Hi power inverter for Nissan leaf motor. Dyno's 302.3hp p15

liveforphysics said:
I had a few CRXs and a few civic hatches.

With just a 260whp K24a2 in them with 200ft-lbs they feel wild to keep on the track.

Im so excited to drive your CRX!!! I may make a special ride up soon on my DSR and visit again my friend.
Click to expand...


Luke, since you will visit Arlo in BC why not repeat the Cross Canada trip that Justin did in 2008 and make it up to Montreal for the Formula-E with your DSR and 18kW charging power! =)) after all that's just 5000km :shock:

I'm kidding! as well.. but that would be cool.. 8)

Doc
 
all show no go....


Arlo1 said:
fechter said:
Could you stick a beer cooler full of ice in series with the cooling system?

Looks like you need to find a bigger dyno :twisted:
Click to expand...
Working on both of those things.

This guy thought he would have 700hp.....

[youtube]5NUcmimBvOk[/youtube]
Click to expand...
 
At mission raceway with a dead phone and 3/4 charge in the car trying to charger at 3kw to run drags in 1/2 hr
 
You rock Arlin!! Make dragstrip history today buddy!!
 
He had some drama getting the car to leave hard, but trapped 117mph in the quarter, and when the 60' gets reasonable, it should be low 11s (12.7 now with bad 60ft spinning tires).
 
liveforphysics said:
He had some drama getting the car to leave hard, but trapped 117mph in the quarter, and when the 60' gets reasonable, it should be low 11s (12.7 now with bad 60ft spinning tires).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update Luke, sounds like the same problems Brett from Elmofo was having on the 1/4 he was wheel spinning for the first 1/8 of a mile.

Cheers Kiwi
 
Got 2hr sleep on a ferry just drove 110km still have 1/2 charge and 15 km left to drive.

Best run was a 12.7 @ 117mph
Traction problems in the first 1/8 for sure. Slicks at 9psi...
Need to work on finding the right combo... Thinking gearing a bit faster would be nice.
Bigger diameter slicks would help for sure. Running a launch at 75% torque and turning up the dial slowly as the car gets moving can't crank it untill 1/2 way through the run.
There was a lot of cars there making crazy amounts of noise running much slower then me :)
 
Arlo1 said:
Got 2hr sleep on a ferry just drove 110km still have 1/2 charge and 15 km left to drive.

Best run was a 12.7 @ 117mph
Traction problems in the first 1/8 for sure. Slicks at 9psi...
Need to work on finding the right combo... Thinking gearing a bit faster would be nice.
Bigger diameter slicks would help for sure. Running a launch at 75% torque and turning up the dial slowly as the car gets moving can't crank it untill 1/2 way through the run.
There was a lot of cars there making crazy amounts of noise running much slower then me :)
Click to expand...

Great result love the silent scream and you are only just getting started.

Cheers Kiwi
 
First run from yesterday. You can here the tires spinning up to ~110km/h and I am slowly turning the power up until that point where its cranked. This run was with 19 psi on the slicks at the end of the night we were at 8psi and still spinning!

[youtube]3lyBPMn5cL0[/youtube]
 
Arlo1 said:
First run from yesterday. You can here the tires spinning up to ~110km/h and I am slowly turning the power up until that point where its cranked. This run was with 19 psi on the slicks at the end of the night we were at 8psi and still spinning!
Click to expand...

You absolutely need more traction. Is the light end really light, I remember you strapping it down?
 
I have 120 lbs of batteries the controller and the motor and all the chargers up front.
 
Nice Arlo! Great start. I wish I was in your half of the planet to crew!

Have you got any external footage of the burnout/launch? Got a full time slip?

It's amazing the benefits you can get from a good piece of video, ideally in 60fps or higher. You can see unwanted suspension deflection, undesirable weight shift, wheel hop, tire deformation etc

If you're limited on towing/charging options, perhaps you could put together another lower power density pack you can use to drive to the track and then pull it out and switch to the front mounted power pack? Not that power seems to be your issue!

