Help with E-Bike Upgrade *Greatly Appreciated*

[dominator]

Hello everyone I am new to E-bikes and I purchased a pre-built motiv e-bike as my first bike. Needless to say I became addicted after my first ride, I now would like to upgrade my current setup. I did change out the handle bars, seat, wheels on my current bike and love the way it looks now, I need to know if it is possible to still use my same battery, a 48v 10ah lipo battery. My current motor is a BPM 500w 48v motor, I know it has a 48v controller too but I am not sure what kind it is, if need be I can open it and take some pics. I can't stress enough how much I love the way this bike looks, the way the battery mounts is really nice and stealthy, which is why I need to know what I can upgrade to still keep the same look, the motor (1000w 48v ?), the controller (something that can output more power to the motor, kind of overclock it that will still be small enough if possible to fit into the current casing that the current controller is in), I will provide as many pics as possible so that anyone could make suggestions on the best approach for this project. I currently get 25mph and would like to go a little faster 30 maybe, I do not care about distance so if its possible to suck more power out of my current battery to make it happen that would be great, from what I understand I would need a better controller to do that, do I need just a controller upgrade, a motor upgrade, or both?

 

[deffx]

To get more speed out of your motor generally you need more voltage, but as you would like to use the battery you have. You could add another battery somewhere else and series them together, you would only need a small 10ah 2s or 3s pack to get you to 55-60volts. Which your controller should handle.Or open your battery and reconfigure the cells for more voltage but less amp hours. or see how much lipo you could stuff in it and change chemistries.All these solutions will take a bit of electronic knowledge and some skill

Or you could solder up the shunt and get more amps, which wont necasserely get your more speed, but it might a little bit. Then again thats only if your battery can deliver the extra amps without hurting it

or you could get a lower wind bpm and just switch out the insides for simplicity and that would give you higher speeds but less hill climbing torque

the simplest neatest way to gain that 5mph you want is the lower wind higher rpm motor, but you will sacrifice torque and hill climbing ability a little. but you gain a spare motor. probably solder up the shunt a little to get some of that lost torque back. or add some batteries. LOL. im stoned

Or you could just pedal harder



hope this helps

 

[wesnewell]

According to the sticker on your battery, it's 10ah 13s, so max 54.6V charged. You can probably get 30mph by going to 15s, which charges to 63V. Any higher than 15 would likely blow the controller. The problem is the battery pack which probably has a bms. The way it fits in the slot will make it difficult top just add another 2s lipo in series. You could take the pack apart and fit a smaller 15s lipo pack in the shell, but then you will have charging problems to overcome. It' doable , but you might not like it after all the rigging you'd have to do.

 

[d8veh]

The motor should have the speed code on it, which will give the maximum speed at 48v. It's the number in brackets after the wheel size - probably 8 or 10 like this: .......26(10). Without more volts, you can't exceed that speed. I would say that you're right on the limit of your battery's capability as it is.

Some people boosted their speed and power with a booster battery. To get a 20% increase, you need three extra srtings of 4 cells, so you buy 12 decent 18650 cells from a reputable supplier and wire them into a 3S4P configuration with a balance connector like a lipo pack and use a lipo charger to charge then separately from your main pack. Then you add a connector so that it can be connected in series with your present battery. You need a separate monitoring system for it, like a lipo alarm or voltmeter because it won't have a BMS.

Check the value of the big capacitor in your controller. If it's 63v, you can only use two additional cell strings.

This explains something about booster packs including what happens if you don't monitor them. Later, he connected the battery the wrong way round because he didn't use polarised connectors, and wondered why his bike went slower. Everyone has to learn from somewhere.
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/14618-booster-battery-experiment-2.html

 

[dominator]

Thank you very much everyone for all the replies, I really like the idea of changing my current battery chemistry around to deliver more power, does anyone know how hard this would be, I used to mess with rc helicopters and have some experience with soldering or maybe I could ask a hobby shop to do it for me, what should I aim for though ask them to turn the pack to 15s? Also I've recently found out about falco hx750 and hx1000 motors and kits, these motors seem like a dream come true and was wondering if anyone has had experience with one, I do not understand how they are advertised to perform so well 40+ mph and yet still be so compact. The current motor does say 26(10). I think the number on the big capacitor says 70 if its the big blue one in the pic below.

 

[deffx]

I am afraid rearanging the battery will be rather tricky, you would need a new bms and charger to

Not really worth the effort in my opinion.

I probably should not have mentioned that idea

The booster pack is maybe the simplest idea, but again is going to require some skills to series it with your current battery and some management skills to charge and monitor it

This all takes a bit away from the nice plug and play aspect of your bike

 

[dominator]

Yes I've decided to sell my current setup question is to sell just the motor and controller or to sell the bike as an entire unit, most likely going to get the falco hx motor as that is looking very nice.

 

[dogman dan]

Best bet to get your money back out of it would be to sell off the whole bike. Your current battery is worthless to you for a hot rod bike.

Then for a fun and fast bike, get ready to spend some real money. If not at first, then eventually for sure.

Start with 60-72v RC lipo in a 10 ah size pack. Read a lot about how to choose your charging and monitoring system. There are hundreds of methods that work. Only a few that don't. Connecting up a lot of packs into an 18s or 20s battery is not so hard. You have some experience with RC stuff, and know the battery can burn the house down if you are careless. Decide how to deal with that.

Then a 72v 40 amps controller. Motor choice depends on how long you want to be riding above 35 mph. Cheap direct drive ones can survive an 8 to 10 mile blast. 72v 10 ah runs out just about when you should stop anyway. But you might want to ante up for a much more powerful and cooler running motor for 40 mph riding, and if you will ride fast for more than a quick blast.

By now you may be wanting a much better bike. Some don't, but most of us start spending a thou or more on just the bike.

 

[dominator]

Wow I actually was going to go down to 36v the battery that comes with the falco hx 750 kit supposedly its rated to go 35+ mph though. I guess I should ask them for how long it can sustain that speed. I figure I will lose about 1300 from selling this current electric bike as I paid 2200 for it but I really dont see why it was so expensive now. I was planning on a regular walmart mountain bike hah since I will be converting it to a single speed anyway, might try to find a used one that is a little higher quality frame wise too. Still have a lot of research to do because I dont want to buy another bike and not be happy or want more again, my wallet definitely has limits unfortunately . Thank you for everyone's suggestions though.

 

[bananu7]

The couple of replies I read made me sick to my stomach, with the way people betray the trust you give them to answer your questions. If you want more speed you don't need any sort of higher voltage battery.

If the vehicle top speed is limited by the battery voltage, replacing the controller won't help at all. Unless you employ flux weakening, there is an equilibrium where the back-emf cancels the battery voltage out, meaning that you "run out" out volts to produce the desired current, and thus torque to keep accelerating. This is also why a partially discharged battery will often manifest with a lower top speed.

 

[E-HP]

The AMPs is how fast the current travels, so if you got a 48v battery, make sure your controller matches the voltage, but has more amps. So replace the controller with one that has 30+ amps and that will help you go faster buddy. No need to replace anything else. Order on Amazon they are pretty easy to install, and will cheaply get you to move much faster

This appears to have the quality of an AI generated response.

 

[amberwolf]

Since the post the above two replies was for was removed by another moderator, is it ok with you two if I remove these two responses? (along with my post here, and your responses to this post when they occur, to clean up this >decade-old thread).

 

[E-HP]