How much do you spend on batteries?
- Thread starter adobian
- Start date
itchynackers
100 kW
1665wh of lipo cost me $612 plus shipping.
I use 1110wh on one bike. I once went 82 miles unassisted. Bike did fine. Ass* couldn't take any more.
I use 1110wh on one bike. I once went 82 miles unassisted. Bike did fine. Ass* couldn't take any more.
Ykick
1 GW
I generally spend about $50-$60/Lipo brick from HK shipped. I spent roughly $750 for 1100Wh 5S Turnigy Lipo and another $240 for 450Wh 6S Zippys. That gives me about 1500Wh for $1000.
The upfront cost of Lipo is more than that because of charging equipment but the cost to replace cells seems to be very reasonable. Fortunately I haven't needed to buy any in well over a year.
The upfront cost of Lipo is more than that because of charging equipment but the cost to replace cells seems to be very reasonable. Fortunately I haven't needed to buy any in well over a year.
dogman dan
1 PW
My going racing pile of lipo was at least $1300, plus stuff to charge with. Plus shipping But that was 26s and 25 ah of it. But a basic 20s 10 ah pack is not so bad, $400-500. So even with shipping not over $600. About what the same wh of ping costs shipped.
Speed on 26s was 47 mph. Range was till the motor melted. :lol: About 10 miles.
Expensive sure, but you don't see this kind of low weight, low volume, high current much cheaper.
Speed on 26s was 47 mph. Range was till the motor melted. :lol: About 10 miles.
Expensive sure, but you don't see this kind of low weight, low volume, high current much cheaper.
AussieJester
1 TW
Well over a grand for all the lipo I have bought, all 22v 5ah packs, bout 500 more in charging/balancing/monitoring
KiM
KiM
bionx 1954
100 W
Well I am still using 36V Bosch Fat Packs. I have over 1000 cycles on my first set( used from Icecubes 57) and they are still giving 80 % of original. The price has doubled in 2 years to about $ 100.00 US per pack . I now have 20 BFP giving me 2@ 36V'/20 A packs with about 1400 watts capacity. I spent about 1500 on BFP and 500 on chargers and equipment. I really like these packs and charging is SIMPLE plug in and no need to worry about charging/balancing.
AussieJester
1 TW
Joseph C. said:
Lipo are good for 1000plus charges been started here by the battery gurus, you can expect •500 cycles when used singularly on an rc model. When multiple packs are used in e-bike applications, Charged to 4.15v per cell and only 80% drained you will see well over 500 cycles.
KiM
Eclu Lardbut
10 mW
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2010
- Messages
- 33
I'm using 6 Bosch Fatpacks, at a cost of €65 each, used but nearly new. I'm still figuring out what lifetime to expect from them, but it's all looking good so far. I could have gone lipo, but figured the Bosch option was safer and much more worry-free. Charging is a doddle, more or less fit and forget (for a while, anyway).
Jason27
10 kW
$700 plus tax is what I paid for a 48v 12ah allcell pack a few months ago. Great pack, and highly reliable. Just 8lbs.
theRealFury
10 kW
First battery was a 36v 10AH 360wh LIMN pack and cost me £360 (~$575) - the battery was crap, didnt supply enough power for my needs and was dying after only about 50 cycles.
Second battery is 44.4v 10AH 444wh Lipo and cost me £260 (~$415) This battery has more power storage, supplies more current and is 2.2KG lighter than my first battery at just 2.8kg and all this for $160 less.
I just wish i had come to this forum before i purchased my first kit.
Second battery is 44.4v 10AH 444wh Lipo and cost me £260 (~$415) This battery has more power storage, supplies more current and is 2.2KG lighter than my first battery at just 2.8kg and all this for $160 less.
I just wish i had come to this forum before i purchased my first kit.
dogman dan
1 PW
Cost per mile is likely to be cheapest on lifepo4 of the low c rate pouch type. That is, assuming you run the battery on the same type of motor and controller. My first pingbattery got killed by me by a dumb mistake. The mistake shouldn't have been fatal, but was, because the bms had burned out and did not shut off like it always had before.
Anyway, after about 700 cycles, my cost per mile for the commuting with the ping was about 15 cents per mile.
My cost per mile for lipo has got to be much higher than that. Some of the packs I bought and raced with are dying after less than 100 cycles. Plus the handfull of packs that were bad right out of the box. I have at least $200 in lipo that cost me about a dollar a mile, if not two dollars a mile.
But they were REAL fun miles.
The rest, good packs treated a bit better should last a bit longer, but I'll be suprised if I see three years out of them like I got from the ping. Theoretically I could see 10-20 cents a mile from the lipo. But I bet I screw up somewhere along the line, and end up getting closer to 25 cents a mile in the end. Again though, my use of lipo is real fun miles on the boy toy bikes. Those bikes get a lot less wh/mi, so the cost per mile doubles in theory. I use the lifepo4 for the cheap ride to work.
Anyway, after about 700 cycles, my cost per mile for the commuting with the ping was about 15 cents per mile.
My cost per mile for lipo has got to be much higher than that. Some of the packs I bought and raced with are dying after less than 100 cycles. Plus the handfull of packs that were bad right out of the box. I have at least $200 in lipo that cost me about a dollar a mile, if not two dollars a mile.
But they were REAL fun miles.
The rest, good packs treated a bit better should last a bit longer, but I'll be suprised if I see three years out of them like I got from the ping. Theoretically I could see 10-20 cents a mile from the lipo. But I bet I screw up somewhere along the line, and end up getting closer to 25 cents a mile in the end. Again though, my use of lipo is real fun miles on the boy toy bikes. Those bikes get a lot less wh/mi, so the cost per mile doubles in theory. I use the lifepo4 for the cheap ride to work.
