How to learn Solidworks?/3D printer recommendations?
- Thread starter RomeoEG
- Start date
I have no experience with Makerbot but I have built several printers and owned a Solidoodle 4 and now the FlashForge Dreamer. For me a 3d printer is a tool to support my hobbies and not a hobby in and of itself. I got sick of constantly having to mess with and tweak my home built printers in order to get a good result. The Solidoodle 4 was pure crap, my first Medel printer that I had for 5 years could produce a better result and in less time. After reading about the Flashforge Dreamer I decided to give it a try. It prints quality without a bunch of hassle tweaking it all the time. I only have about 100 hours on it but so far I'm very happy with it. FlashForge also has very good support, Tang the support person is always available and will get on Skype and help answer any questions you might have.
The problems I have wit the Flashforge Dreamer are the print client is closed source and the filament spools goes inside the printer so you have to buy the correct sized spools, 180mm diameter x 55wide.
The problems I have wit the Flashforge Dreamer are the print client is closed source and the filament spools goes inside the printer so you have to buy the correct sized spools, 180mm diameter x 55wide.
torqueboards
1 MW
@superpef - I have one of the original flash forge printers - Dual Extruder Flash Forge Creator. I had a rep rap build before it and it was a lot more issues and a ton of DIY which wasn't necessary. They were pretty much the same price and just like voodoo I have the same exact issue. I didn't want to build my own 3d printer but print to support other hobbies.
It worked perfectly straight out of the box (minimal setup) probably for about 300-400 hours. Afterwards just like anything else some of the parts get damaged and old. You'll have to maintain it and replace parts. Definitely, goes for anything though.
It worked perfectly straight out of the box (minimal setup) probably for about 300-400 hours. Afterwards just like anything else some of the parts get damaged and old. You'll have to maintain it and replace parts. Definitely, goes for anything though.
brent
1 W
I've been using one of the original dual extruder Makerbot Replicators a lot (owned by my school's science department-- currently in my living room, heh); in terms of reliability, it's about the same as my Prusa... but, when my Prusa breaks down, it's always been because I've done something completely stupid (ie short the 5v line on a stepper driver to the 12v one...), whereas the cause of the Makerbot breaking down has been a mixture of me doing stupid things and design flaws, most notably the annoying delrin plunger they use in the extruder.
The Makerbot seems more rigid but print quality's about the same -- only ended up spending $285 on my Prusa with a coupon code, though, whereas the Makerbot sold for something like $2k....
ToyBuilder Labs has refurbished dual-extruder Flashforge Creators for $850, by the way:
http://toybuilderlabs.com/everything-else/refurbished-flash-forge-creator
The Makerbot seems more rigid but print quality's about the same -- only ended up spending $285 on my Prusa with a coupon code, though, whereas the Makerbot sold for something like $2k....
ToyBuilder Labs has refurbished dual-extruder Flashforge Creators for $850, by the way:
http://toybuilderlabs.com/everything-else/refurbished-flash-forge-creator
CAD: Sketchup is very intuitive but doesn't support STL files without the paid version or a workaround. Instead I would use tinkercad or try to obtain an educational licence for Inventor or Solidworks. I use inventor and Blender.
Slicer: You need software that will evaluate your STL file and create GCODE for your printer. Some popular options are Slic3r, Cura, Kisslicer, Makerware(flashforge or makerbot) and Simplify3d. The community tends to push people towards Slic3r because it is opensource, but it's pretty buggy compared to other options. I currently use Simplify3d and occasionally Kisslicer.
Printer: Unless you have someone nearby that can help you with a reprap style, Buy a proven turnkey/prebuilt printer (not a preassembled kit). People in the Reprap scene love their opensource printers and software, and tend to downplay the disadvantages. You need a heated bed if you want to print with anything other than PLA. Dual extruders are good for printing disolvable supports, not just different colors. If I had to do it over again I'd definitely get a Flashforge Creator X or Dreamer.
Slicer: You need software that will evaluate your STL file and create GCODE for your printer. Some popular options are Slic3r, Cura, Kisslicer, Makerware(flashforge or makerbot) and Simplify3d. The community tends to push people towards Slic3r because it is opensource, but it's pretty buggy compared to other options. I currently use Simplify3d and occasionally Kisslicer.
Printer: Unless you have someone nearby that can help you with a reprap style, Buy a proven turnkey/prebuilt printer (not a preassembled kit). People in the Reprap scene love their opensource printers and software, and tend to downplay the disadvantages. You need a heated bed if you want to print with anything other than PLA. Dual extruders are good for printing disolvable supports, not just different colors. If I had to do it over again I'd definitely get a Flashforge Creator X or Dreamer.
Okay so I have a question for you guys that have owned a couple of printers…
Which printer would you get for UNDER $1000
I'm still thinking the RididBot https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1650950769/rigidbot-3d-printer looks like the most appealing option under $1000 with the print surface being expandable to any size, available for $500-$700. Don't think the bed is heated though (and I want to print PLA and ABS) and I don't think it has dual extruders..
Which printer would you get for UNDER $1000
I'm still thinking the RididBot https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1650950769/rigidbot-3d-printer looks like the most appealing option under $1000 with the print surface being expandable to any size, available for $500-$700. Don't think the bed is heated though (and I want to print PLA and ABS) and I don't think it has dual extruders..
Dauntless
100 TW
So to sum up:
To learn Solidworks, you must obsess over 3D printers.
To learn Solidworks, you must obsess over 3D printers.
The Rigidbot marketing looks enticing but take a look at the comments in their kickstarter:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1650950769/rigidbot-3d-printer/comments
Under $1000... probably XYZ Da Vinci or Printrbot. You can also get a rebadged flashforge creator X for $1000 at microcenter.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1650950769/rigidbot-3d-printer/comments
Under $1000... probably XYZ Da Vinci or Printrbot. You can also get a rebadged flashforge creator X for $1000 at microcenter.
This is a pretty decent low-cost printer https://www.phoenix3dprinter.com/ A buddy of mine has one and it does a good job printing PLA.
torqueboards
1 MW
If you end up going all out on a printer. I'd consider one that can print in Nylon as well. That would get you some real sturdy parts. ABS I use pretty much all the time. I don't print in PLA.
Whatever you buy, I would avoid Seemecnc. I bought two of their printers and they both really suck. It took three months to send out the kits and when I got them there were no instructions. Plenty of people, including me, contacted them and they replied that they were working hard on making the manual. They finally uploaded an assembly manual 1.5 years later and by that time there were many other more reliable printers on the market. The hot end they use clogs up all the time and I had to replace it with a JHead.
bowlofsalad
100 kW
It was mentioned that some 3d printers don't seem to include a heated bed. http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/category.php?id_category=19 I found these while looking for extrudes (the part that heads up and ejects the filament), they also extruders to sell those as well. If you someone is considering making a 3d printer or buying one that doesn't have a heated bed, this part seems close to essential either way.