In no particular order, things that I ended up changing to get a fwd to go quick:

stiff rear springs, ended up with I think 16kg/mm on the rear and 6kg/mm on the front with a strut type topology. No fun at all to drive on the street though, a real ball buster especially on speed bumps. Low priority.
Maxed out caster, zero total camber at final weight, very subtle toe out on my particular platform so under load it reached zero toe - surprisingly big gains to be found here
Stiffer lower control arm mounts to control toe movement - as above, helps lots, but you can align around bush deflection
Loading it up on the handbrake to take up any slack in the motor mounts, transmission, driveshaft splines, CV's and tire carcass. This helps lots, especially with consistency and will help avoid smashing shit. Perhaps you could wire up a 'creep' torque throttle setting to a button on the steering wheel? Just enough that you can still resist it with the handbrake. When you're ready to leave have your throttle mashed, release button and then controller gets full throttle signal then tweak via the acceleration limits you mentioned earlier?
Limited slip diff/locker. This makes a big difference on race rubber that requires some temperature to function. Hard to get an open diff to reliably skid both wheels enough to hook up. Seems to matter much less on street tires. Alternative option could be tire warmers, but a challenge to make it to the line with enough heat left.

In the end I think I got down to a 1.65 60' with flogged out hoosier drag radials, full slicks aren't legal to run at local tracks on 'street' meets unfortunately. In total the above tweaks plus practice shaved 3 seconds from ET with zero additional power (which was a lot lower than yours!)
 
Thanks for the kind words and great tips...

yes It will be exciting to make it faster.

Traction will shave 1 second for sure. The 60' times are killing me. I have more video I will try to load them to youtube.
 

Attachments

  • 019 (800 x 1422).jpg
    019 (800 x 1422).jpg
    134.4 KB · Views: 3,586
Awesome! You've definitely got the power there, just an iterative process of improving getting it to the ground :)

Just an idea - In drag racing world, one of the excellent relatively recent innovations is a driveshaft RPM vs time table

You know roughly how fast you should be moving over time based on previous runs, so you plot that in a table over time. If your driveshaft is spinning more quickly than desired, the ECU will pull ignition timing/throttle/boost, if your RPM is low then it will dynamically dial in more (up to configurable maximum modifiers). You can adjust the overall table X axis with a rotary switch, so if the track condition improves you can dial up power over time without having to get out the laptop.
Your time start could be triggered from the release of your 'creep' button, you would require man in the middle on the throttle and a speed signal. Of course this is only useful at the drag strip, unlike real tesla-esque traction control which has all kinds of other applications, but perhaps useful in the immediate term if it's easier to implement?

Unlike most you don't need to worry about gears which is a huge advantage in getting things dialed in!

Very exciting stuff :)
 
So yesterday I got up at 6am to catch a 830 ferry had my brother troy come and we stopped in Vancouver to meet up with a friend Kalen to see where he works providing Big ships and ferries with big battery banks. Biggest was 2.2 MW so far. We charged when we were seeing him and went for lunch then we headed to mission and got there at about 2pm with lots of time but the first charging station was faulty then we tried another not far away it was removed... Tried another and it was only L3 (high speed DC/DC) which I have the stuff for but have not had time to install.... Tried a 4th Station at the University of Fraser Valley and it worked but now it was 3pm and we were deader then planned... With track opening at 4:30... Non the less we walked a few KM to home depot as I remembered I needed a second throttle return spring... Then we went to Wall mart and got water and ICE to drink and cool the controller and motor off in the car. Kalen came and picked up and took us back to the car. Then I hooked up 2 extra batteries to a welding plug and a HV DC breaker I used as a switch. I run the J1772 plug out my drivers window and plugged into the extra batteries so we could drive while we charged heading to the track. :) We got there and Tech didn't know what they were looking at... I explained what I could he asked how the batteries were secured and I explained very well with brackets and straps. He looked at my helmet and could not find the Snell rating on my Icon helmet... I have 5 helmets at home.... So said he could let me run but not faster then 14sec.... Then he got worried as I pulled out the slicks from the trunk. So I had Kalen go ask around about borrowing a helmet. We eventualy found a guy with a blown blower belt he lent me a white snell approved helmet. I walked over passed tech and walked back giving the guy his helmet back so he could go home. Then we got the car unloaded and tech let us plug into their shop 240v plug and I charged to 460v before the first run then charged between runs they asked how much power I was going to use and I explained 5kwh so about $0.50 of electricty and offered to pay double at $1 ;) They were really excited... Later tech came to see how it was going and looked at my time slips beside my black helmet. Also asked about a master switch as he was reading about the rules and I explained I put 2 contactors 1 on positive and 1 on negative and when you shut the key off they are off that was good enough. We then siphoned the warm water out of the rad as we filled it back up with ice cold water. That was good enough for the night as from there on every time I checked the temps of the IGBTs with the computer they were below 30 deg C! I run the fan on the rad all the time but it stayed nice and cool! We Started at 19 psi on the slicks and ended at 9psi with tires still spinning! I will need to do quite a bit to get to the 10s but the 11s should not be to hard!

Looking forward to going again.



