How much voltage sag is too much?

HypnoToad

100 W
Joined
May 24, 2012
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112
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South west uk
Right now I'm building a battery for an e-bike out of laptop batteries.

Now I've been told that Li-ion cells are a bad choice for an ebike, and I need to have many in parallel in order to supply the needed current.

I have the option to run 6 cells in series, or 12 if I really need to.

I'm planning to mount a voltage readout to my handlebars, and I have all my cells charged to ~4.1v for each cell when hot off the charger.

Now how will I know if the battery can supply the needed current?

If the battery voltage sags below 3.1v is that too much sag? How about 3.6v?

I haven't finished the pack yet, I'm almost there, but I'd like some sort of ball-park figure to go by so I know weather my cells can handle the current or not. In fact I'm tempted to test these packs with a 12v car bulb and see how much the voltage dips with a 5a and 10a constant load from a bulb.

Thanks :)
 
It's best to work with real and reliable data. Here's the datasheet for Panasonic CGR18650E cell. It tells you the voltage sag at various discharge rates. I have another datasheet from either Sony or Panasonic that show even more dramatic voltage sag. But it's buried somewhere in my hard drive at this moment.
 
HypnoToad said:
Right now I'm building a battery for an e-bike out of laptop batteries.

Now I've been told that Li-ion cells are a bad choice for an ebike, and I need to have many in parallel in order to supply the needed current.
With small-capacity Li-ion laptop cells, that is generally true. However there are many sizes, types, formats, and chemistry variations of Li-ion cells, and for many of them it is not true. ;)



I have the option to run 6 cells in series, or 12 if I really need to.
6s is only about 22V-24V or so, depending on charge level. 12s is closer to 48V, though I'd use 14s myself.

Most likely you'll need to run quite a few parallel cells. DrkAngel has a nice thread full of data on how to make packs like this, with good pics and data, which you will probably want to read--it also has good info from other contributors.

Current provided under specific loads, as well as voltage sag, will depend on the specific cell, and what it's rated for, as SamTexas pointed out.

I have a bunch of various cells that I someday intend to build a giant pack from, but have yet to have time and materials at the same time to do it. I expect I can get 30 or 40p, at 14s, with what I have right now, though I doubt all of them are very good cells. Maybe 20p if I get a rather picky about which cells to use. The more in parallel, the less load on each cell, and thus the less sag. At 20p, I'd give myself a max of 20A burst current, and 10A constant. Even that is probably a lot for these old cells. :lol:
 
Laptop cell packs for ebikes work fine for extender packs and don't need to be so large. 40 cell laptop cell extender packs work fine and are small, light and pack a lot of power.

Using them as extender packs you can keep them cool, barely sag them and make them last.

It may sound complex at first but believe me it is less complex than building and troubleshooting large laptop cell packs.
 
amberwolf said:
I have a bunch of various cells that I someday intend to build a giant pack from, but have yet to have time and materials at the same time to do it. I expect I can get 30 or 40p, at 14s, with what I have right now, though I doubt all of them are very good cells. Maybe 20p if I get a rather picky about which cells to use. The more in parallel, the less load on each cell, and thus the less sag. At 20p, I'd give myself a max of 20A burst current, and 10A constant. Even that is probably a lot for these old cells. :lol:
aw, go ahead and build the pack or at least play with your cells. You will soon discover that it's not as bad as you think. Most cells are 2.2 to 2.6Ah new. If your old cells still have 70% of the original capacity (conservative), a 20p group will have 31 to 36Ah. So 36A burst and 18A continuous is still conservative.

90% of the time I use 0.5C or less on my pack. But I have no worry pulling 1C for a few minutes climbing hills, or pulling 2C for a few seconds when I'm accelerating hard from stop.

My 21s10p, 18Ah pack is the one I used to push my dual 9C 2807 bike to 40mph. That's around 2,300W. Of course, I would hurt the pack if I keep that speed for more than a few minutes. But a 21s20p pack will have no problem sustaining that speed at all.
 
Depends on the C of the batteries.

Hot off the charger, the voltage will drop like a rock (what, about half a volt guys?) at maximum C discharge and then continue to slowly fall based on the total capacity (Amp hours) of the cell.

If, however, you exceed the maximum discharge C, the voltage will fall further and you run the very real risk of damaging the pack. The chemistry can only supply power so fast. You never want to drop below the minimum voltage for the cell either.

Pretty sure this is right, but will yield to others on the forum more knowledgeable than I.

Thanks,
Jim.
 
