Help with running 60v or 72v on my 48v 1000w controller with

cody196

10 W
Joined
Aug 13, 2016
Messages
75
Ok so I have been wondering if anyone could help me identify how i can make this controller allow 63+ volts to the hub motor cause i wanna go a little more faster than 28 mph, any ideas where the HVC (high voltage cutoff) would be and how to bypass it? On the back side i see some small writing labeled 60V any idea what its for, its only 2 very small chips soldered on the otherside.

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Just go to ebay, or ali express, and buy a cheap 72v controller. Look for one with self study or self learning, so it's easy to set it up and get running.
 
Yep, when you get it, or one like it, plug in all the motor wires matching colors if it has them, and the throttle. Ignore all else for now.

Get the wheel off the ground, and plug in the battery. Including the smaller red wire to turn it on. then connect the two learning wires to each other.

It may start turning soon as you connect the learning. It's learning the motor wire order. test the throttle, and see if it spins smooth.

unplug the learn wires. done, ready to ride.
 
how do i plug in these learning wires cause the only wires i got are the hall sensor, 3 phase bullet wires, 3 pin connector along with two small pin connectors for throttle Green and grey, Yellow and brown, and the three pin connector has Red, Green, Black, and of course a pedal assist connector.
 
So you bought one without the self learn wires? Not the one you showed on ebay?



If so, now you have to dope out the combination that works. one goes forward smooth, one goes backward smooth. The other 34 don't run, or run shitty. It can be frustrating to figure this out, but it's not hard. Just gets tiresome, if you hit the right combo, but a poor connection makes you skip that one. Sometimes you find it in 15 min, sometimes it's taken me 3 tries, each on a different day after I get all pissed off at it.

For some mad reason, I seem to find the good one backwards easy, and can't find the good forward.
 
can anyone help me figire out what kind of wires I have and which goes to which on the new controller?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/302033173933

btw havent bought it yet images show original controller but doesnt work now

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Cant' see shit in that pic. too small for me.

Follow each wire to where it goes. If you have a display, it will not be used for the new controller.

What the new one needs to run is this.

Battery wires. Motor wires, throttle wires. The new controller has many wires, but those are the ones you must have. All else can be left disconnected.

You will use the learning wire to get started, then disconnect that jumper.
 
thats the thing would my current learning wire be that green/grey small black crab looking connector? and if i were to disconnect that or the yellow and brown bigger crab connector tthe full, half, empty lights dont show
 
There are no current learning wires. This controller will accept multiple voltages. It learns the voltage from the power wires when you connect them. it will also work without the hall connector hooked up. The learning wire should be 2 white wires that the connectors will connect to each other. All you need to hook up to get it to work are the 3 phase wires, the power wires, and the ignition wire (electric door lock as it's called in the wring diagram), and of course the throttle wires (called 'Turn the Line' in diagram). Once you have that hooked up, push turn the throttle and the motor should turn. If it runs backwards, stop and connect the 2 white wires and it should run right. Then disconnect the white wires and you should be done. At least with getting it working. Now hook up whatever functions you want, like the brake low, brake high, 3 speed switch, hall wires, etc. I bought a 96V version of this same controller and it runs on batteries from 16s to 24S without halls without a problem. First time it ran backwards. Shorting the learning wires switched it to forward and then left them disconnected. I can verify the low and high brake cutoffs work. I didn't connect the 3 speed switch. used the red/black Burglar power wires to hook up my voltmeter. One of these days I'll get the other functions connected, but it's a spare bike so it may be months to never when that happens. On a mxus 3000 4t, 26x3 wheel, it topped out at 48.something mph on 24s. if you need more help, pm me your phone number and I'll call assuming you're in North America.
 
wesnewell said:
There are no current learning wires. This controller will accept multiple voltages. It learns the voltage from the power wires when you connect them. it will also work without the hall connector hooked up. The learning wire should be 2 white wires that the connectors will connect to each other. All you need to hook up to get it to work are the 3 phase wires, the power wires, and the ignition wire (electric door lock as it's called in the wring diagram), and of course the throttle wires (called 'Turn the Line' in diagram). Once you have that hooked up, push turn the throttle and the motor should turn. If it runs backwards, stop and connect the 2 white wires and it should run right. Then disconnect the white wires and you should be done. At least with getting it working. Now hook up whatever functions you want, like the brake low, brake high, 3 speed switch, hall wires, etc. I bought a 96V version of this same controller and it runs on batteries from 16s to 24S without halls without a problem. First time it ran backwards. Shorting the learning wires switched it to forward and then left them disconnected. I can verify the low and high brake cutoffs work. I didn't connect the 3 speed switch. used the red/black Burglar power wires to hook up my voltmeter. One of these days I'll get the other functions connected, but it's a spare bike so it may be months to never when that happens. On a mxus 3000 4t, 26x3 wheel, it topped out at 48.something mph on 24s. if you need more help, pm me your phone number and I'll call assuming you're in North America.
if this is okay you can add me on skype cody5699 i only got a tracfone don't really know the number though. Btw the two crab connectors i mentioned i think those are required and the controller seems to not have that. or is it different.
 
cody196 said:
if this is okay you can add me on skype cody5699 i only got a tracfone don't really know the number though. Btw the two crab connectors i mentioned i think those are required and the controller seems to not have that. or is it different.
Hmmm... I've never used skype, but I installed it and found you and sent you a short message. That's the total of my expertise with it. Hated having to setup a MS account when I run Linux. I dug out my webcam and installed it, so i assume we can do a free video chat once I learn how to do it. Well my old webcam is shot, or no driver installed for it, so ordered new UVC one. it was probably 10+ years old anyway.
 
Cody, after talking to you last night, and thinking about why your controller quit working, I'm thinking more that replacing the shunt wires with solid copper wire that caused a current overload, thus triggering the overload protection of the controller. Before doing anything else, I'd remove the copper shunt wires and replace them with a single longer piece if coat hanger wire to lower the max amps. If that doesn't get it to work, well I don't know, you'd just need to troubleshoot the circuit or replace the controller. Here's some info on using coat hanger wire for shunts.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=72438&p=1094103&hilit=+coat+hanger+#p1094103
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=37776&p=550061&hilit=+coat+hanger+#p550061
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4552&p=68062&hilit=+coat+hanger+#p68062
 
wesnewell said:
Cody, after talking to you last night, and thinking about why your controller quit working, I'm thinking more that replacing the shunt wires with solid copper wire that caused a current overload, thus triggering the overload protection of the controller. Before doing anything else, I'd remove the copper shunt wires and replace them with a single longer piece if coat hanger wire to lower the max amps. If that doesn't get it to work, well I don't know, you'd just need to troubleshoot the circuit or replace the controller. Here's some info on using coat hanger wire for shunts.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=72438&p=1094103&hilit=+coat+hanger+#p1094103
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=37776&p=550061&hilit=+coat+hanger+#p550061
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4552&p=68062&hilit=+coat+hanger+#p68062
alright thanks
 
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