" rear wheels and the Meridian uses 26" rear wheel (and I'm lazy)

If constrained by money do understand that brushed-motors are like the Unite MY1016 are inexpensive and you don't actually need to use a controller if you just want a boost up hills. Just apply battery power directly to the motor. I used 30A automotive switches for this without failures.
... but brushed controllers are fairly inexpensive as are universal throttles.

The hardest part is understanding gear ratios, and if you can multiply and divide, you already know the math. *grins*.
I don't know if the meridian uses 5/8" or 15mm axles (the most common sizes) but axle- mounted sprockets for bicycle chain and axle-mounted freewheel adapters are both available, cheap and easily procured for either.
(a few years ago I had to hand make my own... no longer do I haz to do this)
 
Hello,
The 3-speed rear end is on the more expensive models, the plain Meridian is just a single speed.
Another distinction is that the meridian is 17mm (not quite) so parts for a 15mm axle won't fit.

I am looking at the MY1020Z. Until now, I was only able to find a 36v/600W model but a seller is selling a 750W version.

I found a freewheel adapter on the Staton site, but the description of it made no sense at all. I wrote them about it to get some clarification.

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=2143

17mm is the shaft diameter, and it says it is .9" wide, but I am clueless on what the 1.375 X 24 dimensions are for...I assume inches, but I don't even what to assume that. Likewise, it has extra parts over and above the adapter.

Thanks for your help!
 
Alan B said:
Chrome moly forks are not that expensive, dual torque arms and modest power in a steel fork avoids the failure related problems there.
Click to expand...

I think I read the Meridian has chrome moly forks... I am still leaning more towards a rear gear reduction motor though.
 
If the axle measures slightly larger than 15mm but less than 17mm, that will likely make it a 5/8" (inch not metric) axle You can purchase off-the-shelf parts from many vendors besides stanton.
Personally, I use amazon, which sources from many different bike houses like Niagra.
When I mentioned the jackshaft I meant that this is where you can easily add a jackshaft with sprockets driven by the rear motor, the pedal chainring and the final drive sprocket chained to the rear axle. You make the modifications to the trike.
Jackshaft parts for 5/8" axles (plates, bearings, collar stops) I get from go-cart and minibike parts suppliers. SickBikes is another supplier of adapters, sprockets and such.

Or there's that spoke-mounted sprocket Darkangel talks about, but do note that a jackshaft arrangement allows for 2-stage gear reduction. Sometimes 2 stages makes slowing down the final drive from a MY1016 motor operating at 36V easier.
some pics:extra rear axle 300 dollar value.jpg
View attachment 1should have bought colored chains.jpg
This is one method I used on one trike utilizing a MY1016Z motor where I needed the pedals to also be driven by the motor (my legs weren't working right at the time)

I sometimes 6-gear clusters mounted on free wheels because I have them and it made it easy to determine what speeds worked best during experiments. I later replace gear clusters with single sprockets of the chosen tooth-count.

I use other methods to drive the rear axle but again, finding those pics is time-consuming and most often I use IGH hubs... and you appear to be budget-constrained.

Good luck.
 
Hello "The Man" :) The axle is 17mm. It was my understanding that because of the gear reduction motor, I don't need a jackshaft? The output sprocket is 480rpm so as you can see, it is slowed down a lot within the motor.

I have the hardest time using Amazon's search engine. I can put in the exact title I want but get everything but...too frustrating when dealing with obscure items. I definitely use Amazon a lot, but when the item is "findable". This is what I found at Stanton:

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=2143

It has extra parts but it looks like what I need plus a sprocket to go on it.

If I understand things properly, I can turn off the motor or let it "idle" when coasting downhill or I have the option of pedaling for power.

DrkAngel gave some combinations earlier and if I remember right, it was a 13T on the motor and 31T on the axle. I don't want to have to buy a lot of sprockets to experiment but if the charts are correct, that appears to be the combo.

As of now, I am looking at a MY1020Z 750W motor. Earlier I could only find 600-650 versions.

Thanks very much for your reply! :D
 

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DrkAngel said:
Use calculator and punch in motor rpm etc

See -Speed and Gear Ratio Calculator
Click to expand...

Am familiar with the chart but it seems it is asking for one more value than I have:

Sprockets Page
Speed and Gear Ratio Calculator

Clutch Sprocket
13T
Big Drive Sprocket
31T
The Gear Ratio = 5 to 1
Rear Tire Height
26
Revolutions Per Minute
480 RPM

Approximate Speed
32.11363 51.38183
mph/kph

I understand all of the other inputs, why is the "Gear Ratio" for? Why did it pre-select 5:1?

Also, when looking at the label on the motor,

36VDC, 750W, 480RPM, 21.6A

Does that mean to achieve the 750W that it needs 21.6A input which I assume means my batteries need to be in excess of 21.6A?

Thanks
 
DrkAngel said:
Use calculator and punch in motor rpm etc

See -Speed and Gear Ratio Calculator

View attachment 1

Remember though, at low demand, speed will be noticeably higher ...
Click to expand...
Motor rpm is listed at power but, "power" exceeds needed for noted speed.
Additional speed is provided.
15.56mph calculated will provide 20mph actual.

file.php
 
Your numbers are off.
You need to adjust factor smaller - bigger to properly calculate.
Just punching in number will not calculate.

Type in number then choose "smaller" then "bigger" to properly register.

Gear Ratio changes as sprocket sizes are calculated.
 
k9kruiser said:
Also, when looking at the label on the motor,

36VDC, 750W, 480RPM, 21.6A

Does that mean to achieve the 750W that it needs 21.6A input which I assume means my batteries need to be in excess of 21.6A?

Thanks
Click to expand...
750w motor output requires:

750w / 36V = 20.8A minimum (100% efficient)
20.8a (100% efficient) - not possible
23.1a (90% efficient) - possible

750w / 42V (fully charged) = 17.85A minimum (100% efficient)
17.85A (100% efficient) - not possible
19.83A (90% efficient) - possible
 
DrkAngel said:
Your numbers are off.
You need to adjust factor smaller - bigger to properly calculate.
Just punching in number will not calculate.

Type in number then choose "smaller" then "bigger" to properly register.

Gear Ratio changes as sprocket sizes are calculated.
Click to expand...

What is interesting about your comment is that I looked to you as a source and a chart you made showed the 13-31T arrangement, so I just picked it.

Have not ordered parts, but would like a max MPH of 25, but 20 is OK.

So, does having a 22AH motor mean my batteries need to be able to put out that or more?

Regarding the pretty chart, I think it showed 220# weight I am assuming.. for instance, if my load weight is 425#, are the formulas able to show what wattage can go at what speed and at what incline?

I am very happy to have all your excellent input!
 
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