SamTexas said:
It's best to work with real and reliable data. Here's the datasheet for Panasonic CGR18650E cell. It tells you the voltage sag at various discharge rates. I have another datasheet from either Sony or Panasonic that show even more dramatic voltage sag. But it's buried somewhere in my hard drive at this moment.
Hi, I should have stated in my first post which cells I'm using, my bad; They're marked Samsung ICR18650 26C and I believe the original capacity was 2600mAh. The only datasheet I could find was this one: http://www.meircell.co.il/files/Samsung%20ICR18650-26C.pdf Which did not contain any discharge graphs, but it did say that the maximum discharge current is 5200mA, so that's better than nothing.

The CGR18650E datasheet you posted is helpful however, as I'm guessing the voltage sag characteristics should be pretty similar as they're similar capacity and both 2C capable. i'll use 3.5v as a low voltage limit for now, as I'm planning to run 12 cells in series then if my voltmeter goes below 42v on a fully charged pack then I know I'm pulling too much current. :)

amberwolf said:
HypnoToad said:
I have the option to run 6 cells in series, or 12 if I really need to.
6s is only about 22V-24V or so, depending on charge level. 12s is closer to 48V, though I'd use 14s myself.

Most likely you'll need to run quite a few parallel cells. DrkAngel has a nice thread full of data on how to make packs like this, with good pics and data, which you will probably want to read--it also has good info from other contributors.

Current provided under specific loads, as well as voltage sag, will depend on the specific cell, and what it's rated for, as SamTexas pointed out.

I have a bunch of various cells that I someday intend to build a giant pack from, but have yet to have time and materials at the same time to do it. I expect I can get 30 or 40p, at 14s, with what I have right now, though I doubt all of them are very good cells. Maybe 20p if I get a rather picky about which cells to use. The more in parallel, the less load on each cell, and thus the less sag. At 20p, I'd give myself a max of 20A burst current, and 10A constant. Even that is probably a lot for these old cells. :lol:
Doh, I made a typo in my first post, I was supposed to say "I have the option to run 6 cells in parallel, or 12 if I really need to."

I'm almost done wiring up a 12s 6p pack full of Samsung 18650's, and if this turns out to not supply enough current then I can make a 2nd pack and run them in parallel. However it takes quite a while to build these packs, and quite frankly I'd rather be out on the bike rather than cutting and soldering cables! ;)

Also, I'm guessing this is the battery building thread you're referring to;
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26383&hilit=DrkAngel
?

I'm on the 3rd page right now, it is full of good info, and it seems like I'm on the right track with my first pack, thanks. :)

You should use your cells, I have a little motivation as I have an e-bike with no battery right now so the sooner I get the battery done the sooner I can be out riding, also li-ion's lose capacity over time weather they are used or not, so I figure you may as well use 'em while they're still good. 20p will be huge, but who said overkill was a bad thing? :D

etriker said:
Laptop cell packs for ebikes work fine for extender packs and don't need to be so large. 40 cell laptop cell extender packs work fine and are small, light and pack a lot of power.

Using them as extender packs you can keep them cool, barely sag them and make them last.

It may sound complex at first but believe me it is less complex than building and troubleshooting large laptop cell packs.
Hmm, I've never heard of this until now. Would you use a li-po paralleled with a li-ion extender pack? Would you parallel the balance cables also?

SamTexas said:
amberwolf said:
I have a bunch of various cells that I someday intend to build a giant pack from, but have yet to have time and materials at the same time to do it. I expect I can get 30 or 40p, at 14s, with what I have right now, though I doubt all of them are very good cells. Maybe 20p if I get a rather picky about which cells to use. The more in parallel, the less load on each cell, and thus the less sag. At 20p, I'd give myself a max of 20A burst current, and 10A constant. Even that is probably a lot for these old cells. :lol:
aw, go ahead and build the pack or at least play with your cells. You will soon discover that it's not as bad as you think. Most cells are 2.2 to 2.6Ah new. If your old cells still have 70% of the original capacity (conservative), a 20p group will have 31 to 36Ah. So 36A burst and 18A continuous is still conservative.

90% of the time I use 0.5C or less on my pack. But I have no worry pulling 1C for a few minutes climbing hills, or pulling 2C for a few seconds when I'm accelerating hard from stop.

My 21s10p, 18Ah pack is the one I used to push my dual 9C 2807 bike to 40mph. That's around 2,300W. Of course, I would hurt the pack if I keep that speed for more than a few minutes. But a 21s20p pack will have no problem sustaining that speed at all.
It's nice to see some numbers. :) My pack right now is 12s6p. Original cells 2600mAh. My RC charger thinks they're between 2200-2300mAh each after balancing, so they seem to be around 85% the original capacity if my charger is to believed (Imax B6).

