High-kW onboard chargers
- Thread starter john61ct
- Start date
Tony01
100 W
Is the modded huawei 3000w charger no good for onboard?
I'm looking for a level 2 setup. as high KW rate as possible up to 10kw for as little money as possible. I have a 21s, 24ah 25c/5c pack.
I'm looking for a level 2 setup. as high KW rate as possible up to 10kw for as little money as possible. I have a 21s, 24ah 25c/5c pack.
Tony01
100 W
Wiring up a J1772 is the easy part- Charging an Electric Bike with a J1772 EV Plug
The hard part is the price. Powerful chargers cost real money. It's not just the price of a single unit, it's replacing it when it breaks.
J1772 connector $80.
Modded Huawei $225
72v 30a GTK charger, 2200w, looks tougher? maybe not $250
So you are looking at a bike side parts cost starting at $350 for DOUBLE the charge speed of a typical 110v plug.
I get about 45Wh/mi if I ride easy. So at 2200w charge its not even a mile per minute. Not worth it, currently guerilla charging at 800 to 1250w on 110v with a $130 charger.
The hard part is the price. Powerful chargers cost real money. It's not just the price of a single unit, it's replacing it when it breaks.
J1772 connector $80.
Modded Huawei $225
72v 30a GTK charger, 2200w, looks tougher? maybe not $250
So you are looking at a bike side parts cost starting at $350 for DOUBLE the charge speed of a typical 110v plug.
I get about 45Wh/mi if I ride easy. So at 2200w charge its not even a mile per minute. Not worth it, currently guerilla charging at 800 to 1250w on 110v with a $130 charger.
John in CR
100 TW
Use Nucular controllers and you can charge through the motor coils at whatever current your motor, batteries and the plug can handle. No expensive charger to fail and no space or significant money is used. Plus you have one of the best controllers available to power your motor.
Tony01
100 W
John in CR said:
But still need a psu to do the ac/dc to a voltage lower than the battery? So I could technically run two huaweis in parallel either for 5kw, or 2.5kw for redundancy?
I already have an asi, and I’d still need to carry a psu.
John in CR
100 TW
Tony01 said:
Yeah, I forgot we need to supply a lower voltage than pack voltage, but when we rectify AC to DC don't you divide the AC voltage by the sqrt of 2 to get the DC voltage? With the standard pack voltage I've adopted of 21s, it may be cutting it a bit close, so when I go to a charger-less ebike that plugs straight into any 110V outlet, I'll probably go to a 22s pack, as well as bounce my plan for what is essentially a nearly unbreakable charger that consists of 4 big diodes (and probably a capacitor???) off of the experts here on the forum. AC voltage is pretty variable down here, so I may have to add some kind of added supply voltage protection.
Things will get a lot easier once Nucular comes out with the high voltage controllers I beg for every chance I get. I dream of the day when I can push a HubMonster with dual 24f Nuc's and a 35s or higher pack (if they go to a 200V unit). Then I can take back the title of fastest hubmotor from Rovi, though he did fry that double wide 100lb QS after just a handful of runs and mine tuned as a daily rider with over 6 years of trouble-free service. Since I've hit 182kph on 31s, I could probably eek by his 200 with some aero, a bigger wheel, and maybe 1 more cell in series, but I want to blow by his record when I break it.
So to clarify, the Nucular controller requires DC input, and will output a voltage higher than that input voltage, boost conversion only?
And let you arbitrarily set a custom voltage?
And let you de-rate current amps?
So a pair of PSUs each 3kW outputting ~48Vdc, gets converted to say 90A @58V, or 65A @80V or whatever I want?
And let you arbitrarily set a custom voltage?
And let you de-rate current amps?
So a pair of PSUs each 3kW outputting ~48Vdc, gets converted to say 90A @58V, or 65A @80V or whatever I want?
John in CR
100 TW
john61ct said:
Yes on the boost conversion only. Not sure about DC only input since the motor during regen isn't DC. Yes complete control over voltage cutoff and charge current limits, though 90A or 65A is likely to heat your motor a bit much, especially when it's just sitting there not spinning and no airflow of movement.
Personally I wouldn't carry any PSU or regular charge as they're simply not designed for the vibration and shock resistance virtually guaranteeing failures, and I'm too cheap to pay several hundred for a charger designed for onboard installation, so I'll suffer through backpacking a charger for my rare really long rides. All my stuff other than my in town rocket converted MadAss have 100km+ range now, so charging is pretty much a non-issue.
Converting to DC is simple, just 4 diodes for full rectification. Is there something as easy and reliable (and not too lossy for lots of heat to dissipate) that can divide voltage? The Nuc's don't need a fixed voltage input, though I think going too low means higher losses and heat, it just needs to be less than pack voltage.
I love the idea of not worrying about a charger, or which one to connect (I still have a few different pack voltages and have to be careful). Plus quite easily through the display I could change the charge current, so run a nice low one for usual overnight charging, and then crank it up when needed for quick charging all with no worries about a charger failure, since the controller is designed for much higher current use than I'd ever consider charging. The only thing to forget is an extension cord, which is easy enough to find or buy cheaply.
Tony01
100 W
john61ct said:
Not high enough kw.
John in CR I don’t know enough about electronics but I do know a simple rectifier. That would be really cool to be able to avoid the PSUs.
Onboard is the only way. Always worried leaving the bike charging that somebody will steal my charger.
Is there anybody who has run the Huawei onboard long enough to know?