Andje
10 kW
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2010
- Messages
- 779
24s3p in a backpack, and it's all turnigy 20c lipo. It will give me about 40 minutes in a straight line at 95km/h on my 5304 with 18 fet lyens set at 100v/100amp. Or about 30 minutes of commuting somewhere and back again (60 mins total) at more reasonable road speeds. 12*55= ~700 for my battery 100 more for the axiom hardpack it goes in. So far i have 1700 km on my bike, so right now battery wise im at about 41 cents per kilometre so far from just batteries. But, that can only go down!
I ｇｏｔ ３ ｐａｃｋｓ ｏｆ ６ｓ ８ ａｍｐ ｈｏｕｒ ｚｉｐｐｙ ｆｌｉｇｈｔｍａｘ ｌｉｐｏ＇ｓ ｔｈａｔ Ｉ run in series for 66.6v．I ａｌｓｏ ｐｉｃｋｅｄ ｕｐ ａｎ ｉｃｈａｒｇｅｒ ２０６ｂ ａｎｄ ｓｏｍｅ ｗｉｒｉｎｇ ａｎｄ ｃｏｎｎｅｃｔｏｒｓ． Ｗｈｏｌｅ ｔｈｉｎｇ ｉｎｃｌｕｄｉｎｇ ｓｈｉｐｐｉｎｇ ｃｏｓｔ ｍｅ ａ ｌｉｔｔｌｅ ｕｎｄｅｒ ＄５００． Ｉ use my bike as my main transportation and daily commute and compared with the expense of owning a car the batteries are pretty cheap all things considered. I ａｌｓｏ ｈａｖｅ ｗａｙ ｍｏｒｅ ｆｕｎ ｒｉｄｉｎｇ ｍｙ ｅｂｉｋｅ ｔｈａｎ Ｉ ever did driving my car.
Ｓｅｔｕｐ ｏｎ ａ ｃｒｙｓｔａｌｙｔｅ ４０７ ｗｉｔｈ ａ ２０ ａｍｐ ｃｏｎｔｒｏｌｌｅｒ． Ｉ get a top speed of about 58kph in ideal conditions with a fully charged battery. On windy days and as the battery starts to become discharged the speed drops down to around 50kph give or take a bit depending on conditions. Not sure of my range never measured it but I'd like more. I ｄｏｎ＇ｔ ｈａｖｅ ａｎｙ ｌｏｗ ｖｏｌｔａｇｅ ａｌａｒｍｓ ｏｒ ａ ｃｙｃｌｅ ａｎａｌｙｓｔ ｓｏ Ｉ tend to cut my rides short and go easy on the throttle if I ｎｅｅｄ ｔｏ ｇｅｔ ｓｏｍｅ ｄｅｃｅｎｔ ｒａｎｇｅ ｕｐｗａｒｄｓ ｏｆ １５ｋｍ ｄｉｓｔａｎｃｅ ｆｏｒ ｅｘａｍｐｌｅ．
Ｉｔ＇ｓ ５３２ ｗａｔｔ ｈｏｕｒｓ. Aｔ ｆｕｌｌ ｔｈｒｏｔｔｌｅ Ｉ should be pulling around 1300 watts going by the math, assuming the controller is pulling a constant 20 amps. So I ｓｈｏｕｌｄ ｂｅ ａｂｌｅ ｔｏ ｒｕｎ ｆｏｒ ｓｏｍｅｗｈｅｒｅ ａｒｏｕｎｄ ２０ ｍｉｎｕｔｅｓ ｆｕｌｌ ｔｈｒｏｔｔｌｅ. My commute to work is very short and so are most of my trips unless I'm out on a joy ride so my setup works for me.
Ｓｅｔｕｐ ｏｎ ａ ｃｒｙｓｔａｌｙｔｅ ４０７ ｗｉｔｈ ａ ２０ ａｍｐ ｃｏｎｔｒｏｌｌｅｒ． Ｉ get a top speed of about 58kph in ideal conditions with a fully charged battery. On windy days and as the battery starts to become discharged the speed drops down to around 50kph give or take a bit depending on conditions. Not sure of my range never measured it but I'd like more. I ｄｏｎ＇ｔ ｈａｖｅ ａｎｙ ｌｏｗ ｖｏｌｔａｇｅ ａｌａｒｍｓ ｏｒ ａ ｃｙｃｌｅ ａｎａｌｙｓｔ ｓｏ Ｉ tend to cut my rides short and go easy on the throttle if I ｎｅｅｄ ｔｏ ｇｅｔ ｓｏｍｅ ｄｅｃｅｎｔ ｒａｎｇｅ ｕｐｗａｒｄｓ ｏｆ １５ｋｍ ｄｉｓｔａｎｃｅ ｆｏｒ ｅｘａｍｐｌｅ．
Ｉｔ＇ｓ ５３２ ｗａｔｔ ｈｏｕｒｓ. Aｔ ｆｕｌｌ ｔｈｒｏｔｔｌｅ Ｉ should be pulling around 1300 watts going by the math, assuming the controller is pulling a constant 20 amps. So I ｓｈｏｕｌｄ ｂｅ ａｂｌｅ ｔｏ ｒｕｎ ｆｏｒ ｓｏｍｅｗｈｅｒｅ ａｒｏｕｎｄ ２０ ｍｉｎｕｔｅｓ ｆｕｌｌ ｔｈｒｏｔｔｌｅ. My commute to work is very short and so are most of my trips unless I'm out on a joy ride so my setup works for me.
Similar threads