Now assuming 6p and capacity is 2250mAh, combined capacity = 13,500mAh:
0.5c = 6.7A, 1.0c = 13.5A and 2.0C = 27A, so I may be pushing it a little with my 30A car fuse here, I'll have to order a 40A one.

However my setup is a far cry from your dual 9C, I'm using a 250W Ezee motor that's a little overvolted (44v instead of 36v), and it struggles to do 20mph let alone 40. I think I may be ok, in fact I doubt that this motor will ever use more than 20A unless I find some pretty steep hills.

JimW said:
Depends on the C of the batteries.

Hot off the charger, the voltage will drop like a rock (what, about half a volt guys?) at maximum C discharge and then continue to slowly fall based on the total capacity (Amp hours) of the cell.

If, however, you exceed the maximum discharge C, the voltage will fall further and you run the very real risk of damaging the pack. The chemistry can only supply power so fast. You never want to drop below the minimum voltage for the cell either.

Pretty sure this is right, but will yield to others on the forum more knowledgeable than I.

Thanks,
Jim.
I don't really have a BMS, just a voltmeter on the handlebars, but I'll be sure to make sure it doesn't go below 36v (3v per cell).
 
HypnoToad said:
The CGR18650E datasheet you posted is helpful however, as I'm guessing the voltage sag characteristics should be pretty similar as they're similar capacity and both 2C capable.
Yes they are very similar. For practical purpose, consider they're the same.

i'll use 3.5v as a low voltage limit for now, as I'm planning to run 12 cells in series then if my voltmeter goes below 42v on a fully charged pack then I know I'm pulling too much current. :)
3.5V is too high. 3.0V is the most appropriate value. But 3.5V may work for your true pedelec bicycle. Once you have some decent measurement instrument, you will find out that your power is in the 100 to 200W range most of the time. So your 12s6p pack is MORE THAN sufficient.

I think I may be ok, in fact I doubt that this motor will ever use more than 20A unless I find some pretty steep hills.
You're correct. You will be way below 10A 90% of the time.
 
I have not tried it with rc lipo. I am using 11s 3p A123 26650 cells with 10s 4p Samsung 2600mah laptop cells.

They are charged seperate then connected and discharged in parallel.

The packs are in parallel, not the cells.

An extender pack is just a pack that extends the distance of the ride by backing up the main pack.

Allows the use of much smaller laptop cell packs without sagging them.

It is easier to build and test and troubleshoot smaller packs built with laptop cells.

An extender pack can be in a small case or box that you strap on the back when you want to go for longer rides.

You could connect 2 or 3 for real long rides if needed or just use the main pack for short trips and not carry the extra pack or packs.
 
etriker: Interesting extender pack concept. I have never tried it before. Question: Have you measured or estimated the loss associated with energy transferred back and forth between the "main" and the "extended" pack? That is the biggest concern in my mind when paralleling different chemistries (cell voltage and C rate).
 
etriker said:
Yes, lots of tests and it works allowing the laptop cells to deliver their power without overloading them. They like that ! :)

Watt meters and cell logs will show what is going on.
Is this the answer to my above question? If so, I don't quite understand it. What's the loss? 2%, 5% or what? Thanks.
 
etriker said:
What would be the loss ? Heat ? The A123 cells and the laptop cells stay cool.
There's ALWAYS a loss when energy is transferred from one place to another. I guess the answer is you have never measured it.

etriker said:
Keep in mind that all of this can be explained without using the term c rate.
Forget it. I am longer interested in your explanation.
 
It's like this.

You take apart a lot of laptop packs you buy on ebay hope you get the Samsung 2600mah.

Test them and save the good cells.

Finally get enough to make a 10s 4 p pack and solder it together, put it on the bike.

Run it over to a friends house.

Darn those cells got hot, that's not good, need more in parallel so they don't get so hot.

Don't have anymore Samsung cells but have about 33 A123 cells.

Maybe I can use those to parallel the Samsung pack so it does not get so hot.

Yep it works fine ! :)

Never said the c rate term.
 
??

Perhaps I am misreading this board.

C-discharge defines the maximum discharge rate, or how much amperage you can get from the cell without damaging it.

C-charge defines the maximum charge rate, or how much amperage you can put in without damaging it.

If you exceed either, you are probably going to damage the cell.

(Leaving off some of the nuance, like changing charge rates as cells near full recharge, etc.)

Am I off in the weeds?

Thanks,
Jim.
 
What is off in the weeds are the numbers you get when you test cells.

Depending on the maker it's like car amp watts. The number on that made in China car amp may be way off what it will really do.

Same with HK lipo. It might show up at your house brand new with little or no C's at all ! :)
 
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