Also listen to this Announcer predict the future!

[youtube]nmn7EfY14r8[/youtube]

-Arlin
 

Attachments

  • Mobile charging (800 x 1422).jpg
    Mobile charging (800 x 1422).jpg
    83.9 KB · Views: 3,585
Ohbse said:
Awesome! You've definitely got the power there, just an iterative process of improving getting it to the ground :)

Just an idea - In drag racing world, one of the excellent relatively recent innovations is a driveshaft RPM vs time table

You know roughly how fast you should be moving over time based on previous runs, so you plot that in a table over time. If your driveshaft is spinning more quickly than desired, the ECU will pull ignition timing/throttle/boost, if your RPM is low then it will dynamically dial in more (up to configurable maximum modifiers). You can adjust the overall table X axis with a rotary switch, so if the track condition improves you can dial up power over time without having to get out the laptop.
Your time start could be triggered from the release of your 'creep' button, you would require man in the middle on the throttle and a speed signal. Of course this is only useful at the drag strip, unlike real tesla-esque traction control which has all kinds of other applications, but perhaps useful in the immediate term if it's easier to implement?

Unlike most you don't need to worry about gears which is a huge advantage in getting things dialed in!

Very exciting stuff :)
Click to expand...
Lebowski added a max rpm/sec increase to the code so its like pour mans traction control I was running it and playing with it a bit.
 
Awesome Arlin :mrgreen:

another thing I tried is 100 mph tape all the grooves on your bonnet and pull your wing mirrors back, also take your wiper blades off it all helps Bro


Cheers Kiwi
 
Lebowski..... So... at about 15,000 rpm going though the traps the controller konked out and lost sync....

It went from 410v on the gauge to instant 467v full regen due to the diodes in the IGBT working as a rectifier.... It slammed me forward in my seat and I thought for sure the controller was blown... Then at lower speeds it came back to life and re-synced....

I was playing with settings I started with the inductance set at 65uH and 20 mohm in the FOC menu. It was surging just before the traps which is likely it konking out then re-syncing with that setting which give me a 12.88 and 12.84 second 1/4 mile at 115 mph then I tried 63 uH and 20 mohm for the FOC settings and it went faster and accelerated all the way to the end but konked out at ~120 mph just going thought the traps and thats when it lost sync and went full regen. That give a 12.73 second 1/4 mile at 117 mph.... I then set the inductance to 61 uH and 20 mohm in the FOC menu I went to the line to wait to race and another car crashed (driver was ok) but that shut down the track for the rest of the night....

Good news is the controller and battery let me drive there and back which was over 120km each way and nothing blew up the welded axles didn't even break!

But I am thinking I need to spend some time on the dyno now...
 
When you get your 60's down the MPH will come up as well since they are really bad right now. It has really good MPH already which is what really shows the power (i've seen several 13 sec 130MPH passes on Supra's and Civics).

Congrats!
 
zombiess said:
When you get your 60's down the MPH will come up as well since they are really bad right now. It has really good MPH already which is what really shows the power (i've seen several 13 sec 130MPH passes on Supra's and Civics).

Congrats!
Click to expand...


Thanks... I am WAY into the field weakening and I think the RPM is as far as it can go as its reving ~ 14500 rpm though the traps. But I just got offered some free DYNO time so maybe I can find some more. If I can make it rev 16,000 rpm and set the rev limiter there at about 215km/h or 133mph I think I can make it work with these tires. I'm going to try to get my gauges working for all the timing so I can practice launches and try setups here at home.

Practicing launches and learning to make the slicks work is new to me. But I think with these slicks I can get the 60' down below 2 then it might take bigger slicks to get lower. Which will work out because I need more speed at the top end.
 
Yes practice Arlin

Good 0.1 reaction times get the job done the rest is a ride.,

Check out my mate Brett in a electric radical wheel spinning the first 1/8 doing a 1/4 in Australia.

Cheers kiwi
[youtube]DU6_566FxvU[/youtube]
 
Are you on bias play tires "slicks" or radials? Curious as a drag radial would also give you a little more MPH. Traction is all about suspension setup, read up on what the fast FWD guys are doing and adapt it to your setup.
 
Luke and I are talking to the guys from speed factory... They have the FWD world record.

I believe they are bias ply... I never expected to make this much power when I ordered them....
http://www.mandhtires.com/M-H-Racemaster-Street-and-Strip-Drag-Slicks/P205-60-13#.WWUwv8qp6BY
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

oldswamm
An economical Hi Amp DIY BLDC controller
2 3
Replies
65
Views
13,590
kevbo
K
Back
Top